A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
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Table of contents
- 1. Ethan Allen Park - Tower Wall 9 in Cliff
- 2. Index by grade
1. Ethan Allen Park - Tower Wall 9 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
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Alle Top Roping
Lat / Long: 44.506509, -73.240321
Beschreibung
Situated in Ethan Allen Park beneath the Tower a large cliff face and lower cliff area by the entrance are set up with 6 sets of toprope bolt anchors providing 9 new routes ranging from 5.7 to 5.11+, with a few unclimbed new projects. All routes are easily accessible from the trail behind the Tower leading to a small trail along the edge of the cliff.
Zustieg
From Burlington, on bike take the bikepath to Leddy Park and cut through the connector to North Avenue going North, turn right into the park on Ethan Allen Ave.
From Burlington, by car, take the 127 North to the first exit, turn right off the exit onto North Ave going North, taking the right at the light into the Park on Ethan Allen Ave.
Park and take the trail to the Tower and behind it are 4 sets of route anchors. If looking for the lower cliff area then take the jogging trail next to the playground into the woods and the first set of cliffs you come to have 2 sets of anchors on the top of the cliff lines.
The routes are no taller than 70' so a single 50m rope will be able to handle all the climbs there. The page here is adding route heights on their own for some reason even after I entered the correct height in each, so take note that the lower walls are shorter and the main Tower wall in the photo is the largest.
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
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1 |
★★★ Fake Emergency
The furthest left side of the Tower wall has a new project that follows the chunky blocks up to a diagonal line to the anchors. A crimpy sidepull up through the crack is the crux. | 5.11+ | 230ft | |||||
2 |
★★★ EvanEssence
The center of the Tower wall has a more defined crack running diagonal across the face and breaking back through a gap in the top of the cliff to the anchors. The start to the climb goes up through a blocky and reachy set of easier crimps, and then into the crack for a massive layback to the finish. Erstbegehung: Evan Whitaker & JAMES SIMPSON | 5.10c | 200ft | |||||
3 |
Tower of Power
The Tower wall has a roof that is the most obvious feature on the cliff. Take the diagonal crack to the end and traverse onto the face, climb to the roof, and undercling left to get to a wider gap in the crack. Thin holds on the face above the roof. Crux moves are getting across under the roof and finding the right point to climb over. Erstbegehung: JAMES SIMPSON | 5.10d | 200ft | |||||
4 |
Tree Beard
To the right of the Tower wall is a slab that has some nice routes that are meant to be good warm ups. The bolts at the top provide for an easy rappel from the top as well and serve for two routes on the wall. Tree Beard and Proper Hygiene | 5.7 | 200ft | |||||
5 |
Proper Hygiene
The Tower wall has a slab to the right of the main wall with two routes from the same toprope anchors. The right side of this slab holds some more technical bouldery starts and has a more difficult start comparable to a hard 5.9, which is slightly overhanging. This rounds out onto more easier 5.7 moves to the anchors after 20 feet. | 5.9 | 200ft | |||||
6 |
Zig Zag
Part of the lower cliff area, the first cliff you come to on the jogging trail is the area to look for. The large blocks of boulders along the cliff line form a set of Zig Zags along parallel cracks to a topout finish. A consistent 5.9+ on a toprope. | 5.9 | 98ft | |||||
7 |
Breakfast of Champions
The first cliff along the jogging trail has a Zig Zig Crack, on the left side of the cliff. The corner of that boulder has the climb that follows up the right face, using the corner and sidepulls on the face. The crux is getting over the two blocky roofs and the finish is using thin vertical and diagonal cracks across the face to the top. | 5.11b | 98ft | |||||
8 |
★★★ Balls Out
The first cliff you get to on the jogging trail on the corner edge of the face has the climb. Look for the roof situated over the face with a large tree at the bottom near the belay. The blocky start is technical and reachy but easy to the roof, when you take to edging and crimping out onto the face to the top, Razor thin edges for crimps are the crux at the very top. Toprope Anchors are accessed by the short trail at the corner of the cliff. Erstbegehung: JAMES SIMPSON | 5.11d | 160ft | |||||
9 |
★★★ No Balls
The first cliff you come to on the jogging trail has the climb, and there is a large tree at the base where the belay sits. This shares the same anchors and face climb as Balls Out up blocky technical moves to the roof, but takes out the roof to the right using some aerial moves. Undercling the roof behind the block with your right hand and reach back over your head to the hold on the face, walk your feet up as high as comfortable, and dyno to the right to a massive jug. Heel hook and mantle finish. Erstbegehung: JAMES SIMPSON & Evan Whitaker | 5.9 | 160ft |
2. Index by grade
Grade | Stars | Name | Style | Pop | |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
5.7 | Tree Beard | 200ft | |||
5.9 | ★★★ | No Balls | 160ft | ||
Proper Hygiene | 200ft | ||||
Zig Zag | 98ft | ||||
5.10c | ★★★ | EvanEssence | 200ft | ||
5.10d | Tower of Power | 200ft | |||
5.11b | Breakfast of Champions | 98ft | |||
5.11d | ★★★ | Balls Out | 160ft | ||
5.11+ | ★★★ | Fake Emergency | 230ft |