Routen in World für ausgewählte Schwierigkeit

Wonderful climbing up the right side of the Dunes Buttress, with virtually every pitch offering something of interest.

1. 35m (10) Up surprisingly tricky left facing flake/corner (consider starting up Dunes instead if this might give you grief). Continue up slabs above and belay below chimney around the corner.

2. 40m (9) Easily up chimney. Step across the void from top of chimney onto the face proper and continue up to large ledge (the Oasis).

3. 15m (1) Crawl R through hole, belay beneath chockstone in chimney on the other side.

4. 40m (9) Pull up onto the chockstone with difficulty. Follow the deep crackline above to the top (or for a slightly easier finish trend a bit left for the last bit).

Named after the key that has "two sharp pitches". It is possible to escape from the first belay through the narrow cleft to the left between Piccolo Pipe and D Major Pipe.

Start below the major line capped by a huge chockstone on the right wall of the D Major pipe.

1. 25m (10) Bridge up slick groove splitting bottom half of the buttress and under the boulder. It's a good idea to belay on top of the boulder.

2. 25m (10) From top of the boulder climb steep juggy buttress to chimney finish. An alternative to this pitch is to climb the chimney to the left. This is very narrow.

The first three pitches in particular offer superb climbing at the grade, while the final pitches provide an opportunity to explore those high balconies dominating the upper reaches of the cliff. The first two pitches are often combined.

While the first part of the climb only spends a small amount of time in the chimney, some parties have mistakenly climbed the chimney in its entirety. This is not a club that you should aspire to join.

Despite its enjoyable nature, there have been a number of serious injuries and a death on this climb. Here the start of the fourth pitch has been revised to reduce the danger of a long fall to the belay ledge.

1. 20m (10) Up chimney past a thrutchy section and belay out on the left arete. Many parties climb the rib left of the chimney instead (as per P1 of Monkey Poo), this is harder and less-well protected.

2. 20m (10) Climb wall past interesting move at 5 metres and continue to ledge on left. Some parties run the first two pitches together.

3. 35m (10) Delicately up smooth, sustained wall (there's a corner on the left and an unappetising chimney on the right). Make sure to place protection low down here as more than one good climber has smashed their ankles on the ledge after an unexpected slip. Continue up to ledge on right (old peg runner). Up arete to eventually meet chimney. Cross chimney and up 4 metres to big ledge.

4. 38m (8) The original start to this pitch, going up diagonally right from the belay was very poorly protected. Traverse 10 metres right along the ledge to a thin crack. Go up to meet the diagonal line then climb diagonally right just below the junction of grey and red rock.

5. 12m (9) Traverse right and climb a short, steep wall to a balcony belay.

6. 25m (8) Walk left along balcony and climb up second weakness.

7. 20m (7) Traverse spectacularly left to ledge, then scramble off

Slabby start right of Minimus then the corner-crack to the top.

Originally graded 6 via the ordinary chimney, and not highly rated. Now that the loose bits are gone, the start has been straightened out up the face off the boulder, and a lower-off has been added, this is one of the best easy grade routes in this part of Araps, with a wide variety of climbing.

Start: Start off the top of the big boulder on the ledge.

SSGICs to top-out with 2 bolt belay.

Narrow rib at the L end of the lower cliff. Follow arete and climb L into a large crack and then continue R up the pinnacle to a DRB belay (25m rap into R gully).

Inexplicably given 3 stars in previous guides.

Start 1m R of Consul's arete.

Up the R sloping crack then R up larger crack.

Fantastic climbing. There is a variant start to the left at the painted initial "S" but the way described is better. Start below right-hand line up the sombre cleft, right of the initial "S".

1. 35m (11) Veer up left and climb orange corners, then left and up to tiny ledge. Step left then up steep, right-facing box-corner.

2. 8m (5) Either rap off (28 metres) or walk left along ledge and go up.

Another great outing up the front of the Pharos. Start 9 metres right of Hurricane Lamp Cracks at the foot of a deep crack.

1. 28m (6) Climb the buttress on the left to a good belay ledge.

2. 22m (10) Traverse 5 metres right, stepping across a wide crack, then follow the steep, clean line on the right to another good ledge.

3. 25m (10) Step left and climb the front of the buttress to gain the deep V-line on the left. Pass the spectacular roof on the left and up to the Tennis Court.

4. 43m (8) From the top of pedestal climb tricky weakness left of red overhang. Up to subsidiary summit, step across gap, then up to summit. This is as for the last 2 pitches of Spiral Staircase and may be split as for that climb.

Short but good. An interesting chimney and jamming problem featuring great protection throughout. A tricky move to exit adds spice to life!

Start: Start at the right edge of the Pinnacle face below right-leaning flake/crack, about 10 metres right of 'Siren'.

1. 35m (8) Up to and over crack and up left line in wall to juggy ground. Continue up steep wall just left of arete to incut ledge looking out over 'Left Watchtower Face'.

2. 22m (9) Climb up just left of arete to big ledge (Siren's second belay) and continue to next ledge on left a couple of metres further up.

3. 23m (5) Easy ground to ledge below headwall.

4. 30m (10) Step right, then steeply up on good holds. Up, tending slightly left.

Start 1m L of 'Diagonal'. Marked "SH".

Now retrobolted as an easy beginner's lead. First bolt is easy to reach but high and move near the top is hard for the grade so more a lead for competent climbers learning to lead rather than outright beginners. 3 RBs to DBB.

The groove with snap-o-licious flakes and a tricky finish.

Start: 1m R of 'Working Class Hero'.

Get here early for this one.

Start 2 m R of 'Spooge In A Glove'. Climbs the L trending ramp to anchors (shared with 'Spooge In A Glove'). 3 RBs.

Start: Wall to the right of OE.

1. 9m (-) Wall to ledge and triple bolt belay

2. 40m (10) Left up wall, slight recess and nose to tree belay.

Start as for C.

1. 20m (11) Up C for 20m to the shelf.

2. 22m (11) R then through tricky overhang and onwards.

1. 30m (10) Start up the slab, some of the protection is poor. Belay from a vertical crack with foliage and dead tree. Good stance behind the tree.

2. 40m (9) Keep going up, climb a small overlap and head up to the large vertical crack. Belay from below the large overlap.

3. 20m (10) From the belay pull up and over the overlap and follow the crack up. Belay options; either from a tree at the start of Traverse of the Gods or head up another 10m to a small ledge with trees.

4. 30m (6) Follow the cracks and to the top.

Another worthwhile easy climb that adds to the range of options for beginner leaders at this crag. 5 bolts to a DBB

A great, easy 135m multipitch route although pro can be pretty sparse on p2&3 and non-existant on p5. A good initiation to what to expect from Tibro multipitches. Can be done in three pitches with 60m rope.

Start: About 50m L of Candy Mountain at big corner/gully, behind a rock apron. Marked 'BO' (very faint).

★★ Black Orpheus 10 - "BO"

1. 30m (7) Very easily up gully on solid jugs and good pro to big ledge and trad belay.

2. 25m (10) Up rocky corner/slab (right of ledge) Then left to mount short wall (crux), onto slab & up this gully (R) with a couple of bushes offering protection to big ledge & bush belay.

   max in ★★ Black Orpheus 10 - Crux of pitch 2

3. 25m (4) Climb up edgy slab in an exposed position with minimal protection until it curves back left & you reach a tree-lined ledge above. Scramble up L to the top of the ledge. Originally, the belay made use of the "Zombie Tree", however it is preferable that modern ascents make use of gear in groove about 5m above to establish a belay and protect this historic but weary flora from further abuse. You can choose to run pitch 2&3 together, beware that you may be out of earshot of your belayer. This pitch requires a cool head: exposed pitch & minimal pro!

4. 32m (10) Run-out start, then bridge up chimney (crux), which is better than it looks (very good gear), at top LH side of chimney, traverse L along the rising ledge and into corner, follow this up right over blocks to top of gully & crack & tree belay.

5. 23m (3) Up very easy blocky slab (no gear) to big tree in Cave 3. (Some choose to run pitch 4&5 together, on a 60m+ rope, be aware you WILL be out of earshot.) Finish up the 'Caves Route', or descend via rap station at mouth of Cave 1. Alternatively, you can climb (on belay) over to the chains on Zeitgeist & abseil down this to get back to the start of the route.

Thin crack with lots of good holds and bomber gear!

A classic climb up a steep, exposed wall and slab on good rock. An excellent intro to climbing at the Warrumbungles. Can be climbed in two pitches.

Scramble up to below the red-brown wall in middle of W Face, between prominent buttress and Abseil Gully (10 m L of Abseil Gully). Start just left of the 'V'

1. 15m To prominent ledge.

2. 35m Up close to corner for 10m and then head diagonally right to belay on Tourist Traverse. Some parties stick to the corner cracks.

3. 30m Step left to avoid small overhang. Up, superb climbing with good pro. Belay on block to avoid severe rope drag.

4. 15m Easy slab.

Short buttress with undercut start

Really good beginner route.

Companion route to Mesa. Start in chimney left of that route and follow the arete. Exit R to rap chain above Mesa.

Good, but bears no similarity to the 'Buffalo' megaclassic!

Start: Start 2-3m R of OB.

1. 12m (10) The line to the ledge.

2. 12m (10) Continue up the line with some brittle rock.

To the right of the arete.

Up Great Pissing Ledges stopping below small roof then step right into 'Hope'.

Pleasant climbing up good rock.

Start: Back down 5m L from BB amongst trees at fallen log. First climb on LH wall of the 'Slider' gully.

Start 2m R of Blackened Slab. Step up R on ledge then up to big ledge. Left to nose and up to shared lower-off. Set up for a practice belay in the middle off 2 rings.

Links in der Ostwand schrofige Schlucht, oben linksh., zu Sandband (Blockschlinge). Auf diesen 15m nach rechts (Blockschlinge + 4.AÖ). Kamin im Winkel bzw. dessen re. Kaminkante (PORZELLANKANTE) zu Abs. (links NR). Rechts schräge Kamine zu Abs. (1.R des KRIPPENER WEGES). Rechts seichte Rinne hoch, nach wenigen Metern Umstieg in rechte Rinne u. diese zu Verklüftung (rechts auf kl. Pfeiler Nachholöse). In der Kluft zur Schusterplakette u. Kamin absteigen. (Oberhalb des Kamingrunds Stand an Knotenschlingen. Nicht an der dünnwandigen SU!!) Rechts kurzen engen Kamin zum unteren Reitgrat, diesen bis zum zum Ende u. links überdachte Wandstufe zu gr. Abs. (Schlinge). Dahinter zu Kamin und linksgeneigte Rippe (oberer Reitgrat) z.G.

Ausführliche Wegbeschreibung. Topo.

A slightly bold first pitch and an exhilirating finish.

Start: The face just left of the 'Tiptoe Ridge' buttress is marked by the deep chasm of 'The Slot'. Start directly below this chasm.

1. 40m (9) Go up to bushes at 5 metres, step left and climb face just left of the gulch, delicate at first, until it eases to a good ledge.

2. 30m (5) Easy ground to below the orange overhangs.

3. 25m (10) Up to and under the overhang and traverse out left. Climb the overhang on large holds in an exposed position.

A classic of the chimney style and a must do if you're into that sort of thing. The dark chimney to the left of DWHP. A challenging lead for the novice climber. Despite reputation the climb offers good placements the whole way. Make sure to extend gear below large block (crux) at half height followed by a run out section if you don't have a #6 cam or big bro. 30 meters to top out.

Start below the large thin flake. (It feels really solid, but I wouldn't put pro under it, it is large and thin.) Follow the obvious large crack to 2 bolts for anchors.

Takes protection really easily -- a good route for a first trad lead.

Up the middle of the gently angled slab.

3 RB's to DBB.

As for Climb A, but take a committing step out right into the next crack and then climb up.

Start beneath the massive corner blasting up the start of the highest part of the wall.

Bivy options: There are a few decent spots around the base. Big Grassy (which is not flat by any means) and the small flattish ledge 8m below are the most luxurious bivvy options on the route. The fixed hangers at the end of pitch 6 and The Gledhill Bivvy at the end of pitch 8 offer waterproof spots for a portaledge. Gledhill and Big Grassy also have hammock anchors.

1. 25m (M2) Slime Corner. Two bolts off the deck (Deck potential, often stick-clipped) to L-trending slab with slime-filled corner (might have to dig out some placements!) then up the crack. To DBB on a flake. It's possible to link 1 and 2.

2. 35m (M4) Big Corner part 1. Sustained aiding on thin pin scars up the corner to a hanging belay on the R wall. If you're struggling, imagine freeing it!

3. 40m (M4) Big Corner part 2. More pin scars up the same corner, using a mixture of thin and fixed gear. Swing left to small tree and ledge to trad belay in corner on the left. Typically linked with pitch 4 (better for hauling) by back-cleaning most of pitch 4, otherwise rope drag will be ludicrous.

4. 8m (10) Corner hand crack and tricky flop onto Big Grassy. Alternatively, finish pitch 3 at the belay at the end of pitch 2 of free version (ledge off to the R with DBB), then take the fourth pitch all the way to Big Grassy.

5. 35m (M3) More thin gear up the corner above Big Grassy. Take the left corner line after the roof at 25m to hanging DBB for the "Ozymandias Variant M2"/"Ozymandias direct(free version) or the less popular right line which is part of the original Ozymandias Direct line.

6. -Option A 30m (M2) "Ozymandias Variant M2"/"Ozymandias direct(free version)" Up the beautiful corner (finger crack layback goes free at 22), at double carrots head right past two fixed hangers to a hanging triple bolt belay on the arete under the Great Roof. Option B. 25m (M4) Ozymandias Direct - follow corner on RPs, wires, tie offs to hanging triple bolt belay. Unpopular and vegetated.

7. 37m (M4) The Roof. New and old carrots lead to the roof and then up the pretty orange corner, which gets thinner as you go up. Hanging belay. (the Gledhill Bivvy).

8. 30m (M3) The Fang. Head R on decaying carrots then up steep crack past the Fang and beyond. Lots of steep awkward caving up to a final hand and fist crack. Take the big gear (up to #5) and watch out for the sharp edge at the start.

9. 40m (10 M2) Continue up crack to an ugly carrot and a slab move leading right to the base of an easy chimney (optional DBB) make sure to move the haul line left of the trees before entering the chimney. Then head up to big terrace with plaque. DBB is way around left.

10. 15m (M3) Steep offwidth (BD C4 #4 and #5s) with an initial seam on the left wall and a few dodgy carrots higher up. Finish on lookout.

HB

Take the easiest way up the face. Start on the southwest face of the pinnacle (which faces into Central Gully). Short corner then (crux) traverse 4-5m L (nasty pendulum potential for the seconder), to gain the nice easy crack to the summit. There's also a more direct start about 6m further L which is a little harder and not as well protected, but with much reduced pendulum potential.

Start at 'Spidermonkey'.

Nice beginner trad lead with good pro following the crack just R of 'Spidermonkey'. Finish at the 'Spidermonkey' DBB. Named after KP's well-known mascot - Proude's dog, Tash. (T.A.S.H)

Start 3m left of Tullah's Tease and up the bouldery start. Straight up through the middle of the orange face on ripper incut jugs. Stay in the middle of the face the whole way up. Protection is great all the way.

Line of carrots above the "test" lower-offs

An adventure. There are at least 3 ways of getting past the cave. The way I consider best is used in the description and the alternatives are at the end.

Start: Start at the base of diagonal ramp that 'Sluice' and other routes scramble up. For this route, it is probably easier to belay from the ground than to set up a belay at the top of the ramp.

1. 35m (10) Follow the ramp then up the corner that is the continuation of the ramp until able to move R to belay in the large cave.

2. 25m (10) Move out the next hole along from the one you entered by (feels ridiculously exposed) climb the pillar on the L (facing the cliff), with poor protection at first (crux). Continue up buttress to a ledge. Rope drag and communication can be difficulties. (Variants 2a. (10) Instead of traversing R into the cave, continue up the corner and move back R above the cave. Move R-wards to rejoin the route. 2b. Move back out of the hole that the cave was entered from and climb the rib to the R (facing the cliff).)

3. 35m (-) Up a series of walls to another large cave which these days is increasingly frequented by boulderers (Ground Control Caves) so you might feel a bit over-dressed with a rope on!

4. 20m (-) Either traverse L for 10m to rappel anchors or continue to top.

Start at 'By Ignorance'.

Not really a traverse but an easy L-tending scramble up to the 'Bufo Marinus' anchors. Often soloed to set up a top rope on 'Bufo Marinus'.

The easy slab left of 'Milawa'. Original grade 10 start comes in from the left. Alternatively, there is a direct start at the tip of the nose, or a right hand variant start at the beginning of the gully, both of which are grade 14. Double RB belay.

Lovely short crack on the left side of the 'Hurts' Wall.

Rechts in der Südseite auf Absatz, dann rechts der Rippe folgen. An derem Ende über Reibungswand zum Gipfelaufbau.

Up the right crack (the occasional summer residence of Bill Begg's pet tiger snake) to join 'Smooth Dancer'.

Start 2 m right. Up blocks to a good stance. Mantle the ledge on the right and scramble out. Now fully bolted with practice anchors halfway.

Start: As for Pockets Of Fun. Up to big ledge, then climb a bit Right and up to first FH a few metres up. Then up on good pockets to chains, passing another 2 FHs.

Up the insanely knobby rib 2m left of Salad Days

On the left side of the front of the boulder facing the main crag.

Mantle, then up. No pro.

Start at a large lone boulder and follow the left crack all the way to the top.

A nice little crack to start with a bold run out to finish.

A brilliant first lead or easy solo. A popular way to get reception.

Nice and easy beginner´s slab

#beginners

Left side of the gully coming down.

Start about 50m uphill from John's Pinnacle, under the obvious cleft in the south face of the Bluffs which divides Bluff Major and Bluff Minor. Up 4m juggy wall, go R underneath roof for 5m, then thrash up the obvious slot. Exit to the north onto Blockbuster Ledge.

Start: 0.5m left of GT, Seam (wires)and thread

A climbing route that follows Ali's, then goes up to the top of Bard Buttress. Not great rock but a great position. Start 10m left of Ali's.

1. 55m 8. Ramble up the slab for ~20m (minimal pro). Clip a bolt on Ali's, and cross to the R, over a small lip, onto a ledge at the base of ridgeline going up Bard Buttress.

2. 25m 10. Traverse R onto the arete/ridgeline, and follow the ridge to the top.

A harmadik nitt alatt kevesebb mint fél méterrel kicsit jobbra van egy köztes stand, lehet két rövid kötélhosszként is mászni akár.

There is an anchor half meter below the third bolt a bit right, so this could be climbed as two short pitches.

Start on boulder 3m R of Belly Bulge, step on to lip of roof and up slab.

Low angle slab with retro'd carrots - original had none. FHs on top ledge to belay from. Run-out but easy - not really an R rated route.

Up face just right of crack tending right to shared anchors, juggy climbing on good rock

The obvious crack 6mt left of the gully at the right hand end of the cliff. Follow the crack to half way, then step left and follow the crack to the V-corner to finish.

Marked 'AT'. Pillar to sinuous thin crack, then past vegetation to steep juggy top.

Near the middle of the cliff there is a detached pinnacle (about the only clear pinnacle on the cliff); this climbs the south (right) ramp of the pinnacle to the top, then steps across onto the main face and up to the top.

Start at the corner of the ramp up to the pinnacle from the south, and generally follows the arete.

1. 40m (5.4) Climb the arete and slab to a large ledge with a bolted anchor.

2. 30m (5.4) Climb the arete to a ledge below a smooth slab, move left onto the face and up some steeper moves to rejoin the arete, then continue up the arete to the pinnacle. Belay to avoid rope drag or enjoy the pinnacle.

3. 10m (5.4) Step across to the main face, and climb to the top, looking left for a two-bolt anchor.

("Pinical" was in the database -- but there was no matching route. I am guessing this refers to the classic "Front of the Pinnacle", rather than "Back of the Pinnacle". Renamed to preserve assents, rather than delete & recreate.)

Climb the very obvious and large crack on the left side of the wall. Anchor is the same as The Mechanic.

Up the dyke and knobbly knobs. A great climb to hone your chicken head slinging technique.

Marked 'ML'. Up the crack, over the small bulge and up to top.

Bouldery start followed by a quick scramble to the corner crack. Up crack to top of block then crack to tree.

Powerful mantle on a low jug, trivial ramp after.

The corner to the right of Odeum.

An easy route, but new leaders might be disappointed with the pro for the first half.

Use the bolt at the top to re-direct your rope away from the trunk of the cedar.

Lovely climbing up the pockety groove in the middle of the wall opposite Witch and 3m R of Sze.The actual cruz moves are a wee bit bold if you are pushing the grade.

Start in the corner at the left edge of the smooth slab. Climb the corner for 12 metres to the top of the block. Up just left of orange overhangs to finish.

Follow massive jugs on right end of wall. Finish by trending right to new DRBB lower-offs in black runnel, or for a bit of spice straight up via enormous horn runner and over lip to tree belay.

Follow the cliff line past 'Black Hole' for about 80m. Start at the black tree half a metre back from the cliff. Marked "SD".

Follow the line of 5 BRs trending L (more so after the 4th BR) to the 'Synchronous Orbit' DBB.

Gestufte SO-Kante gerade hoch bis zur Umlenkung.

South-eastern arête straight to the top.

Easy pleasure climbing on always good holds.

This is a training wall for Lead Climbers to practice clipping and re-threading. There are also 2 bolts at ground level to practice re-threading, just to the right.

5 m links von "Alter Weg" linksgeneigeten Handriss und Rippe zum Absatz von "Alter Weg". Diesen zG.