Ascents in Blackwall having Beta

So sharp so hard but so good! Got it in sections, guess I’ll need visit the central coast again

The climbing up to the last move is excellent and also varied… slopers, crimps, and small feet. The final dyno to crimp is a bastard though.

The start is very spicy (and sharp) for the grade, but the rest is a walk, so I guess it’s close enough. Not that fun though…

Certainly gets you warmed up, but doesn’t get a great deal of traffic and it’s dirty AF

Got it in two sections. Bit of trouble in the middle transitioning weight.

Feels easier to just get through the committing 2nd half as quick as possible.

First run on top-rope to remember the beta

Bloody hard start for a 19, but with the awesome rest in the hueco, the rest goes fine. Good climbing.

Another good working session. Changed beta at the top and stuck 1 time the huge dead point/dyno and found some micro foot beta.

Unlocked some sick Beta at the top on a brutal crimp proper hard finish but great climb and will come back

Really good up until second bolt but no idea after then.

Proper polished holds on this and tough moves. Wasp nest on second last bolt so bailed.

Surely this isn't 23. Good warm up.

Felt bloody hard in the humidity

Not sure what makes this 23, but maybe height helps?

Absolute nails start and doest really get into easier. Felt a bit lost on this.

Fun route nothing too cruxy with decent rests if needed.

Rpt.

You definitely can’t finish out left. The anchors are straight up on a large block in front of the dead tree. The final move is the longest. Very height dependent and no chance of holding the dyno sloper for my height even with toe hooks in the heat today.

Rpt, another bouldery number, probably my favourite route, had to brush sand out of all the incuts

This always makes me laugh for a 19, like many of that grade here, but it’s a nice climb.

Bailed left like the description says, definitely not 25 this way but a nice climb still!

Dropped the first move off the ground then pulled on again and climbed it clean to the top. Pretty dirty in the crack and as you get towards the top, well worth it despite that!

Nice route, crux looked to be hanging the draws, thanks Freya!

Dropped the onsight slapping nothingness over the top, as close as you can get I guess. Figured out the final dyno after a few tries. Not sure if it's meant to top out via the sketchy block and mud pile or traverse left to the nice anchors??

Easy bail out left for 23. Did not get 25 move

Many tires on start. On-site rest

Magic afternoon sitting atop the cliff after this

Rpt

Rpt, but managed to use the crack this time as it was dry. Traversed left to the anchors on the arete to save rapping off.

Great offwidth and a lot of fun. Used a 5 & 6 sized cam and kept bumping up. Note: have changed style to Trad. Yes there are ring anchors to clean, but the carrots to the right are for the 23. Not a Sport route.

Struggled a bit on this. Feet seem to run out as you move across the traverse.

A bit tricky getting to the last bolt then desperate finish.

Covered in moss, so more careful than usual for the grade considering there’s only room for one cam halfway up.

Sketchy finish, but excellent protection below. No anchors, so rapped off tree 6m back.

Pretty easy to the middle until you get to the tough slopes then a wild dyno finish off a half decent sloper. Would be scary to commit on lead. Could be a classic with this type of finish.

Few different styles thrown in makes this a really interesting and fun climb.

The spiders on my body:successful ascent ratio finished at 0.6

Pumpy

Complete misread at the very start stopped the onsight pretty quick. Cruisy second time round. Spider to ascent ratio still at 1

The spiders on my body:ascent ratio maintained a nice round 1:1 on this climb

I would describe this route as a juggy overhang followed by a mad mantle.