Blackwall, Rock climbing

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Map

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1 Bogas Cave 2 Kit Kat Wall 3 Red Head Wall 4 Offspring Wall 5 Underworld 6 Pinochio and friends

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Summary

Sandstone

This is a pleasant small South facing summer crag with a few moderately graded classic sporty routes with the bonus of a glorious view over Broken Bay.

Access issues inherited from New South Wales and ACT

If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/

Approach

Park at the end of Mullbong Road, Orange Grove, and take the well-defined walking track (the old billycart track as known when we were kids) on the left just past the last house, not the gated track! Walk uphill for about 200 metres where you will pass a large boulder in the middle of the track. Continue up, veering L up a steep track to a blocky outcrop of sandstone. From the platform you reach you can access the top of the cliff to the right or descend the tight squeeze to the cliff’s base. Follow the base of the cliff for access to Kit Kit wall, Red Head wall, Offspring wall, and Underworld. Underworld is 70m further L of Offspring Wall. It is an marked by a collapsed roof after-which is a great little 5mt long horizontal bouldering roof. If you ferret around there is another mini area on the lower tier with three mini-sport routes

History

History timeline chart

Most of the routes at this crag were developed in 1996 in a frenzy by Richard Jeffrey. Several large boulders perched above the crag offer some good bouldering which was popularised by Gary Hamilton who developed most of the problems around 2000 - 2001. In 2015 the area has received some newer lines and rebolting to rejuvenate some great little lines on superb rock, albeit a bit damp at times.