Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | Climber | Date | |||
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Blue Mountains Newnes Plateau Gardens of Stone National Park Greater Carne Creek | ||||||||
18 20 | ★ Crack 2 (Double Standard and Vested Interests) - with Macciza a.k.a. Macca | 50m | ★ Good | Sat 19th Jan 2019 | ||||
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Blue Mountains Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd The Dam Cliffs Steep Wall | ||||||||
18 | ★ A Tale of Two Cities | 12m, 7 | ★ Good | Tue 3rd Jan 2023 | ||||
Blue Mountains Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd The Dam Cliffs Mossy Wall | ||||||||
10 | ★ Hesitation | 15m | ★ Good | Mon 7th Oct 2013 | ||||
10 | ★ Hesitation - with Michael | 15m | Sat 16th Mar 2024 | |||||
cheeky simul climb with micro traxx
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12 | ★ Jug City | 15m, 3 | ★★★ Classic | Mon 7th Oct 2013 | ||||
Excellent rock, and would be perfect for new leaders with plenty of grip around the bolts.
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12 | ★ Jug City | 15m, 3 | ★ Good | Sat 2nd Jan 2016 | ||||
Blue Mountains Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd The Dam Cliffs Aerobar Wall | ||||||||
12 ~10 | Scrub-a-dub | 8m | Fri 13th Jan 2023 | |||||
Very easy climbing. Not quite as dirty as route beside it
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12 | ★ Black or Pink | 8m | Fri 13th Jan 2023 | |||||
Very, very dirty... I'll try to get back soon and give it a good clean, because these routes definitely work well for setting up easy top rope for beginners
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Blue Mountains Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd The Dam Cliffs Dam Wall | ||||||||
17 | ★ Corner (in French) | 9m | ★ Good | Wed 3rd Jul 2019 | ||||
Blue Mountains Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Cosmic County Area Cosmic County Lunar Walls | ||||||||
19 | ★ Lunar Crack | 15m | ★ Good | Mon 18th Apr 2022 | ||||
Really interesting mix of finger locks, layback and wall under the veg. Had to dog it.
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Blue Mountains Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Cosmic County Area Cosmic County Memory Lane | ||||||||
15 | ★ Bell Bottom Pants | 25m | Sun 16th May 2021 | |||||
Still not sure why I did this. Bored lunchtime lap?
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Blue Mountains Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Ida Ridge | ||||||||
16 | ★ A Bolt From the Blue | 25m | ★ Good | Sun 19th Jun 2022 | ||||
Went straight up ridged ironstone arete, actually very nice tho only pro down lo.
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13 | Mixed Pleasures of Earthly Delight | 25m | Crap | Sun 19th Jun 2022 | ||||
Gully and corner full of ferns, shrubs and debris. Definitely crud.
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10 | The By-Pass | 20m | Average | Sun 19th Jun 2022 | ||||
Dirty wall and blunt arete, went straight up from bottom with bits at 5-8m then maybe nothing for 20m.
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8 | ★★ Ferney Groove's Revenge | 29m | Don't Bother | Sun 19th Jun 2022 | ||||
Thrutch through the ferns and dirt, but protectable if you really wanted to lead.
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Blue Mountains Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Dalpura Head Dalpura Wall | ||||||||
19 M1 | ★ Welsh Dragon | 88m | Sun 21st Jan 2024 | |||||
Blue Mountains Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Pierces Pass Bunny Bucket Buttress and Hotel California Area | ||||||||
18 | ★★★ Bunny Bucket Buttress | 270m | Thu 30th May 2013 | |||||
Bivied at the base of the climb and rope-soloed out in 9 hours. Should've taken a pulley for my pack... epic views, great traverse on P3 and the headwall is amazing - a mighty jughaul that seems to just go on and on
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Blue Mountains Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Pierces Pass Lunch Ledge | ||||||||
23 | ★★ Burgermeister | 100m | ★★★ Classic | Tue 19th Mar 2013 | ||||
So I've rapped in down the route to do a ropesolo but forgot my mini-traction.. Dam! Luckily I've got my hand-ascender on me so I havent done this before but I know the theory; clip into my loop through the top holes & away I go... I ended up doing it 3 times back to back just for fun
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18 |
★★ The West Face of the Mirrorball (The West Face of the Mirrorball P4)
- with
Ben Sanford
4
18
45
| 45m | ★ Good | Fri 24th May 2019 | ||||
Another strange interaction with this route... Rope retrieval.
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Blue Mountains Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Pierces Pass Walls Lookdown | ||||||||
25 |
★★ Let Freedom Ring
1
21
17m
CLean
2
25
17m
spent half the day trying to work out the moves no luck.
3
22
14m
Clean, a fun pitch
4
25
32m
two sits but feeling really good on it.
5
20
18m
clean
6
25
30m
Did not climb. | 130m | Sun 8th Jan 2023 | |||||
Spent the day and rope soloed the entire line except the last pitch. So much climbing!
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25 | ★★★ I Have a Dream | 50m, 13 | ★★★ Mega Classic | Fri 24th Dec 2021 | ||||
Phwaaaa deserves all the praise it gets! Plenty of great moves in a phenomenal location.
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25 | ★★★ I Have a Dream | 50m, 13 | ★★★ Classic | Wed 15th May 2024 | ||||
First lap on TRS. All moves done. Relentless. Will take quite a few sessions
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25 | ★★★ Disco Non-Stop Party | 40m, 13 | ★★★ Mega Classic | Fri 3rd Sep 2021 | ||||
What a sick route, put it on your list!
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25 | ★★★ Disco Non-Stop Party | 40m, 13 | Sat 27th Nov 2021 | |||||
25 | ★★★ Disco Non-Stop Party - with Johnny Sullivan | 40m, 13 | ★★★ Mega Classic | Fri 18th Feb 2022 | ||||
My first top rope solo! Why not make it memorable by doing it on the most exposed route in the mountains? Absolutely absurd position and unparalleled exposure. Johnny and I were questioning everything we knew about anchor theory while we trembled on the edge of the cliff setting up our gear. Couldn't have had a more bomber setup but it was still terrifying stepping over the edge. Climbing was sustained, surprisingly juggy, but also quite overhung in sections. Was very peaceful once the fear subsided. Met James at the top who was also rope soloing on I have a dream, his first solo at Pierce's, so I think we helped each other's nerves there. All parties had a blast and live another day.
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25 | ★★★ Disco Non-Stop Party - with far more rope faff than was necessary | 40m, 13 | ★★★ Mega Classic | Mon 28th Nov 2022 | ||||
What a mega line! Just one toprope lap to get a feel for the climb and the area. Nothing can ever go completely right, so of course I spent the first 20 min rebelaying and rapping an extra 5m down choss so I could shake a bunch of dead trees to release my stuck rope.
I would say that the climb was a bit cryptic at first in some places, but that's probably more of a personal experience for me as someone who's shit at arete climbing. It was very very fun though, and kept pulling my attention to my feet and body position all through the arete. All I need to do now is drag someone else in to climb it with me |
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23 | ★★ Debris — 2 attempts | 51m, 13 | ★★★ Classic | Wed 13th Dec 2023 | ||||
Been wanting to try this for 2 years but failed to find another enthusiast. Finally, learnt how to use top rope solo. 2 laps. Tried to do it clean on the second lap but got too pumped. Despite the rock is mostly average the location, exposure, type of climbing and steepness make it an excellent experience
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23 | ★★ Debris | 51m, 13 | ★★★ Classic | Tue 2nd Jan 2024 | ||||
1 lap on TRS. Broke one hold and fell. Otherwise, clean. I skipped the most fragile 4-5 metres of the route by climbing the face on the right. A bit harder but totally doable
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23 | ★★ Debris | 51m, 13 | ★★★ Classic | Wed 15th May 2024 | ||||
Finally clean lap on TRS. Avoided all the choss by climbing on the right side of the arete. Time to lead. 40’30”
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Blue Mountains Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Pierces Pass Rigby Hill | ||||||||
18 | ★★★ Born to be Mild | 23m | ★ Good | Sun 16th Jan 2022 | ||||
Blue Mountains Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Pierces Pass Pierces Pass East Side | ||||||||
25 | ★★★ Grasshopper | 40m | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 16th Jan 2022 | ||||
Rapped in to suss out moves and gear. Great line, technical faceclimbing, pretty much all in the feet if you know how to use them. microcams 00&0,1 were handy to protect thin cruxes
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Blue Mountains Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Odin Head | ||||||||
19 | ★★ El Dorado | 35m | ★★ Very Good | Sat 17th Jun 2023 | ||||
Blue Mountains Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Ikara Head | ||||||||
22 | ★★★ Aladinsane | 32m | ★★★ Mega Classic | Mon 8th May 2023 | ||||
Blue Mountains Mount Victoria Area Hartley Hartley Vale Road | ||||||||
25 | ★★ Orange Slice | 15m | ★★ Very Good | Wed 14th Aug 2019 | ||||
Start and end are both bloody hard! Unless I'm missing something, the last move is just as hard as the start.
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25 | ★★ Orange Slice | 15m | ★★ Very Good | Wed 14th Aug 2019 | ||||
25 | ★★ Orange Slice | 15m | ★★ Very Good | Mon 8th Jun 2020 | ||||
Quite nice with a bit of a heart breaker OS finish. Pretty cruisy for the grade. Bag nicked, 'cause I'm an idiot.
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23 | ★ The Rainbow Three | 15m | Average | Sun 17th May 2020 | ||||
Punchy crux. Minor gardening. 3 laps.
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21 | ★★ Something with Spiders | 15m, 6 | Sat 30th Nov 2019 | |||||
just wanted to play with gear, ended up having heaps of fun on this route. (x2)
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21 | ★★ Something with Spiders | 15m, 6 | Sat 30th Nov 2019 | |||||
21 | ★★ Something with Spiders | 15m, 6 | ★ Good | Sun 17th May 2020 | ||||
On from go to woh. Very nice. And clean. 2 laps.
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23 | ★ Goosed | 15m | ★★ Very Good | Tue 13th Aug 2019 | ||||
Very nice! Though I thought I was on SWS. Felt way easier than 23, but then again everything feels "easy" on TR solo...
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23 | ★ Goosed | 15m | ★★ Very Good | Tue 13th Aug 2019 | ||||
23 | ★ Goosed | 15m | ★★ Very Good | Wed 14th Aug 2019 | ||||
Such a nice climb. Deserves more stars! Quite easy for the grade even at 23 (once was graded 24?!)
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23 | ★ Goosed | 15m | ★★ Very Good | Wed 14th Aug 2019 | ||||
23 | ★ Goosed | 15m | Average | Sun 17th May 2020 | ||||
Get someone to clean it. Punchy crux and another nice pull. 3 laps. Probably significantly easier if a bit taller.
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17 | ★ Electrostatic Axila | 15m | Sat 30th Nov 2019 | |||||
Learning to be extra antisocial (x3)
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17 | ★ Electrostatic Axila | 15m | Sat 30th Nov 2019 | |||||
17 | ★ Electrostatic Axila | 15m | Sat 30th Nov 2019 | |||||
17 | ★ Electrostatic Axila | 15m | Average | Sun 17th May 2020 | ||||
Nice enough but dirty. 2 laps.
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Blue Mountains Mount Victoria Area The Noisy Place | ||||||||
14 | ★ The Crunched Dog and the Ducati | 15m | ★ Good | Sun 23rd Jul 2023 | ||||
Differences from the crack 3m right: lower angle, wider, corner, wall holds ... all good reasons for 8 fewer grades
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14 | ★ The Crunched Dog and the Ducati | 15m | ★ Good | Sun 23rd Jul 2023 | ||||
Tried the pure layback and gassed out on last two moves. Blame the next door crack, not Science Friction.
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22 | ★★ Die, Fox, Die | 15m | ★★ Very Good | Sat 16th Jan 2021 | ||||
More perfect ringlocks in 15m than the rest of the blueys, with one all-in there crux move. Taped knuckles, comfy shoes, and 0.5s.
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22 | ★★ Die, Fox, Die | 15m | ★★ Very Good | Sun 23rd Jul 2023 | ||||
Came to train for Frog in a Froq and got thoroughly defrocked. But to paraphrase Bill Clinton's second most famous saying ("I smoked but I did not inhale"), in my defence "I sagged, but I did not haul", despite a dogfest more rancid than yesterday's recycled running thermal, rendered largely unnecessary by significant global warning since the last visit, and the amount of finger-busting calories expended. Even took off a shoe to try an old-school toe jam to no
avail, layed back weirdly off crimps, opposed locks, sagged a zillion times and finally technically crawled over the top. Froq!
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22 | ★★ Die, Fox, Die | 15m | Fri 25th Aug 2023 | |||||
25 | Unbolted 6 | 15m | Average | Mon 4th Oct 2021 | ||||
Ordinary start and finish, perplexing middle. Not a modern 25. Hard DS.
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25 | Simon's Route | 15m, 3 | Average | Wed 22nd Sep 2021 | ||||
Unfortunately you end up in the pod. Only shares one hold at the top and the climbing is good and sustained. The crux is hard and the last bolt is weirdly placed, I'm guessing to keep it away from the crack.
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22 | ★ Endotoxic Shock | 15m, 1 | ★ Good | Wed 22nd Sep 2021 | ||||
Not a sandbag, just proper 22. Not a warm-up though. Boulder start and then very pleasant locks and jams.
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22 | ★ Endotoxic Shock | 15m, 1 | ★ Good | Sun 23rd Jul 2023 | ||||
More froqqing: dogged the lower crux, at least under my own steam, then hardly steamed up the crack. No chance of a frocked-up lead.
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24 | ★★ Doigte le trou | 10m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | Sat 16th Jan 2021 | ||||
Trou amélioré. Trois à deux. Not sure about trying to force the direct start. Quite the technical and pumpy top half. Very well bolted.
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22 24 | ★★ Chilled Puppy Complex | 15m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | Sat 16th Jan 2021 | ||||
21-25 height dependent. 22/23 for most. Multiple cruxes and nice movement. Tricky OS, specific beta takes out a lot of the sting. Stick clip first bolt for a sport route. Very well bolted.
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Blue Mountains Mount Victoria Area Zap Crag Upper Zap | ||||||||
21 | ★ Hot Pump Action Baby | 25m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | Sun 17th Mar 2013 | ||||
yeh its good...easy as to set up a ropesolo but its the only climb you can really do in this fashion at zap without obscene amounts of jiggery pokery
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21 | ★ The Gangs of Mt York | 20m, 6 | Don't Bother | Sun 17th Mar 2013 | ||||
maybe some holds have broken off, because it was nails hard and pretty shit. I still got the flash but its more like 23/24 and worthless either way.. better off doing its neighbour
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Blue Mountains Mount Victoria Area Bardens Lookout Little Triggers Wall | ||||||||
17 | ★ Solvin Puzzle | 15m, 10 | ★ Good | Sat 21st Oct 2023 | ||||
19 | ★★ Quirrell's Quarrell | 25m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | Mon 8th Mar 2021 | ||||
Blue Mountains Mount Victoria Area New York East (Right) Side Upper Tier | ||||||||
19 | ★ Kamikazee Jumbos | 15m | ★★ Very Good | Wed 24th Mar 2021 | ||||
Thought it was a bit stiff for a 16, which in fact it wasn't. Great clean finger crack in hard grey wall with stacks of placements, if you have the time to get them in! Old sling around a chockstone above the crack, which was weird considering there's a tree 1m away, and the topout 2m above.
Also rapped and rope-soloed the lichened finger crack 2m to the right but saw no point cleaning for a somewhat obscure tricky 17 lead with iffy pro. |
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Blue Mountains Mount Victoria Area New York East (Right) Side | ||||||||
6 13 | Ray's Toupee | 10m | Crap | Tue 9th Mar 2021 | ||||
Unfortunately deluged by a minor hail of debris, sand and scree. Brushed away top to reveal second carrot hidden under gravel: definitely not even an old-school trad lead, definitely not 13, and definitely crap.
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13 6 | It's Crap Ray No.2 | 10m, 1 | ★ Good | Tue 9th Mar 2021 | ||||
Think the grades are mixed up, probably more 13 than 6. A fair lead up little corner with wire placements.
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13 | Not So Crap | 10m, 2 | ★ Good | Tue 9th Mar 2021 | ||||
A bit of spice for the grade.
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6 | It's Crap Ray No.1 | 10m, 1 | ★ Good | Tue 9th Mar 2021 | ||||
Not crap at all, just old school.
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15 | Cosmic Gall | 15m, 1 | Average | Wed 24th Mar 2021 | ||||
Hardly the fare that those besieging Hermione and "Quirrell's Quarrell" on the other side of the road are likely to favour. Worse, it transpired to be a minor overflow of the adjacent ephemeral stream currently in spate, with the upper portions obscured by lichen or composted brown loam. Still, the itch must be scratched, even if in my haste to scratch the sticky slippers were left at home.
An old carrot appeared by magic just under the overhang for those tempted to lead, who would otherwise find sufficient places to place their stuff. Somewhat stiff for the grade, environmental handicaps notwithstanding. |
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18 | ★ Tall Dwarfs | 10m, 2 | Average | Sun 11th Apr 2021 | ||||
Nice enough crack and two moves over the overhang, but no point lowering off the crappy giant thin rings 2m later and only another 3 to the top. Far more worthwhile stuff elsewhere.
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15 | Two Carrots Yellow (Unknown 3) | 10m, 2 | Average | Sun 7th Mar 2021 | ||||
Adequate pro above and below the carrots to lead all these. Shame there isn't a "Cleanpoint" tick type: brush-as-you-go.
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15 | Two Carrots Yellow (Unknown 3) | 10m, 2 | Average | Thu 18th Nov 2021 | ||||
15 | Two Carrots Yellow (Unknown 3) | 10m, 2 | Average | Thu 18th Nov 2021 | ||||
A few nice slab moves down low.
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15 | Two Carrots Orange (Unknown 2) | 10m, 2 | Average | Sun 7th Mar 2021 | ||||
Starts below plant. Tricky friction slab start and somewhat sketchy topout under branch.
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15 | Two Carrots Orange (Unknown 2) | 10m, 2 | Average | Thu 18th Nov 2021 | ||||
Scratching the itch
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15 | Two Carrots Orange (Unknown 2) | 10m, 2 | Average | Thu 18th Nov 2021 | ||||
14 | Two Carrots Red (Unknown 1) | 10m, 2 | Average | Sun 7th Mar 2021 | ||||
Tricky friction slab start then interesting heritage Chouinard #3 Hex notch above the 2nd carrot.
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14 | Two Carrots Red (Unknown 1) | 10m, 2 | Average | Sun 7th Mar 2021 | ||||
Retrieving the hex.
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14 | Two Carrots Red (Unknown 1) | 10m, 2 | Average | Thu 18th Nov 2021 | ||||
Wall can be climbed anywhere really, just moved the thin red line 1m right every time.
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14 | Two Carrots Red (Unknown 1) | 10m, 2 | Average | Thu 18th Nov 2021 | ||||
16 | Two Carrots Purple (Unknown 0) | 10m, 2 | ★ Good | Sun 7th Mar 2021 | ||||
A tricky 17 over the rooflet if not using the arete. 5m runout up grade 3 slab to first carrot.
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16 | Two Carrots Purple (Unknown 0) | 10m, 2 | ★ Good | Thu 18th Nov 2021 | ||||
Nice, easier up the arete
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16 | Two Carrots Purple (Unknown 0) | 10m, 2 | ★ Good | Thu 18th Nov 2021 | ||||
Nice, harder up the roof
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Blue Mountains Mount Victoria Area New York West (Left) Side | ||||||||
22 | ★★ #11 | 10m | ★★ Very Good | Tue 30th May 2023 | ||||
Couldn't pull the move between the 1st and 2nd but gonna be a proj for sure. this is my idea of climbing
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Blue Mountains Mount Victoria Area The Soft Parade The Middle | ||||||||
9 | ★ J Meister | 8m, 4 | Sun 10th Jan 2016 | |||||
Roped-solo-yolo (tearing down top rope).
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20 18 | Avian Antics | 8m, 3 | Average | Sun 21st Feb 2016 | ||||
Unfortunately like all these, dirt washes over them. Would be good if longer.
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14 15 | Nice Elvis Legs (Missing route) | 8m, 6 | Average | Sun 21st Feb 2016 | ||||
Tricky start for grade
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12 | ★ A Soft Touch | 8m | Sun 21st Feb 2016 | |||||
10 | ★ Lazy Lizards | 8m | Sun 21st Feb 2016 | |||||
16 | ★ Hysterical Porcupine | 12m | Sun 21st Feb 2016 | |||||
14 | ★ Dirty Nuns with Chewing Gum | 10m | Sun 21st Feb 2016 | |||||
16 | ★ A Touch of Frost | 10m | Don't Bother | Sun 21st Feb 2016 | ||||
Arriving a bit late in the day I thought this might provide shade and some easy to set up rope solos. Nup.
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16 | ★ A Touch of Frost | 10m | Average | Wed 7th Dec 2022 | ||||
It's rough on the finger tips
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Blue Mountains Mount Victoria Area The Soft Parade The Right Hand End | ||||||||
15 | ★ Home Run | 12m | Don't Bother | Tue 4th Jan 2022 | ||||
One awkward 15ish move then a dirty grade 11 slab.
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11 | ★ Honk On | 10m, 4 | Average | Sun 21st Feb 2021 | ||||
12 | ★ Soho Central | 6m, 4 | Average | Sun 21st Feb 2021 | ||||
9 | 25 Years On | 8m | Average | Sun 21st Feb 2021 | ||||
Plenty of placements contrary to my guidebook description.
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14 | ★ Okipoki | 10m, 5 | Average | Sun 21st Feb 2021 | ||||
Can't see why the mountains needs these supposed babysport cliffs with legions of identical tiny overbolted slabs, garden path access and - spare me - interpretative signage at the base. OK, so you might learn how to belay and avoid - or take on the helmet - falling rocks, as the whole thing sits under a steep unstable scree slope post fire, giving the appearances of a planet best uninhabited by any who want to do anything than scratch an itch in the most mundane gym-like manner. Oh yes, and who said grid-bolting public land was OK?
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16 | ★ Devious Diversions | 10m, 5 | Average | Sun 21st Feb 2021 | ||||
Some actual slab moves beneath the sandy ash.
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Single rack to #2 at most prob, plus wires should be fine, maybe double small cams if worried ... probably best as single pitch, with some long runners... 'Cleaned' a few loose bits accidentally, will be back for the tick... and a few others that I bouldered the starts of ....