Showing all 45 routes.
Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
18 M1 | |||||
Mt Blackheath Area El Desperado Wall | |||||
18 M1 | Absoloodle
Climb ferny crack of Grandpa Chook for about 7m then traverse right to arete (3 BRs) to break, 2 aid pitons then easily to bollard and piton belay on right. Several sets of side-by-side and other single carrots visible from above start. Looks very freeable - but description says aid. The direct start looks cleaner and better and is marked "SCA" - apparently Silver City Express. FA: H Luxford & Keith Bell | 40m, 3 | |||
18 | |||||
Bald Head Long Routes | |||||
18 | Figgetit
Starts several hundred metres right of 'Serendipitous Cracks', and about 100m left of the Hat Hill Creek waterfall. The climb is the small left facing corner crack in the middle of the steep yellow wall of sand, and is distinguished by two gnarled fig trees at the base of the corner.
Further pitches may be possible, but the territory looks steep and uncompromising, and the "rock" looks like it gets worse before getting better. Make sure you take double ropes if you intend to retreat (it's a full 50m rap). FA: Andrew Duckworth & Peter Monks, 2001 | 48m | |||
Bald Head Advanced Air Studio Wall | |||||
18 | ★★ The Little Dragon
Corner crack in position to die for. The rock is solid and the climb is well protected. Soft for the grade. Find two carrots at the top to rap down to a mini ledge. Start on the left of a boulder to climb up. FFA: Martin Cankov & Roxy, 29 May 2021 | 40m | |||
Bald Head Tiger Stripe Wall | |||||
18 | ★★ Jugular Vein Distention (JVD)
The easiest and tradiiest route on the wall - was the last to be climbed! Rap in from The Opportunistic Pathogen or Rocket Girl anchors to shared belay with The Dimerisation Interface. Both ways involve swinging across. From here follow the incredibly obvious cliff splitting crack to the top. Real trad climbers will ignore all the bolts next to the crack in the first 15m. Enjoy the pump! Bring a double rack with x1 #5 or #6. Belay off the double bolts on the slabby bit of rock about 10m up the hill from the cliff edge. FFA: Match & Ben Roberts, 8 May 2019 | 52m | |||
Hanging Rock Crayfish Creek | |||||
18 | Hayabusa
No info known about this route as it is not listed in print guides. | 25m | |||
Hanging Rock | |||||
18 | Panic on Hanging Rock
| 80m | |||
18 | On The Wallaby Track
| 85m | |||
Closed Pulpit Rock Bellbird Wall area | |||||
18 | ★★ Bellbird Wall
1
16
45m
2
18
40m
3
15
15m
Park at 'Pulpit' Rock carpark and walk down towards 'Pulpit' Rock (take care if using Google maps, there are two or three pulpit rock lookouts/carparks. Use the link provided to get the correct one). Turn off left at the 12th drain (wide wooden drains cross this track) after about 200m. Follow the evident trail trending right for about 60m leading to the ridge line. At this point turn L and look for a single RB. Hook in here with your safety line and set up your ropes off the 2RB's around the corner. Rap down 46m passing FH's and RB's to the ledge.There's a belay on the left and on the right, use the ones on the left. Set up your ropes off draws (as there is a lot of friction, hard to pull ropes otherwise) on these RB's and rap 46m to the base. Best to belay to the tree and belay the next climber on the exposed 'walk' to the right. Facing the cliff walk 20m right taking care and up to the tree in the corner where the route starts (single ring belay, and good tree on right). Take 16 draws, and a couple for the anchors.
FA: Niall Doherty, Jason Lammers, Vanessa Peterson, Veronica Trainor, Althea Arguelles-Ling, Chris Ling & Mike Law, 2009 | 100m, 3, 16 | |||
18 | ★★ Beggars Belief
Aka the Bellbird Wall trad variant, it beggars belief that it took until now for these splitters to be climbed! Approach and rap in as per Bellbird Wall (BbW).
FFA: Rene Provis & Julie Pon, Sep 2018 | 100m, 3, 2 | |||
Atlantis | |||||
18 | Funk Soul Brother
Access route to the mini routes above the big cave. Climb Hillbilly (24) then traverse right along break (grade 18) to small ledge. FA: M.Pircher & S.Grkovic, 1999 | 12m | |||
Mt Boyce Walk-Down Gully | |||||
18 | Kamikaze
| 61m | |||
18 | ★ El Matador
| 92m | |||
18 | Professional Fat Lamb Man
| 20m | |||
Mt Boyce Shock Wall/Fire Bug Mall | |||||
18 | ★★★ Gold Star
1
16
30m
2
18
28m
FA: Bryden Allen † & R.Lassman, 1972 | 58m, 2 | |||
18 | Cow Chaser
Start as for Manx/Bonnieville then follow the carrots up the wall and over the boulder/roof at the top. Take small cams, a medium wire, and a #3 Camalot or similar for the start FA: Farty Paul & R Bourne FA: Paul Turner & R Bourne, 2004 | 20m | |||
Mt Boyce Afghan/Girl in the Mirror wall | |||||
18 | ★ Kabul Offensive
Start: 5m right again. FA: A.Penney & J.Smoothy, 1984 | 50m | |||
Mt Boyce Absquealers | |||||
18 | ★★ Penny Arcade P's 2 and 3 only
FA: Niall Doherty & Roger Bourne, 2007 | 36m | |||
Heathcliff | |||||
18 | ★ Boadicea
1
18
30m
2
10
40m
FA: G.Short & W Williams, 2007 | 70m, 2 | |||
18 | ★★ Fake Blood
Start: as for BB then right line of bolts FA: Damien Heath & Tony Williams, 2003 | 20m, 10 | |||
18 | ★ Unearthed DF
P4) Up crack and left at top. Good rock (!), pro and climbing. Best pitch of the route. FA: C Kritzinger & D Smith, 2004 | 25m | |||
Celebrity Crags Jimmy Cliff | |||||
18 | ★ Mr Scumbag
A bit of a sandbag with one of the hardest moves on the whole wall. Rebolted 2017. FA: C. Hale, 1995 | 20m | |||
18 | ★★ Johnny's Jalopies
Shared start with previous, then straight up. Fun jug hauling. Rebolted 2017. FA: C. Hale, 1995 | 20m, 7 | |||
Gateway, Doomsday & Fort Rock Gateway | |||||
18 | ★ Smooth & Crunchy
Ridiculous steepness for the grade. Steep pocketed start through right side of the left most of the Gateway caves. Finish with airy traverse right to anchors. Backjump or second to clean. Rebolted 2019. FA: J.Smoothy sometime last century. | 12m, 5 | |||
Porters Pass Dogs, Cats & Apples Wall | |||||
18 | ★★ Apron Strings
The crack and slab at the left end on the wall. Finishes at lower-off under roof - a 60m rope gets you on the ground with stretch (put a knot at the end please). FA: L.Nordick, 1991 | 32m | |||
Centennial Glen Junket Pumper Area | |||||
18 | Stephen Grunter
Pretty crap, unless you like grunty mantles. Oh, and if you fall off try not to hit a ledge. Start just R of BB. FA: J.Dodson, 2001 | 10m, 5 | |||
Shipley Lower | |||||
18 | Oranje
Starts 5 metres right of Sidewinder. The 3rd pitch of this climb is the variant finish to StCC which precedes the one recorded as 42. It was climbed without bolts.
FA: Keith Bell & Ray Lassman, 1972 | 72m, 3, 2 | |||
18 | ★ Lambeg Drums
Start: As for CO.
FA: C.Martin & R.Chick, 1984 | 90m, 3 | |||
Shipley Upper Sandwiches Wall | |||||
18 | ★ Giles Bradbury Memorial Stretch
Start left of steps up roof. Swing through the left side of the roof then either continue to the top on unpleasant ironstone (as per the original "route"), or traverse the lip, or reverse. Set: Giles Bradbury? | 12m | |||
18 | ★ Hold on to Your Hats
Rings, just to the right of Pompadour. FA: D.Noble, 1990 | 15m | |||
Shipley Upper Grey Slab | |||||
18 | ★ The Bandoline Grip
Follows the obvious orange streak up the middle of the wall. Ringbolts. FA: C. Martin & J. Smoothy, 1985 | 18m, 6 | |||
18 | ★ The Answer is Obvious
Off the ledge to the left of the dead tree. Ringbolts. Good! FA: C.Martin, 1985 | 20m | |||
Big Top | |||||
18 | ★ Llewdicrous
A famous chimney slot problem - originally done on trad (at grade 20) and now retrobolted. Up ramp to base of chimney (optional belay). Squeeze upwards and be thankful it is no longer graded 17! FA: Keith Bell & P Giles FA: M.Pircher, 2001 | 25m | |||
18 | Pink Panther
Another old trad line only recently written up. Sustained climbing up rightward slanting crack on pinkish rock.
FA: Keith Bell & Ray Lassman, 1972 | 48m, 3 | |||
18 | ★ YonX
On paper this appears to be the easiest route in this neck of the woods BUT the opening move is a real slap in the face. Bolted undercut shallow corner with low anchors. This route was originally done on trad in the 70s and finished off to the right onto the arete (old piton) right of Abso as a 35m pitch that topped out. FA: Keith Bell, P Giles & C Blunsden FA: M.Pircher, 1999 | 15m | |||
18 | ★ Kubrick Crack
The crack on the upper side of the boulder. Starts out as hands then quickly widens to offwidth (carrots protects the top part). FFA: G Delacy & B Stevens, 1987 | 12m | |||
Mt Blackheath Area El Desperado Wall | |||||
18 | Hangover
Climbed on News Years Day and the name reflects the condition of the first ascentionists as well as the climb. Start. Keep following the ramp above Ferny Chimney to the top of block. Climb starts off its left hand side.
FA: Keith Bell & Kevin Bell | 20m | |||
18 | Senile Dementia
Good looking corner but vegetated again. Was cleaned before climbing. Start: Marked SD/JB
FA: H. Luxford & K. Bell, 1980 | 40m | |||
Megalong Valley Crags Spider Crag | |||||
18 | ★ Shazzam
The obvious, large undercut arête.
FA: dale tweedie, 2013 | 29m, 2 | |||
Megalong Valley Crags The Phoenix | |||||
18 | ★ Shortcut to Exposure
FA: J Anderson & C Coghil | 45m | |||
18 | ★ Firefly
Thin finger crack 10m left of The Phoenix. Has its own lower offs. FA: Julian Anderson | 8m | |||
Megalong Valley Crags James Bond The Slab | |||||
18 | ★★ Lotus Esprit
FA: J.Andersen, 2004 | 10m, 3 | |||
Megalong Valley Crags James Bond Mr Big Area | |||||
18 | ★★ Honey Rider
1
18
20m
2
12
15m
3
18
25m
Left arete of big wall. All ringbolts.
Can just rap to first chain belay ledge from top anchor with single 60m rope, and then on to ground. FA: J.Andersen & K.McKenzie, 2003 | 60m, 3 | |||
18 | ★ Goldfinger
The dirty but decent looking crack. It will get better as it cleans up. Take small cams and a vision of what could be. Face crack right of vegetated corner FA: R.Ford FA: R.Ford, 2004 | 12m | |||
18 R | |||||
Bald Head Long Routes | |||||
18 R | ★★ Serendipitous Cracks
Start: A blatantly obvious wide crack with 2 roofs on the first pitch. This is the first crack you will come to as you exit from dry creek bed approach. A small tree is directly in front of the start of the crack, and a rusty carabiner and old shoe mark the start of the climb.
FA: Mark Wilson & Craig Hale, 2000 | 210m, 5 | |||
Shipley Lower | |||||
18 R | ★★ St Clemmen's Crack Variant
3m left to wall and narrow ledge, crack, up and mantle. Diagonally right and up (poor pro!). Diagonally left up ramp and corner to orange overlap.Traverse around nose, up right side of arete. Take wires! Start: At SCC anchor 1. FA: D.Grey, B.Maxwell, R.Taylor & I.Collins, 1985 | 40m |
Showing all 45 routes.