Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
V7 | |||||
Evan Stone area | |||||
V7 | ★★★ The West Face
Okish crimps, meh footers, dyno to sloper lip FA: Alan Ezzy, 16 Jan 2016 | 3m | |||
V7 | ★★★ 7th Rule of Fight Club
As for FC then keep thrutching past the chockstone and up into daylight without stemming on the other side. FA: Ben Vincent, 28 Mar 2021 | 7m | |||
V6 | |||||
Evan Stone area | |||||
V6 | ★★★ Licorice allsorts
Start on burly undercling, then choose your own adventure through the mixture of differ holds: crimp, pinch, jam, slopers up to the right trending horizontal rail | 3m | |||
V6 | ★★★ Fight Club
The first rule of Fight Club is: You do not talk about Fight Club. The Evan's Stone block is split in two forming a small cavern. FC is burly offwidth roof traverse through this underground crack. Sit start at the far end on double knee bars, traverse right and finish by touching the tip of the large hanging chockstone. A wild and unique fight awaits you. FA: Ben Vincent, 8 Jan 2021 | 5m | |||
V5 | |||||
Yoda's cave | |||||
V5 | ★★★ Swingers Club
Sick burly arete problem. Start left hand on high pinch, high feet and and pull like a dog! hands off the features on the face to the right. FA: Benji Dutaillis, 8 May 2020 | 5m | |||
Above the private sector | |||||
V5 | ★★★ 50 calories in 50 seconds
Start on low fist jams, somehow pull on and wrestle your way to off width victory. FA: Brendan Heywood, 11 Nov 2018 | 3m | |||
Evan Stone area | |||||
V5 | ★★★ Blokus
Instant classic: Sloper start, up through crimps to sloper, then zig zag to compression moves to top. FA: Ben Vincent & Brendan Heywood, 13 Feb 2022 | 6m | |||
V5 | ★★ Water birth project
Squat start on good left hand and rail, slapping up to jug then hard top out. Needs a quite low water level. | 3m | |||
V5 | ★★★ Evan Stone
Delicate start up a rounded rail. It looks scary but gets better and easier and the fall isn't as bad as you think. V5 is for the 2 crimp moves into the rail, but if you start on the rail it's much easier. | 4m | |||
Water tunnel area | |||||
V5 | ★★★ Tilted
SDS left on sloper, right on pinch, then up arete while trying not to barn off right and into the mini canyon. | 3m | |||
Moonscape area | |||||
V5 | ★★ The Landing Zone
Stand start on some marginal crimpers, set feet and punch to top. | 3m | |||
V5 | ★★★ In plain sight SDS
Sit start with left hand on good arete and right spanning to poor sidepull sloper (the lowest 'hold' on the right side), slap up for jug off some pretty bad feet. Stack pads at your discretion, obviously gets easier with more pads. | 4m | |||
V5 | ★★★ Space jam
Starts 1-2m of Evacuation station on the great flake. Up flake, into horizontal roof crack and then grunt around the rooflet into the open. A stellar jamming test piece. FA: Ben Vincent, 3 May 2020 | 4m | |||
Below the bridge | |||||
V5 | ★★ Riverside reflections
SDS through the sloper steps, then traverse right and around the corner to the rail and then either up or across the face FA: carol lee & Ben Vincent, 25 Sep 2021 | 4m | |||
V5 | ★★★ Shawarma
Instant classic, not exactly Sharma but still very tasty. Sit start in the corner, up through crimpy side pulls then reach to right gaston and mantle. Eliminate the face side pulls is around V5. | 3m | |||
24 | |||||
Above the private sector | |||||
24 | ★★★ The Elver Escape
Balancy slab problem. Spend an age eyeing up potential holds from beside the climb before being peer pressured into actually getting on it. Tiny crimpers get you established and some little gem crimper slots get you the escape. Mint. FA: Ben Vincent, 31 May 2020 | 5m | |||
V4 | |||||
Above the private sector | |||||
V4 | ★★ Dracula's scapula
| 6m | |||
V4 | ★★ Tufa fatu
A punchy number on a tufa like feature. Over some shallow water so needs some rocks or logs under the pads. FA: Brendan Heywood, 31 Oct 2018 | 3m | |||
Evan Stone area | |||||
V4 | ★★ Tumble Jumble
Jam in back, roof moves out right side avoiding left side | 3m | |||
V4 | ★ Right side of history
Up face and right arete | 3m | |||
V4 | ★ A cult following
Join our select group! Drink the Kool-Aid! Start on the rail but avoid the flat top out and stretch way out left to the side pull, right heel hook, then match and work your way left up along the lower rail. FA: Ben Vincent, 16 Jan 2016 | 3m | |||
V4 | ★★ Red licorice
Stand start left on the pinch, right on tiny crimp, then up onto the right trending rail. FA: Brendan Heywood, 4 Oct 2021 | 3m | |||
Tradies area | |||||
V4 | ★★ Compression cycle
Very delicate and balancy one move problem. FA: Brendan Heywood, 27 May 2017 | 2m | |||
The holy land | |||||
V4 | ★★ Bell tower
Very delicate moves up the right face and the arete FA: Brendan Heywood, 4 Nov 2019 | 4m | |||
Hydrological drought area | |||||
V4 | ★ Benji's wall
Sequency start up then finish up right FA: Benji Dutaillis, 28 Jun 2020 | 4m | |||
Riverside Boulder | |||||
V4 | Nose tranverse
Traverse around the blunt nose | 7m | |||
Scultpure garden | |||||
V4 | ★★ OUAS Direct
As for OUAS but bridge high in roof and top out above. FA: Ben Vincent & Brendan Heywood, 20 Nov 2017 | 2m | |||
Moonscape area | |||||
V4 | ★★★ Bucking Brumby Arête
Start as for LD. Up arête using R seam, L high crimp & not much else. Dangerous landing. | 3m | |||
V4 | ★★ 25% crack
Up the crack then delicately step past the slab to the right high side pull. Easier with long span. | 3m | |||
V4 | ★★★ Gushing over
3 stars of fun absurdity. This needs logs to build up a pad platform. Up the same arete as Gravity Well but head left through the blunt saddle with a finish you will gush over. FA: Benji Dutaillis, 3 May 2020 | 3m | |||
V4 | ★★ Sloper rail
Sit start left hand on the sidepull, traverse onto rail and up | 1m | |||
V3 | |||||
Yoda's cave | |||||
V3 | ★★ Baby Yoda
Step over the end of the pond and start on good jugs, swing under and then link it up left all the way to 'Pan Sweater' FA: Ben Vincent, 2 Jul 2020 | 6m | |||
V3 | ★★ Pan sweater
Fantastic scary highball gem. Just don't fall! FA: Brendan Heywood, 27 May 2017 | 5m | |||
V3 | ★★ Dyno or do not dyno
There is no try. From the good starting jug just dyno up to lip | 2m | |||
V3 | ★★ Dagobah
As for the full traverse but take a lower hard line | 10m | |||
Above the private sector | |||||
V3 | ★★ Chock blocks
Lie down start then up through chock stones. If you don't want to 'struggle' up the crack then bail right early FA: Ben Vincent, 6 Dec 2018 | 3m | |||
V3 | ★★ Tufa tuu far
Same start, dyno up right FA: Brendan Heywood, 29 Nov 2018 | 3m | |||
Evan Stone area | |||||
V3 | ★ The Sickle
Low hard sit start through sickle shape then up avoiding right edge. Ideally link into The Hammer FA: Benji Dutaillis, Ben Vincent & Brendan Heywood, 13 Feb 2022 | 3m | |||
V3 | ★★ Chicken Cacciatore
About 5m further right, lie down start inside the off width and chicken wing your way to freedom! FA: Brendan Heywood & Ben Vincent, 13 Feb 2022 | 1m | |||
V3 | ★★ Three Ways
Awesome but probably an acquired taste. Lie start in the offwidth, traverse left then reach up to slimper, then mantle right and to top. The offwidth can be done with a variety of techniques and is a perfect place to practice hand stacks. FA: Ben Vincent & Volodymyr K, 13 Feb 2022 | 5m | |||
V3 | ★★ Fumble Jumble
Start jammed low in the back, move through the perfect hole jam and out without touching the right side | 3m | |||
V3 | ★ The east face
Up the face using the left arete | 3m | |||
V3 | ★ Hock it
Start matched on corner, throw heel on and up | 1m | |||
V3 | ★★ Warmup Sit Start
A lower sit start on good holds, either through a slimper or dyno to freedom. | 4m | |||
V3 | ★ Al, Ben & Phil's Excellent Slabby Adventure
SS at the L-H end of the slabby wall. Up sharp side pulls to meaty undercling. Delicately up slab to glory rail and top-out. FA: Ben Vincent & Alan Ezzy, 16 Jan 2016 | 4m | |||
Tradies area | |||||
V3 | ★ Cold slab
SDS layback up to chip then span out to right and up FA: Brendan Heywood, 27 May 2017 | 3m | |||
V3 | ★★ Sakata Fusion
Sit start, then through right side pulls FA: carol lee, 27 May 2017 | 2m | |||
V3 | ★★ Asian squat
Jam start at the back, then layback and span up without touching left boulder FA: Brendan Heywood, 27 May 2017 | 2m | |||
The holy land | |||||
V3 | ★★ Finger of god
Up the face using the right high foot and small left gaston FA: Brendan Heywood, 4 Nov 2019 | 3m | |||
V3 | ★★ A cauldron of covid
A short punchy number. Sit start on the two holds with smeared feet, pull on to heel then top out to the right over a hole filled with skank water. FA: Brendan Heywood, 27 Aug 2022 | 1m | |||
V3 | Sacrificial grain
SDS then left and up | 3m | |||
V3 | ★★ Weird one
Could be a finger crack, a gaston mantle, or a powerful layback. Complete the set! | 2m | |||
V3 | ★ West Schism
Start in slightly flaring jam and go up right FA: Ben Vincent, 30 Oct 2018 | 2m | |||
V3 | ★★★ Pilgrimage
Start as for 'Cracked vessel', then along the rail, then traverse the rest of the face avoiding the top | 7m | |||
Scultpure garden | |||||
V3 | ★★★ Torpedo room
Only accessible during bad drought. Sit start, up blunt nose then dyno to lip without swinging into the water. FA: Brendan Heywood, 31 Aug 2019 | 2m | |||
V3 | ★ Periscope
Hard crimp one move problem to mantle FA: Ben Vincent, 19 Dec 2022 | 1m | |||
V3 | ★★★ Open up and say
Unique! Start sitting inside the bulb facing right, bridge out right to arete and up | 3m | |||
V3 | ★ Left Tonsil
Hard thin start FA: Brendan Heywood, 28 Jun 2020 | 2m | |||
V3 | ★★ Soft palate
Hang start, campus traverse until you can use your feet FA: Benji Dutaillis, 28 Jun 2020 | 3m | |||
Moonscape area | |||||
V3 | ★ Rocking Horse Right
Start with hands on the mantle piece, throw a right leg over. | 2m | |||
V3 | ★★ Horse Trader
Start on the mantel piece and make your way to the Shetland pony under the L lobe (as for Seahorse). Mantle L lobe and finish up arête as for PR. | 3m | |||
V3 | ★★ Crossing The Void
Same as for Seahorse but once you arrive at ACITWB/SP span across the void & out to the lobes. Once successfully across and established complete the circuit by topping out LD or BB. | 2m | |||
V3 | ★★ Seahorse
Start on The L side of the mantle piece, campus around & move under L lobe to L side of Washbasin. Ride the Shetland pony (small hidden lobe) then follow obvious seam around to the beginning of the mossy crack & then up as for ACITWB/SP. | 2m | |||
V3 | ★★ Long Drop
From start block chest jam the void mantle & ride the R pony (or simply mantle the R lobe direct). Step up & bridge across the void out L to small chip. Reach out high & R to seam & work up to assist with the final mantle | 3m | |||
V3 | ★★ Catfish And The Wormy Jam
Using the woody debris footer press up & lodge your torso in the offwidth. Wriggle, crimp, jam & squirm your way to victory. | 3m | |||
V3 | ★ Gamma ray
SDS and up the right leaning crack, sketchy landing | 3m | |||
V3 | ★★★ Stingray
The obvious finger crack line L of Xray. SDS and up the crack. | 3m | |||
V3 | ★ Gollum Pit Layback
Sit start under large rail above entrance. Use small feet on opposite boulder. Up layback until boulders meet & into crack/mantle/jugs etc. | ||||
V3 | ★ Moonrise
Step up on obvious block and trend up and L then to top. | 3m | |||
V3 | ★ Full moon
Left on the arete, right opposed on the sloper, up the face avoiding the jug to the right. | 3m | |||
V3 | ★ Half Moon
Stand start. Up arete finishing on little jugs at top. | 3m | |||
V3 | ★★ Gravitational lock
Super delicate slab moves | 2m | |||
V3 | ★★ Erudite coprolite
Start on the sculpted under slaps, up through weird big features and high step FA: Brendan Heywood, 20 Sep 2015 | 3m | |||
V3 | ★★ In plain sight
Start on the obvious head height jug. Slap up left on bad feet to the top corner, then a weird tricky mantle out. | 4m | |||
V3 | crimp left face
Harder than it should be | 2m | |||
V3 | ★★ Octopus asylum
The left deep pit. Layback / offwidth / chimney out of the pothole. FA: Ben Vincent, 3 May 2020 | 3m | |||
Below the stairs | |||||
V3 | ★ Space mushroom
Sit start on ok holds, then traverse left along the holds on the rim without going up to the lip and around. FA: Brendan Heywood, 24 Oct 2019 | 2m | |||
V3 | Gritstone tombstone
Stand start with high right pinch up gritty slopers. A much harder sit start may go. FA: Brendan Heywood, 4 Sep 2021 | 3m | |||
Below the bridge | |||||
V3 | ★ Riverside rejections
Sit start the through two sets of slopers and up FA: Brendan Heywood, carol lee & Ben Vincent, 25 Sep 2021 | 2m | |||
V3 | ★ Botanic gardens
Old fashioned thrutching, or a fun layback with jugs. Choose wisely. | 4m | |||
V3 | ★★ Lost Lamington
Start in the crack then left up the rail | 4m | |||
V3 | ★★ Max Brenner
Traverse over to the crack FA: Alan Ezzy | 3m | |||
V2 | |||||
Yoda's cave | |||||
V2 | ★★ Baby Yoda's Swamp Bog
Start on the dry waterfall, then step around and a slopey traverse over the water, and possibly link into 'Baby Yoda' FA: Ben Vincent, 2 Jul 2020 | 6m | |||
V2 | ★★ Extension start
Alternate longer almost lie down start | 3m | |||
V2 | ★★ Yoda Traverse
Instead of mantle slap all the way right FA: Brendan Heywood & Ben Vincent | 9m | |||
Above the private sector | |||||
V2 | ★★ Stale Pringles
Start on arete and chockstone, up thin crimps. Chockstone can be eliminated | 4m | |||
V2 | ★★ No big deal
Sit start with feet on the chock stone, up great crack. Don't fall. FA: Nathan H., 11 Nov 2018 | 4m | |||
V2 | ★★ Remembrance Traverse
Start right on the end (possibly over water) and slap all the way into Remembrance | 3m | |||
V2 | ★★ Wreath
A nice slopey crimps through a bulgy mantle FA: Brendan Heywood, 11 Nov 2018 | 2m | |||
V2 | ★★★ The squeeze test
Sit start on finger crack deep in the dark and then finish on top in the sunlight. Crux is the entire thing trying to figure out which elbow goes where and how to simultaneously push while pulling and keep your core tense while also being relaxed, and whether to go head first or feet first. Impossible to grade, but worthwhile entertainment If you can't physically fit, a no hands bat hang finish is a worthy substitute. FA: Volodymyr K | 1m | |||
V2 | ★ Rail chaser
| 5m | |||
V2 | ★★ Misplaced car keys
| 6m | |||
V2 | ★ Diagon Alley
| 5m | |||
Evan Stone area | |||||
V2 | ★ The jug tunnel
A bit silly. Directly right of the Death roof and behind the side pull problem. Traverse through the tunnel on the finger crack, then at the end reach up to the jug and mantle without touching either side. FA: Brendan Heywood, Benji Dutaillis & Ben Vincent, 13 Feb 2022 | 3m | |||
V2 | ★ Side pull
On the ledge 5m right of the Death Roof. Up a thin side pull weakness FA: Brendan Heywood, Benji Dutaillis & Ben Vincent, 13 Feb 2022 | 3m | |||
V2 | ★★ Mother's Milk
Committing solo up the wavy slab to the mega feature. Psych yourself and crimp your way up and out. FA: Ben Vincent, 31 May 2020 | 6m | |||
V2 | ★ Lefty rock on
Stand start up face and using the right arete | 2m | |||
V2 | ★★ Sleight of hand
Start on the odd undercling and up the rail | 4m | |||
V2 | ★★ Lava lamp
Up the curvy arete FA: Benji Dutaillis, Ben Vincent & Brendan Heywood, 28 Apr 2020 | 4m | |||
Tradies area | |||||
V2 | ★ Lie down on the job
Lie down start up jugs FA: carol lee, 27 May 2017 | 2m |