28m (14) L leading flake 6m L of 'Downard', when it runs out at the horizontal break step L and up slab [small cams] to next horizontal. Move L to finish up seam as for 'Butterfly Farm' [it is possible to go up directly but the rock is a bit rotten].
12m (4) Traverse up and L to large ledge, L along this to abseil bolts. [40m abseil to ground]
26m (14) Crack 6m L of ARB to detached looking block. Good small cams out R then slightly leftward up clean slab above to seam through bulge. Up this to belay on L under overhang.
12m (4) Traverse up and L to large ledge, L along this to abseil bolts. [40m abseil to ground]
25m (14) Surprisingly awkward jam crack to small stance.
20m (14) A few thin moves to start, then up and slightly L to large ledge. Abseil bolts [40m to ground] The route originally finished up the dangerously unstable dirt slope with rocks sticking out of it to the L.
Worse and dirtier than it looks, and it looks disgusting. Don't even think about doing the second pitch. Come to think of it just don't do any of it.
40m (12) The disgusting cleft around to the L of TPTB is climbed [and I use the term loosely] more on dirt than rock to the big ledge. If you have any sense left abseil off the rap bolts now.
50m (14) Up and R on poorly protected mank to ledge. Follow it right and tunnel behind pillar to finish up easy arete above it. A pointless and unpleasant excursion.
FA:Chris Baxter, Dave Gairn [alts] & David Schirra, 1988
Takes the nice looking flake corner on the L arête of 'Lip Service'. Start 1m L of LS. Up seam to bulge, committing moves L into base of flake corner, up this heading R at the top to the abseil bolts.
Quite a good old fashioned crack struggle. Take a BD 4 and 5 for the second pitch.
25m (13) The deep jam crack 5m L of RD to the ledge below the overhanging corner.
15m (18) Jam and use small holds on the R wall to struggle up the off width crack to ledge. Sustained, and originally graded 15. If you can't get up it you can traverse L from the ledge and up a steep juggy wall at about grade 12.
25m (14) Step R and straight up wall as for P2 of 'Rattlesnake Daddy'. [Originally finished more easily to the L but the finish as described is much better].
Supposed to be rather good, but I doubt anyone has ever repeated it to verify its quality or grade. Takes the prominent stepped corner line down the L hand end of the cliff.
30m (17) Climb broken flakes under L end of low roof to prominent L facing corner. Up this for a few meters then diagonally up L across slab to roof. Squeeze through gap, bridge next corner then step L to arete. Through overlap to jugs and stance.
20m (19) Awkward, sustained climbing up twin diagonal cracks to vertical flaring crack. Reach up and R to good holds and swing across to a stance. Step down to lower stance then traverse delicately R across wall passing a carrot [12mm, sling with a wire] at head height. Holds improve near arete. Up.