Routes as trad in Halls Gap Area

Wanders its way up the ground (the word is used deliberately) right of 'Epicurian' in search of rock that will stay attached to the cliff.

1. 12m Little corner 6m right of 'Epicurian' to grassy ledge. Up line then step right to arete.

2. 18m Traverse left and up into shallow flaring chimney (big loose flake on left). Up this chimney and exit right over more loose blocks. Up easier crack to step right udner prow.

3. 18m Corner right of prow. Bush and dirt leads to crack above and up until able to traverse right to below twin cracks.

4. 12m Twin cracks then exit right. Wall, overhang and short crack.

There is a rap chain and ring at the top of Separation Anxiety that serves these first five climbs. Aegis starts approximately 40m right of Chicanery at a detached flake/pinnacle on the right hand edge of an orange wall.

1. 25m. Climb to the top of the flake. Move right and up to a ledge. Up the steep wall then the crack to a small stance.

2. 35m. Climb the steep corner to a long overhang on the left at 7m. Move right to an easing in the overhang. Pull over this then make a long traverse L to the R arete of the vegetated gully. Climb the arete to finish in gully.

Excellent steep climbing on good holds. Start 2m R of Akimbo.

1. 37m. 18. Up the initial weakness then up tending rightwards to the L end of a slabby wall. R tothe base of a small L-facing corner. Up this, continue past a FH, then through a small roof to below the major roof. Move R and up, through the break to an exposed stance on the R.

2. 20m. 17. Up for a couple of moves then L to the arete. Up then back into the line following steep jugs to the top.

There is a rap chain and ring at the top (a 53m abseil back to the starting terrace)

P1) 18 Climb Separation Anxiety to FH at half height then diagonal right to base of the hanging V corner. Up a body length or two then spacily onto the right arete and up to belay in alcove as for chicanery. P2) 19 Up and left to gain the fantastically airy left diagonal crack that slashed the headwall between SA and C. Climb it and live the good life!

The most prominent line up the guts of the main wall. Take some big gear.

1. 24m (19). Takes the big L-facing flake crack. Climb around the low overhang into the wide, steep crack. Climb this into the bottomless chimney. At the big roof, move out right onto the steep juggy wall and up to a small stance.

2. 24m. Straight up into the line above and so to the top.

The steep juggy groove 20m left of Chicanery. Climb the groove (L of the blank-ish wall) to exit slightly left via a short chimney.

The following four routes are located on the small outcrop in front of / below Akimbo.

The L-most crack.

The next Crack to the Right. A tricky start hen generous pockets to the top.

The next crack to the right of SYL.

The R-most crack, finishing in the notch.

The following three routes are on the front of the big pinnacle left of the main face. GOTG takes the left hand of two major lines on the face just around right of Sentinel Corner (SC is a prominent line with an enticing finger-crack-corner part way up).

1. Start as for Sentinel Corner. Up until able to move carefully rightward to step around the arete onto the left edge of the wall beneath a face crack. An intimidating few steep moves up to gain the crack/line proper. Lovely climbing up this to the top. There is a double bolt rap anchor at the top of the centre of the east face of the pinnacle.

some small gear useful for the crux.

1. 16m. Move up and traverse R to a crack leading into the corner proper. Climb the crack and continue up the corner to gain a sloping ledge and a belay in a 'slot'

2. 34m. crux. Move back R and climb the overhanging corner to a small ledge. Climb up to a small overhang. Exit L and continue up the line.

1. 16m. As for SC (freed).

2. 30m. Climb the slot above the belay to a stance on the left. Traverse back R to the original line and follow it.

These next two routes are located on a wall up and left from the top of the Main Wall (Chicanery etc.), and can't easily be approached from below. Either approach from above (i.e. from the Sundial car-park) or access after doing one of the climbs on the Main wall.

1. the left of twin cracks on a major buttress on the left side (east) of the amphitheatre.

An enticing natural line. Hand-crack on the left side of the amphitheatre. R-slanting crack in narrow face to bushy ledge on R. Step R, up crack, then over block.

This is on a small wall up left of the main cliff. The wall 4m left of a diagonal weakness and large tree on the left side of the face. Climb above the bulge then finish up the cracks on the left.

The attractive left-facing flake-crack on the lower tier, towards the left end of the face.

A very good route that climbs the major, left-facing corner in the upper left section of the cliff.

1. 18m From the small cairn 10m right of Fool's Gold, climb the slabby wall to a large tree (landmark) at the right end of a bushy ledge. Up the corner just right of this to a major horizontal break. Head left on this for 3m to a corner with a wide crack (#4 Friend for belay).

2. 17m (crux) Step up left to the next corner and climb it.

Good, varied climbing. Cairned. This and other names commemorate the experience of walking in circles below the crag in thick fog.

1. 18m (crux) Straight up the hard little groove 3m right of The Desperate and Divided Years to a horizontal break. Climb the steep wall above, then easy climbing to below a roof. Up the flakes to under the right side of the roof, then go left under it and back right up the crack above it to a corner.

2. 12m Step right onto the arete and climb it in a dramatic position.

1. 16m Start up the shallow groove 7m right of Jane Duff Memorial. Veer slightly right and climb the steep little corner to a ledge below the headwall.

2. 10m Climb the crack above.

A very good climb

1. 16m Start up the left-leading diagonal crack 3m right of Sisters of the Sun, and immediately left of the small pillar. Climb above the bulge, go slightly left up the slab to the corner. Step left and up the rib to a ledge below a finger-crack.

2. 10 (crux) Climb the crack.

Variants on Late for the Sky. Climb up the corner, as for Late for the Sky, but continue up the crack. Head left below an overlap and up the hanging corner as for Late for the Sky. Traverse right at the overlap to a flake, head up this and the crack above.

Good Climbing. Head up the juggy crack on the small buttress 1m right of Late for the Sky. Pull onto the slab above the steep section and go up to the overlap. Go 2m right under this, then climb the wall to join Epic Master at a small tree.

Tackles the middle of the main orange wall with good, sustained climbing. Needs cleaning. Climb the lichenous groove with chicken heads near the middle of the wall, and 2m right of Lost in the Bush. This leads to the foot of an orange ramp which sweeps up left past a small tree to finish steeply straight up.

Brilliant corner.

1. 20m From below a block on the ground below the major right-facing corner in the upper half of the main cliff, go up right, then back up left on slabs. Take the short corner to a ledge below the main corner.

2. 20m (crux) Climb the corner.

Fierce and sustained wall climbing with mediocre protection.

1. 20m Head up Cash Cow to belay.

2. 20m (crux) Start 1.5m right of the corner. Head up and slightly right, then up and a little left.

Good. Start on the bushy terrace behind the top of Fool's Gold and The Desperate and Divided Years up the left of the two shallow, left-facing corners. Climb up to a crack in the bulge, then the twin cracks through the next bulge. Finish up The Desperate and Divided Years.

The name is apt, it describes the conditions of the first ascent. The climbing is fair. About 7m left of the right end of the cliff a ramp leads up left to a small eucalypt (landmark) at 6m. From the tree, climb the wall for 2m, then traverse 2m left and climb the major crack.

Up face left of cave, follow chimney crack, up and under large balancing rock, round left and up to finish. Vertical cam crack on right above climb for belay.

Step off the ledge onto the hanging face. Move up the overlap. Climb a crack on the right through the bulge then up taking either of the two cracks.

Start: Scramble up to a ledge on the left hand side of the south-facing wall.

Undercling then layback out of the cave and move up to an overlap. Move slightly right and climb the wall to a groove high on the face and an easy finish.

Start: Starts as for Punchdrunk.

Quite nice.

Start: Starts left of Thunderbirds Are Go! at the cave just left of the arete on the main cliff.

Sustained route on (mostly) great rock that weaves its way up the arete at the left end of the cliff; sure to get you pumped. Typically started just left of the arete, but can also be started just right of the arete. Snakes to the right of the arete at about half height, then finishes up the corner.

Up past a bolt (crux) to easier ground.

Start: The major line equidistant from 'Grim Reaper' and Thunderbirds Are Go!

Go left and up into the corner just right of an easy line. Climb the corner to the ledge, easier climbing leads to the top.

Start: From the small ledge on 'International Rescue'

Start: Jam crack left of 'Grumpy'

Guide books describe this as "It makes you grumpy because it is harder than it looks". Consensus is that it makes you grumpy because it is harder than it is graded! Leaders should be confident at around grade 15/16 before tackling this climb.

Start: Start beneath the obvious chimney/offwidth (initialed) close to the centre of the face.

Power and finesse.

Start: 3m left of 'All Out'

Up the crack past a ledge and tree(?) to the top.

Start: 7m left of 'Gnome'

A great climb.

Start: Right end of the cliff beneath an overhang (initialled).

Climb the flake-crack to overlap. Step right to arete. Up corner.

Start: Curving flake-crack 2.5m left of 'Gnome'.

Previously overlooked for good reason.

Start: Corner right of 'Gnome' then continue up and left on wall to ledge. Left arête.

At the left end of the face there is a corner. Climb this then move right and finish up some jugs.

1m left of Yawn go straight up the wall, passing Yawn along the way.

Climb the left diagonal 5m left of Prawn Crack to an easy finish.

Climb up the crack on the right-hand side to a ledge at 6m height, then go left and up the crack.

Climb up the chimney at the south end past a small roof, then head up the crack.

Climb the crack on the front of the outcrop.

The steep juggy line 1m left of Impudent.

The crack on the north end of the outcrop.

Cairned. The black buttress which is undercut on its right side and with a smooth orange wall below an overlap; near the middle of the cliff. Step up right from easy line on left, and then up (easing significantly).

This is the loose, hollow, blocky line in the middle of the cliff.

Starts 2m right of Irate Depositors. Well worth doing. Climb the wall past a bolt, through an overhang and up the corner past a fixed wire. Continue up the flake and wall above past another bolt.

Towards the top of the descent gully at the left end of the cliff is an easy corner. A tricky layback with just sufficient protection. Climb the slabby wall then the seam just left of this. (Take a 5RP for use at half height).

About 20m left of Face Dancers, half way up the descent track is a rib sticking out from the crag. It forms a corner with an orange wall, with an oval boulder on top. Up face 2m left of corner, past a small flake and onto the “Breadknife”. Up until it joins the corner, step onto the right face, and bridge up.

Something for everyone. Climb the major yellow corner 8m down right of Space Cadets. Finish up the left arête then the groove. Pass three bolts en route.

The corner about 10-15m left of Face Dancers.

Starts on the left side of the left but- tress at a large tree. Up the wall to a ledge and over an “overlap” to some flakes which lead diagonally up left. Up the wall just right of the arête.

Starts about 12m right of Face Danc- ers just left of Cosy Corner. Gain the flake just left of the corner and follow it for 5m, move right and up the wall to the arête which is followed to the top.

The prominent corner between Sliding Dog Sandwich and the descent gully.

Climb the last crack (going right at 7m) before the boulder on the north side of the descent gully.

This climb follows the obvious stepped corner that starts 5m right of the de- scent gully. At the arête easy climbing leads to a small tree.

This must be some new meaning of the phrase “superdirect” that I am not familiar with. The shallow groove above the mid-point of the diagonal traverse. A direct start would make for an independent climb.

We all make mistakes. The arête and crack just right of White Crow. Finish on the first ledge and wonder why you bothered.

Starts about the middle of the right hand buttress at a widish crack. This is followed to a good ledge. Move left and up the arête (as led) or just right of it (as seconded, grade 16).

Short but committing layback. Scramble up to ledge with tree on the right side of the right hand buttress. Climb the distinctive thin right leaning flake above.

An attractive line with a dramatic finish which looks much harder than it is. The original write up gave the route as being 15m and only covered the top half of the climb. As there is no easy way of accessing the top half I have added a start. The route takes the right-facing, right-leaning corner in the upper half of the LH buttress. There is a gully in the middle of the LH cliff which leads up to this line. Scramble 6m up this to belay below the first steep rock. Climb cracks towards the LH side of the gully with an awkward exit to the foot of a R leading ramp. Up the ramp to the headwall. L and up to gain the corner then up this.

The RH cliff is about 60m R of Altitude Sickness. It has a steep compact central buttress bounded on the L by a corner. Start 3m L of this corner. Up loose slabby face following dirty cracks to deep crack/groove in steep headwall. Up this on suspect rock to finish up easier groove above. An unpleasant experience all round.

The corner R of THofS. Start down R and finish up a narrow chimney.

R of Camp 4 is a steep clean buttress with 2 good deep crack lines. Left crack. Above the difficulties step out L and up the short steep face. A couple of large cams around BD#4 size are useful.

The RH crack.

L arête of main slab, starting from boulder.

Start as for 'Rush'. Then left into 'Burden Of Proof'.

No chimneying required! Major L.facing chimney bounding R side of main slab.

Good crack. Up R from foot of BP to undercut crack in R wall of BP. Up this and the line above.

Exciting climbing in an excellent position up the L arête of the pillar. Climb seam 1m R of CW and go up R to arête. Straight up this, R of CW all the way.

Nice positions. From foot of big, R.facing corner on R side of pillar, go up and L to arête. Up cracks in this.

Dramatic finish. From foot of Punt Road, go up big, R.facing corner for 6 m. L in horizontal break to crack. Up, finishing steeply.

trad Major, R.facing corner bounding R side of the pillar. (Pay the Price starts up HS.)

Clean, smooth, R.leaning corner.crack on ‘back’ (E) side of Punters Pinnacle. Finish on R wall.

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There are 2 obvious deep lines on the cliff [you can see them from the carpark]. The left one.

Start 1.5m right of WOIB. Steep start then easier.

Between the two main lines there is a crack with a steep start.