Ascents in Taipan Wall - South

I can finally say that I’ve climbed on Taipan. Stiff warm up and hard for me, with my hopeless lack of sloper strength. But i think i would like to get it done and get my first Taipan tick done.

Started from the bottom of the obvious scoop inline with the 3rd bolt. From here it is a super awesome 28 which should get more traffic. The initial moves from the first bolt are hard and sharp and would make it more like 30.

Draw to draw then next shot, was a lovely introduction to such a beatiful wall.

Cool long route. Hard boulder past a wierd pinch hold.

Great little climb that can be supplemented with a few pieces. Good rests seperate some sweet open handed climbing.

2nd go, super rad climbing.

Crux is killing my forearms... Working on it!. Top part is easier but mental, beautifully exposed and after 10min meditation sitting on the Fist, it could be done.

After botching it the other day and finishing up World Party, today climbed as intended.

Was very confident but fell on the span again. Easy to bugger up!

Obviously tricky (pointless?) to grade a reach dependent crux, but for me at 175cm of reach, this is worth 27. Climbed in one pitch via Anaconda p1. If you like stop-start routes, this'll be your jam. [3]

Tried the dyno about 20 times. Latched the hold on a few occasions but didn't manage to control the swing. Ankles still sore. Onsighted the rest.

As part of Forked Tongue. That bolt is now something of a relic.

Done by many others previously as this is the obvious straight-up line of climbing. Well worth doing at this grade and gives a great introductory taste of proper Taipan climbing.

Tried very hard to onsight - failed. Fell on the span. It's less technical than the Groovy span, but about the same distance. I had so much crap hanging off my harness. A #4 rock and #1.5 cam will do it. Fingers crossed for Saturday.

The entrance exam to the main event is still pretty amazing in its own right. And you can open hand every RH hold, so perfect for a recovering finger injury. Six tries, and one shot 13 years ago.

Stuck the crux span, and dropped the next move. Shiiiiii.

Ditched the span.

Lap in the sun. Burst into flames.

13 years later and I can do the crux span - just!

From ground to crux.

Wow! first time on Taipan. The first slope-y bit felt hard. I'm pretty bad at long moves on slopers. The last move is a heartbreaker....Otherwise the climb is soooo cool.

One off the life list that's for sure

Awesome, outrageous, bouldery all the way. Nothing too hard except for the crux span but will be a very satisfying tick

Mantle move is so awkward, shame because the dyno below and the chill glory jugs above are so good

Worked the moves on Saturday got the send second go sunday, so much fun

Third session, first route at Taipan first 26 loved it

Yellow, Purple and blue Camalot in that order and a couple of finger or a little bigger stoppers for belay on ledge. 70M just reaches when rapping. Got it fourth try.

Couldn't pull off the last move to the anchors! Hard but I'll be back!

Couldn't pull off the last move to the anchors! Hard but I'll be back!