Ascents in Taipan Wall - South

got to the last bolt before flu hit hard on my body.

Feels a bit out of reach for me at the moment, literally...out of reach

Lead as a single pitch. Lowered off anchors back to chain at end of p1 with rope to spare. 80m rope.

Warm up

1st pitch only

dont even know how to log this, it was the ultimate flail. So hard, so reachy and pretty scary! stuck the first part pf the span but couldnt move from the position...

Only one shot on this but got some pretty awesome links. Climbed to the crux (with one silly slip), worked out the crux and grabbed the draw to clip (shit bolt position), had a quick hang and then onsighted from there to the just before the dyno where i promptly fell off. Pulled back on and smashed the dyno to clip the anchors, then the sun hit and there was no second try.

only one lap Maybe the coolest route i have tried on a rope, so different to the blueys! Once you are through the crux it is just awesome climbing with an awesome jump to the final jug! Keen to return for the send!

Oh yeah!!! 2nd go today, 3rd in total. Great line!! Obviously I've not done Southern Delight. Superb climbing and relatively cruisy after the sloper-crux.

AWESOME, awesome, awesome. A sublime line, which puts you in some of the best positions you've ever had in a 'single pitch sport climb'. I very much enjoyed it, although I did only use a fucking single rope without having the luxury of extendable draws or even roller biners. The rope drag was quite bad (felt like pulling up 20kg and was a bit frightening at the top combined with the rather spaced bolting. At least you save some weight with the few quickdraws. AMAZING!!!

What an excellent line!!! I've only done the first pitch. With Matt's quickdraws already in place and his beta (kneebar!!!) I was able to flash it. Awesome

Got shut down on the crux above the second bolt

Flashed up to the pocket

Just wish that the route would pack more punches after the crux. A point for dyno!!!

P1 only

P1 only. Sick!

3rd shot

Tried the deadpoint about 30 times.... I'm close, slipping off the hold in slow motion after hitting it... Have to get a bit taller or get a bit stronger before coming back to this one.

Good fun! Set up as top-rope for Julie.

First 6 =). Wanted to do this since forever, and super happy to have finally found the courage to hop on it. As mentioned so often, clipping the draw is what makes it hard... Took about 5 RP attemps over 3 days.

Much harder than invisible fist 26?

Such a cool climb!

Moved through the crux section pretty quickly and smoothly. The top section was desperate at times. The dyno for the finish jug could have gone either way. I'm wrapped to have ticked this.

Had 2 red point attempts. On the 2nd burn I made it to the RH crimp at the end of the crux but couldn't make the exit left. Pretty exciting stuff. Greatful that the draws were already on but confident enough now to put them on myself. Seems doable if I can avoid indecision with my foot placements.

Crux was, without a doubt, clipping the 4th bolt.

First pitch only, worked out the second pitch dyno, need to get back on it and tick the whole thing.