Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | Crag | |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
29 | ★★★ Eye Of The Tiger
Crikey it's good. Which is better Path Of Yin or Eye Of The Tiger? Truly superb rock architecture, with fair dinkum good moves. Was a lot harder but then some creative thinking enabled the roof passage to be climbed with out too much strength, which produced an enormous increase in it's popularity! Incredibly steep, at least 15m overhung. Start: Start at the back of the cave beneath the huge "eye" in the roof. FA: Scott Walter | 25m, 10 | Victoria Range | ||
V8 | ★★★ To Hate To Love
The burly twin of "Ministry of Love". Sit start on the off angle slopey rail and head left to the slot and jug.Traverse the overhang right on pockets to a sloper and edges and a tricky top out. | 6m | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ||
V8 | ★★★ American Dream
Sit start on the juggy holds under the roof. Move back to a bad undercling and make a hard move to the pocket on the arete. Finish up Golden Oldie. | 5m | Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) | ||
V8 | ★★★ Blackbeard's Delight | 3m | Halls Gap Area | ||
V8 | ★★ Conga Fury
The left arete starting with a RH pinch and low LH on the arete. Top out. Compression problem. | 3m | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ||
V8 | ★★★ Ammagamma Standing Start
The original problem from a standing start - to mantle the finish. FA: Dave Jones, 2000 | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | |||
29 | ★★★ Serpentine
This famous line was the first route on the wall which cried out for the mythical fourth star. Now re-bolted by HB with 75mm ball head expansions (the original laser-cut fixed hangers remain), HB also put in an anchor 1.5m to the right (you still have to top out). PLEASE DON'T PISS ON THE BELAY LEDGE (bring a pee bottle for long belay sessions). Aiming left or outwards is NOT Ok, you WILL be pissing on other pitches and yes they do get climbed. Start on the cairn on the raised ledge, directly below the obvious huge arete of 'Naja'. FA: Malcolm Matheson & Steve Monks, 1988 FFA: Malcolm Matheson, 1988 | 75m, 2, 11 | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ||
V8 | ★★★ Spanking the Monkeybars
Low sit-start on the bottom-most jug, then head out past the 'handlebar' and onto the big sloper. Now cut out left via a big move to the slopey pinch, up to the pocket - then back right to the break. Match. | Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) | |||
V8 | ★★★ Rave Heart
One of the easier problems, but quite good. Start: Start on the top right hand side of the cave where the lip almost touches the ground. Bum drag to start. FA: Klem Loskot & crew., 1999 | Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) | |||
V8 | ★★★ The Oyster
| 4m | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ||
29 | ★★ Tyranny
Gordy's finest hour! He never made it to the top - he lowered from the fourth bolt and recorded it anyway, and now it's one of the most popular routes around at this grade. FA: Gordon Poultney, 1998 | 12m, 4 | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ||
V8 | ★★ Micro Machine
| 2m | Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) | ||
29 | ★★★ City of Peace
The City of Peace - aka Nagasaki. 7 years in the making, fires, surgeries, viruses, broken bones, Covid and now it’s free. The spectacular route up the main turret in the middle of the big Orange cave. FA: Matt Brooks Set: Matt Brooks, 2013 | 30m | Flat Rock | ||
V8 | ★★ Gasoline
Start as for Ethanol and up to flakes in the roof. Follow the line of holds right, moving through the roof to the other side and mantle over the nose of the boulder. | 4m | Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) | ||
V8 | ★★★ Beige is All The Rage
Stand start under roof. Using underling pockets to start, move through lip and up the face. FA: Simon Weill | 3m | Halls Gap Area | ||
V8 | ★★ Brama Sutra
Takes the seam from a sit-start right of 'Sick Nutter' and just left of 'The V2 Sit' problem. FA: Julian Saunders | 4m | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ||
V8 | ★★ Gourmet Cat
A gourmet for sure, starts on an obvious rail, finishes on top. two small crimps lead up the center of the face, and a big move to the jug/lip. simple and sweet FA: Klem Loskot, 1999 | 3m | Mt Stapylton Campground | ||
29 | ★★ Fabio's Route
An old Martin Lama project that was cruelly stolen by a visiting Brit (and then named after Martin's flowing locks!). FA: nic sellars | 15m, 6 | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ||
V8 | ★★ Bath Shark
Short and punchy. From a sit start on slopey edge and side pull, follow the prominent seam to a slabby exit. FA: Simon Weill | Halls Gap Area | |||
V8 | ★★ Rick Steel
One of Weill's faves. Sit start on underclings 2m left of the arete. Bust left to side pull, right to undercling pocket, then two very slopey pinches. Exit for Anonymous Arete | Halls Gap Area | |||
V8 | ★★ Bismarck
| Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) | |||
29 R | ★★★ Nomads, Saints and Indians
Roof climbers rave about this one. Steep jugging to a few hard moves at the end. Unfortunately once again the bolt spacing warrants caution. Start down the very back of the left end of the main cave. 7 bolts to rap anchor. There's almost groundfall potential at the 5th and 6th bolts, and also beware the block behind you at the last bolt. FA: Julian Saunders, 2000 | 18m, 7 | Victoria Range | ||
V8 | ★★ Testostrogen
| 3m | Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) | ||
29 | ★★ Like a Koala in His Eucalyptus
Rock isn't as good as the other routes here, but it has a couple interesting moves. FA: Jean-Minh Trinh-Thieu, 1994 | 20m | Victoria Range | ||
29 | ★★★ Chicane
FA: Julian Saunders, 2000 | 20m, 7 | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ||
V8 | Haribo Boulder
Pulling off the ground and doing the first move seems the crux. Starting from a sharp L hand pinch, moving the right hand from the start to a shallow undercling, then L up to a slopeing pocket. intermediates exist before the huge ledge finish. 3ish moves? FA: Fred Nicole, 2000 | 2m | Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) | ||
V8 | ★ Bad Moon Rising
Starts around 4m left of GHMT. Was climbed as a huge dyno. Has also been climbed via some pretty poor intermediate slopers, which most consider to be v6. | 4m | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ||
V8 | ★ Shanghai
Sit start matched on right-facing edges. Move to a gaston then up right to gain a jug and top out. | 3m | Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) | ||
V8 | ★★★ Mind Over Matter | Victoria Range | |||
V8 | ★★ CMD
From the start of The Walker, head right on crimps to finish on Evac. FA: Simon Weill | 3m | Halls Gap Area | ||
V8 | ★ Hot Henry
Climbs the low barrel roof 20m before the line of Old Henry's. Sit-start and using painful pockets, head leftwards diagonally up the wall with ever-stretched out feet. Aim for the slopey gaston and topout shortly thereafter. Rumored to be soft at the grade. | Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) | |||
V8 | ★ Dirty Dancing Direct
The direct finish to the previous problem up a bit of blankness just right of the pocket. | Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) | |||
29 | ★★★ Rage
A 15m variant to the first part of the second pitch of Serpentine. Significantly harder than Serpentine. Pull through initial roof on Serpentine p2 then L via very thin moves to red jug on beautiful sheer hanging red face. Trend back R past 3rd bolt and up subtle arete. When the arete finishes trend L via more hard moves past 5th bolt, to rejoin Serpentine at the horizontal break. FA: Andy Pollitt, 1992 | 35m, 7 | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ||
V8 | ★★★ Spanking the Monkeybars direct
Start as for the original problem, then when you get to the big sloper, make a huge dyno for the break. A variety of methods exist. FA: Klem Loskot, 1999 | Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) | |||
V8 | ★★★ Seam Grip
Start as for Running Man and traverse the horizontal weakness 6m right via hard crimpy moves to big pockets and top out to the right on good holds. | Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) | |||
29 | ★★ Rhythmic Pumper
Roof left of "Sport Crack". FA: Phil Neville, 2011 | 10m, 5 | Mount Zero | ||
V8 | ★★ Rick & Morty
The right arete doesn't look hard at first blush, but closer inspection reveals few holds. From a stand start balance up to a relenting finish. FA: Oliver Miller | 4m | Halls Gap Area | ||
V8 | ★★ Zinc
Stand start from jug then climb up and top out. | 5m | Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) | ||
V8 | ★★★ Da-Lai-Lahmung
Beta dependant. Standing start. Up to poor pocket, then big move up to large pocket. Re-arrange the hands, then out right to the intermediate edge, then big span (or trickery) out to the jug on the arete. Match this and motor up on more jugs to top-out. FA: Toni Lamprecht, 1999 | Mt Stapylton Campground | |||
V8 | ★★★ Happy Daze | Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) | |||
V8 | ★★ Penguin Biceps
| Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | |||
V8 | ★★ Voldemort
| Victoria Range | |||
V8 | ★★★ Rota-Loo
Middle Cave. Traverse from the LH corner (sit-start using underclings). Hard move into the traverse, across and into 'Lonely Heart Club' via a classic drop-down move, finishing as for that problem. | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | |||
29 R | ★★ Red Vinyl
Quite close to Nomads but it still looks great. The usual warning applies about having only a single bolt between you and the ground at times. Start as for Nomads. Break R from Nomads after the 1st bolt, then follow the line of holds 1.5m R of Nomads. It's a shame it finishes in the middle of nowhere at the last bolt a few metres before the lip. There's no anchor - either trust the ring or back-clean it. FA: Simon Atkins, 2000 | 20m | Victoria Range | ||
29 R | ★★ Shattering Reflections On Narcissism
Designed to be climbed as a quite scary sport route, but rumour has it there is the odd trad piece to sanitise it a little. No anchor...clean it how you wish! There is a piker's variant which goes at 27 by traversing a little higher than shown when you're about 15m into the traverse. Line 18a in the topo shows a grade 25 trad variant done by Matt Adams. Start: Start on the boulder on the R edge of the huge cave, on the R side of the 2nd tier. FA: Julian Saunders, 1997 | 25m | Victoria Range | ||
V8 | ★★★ Left El Westwood
FA: Paul Westwood, 2000 | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | |||
V8 | ★★★ Schwiesspatrick
Sit-start right underneath the roof on the big block (handjam). Head directly out to the big edge near the lip, then left across a sloper and good edge to a lefthand sidepull. Dyno up and right for a sloper sidepull in the groove, then slap (or lock) lefthand to the finish jug. | Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) | |||
29 | ★★★ Body Blow (Emu Cave)
Left hand start to minimal tech. | 15m | Victoria Range | ||
V8 | ★ Caffeinator
| Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) | |||
V8 | ★★★ Midnight Cowboy
Climb Rodeo Girl and head left to the arete and up. Bad landing. | 6m | Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) | ||
29 | ★★ Checkmate
Steep wall hidden away from the prying eyes of the public. Start: Starts on hidden ledge up right of Journey. You access this from above, by scrambling down juggy grey wall 20m R from the top of Journey. FA: Garry Phillips, 2007 | 15m, 7 | Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) | ||
29 | ★★★ Pavlov's Dog
Start just left of SC. Amazing wall climb. Set: kp, 2014 | 14 | Victoria Range | ||
29 | ★★ Innocent Fool
A ridiculously thin looking black streak. Start: Start beneath the widest black streak on the wall, about 20m L of the arch, and a few metres R of where the raised ledge peters out. FA: Steve Monks, 1986 | 25m | Summerday Valley | ||
V8 | ★★★ Music for my Fears
FA: Dave Kellerman | 7m | Victoria Range | ||
V8 | ★★ BodyEater
Lip traverse from a jump start into the roof left of Wimmel Friedhoff, and finish up the groove just before the start of this problem. FA: Toni Lamprecht, 1999 | Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) | |||
V8 | ★★★ Desire
Easy Does It into 'Aphrodite' FA: Alison Wong, 2000 | Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) | |||
V8 | ★★ Giddy Up
6m vertical arete up the hill from Sydney Highrise | 6m | Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) | ||
V8 | ★★★ Sweet Sensation
As for 'The Beginnings...' then break right and up via extreme undercling move to the slopey break. FA: Klem Loskot, 2000 | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | |||
29 | ★★★ Angst
Makes Rage an independent line to the top, providing another awesome pitch up the most majestic part of Taipan. Start as for Serpentine pitch 2. Follow Rage for 5 bolts then head left to wide runnel, follow right side of runnel to just below roof, span left across runnel, then up to roof. Follow right side of next runnel to top. Another variant has been bolted (see 41b in topo) which moves left after only 1 or 2 bolts of Rage and up the faint arete to join into Angst. FFA: adam demmert, 2011 | 40m, 9 | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ||
V8 | ★★ Ground Control to Major Tom
Middle Cave FA: Klem Loskot, 1999 | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | |||
V8 | ★★ Mars Attacks
Climbs the blunt prow of the spaceship boulder from a sit start. FA: Oliver Miller | Halls Gap Area | |||
V8 | ★ The Wailing Wall
Located on the face other side of the flake. | Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) | |||
V8 | ★★★ Worm Saloon
This and the next 4 problems are located on the raised ledge of the 'Butthole Surfer' Cave, within view of 'Gay Hip Flexor' down and to the left. FA: Will Detmold, 2000 | Mt Stapylton Campground | |||
V8 | ★★ Winterkirsch
A bum-dragging traverse that looks great but is obviously spoilt by the proximity of the ground (at least you won't hurt yourself!) Traverse from the start of 'Bitch Slap' rightwards all the way to the arete, and topout via a sloper and better lip holds. | Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) | |||
29 | ★★ Chasin The Monkey
Starts as CTS finishes up MP. Classic pumping. FA: Nick Sutter, 2000 | Victoria Range | |||
V8 | ★ Sharik's Mistake
| 6m | Victoria Range | ||
V8 | ★ Overboard
Starts as 'S.O.S.' but climbs straight up. | Mt Stapylton Campground | |||
V8 | ★★★ Pinch and Punch
Sit start from an undercling and a slopey lip. Pull straight up. | Halls Gap Area | |||
29 | ★★★ Beasts of the Southern Wild
Grampians wall climbing at it's best with distinct sections of increasingly sustained and technical climbing. Start at the corner 3m L of Forty is the new 23. Small gear required for the initial corner, and beware the top FH is very difficult to clip, add a long draw. FA: Goshen Watts, 30 Jul 2021 | 27m, 6 | Eastern Mt Difficult Range | ||
29 | ★ The Castlereagh Line
Bolted seam to anchor between Narcotic and Morepox | 20m | Bundaleer Area | ||
V8 | ★ Eyes Wide Shut
Sit start on small edges. | 3m | Halls Gap Area | ||
V8 | Northern Fire
| Victoria Range | |||
29 | ★ Evil D
Linkup el supremo. First 3 bolts on TT, move R acros CTS and LPM, join MP at fifth bolt. Finish up MP. A good one to do when the crag is realy busy! FA: Simon Carter | 25m | Victoria Range | ||
V8 | ★★★ Kant Touch This
| Victoria Range | |||
29 | ★★ Salty ol Buoy
Start just right of 'Abandon Ship' and head directly up the line of bolts. Some bouldery cruxes down low with an easy top out. Grade is a suggestion and may go up or down. Rebolted 2017 FA: Equipped by Steve Monks, 1994 FFA: Byam K, 7 Feb 2021 | 20m, 4 | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ||
V8 | ★ Techno Drone
| 3m | Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) | ||
29 | ★★★ Welcome to Barbados
Large roof doesn't even come close to describing this. Flake (peg) on right side of cave (facing in) to its end. Bulge, then line across ceiling to exit through left-most hole in roof. FA: Malcolm Matheson, James Falla & Paul Hoskins, 1993 | 50m | Victoria Range | ||
V8 | Tim Tam Mantle
Hard sit start on edges to difficult mantle just after start of TTT | 2m | Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) | ||
29 | Monkey Puzzle Direct
Bouldery start into monkey puzzle. FA: Simon Atkins, 1998 | 20m | Victoria Range | ||
29 | ★★★ Rodeo Drive
FA: Josh Grose, 2012 | 20m, 8 | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ||
V8/9 | ★★★ Mind Over Matter Low Start
| Victoria Range | |||
29 | ★★ Tunnel Vision
Extension of 'Tunnel to Caracas' . Climb all of 'Tunnel to Caracas' then continue up the seam above to join into 'Fat and Sassy' just before it takes the left fork in the seam. Finish up the runout top section of 'Fat and Sassy' to the top of the cave. Rebolted / made sane in 2017. This is a great line & deserves repeats! FA: Kent Paterson & early, 2009 | 25m, 11 | Victoria Range | ||
29 | ★★ Kundalini
Starts as for Feather Boa until a few metres below the main roof, then go right through the roof and up the headwall for a few more metres to an anchor in the middle of nowhere where the holds run out. FA: Jai Critchley, 2015 | 40m | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ||
V8 | ★★★ Green Destiny
Sit start on the right side of the hueco and make a big move up to slopey holds and continue up hard moves on bad holds over the bulge left of White Destiny. | Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) | |||
29 | ★★★ Loose Cannon (Emu Cave)
Just another stunner | 15m | Victoria Range | ||
V8 | Spanner
| 3m | Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) | ||
29 | ★ Eye of Yin
Links eye of tiger start to path of Yin finish via a fun looking flake feature & a few new bolts FA: nathan hoette | 25m | Victoria Range | ||
V8 | Balazar
| Victoria Range | |||
V8 | ★ Police Brutality
| Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) | |||
V8 | ★★★ Critical Mass
Central line up the face 4m left of WWE | Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) | |||
V8 | Bonsai
Start left of Kamikaze and head left. | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | |||
29 | ★ Black Books
Climb to ledge. Move left to imposing black wall. Traverse left on knob style holds. Then up menacing headwall with just enough holds. Upgraded to reflect difficulty. | 15m, 6 | Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) | ||
V8 | ★★★ Crisco Love Party
Start on good holds, climb right into hueco and continue up to round pocket. Top out over lip | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | |||
V8 | ★★ Alone on the Hill
| Victoria Range | |||
V8 | ★★ Papparazzi
Sit-start left of Krusti's start, up into underclings - then traverse left. FA: Klem Loskot, 1999 | Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) | |||
V8 | ★★★ Submersion
Start on flat jug, use the seam to stand up and hop for a slopey hold. Topout is tall and mossy but easy. FA: Callum Mather | Halls Gap Area | |||
V8 | ★★★ No Worries
Same start as for Hakuna Matata, though keep traversing right through small slopers and pockets and into Chicken Pride and finish as for that. FA: Louis Godsell | 4m | Victoria Range | ||
V8 | ★★★ Shattered Arete
Sit Start under the arete and punch straight up the nose on hard moves. | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | |||
V8 | ★ Regicide
| Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | |||
V8 | ★ Deathly Hallows
| Victoria Range |