Routes in South-Eastern Grampians

Starts on pockets as for Journey Through the Cossmoss then technical moves L all the way across the cave to finish at the start of LBP.

Mantle madness. Start on dishes and climb up through bloc cave and reach for lip. Grovel and beg your way over the top. FA involved swear words for aid.

Start in cave, on good pocket and jug, move up into the razor sharp crimps and move to slopey nothing's to gain jugs.

A much nicer start that connects into the best bits of 'Reclusive Genius'. Start far left near fire pit on jugs (pockets etc), move into lip on slopes and jugs, traverse R via some hard moves into the jugs on Reclusive Genius and up as per that.

Classic, with a dinky start move. Sit at back of cave in middle of overhang with small edges, press into flake, pull up to crimps and make huge moves to good holds. (Old carrot bolt is out and can't be used for aid)

Same start as "Frisbee Flop", though head left up the seam and up slopers and crimps to the higest point of the boulder, mantle can be trickier than first thought!

Start on with R hand on big side pull and L on undercling. Move up left into scoop and out left avoiding big ledge out left. Gain pockets then mantle up.

Definitely not Flip Flops. Start as for Leather Bound Pound, but instead of heading left to good holds, make huge move directly up to a good rail. From here, work left and finish as per LBP. Add a grade if you're short.

Grand

CLOSED PROJECT. Cleaned and equipped June 2018. Starts about 3m left of Gulun Manja, just right of the huge right leaning chossy corner. Up face then bust a move left through overlap and onto face. Trending left then up break just before arete, curve right then back left at sickle shaped orange corner. Right on steep face then straight up between Moon Safari and Gulun Manja to join their anchor. Has been equipped so as not to take away from Moon Safari's exposure / feel (the bolts are too far right to be clipped from that route).

Pure funk. A feast of underclings and sidepulls with slopey facets for your feet. Sustained with a tricky finish past the last bolt.

Start: Takes the steep west face of Virgin Buttress 15m to the right of 'The Big Easy'

Climb orange streak on excellent rock with some spicy moves around the bulge and above.

Start: Start A few metres right of arête behind tree at orange streak.

Easier to bare than the night before. Start a couple of meters right of RCN. Technical face climbing on excellent rock with an absorbing crux! Joins RCN for its last bolt and anchor.

Classic of yester-year. Climb brittle rock for 5m, step left into a stance, clip an average looking carrot. Up through horizontals, before reaching a good stance out L. Step back right into thin crack and up through orange bulge, then L to ledge.

Looks amazing but the bolts don't inspire confidence.

Start: Left arete of big buttress 10m R of ISTUP

Up steep scoops, across and up to tricky arete then finishing up crack.

Start as for 'Morgana'. After the first bolt step into the peapod then onwards up the slabby wall.

Climb the slabby rib 3m to the right of 'Murinbungo'.

Sustained and thin. Very good.

Sustained and slinky. Great fun, consistently excellent climbing.

Start: Starts up the steep dark grey slab about 5m right of Jardawadjali (just left of the water streak)

Climbs the first 3 bolts of Birthday Barrista, then directly up the technical face past 3 FH's. At this point join the finish of DSE past 4FH's and a RB.

This independent route climbs the stunning steepness of the Barista Buttress. Pumpy! Starts 3m right of the closed project, Birthday Barista. Climb the sustained face past 4 FHs and then move left to a stance in Birthday Barista (U-bolt). Traverse left (FH) with good feet to the arête and establish yourself on the steep prow. Finish past 4 more FHs and one U-bolt.

Bulging line 10 metres left of 'The Liquidator'

Finger-crack in middle of best section of wall, 25 m right of Road Runner.

3 burly moves to a interesting top out. Start with an undercling next to the giant flake and a RH on sloper, slap and squeeze your way up the arete. Great fun. (Boulder is located right on the walking track approx 200 metres into the trail)

Same start as Leather Bound Pound, though head left through sloping jug feature and finish up crack with good holds.

Straight up centre of face, below RB, 2m left of 'Old English'. Take a few RPs. One RB at start, to rap off DRBs on the ledge. Doubled 50m rope reaches the ground.

Starts about 4-5m left of Rainbow Serpent on the left side of an orange scoop.

P1 (35m, 23): Move left past first bolt onto front of the buttress then up past another bolt to easier ground. Up to the roof and follow the line awkwardly around the left edge. Belay in the line at a reasonable ledge.

P2 (30m, 17): The crack up centre of the buttress, as for Morning Glory.

Very shagadelic baby, yeah! Climb Rainbow Serpent up to just under the roof then traverse left. Blast through the inviting looking roof crack then continue slightly left and up slab to join back into Rainbow Serpent at ledge. Clip a few bolts to gain Rainbow Serpent loweroffs. 14 Draws and a single rack should get you to the chains.

Start: Superb clean wall between 'Quinkan' and 'Bunjil'. Seriously low on good gear however.

Straight up the steepest section of this wall through two bulges. Starts at the ake 3m right of Back in Black (and 1m right of Treaty.) Balance across right into the line at the rst FH and then climb directly up the line through two bulges. Nice compression moves on immaculate rock at the top. Once you gain the small ledge system, climb easily up and left to the rst FH on Free Passage and traverse left to the rap anchors above Back in Black P1. (8 bolts)

Technical climbing 1.5m left of Tangent. Climbs the thin face past 5 FHs.

Great quality sustained and interesting. Some steep face climbing. A few small loose bits will probably come off in time, but will clean up with a little traffic to be fantastic.

Start: Starts about 5m right of 'Gulgurn Manja'.

THIS IS STILL A CLOSED PROJECT. Take 16 quickdraws. Steep side pulling underclinging goodness. Sustained and wonderful.

Start: Starts around 30m below and right of "Thor" at a prominent crack just left of the steep blunt orange arete.(about 10-15m down and left of "The Perfect Extraction")

A direct start to NDW. 3 new bolts, then joins NDW at it's 5th bolt.

Good face-climbing. From 1m right of Icy Red (Featherwedge Wall), up (two BRs). Right and up crack until it ends. Face, then bulge (BR). Finish just right of major crack.

Another classic. Sustained. Wall left of Love At First Bight (two BRs). Hard step right to BR on Love at First Bight. Veer up left.

Fun steep sport

Start: Starts 1m left of 'Thunderball' at corner. (This is about 5-7m left of Falkenhorst, which has an unusual reverse "S" marked in the rock at waist height). There are some old bolts at chest height between these routes which was the old bivvy.

Start on the large bloc in the seam, find small feet, and throw or use small crimps to gain large jugs and literally flop (mantle) over to the small ledge. Potential to extend from lower start.

Start just left of History of Screaming on giant undercling, move up on sharp pockets then left via slopey holds, finishing on the ramp.

Start as of "He Wants My Hair Bernard" and continue traversing through rising lip, till you reach good holds.

Start with left on jug in cave, move left into side pull. Compress/squeeze your way up the arete till gaining ledge.

An afterthought, but probably a better start. Sit start low in giant sloping rail, traverse right into featured crimps and up original Leather Bound Pound finish.

Sit start on nice jug feature near fire pit. Move up through crimps and pinches in nice features rock.

Takes prow of Southern Buttress, right of Power Dive.

1. 25m As for Power Dive.

2. 25m(crux) Corner with over-hangs. Right round second-last over-hang, then back left and over final one to ledge.

3. 25m Diagonally right up wall to small, right-facing corner. Up this, then right to prow at foot of white/speckled rock. Step right to exposed stance.

4. 45m Up right side of prow. Easy ground; overhang, steep wall; then smooth face. Now up prow to ledge.

5. 25m To top.

Good fun. Follow cliff past Whiplash for about 30m and Orange Roughy wall is set back on your left. Up right side of steep little wall on good edges.

Like your mum’s new 20 year old boyfriend or the hot young gardener at your granny’s place. Worth all the pain of getting there. Up the steep face directly left of Pot Of Gold. Up steep face past 11 FH to rap station just left of Pot Of Gold.

Super quality first pitch (sport) with trad 16 second pitch of lesser quality but still well worthwhile.

Start: Starts on the left arete of 'Tjuringa' Buttress

1. 32m (21) Up the steep arete that looks like it should be about 5 grades harder! Optional 'Camelot' one or big wires after last bolt.

2. 30m (16) Straight up the arete to natural belay. Move to west side of buttress to rap over 'Rainbow Serpent'

Pete Mills was heard to say "I'd crawl a mile over broken glass to climb that" Paul Geil was heard to say "it's probably the best 21 in the Grampians" many others have muttered it's excellent without such bold statements. Whatever the case it's worth the (admittedly steep, loose & crappy) walk.

Great adventure route!

Rap down 'Carmina Burana'

Start: Start on slab below big crack through roof above. This route needs trad gear

1. 36m (20) Start atop flake against wall - intricate slab climbing past 4 carrot bolts and gear, trending left. Place some good gear and climb left of arête and small corner to clip 5th carrot bolt to finish on ledge and rap anchor. 26/6/2009 Adam and Ross

2. 35m (22) Up tricky slab past carrot bolts to big bombay crack in roof. Climb through roof with great exposure and up continuation of crack. At top of crack head left up diagonal crack to anchor 20/9/2009 Adam and Ross

A tribute to a great friendship, the spirit of generosity and a shared passion for adventure. Consistently engaging, good climbing on good rock. Starts 3m right of (on the big black sloping ledge we’ve dubbed the “squash court”). Delicate moves up the blunt arete to orange headwall, up, up and away - belay on big block just right of Werpil/Totemic Arete’s anchors.Number of bolts TBC?

“When he had created the beautiful sandstone ranges of Gariwerd, Bunjil often took the form of Werpil the Eagle so that he could view his work.” Perfect rock for the area. Start from the upper (LH) end of the slopping terrace (The Squash Court) that’s almost 30m above the ground between the starts of Totemic Arete (P1) and Moon Safari at DBB (25m to ground). Head up-right through wide corner scoop to the bottom of the gently overhanging orange wall. Follow FHs up, finishing at the DBB of Totemic Arete (55m to ground or rap 20m to DBB on The Squash Court).

Warning This route has a Death Block near the top, It should not be climbed till it has been removed

Sustained climbing up the wall left of Dreaming of Rehabilitation's crack (down and right of Thor). Approx 16 (?) fixed hangers lead to belay via a lot of very thin moves. 25m rap from 2 x FH with rings.

Starts below shallow yellow corner around 10m down and left of The Perfect Extraction. Up corner until you can traverse left on good holds. Up wall past big flake to some very thin moves, but step left to great sidepulls and around (left) then right to ledge and rap station.Or you can go direct at approx 23. *Note Josef plans to bolt a straighter finish removing the dog leg to the right at the end which may increase the length a bit.

A beaut!

Start: Starts on the front face of the un-named buttress (right of REM and left of Red chilli nights)

Sustained, with great moves. The next line up the ramp left of Gilla. Saunter out right so that a traverse can be made back left into line. Up.

Diagonal left of middle of Recess Wall (next cliff left of Cream Wall), offering superb Mount Rosea-style climbing. Slab (BR) to horizontal break, then line through two bulges (two PRs). Corner, then straight up.

Line 5m left of hanging gully. One BR.

Very thin and sustained face climbing protected only by small wires. Climb slabby black wall just right of Stuffed Kiwi by vague, left facing corner-seam at half-height (about a third of the way along from left end of this wall). Move a little right to finish.

then head left up attractive crack

Start: Complete P1 of \\

1. -m (-) As per 'Sweet Sixteen'

2. 30m (22) Straight up, then traverse right into left facing corner. Traverse led (hard) on lip of overhang to right facing corner. Up this then step right to ledge

3. 50m (15) Up steep face on good holds, easing (this pitch is prominent from the ground).

4. 10m (-) Up easily

A dramatic line and an atmospheric climb which is best completed by the P3 variant. The 2nd pitch was originally all aid.

Start: Initalled corner 9m R of FB

1. 18m (15) Corner, over overhang and up crack to sentry box.

2. 13m (22) Up corner and flakes moving L to a small stance under roof.

3. 8m (15) Up crack then step R to sloping ledge. Up to small terrace. [Alternately go straight up without moving R for 15m at grade 18 Peter and Kevin Lindorff 1978]

4. 8m (-) Chimney on L

A long-hidden gem-one of the best on the cliff. Weakness in recessed face left of The Funeral Pyre.

1. 25m (crux) Step up right to belay on small ledge on The Funeral Pyre (after final, short finger-crack).

2. 35m (21) Up and left 3m, then traverse left to slight bulge and crack. Up with increasing ease.

Cracks 3m R of CTWN

Start on a buttress 8 metres right of 'Sioux',2 metres right of a corner.

1. 40m (22) Up buttress for 15m, then left to right facing corner capped by big roof. Up corner, then step left and layback through roof to large, bushy ledge.

2. 25m (15) Step left and take line right of buttress through small overhang.

Superseeded by Intermission.

Gymnastic climbing on good rock.

Start: 3m R of BT. Finger crack and seams up the red buttress between the chimney on the L and the chimney of Buccaneer. Above the crux climb L arete to top of buttress. Descend as for BT from abseil tree.

A harder and better version of AatS

Start: As for AatS but follow L seam all the way.

A climb of considerable quality considering its location. The leader used a rest 4m below the belay, eliminated by the second. There is an abseil anchor on the ledge. This is also a better place to finish Harassed Tweed. Start at Harassed Tweed. Move up and left past a fixed wire to a rest, then step back right and continue straight up to belay ledge.

While the first pitch is worthwhile, the second pitch offers consistently excellent climbing right on the arete which is beautiful compact grey stone.

Start: on the right side of 'Tjuringa' Buttress below orange roof.

1. 32m (20) steep technical finger crack climbing up to and right of orange roof to steep powerful bridging, then up left past flake to ledge. Up wall past more bolts tending left after about 15m to belay on ledge. Take a bunch of wires, (BD) cams #0.3 to #.75, one #2 and lots of (about 18) quickdraws.

2. 30m (22) swing up onto left side of arete and up delicate grey wall to orange steepness. Powerful thin moves lead to more moderate but delicate and super enjoyable arete that seems never to finish! Generally regarded as 3 stars by everyone who's done it so far. James McIntosh commented "it's the best arete in the Grampians".

pitch 2 left hand variant. From belay, head up to third bolt. Traverse up and left to morning glory's overlap, through this and up fantastic vertical crack & face trending R to join P2 at the belay. Great climbing, fantastic rock. ~grade 18.

The line of fixed hangers just left of Tchingal's curse. A thin start (crux) leads to a long and sustained outing on excellent rock. Finish at the anchor (1 U-bolt and 1 FH) above the final ledge.

A great outing with varied styles, solid rock and good bolting. Starts as for song line, straight up at first bolt (Songline traversed right here). Thin face Climbing eventuatleads to good rest. Delicate side pulls then powerful moves through steep bulge and tricky mantle. Up corner then move left and up to rap station. 27m abseil.

Starts about 5m up and left of Namarron at a small rock ledge with a tree for some belay shade. A slabby start leads to sustained steepness, eventually reaching a large ledge, and then up and right from there is a wild and airy finish. Note it's in the shade after about 3pm. 45m rap from rings. Descent possible with a single 60m rope by rapelling to the Namarron anchors, or continuing up (easy scramble) to the ledge above, and rappelling from the anchors there down to the Orb Weaver anchors.

When it's hot hot hot! Follow 13 FHs through a couple of bulges to DBB. Stick clip the first bolt if you're not comfortable soloing the ramp.

Sustained and varied climbing. Well worthwhile as it but once all the loose rock is removed will be even better.

The route name means "Hands of Young People"

Start: Starts about 10m right of right leading corner (about 20m left of the big gully) at a grey/black slab.

Start as for Birthday Barrista and continue up the crack from the 2nd bolt until it's possible to step right to the anchor above that route at about 26m. Take a full trad rack.

A sustained 21, with thoughtful moves and a quite a few spaced bolts. 1) 40m 21 (12 bolts) As for Short Memory head up and left where it heads right to the crack (following grey fixed hangers). Confronting moves lead up to the crux, which gains the crack above. Nice climbing up the crack to a belay on the left. 2) 20m (six bolts) from belay step right and up through a tricky corner. Snake and weave up and around overlaps and bulges to the top anchor.

To the right of and around the corner from Psychedelic Zucchini, directly under the rappel from that climb. Starts to the right of the first bolt. Reach left to clip first bolt, then up through difficult terrain on thin, angled crimps and poor feet (crux). Eases once the 3rd bolt is reached. Continue straight up the line of bolts, finishing through a series of impressive underclings. Rappel anchor on back wall of ledge above.

Starting just left of a decent ledge about 30m uphill from Short Memory. 10 FH plus rap station. Slabby technical thin start leads to novelty detatched rock where a hands free rest is possible. Exposed steep final moves get the heart racing. Careful of lots of loose rock on the ledge left of the belay. 10 x FH

CLOSED PROJECT! The first of Ariel's many new routes, this one has a very thin, heartbreaker finish (might be 22/23?). Up the black wall between Maranjarri track and Proeblem solving over 0.05, left at the end sharing the last bolt to finish at the anchor of Muranjarri Track.

Good climbing, but some loose rock detracts! Has been retrobolted with the permission of the first ascentionist (including adding it's own new rap station).

Start: Starts just around left of the front of the buttress (about 10m uphill from "The Stolen Generation")

Tricky Power Start will see more enjoyable climbing. Follow the bolts and make the traverse left before the top.

Start: Start under the roof moving right with the bolts.

Good climbing on beautiful compact rock up a good line.

Start: tart perhaps 3 or 4m (?) left of 'Death Threat' at short corner capped by small roof with cracks on the left and right.

1. 25m (21) Climb the short open book corner for about 4m then up right. Awkwardly up a few moves to gain and negotiate the steep crack through the bulge and weird hands off rest. Continue up the closed corner above for a few meters then move left and up more easily to belay on ledge (the crack is both well protected and climbs very well).

2. 14m (18) Take the very thin seam (not the bigger crack that 'Death Threat' finishes up to the right) and traverse left below tiny roof. Up steep juggy arete to top.

Same start as 'Dreamscape' but where it steps left at ledge continue straight up, finishing up big crack as for 'Death Threat'. Probably worth a star if 'Dreamscape' gets one.

Up broken ground 4m right of Show No Mercy and up V-crack.

For Phil McMillan. Up to and through orange roof 3m left of Good Question. Up to finish up right crack.

Sustained and committing. Up middle of face of last pinnacle below You Shook Me. Right round bulge to ledge. Middle of wall above.