Routes in Victoria Range

Line in middle of wall, right of Revolver. Stick clip first bolt. Start off rock step, Thin, technical start past first bolt (crux). Up right to undercling then straight up wall to central lower off.

Two pitches on left side of orange buttress. Pretty much the Pilot Error of the Gramps (i.e. novelty photo route).

Starts as per PT moving right at undercling flake. Moves into PD for 10m then weaves up incredible thin face.

The far right. Starts on a slab.

Start just left of SC. Amazing wall climb.

Fab warm up. Starts up crack system.

Aka. the cheap Chinese petrol drill route…Straight up into, and through, the main scoop past 4 FH to anchors.

...of the production line. Starts as LP then busts left up prow

Up crack to cool arete. The crux is cryptic.

Starts as per PFOD then joins CL for a couple of bolts. Takes traverse line a few meters south of CL to same anchor

Crazy jump to start or 26 if you batman to first jug. Awesome either way.

Straight up the crack. Enjoy the great water polished rock.

Bolted Water streaks on right side of fixed lines. Shared start to other routes.

Straight from the hermits Baha’i Faith Prayer book. Up the middle orange streak past 4 FH to anchors.

Left of Cruising. Sit start at good flake and dyno to jugs, mantle up and commit to the thin and exciting top out. May need a brush up high.

Trad? WTF? Medium cams and wires and a couple of slings. Start below large flaky scoops. Up past 3 FH, trending left to stay on the good rock, then up black groove on trad to anchors.

Starts as per OF. Climb steep roof to large horizontal. Instead of climbing thin seam/arete move right onto streaked grey wall.

Up on upper tier. Through water streak on beautiful orange face. Has chain on third bolt.

Up deceptively overhung wall, starting just right of the black water streak. Easy but committing to the first bolt, so best to stick clip.

Not memorable at all. Sit start on slopey rail and reach to the top.

A lesson in crimps, and all bullet rock! Start on arete with jug with L hand and R on gaston incut, move right through two sets of sharp crimpers and make large move to slopey jug, and top out.

Start on low flat jug, move through crimps and large side pull to jugs and drop off.

A fantastic outing up a good line with good gear and pretty good quality rock (for a new route!). Starts on the lower side of the buttress, on the RHS at a steep crack. Up this and into the corner where you will be rewarded with lots of fun, interesting, sustained bridging for the grade with good gear. Pitch at the ledge (about 25m) or continue on to the top.

Located at GPS points S37 11.365 E142 16.268 @ 510m above sea level.

Sport route up smooth Arapiles like bulges. Start 5m left of Traitors gate at ferny seam, up past 3 FH to head left to corner then up past 2 more FH to lower off.

Start as for 'Below Moss' and traverse left along slopey rail till at the jug for 'A Tale of Two Wedgies' and top out.

Committing high ball with the crux high up! Start on jugged arete, move left into thin seamy crimps and make a committing move to a horn and top out with jugs.

Sport route up smooth Arapiles like bulges. Start 5m left of Traitors gate at ferny seam, up past 3 FH to head left to corner then up past 2 more FH to lower off.

4 meters R of A Tale of Two Wedgies. Start on small and sharp crimps, make big move to slopey jug, head up through crimp and commit to the mantle.

Arete / face downhill from Bikini Bootcamp. Start up RH side of slabby grey rib (as for Gimli) to base of undercut arete, up arete / wall past 3 x FH to lower off

Start 5m Right of Bolted Arete. Commiting moves up flake to mossy ledge, straight up to jugs.

Arete right of Kick in the nuts, up crack to slopy topout

50m uphill from Lotus Flower Tower Revisited. Sport route up steep arete, 3 rings to double ring lower off, Closed Project.

Sport route with Hard first move. Start 5m left of Mothers Day project off Ledge. Mantle onto small ledge then up arete trending right, over small roof and up to Double bolt lower off.

Sport route with Hard first move. Start 5m left of Mothers Day project off Ledge. Mantle onto small ledge then up arete trending right, over small roof and up to Double bolt lower off.

Crouch start on lowest part of lip near cliffline. Rising traverse on lip all the way to the highest point meeting with J.S Memorial Choss

Sit start, traverse left into the the crack and up,traverse left to big ledge.

Sit start and traverse into the crack and finish as same line as Mr Blobby Right

Start on low jug move to slopey rail and move left to jugs.

Start matched on lowest part of undercling, move up too small pocket/pinch on undercling and make big move left to jugs and top out.

Start as for Pride Cometh... but head straight up

Stand Start on lowest part of undercling and head right via big move and top out.

Sit start on side pull and up into scoop, traverse left and press into juggy flake and top out.

Climb up Encorder Ici to the 4th bolt to jugs over rooflet. Make a big move to slot past bolt and continue rightwards to jugs and lower offs on Mothers Day project.

On far left of main wall, around corner find left arête of gully. Straight up face to seam and lay backs over lip to ledge with two lower offs.

Climb up Encorder Ici to the 4th bolt to jugs over rooflet. Make a big move to slot past bolt and continue rightwards to jugs and lower offs on Mothers Day project.

Start on big blocky jug, move up and right to finish as for 'Tiger Tooth'

This problem is contrived Start as for 'Climbing the Knuckles' but moving across left into the under clings, working your way into the start of 'Jailbreak' and to finish up that problem.

Sit Start on blocky side pull, work your way up and left to finish on the break with the others

Down and right of the Possum Rocks cave, there is a great 4-5m high pocketed boulder. This is the left line.

This is the right line. Scary ending.

Brilliant line of edges. Hidden away under a boulder leaning against the wall about 300m east of possume rocks cave.

Top up through the choss or drop from the jug for a more pleasant outing.

Start with left hand on jug and right on flat gaston, engage those shoulders to then climb straight up on small holds.

Start matched high in slopey seam, climb left into the crack and finish on the horn jug.

Start on two opposing jugs, make large move up to some crimps, then right to top out up seam.

Start as for The Land that Time Forgot.

1. 20m (23) As for TLTTF up to and powerfully over flake, then head up and right to obvious corner and over roof to belay at chains.

2. 20m (21) Head straight up the wall on fantastic rock with good gear. Great wall climbing in a great position. Rap off

Start with a left hand palm down and a right crimp, get straight up to those under clings and finish at the break higher up

Please help locate me. So far indications suggest Grampians, maybe Buandik area. This is part of an ongoing effort to document the hardest boulders currently defined in the world.

Starts as per TB then goes right after rootlet across slab and up steep wall via a hard crux. May be easier than graded

Starts few meters right of Fratin Brothers off the block. Up via thin side pulls.

Start as for 'Low Land' and once hitting the jug head straight up via a big move on crimps

Stand start with left hand on small crimp and right on slope rail. Make tricky move to a sharp crimp and then continue up via slopers.

Stand start with left hand on small crimp and right on slope rail. Make tricky move to a sharp crimp and then continue up via slopers.

Start on the blocky jug under boulder, grab crimp and make a big move right and mantle to finish.

Start as for 'Dirt Merchant' but heading out right instead to mantle up the face.

Stick clip first bolt. Undercut start (as for Silencer and 3 minute Rule), up RH short corner for a few moves, then out left on small holds along horizontal break between 3rd and 4th bolt, hard move up to short right leaning flake (crux). Up wall trending left at top to join Me and My Gun for last bolt and lower off. Best to use long draws for third and fourth bolts.

Sit start directly below pocketed wall, climb straight up through pockets to tallest part of boulder.

Start on a sidepull and gaston, climb straight up.

Start matched on big bulb undercling, work your way to the end of the arete then mantle.

Great adventure climbing. Climbs the big grey wall (Jimmy John's Wall) across the Eureka gully from Clean Cut Walls and directly below Eureka. From the Eureka gully, step right and up across a short ramp (5 meters), then straight up for 50 meters across low angled, highly feature and highly fun rock! Climb through the middle of the upper headwall (10 meters) via a short left facing corner and then up and right through the steep face to the top of the wall. The climb can be done in one 70 meter pitch, but it may be preferable to belay in the middle of the low angled wall as the upper headwall is steap and gear can be difficult to place. Descend by walking straight back to the Eureka Wall, which will place you at the bottom of Veggie Maths.

Start as for 'Simba's Pride' after getting to the jug at half way bust out left via thin seam and sharp pocket. Finish as for Low Land Direct.

Good warm up. Undercut start (as for Pump Action and Silencer), up short RH corner to horizontal break, up wall on thin holds (crux) to jugs and lower off just left of arete

Desperate sloper mantle problem. Sit start on low buldge, move into sloper rail and press up.

Stand start to the right of a large dirt pile (ants nest) . Head right to finish up Cruising.

Sit start to the right of Stormy Weather. Straight up on jugs to tricky mantle.

Sit Start on left arete of boulder. Head out arete and up tall face. Little airy topping out.

50m before Therapy boulder right of the track, sit start then mantle onto slab.

2m right of LBL,

1. 30m 23. Up flake over bulge past bolt, trending left through next bulges past fixed pin to sloping belay ledge.

2. 10m 22 Straight up past bolt and continue up on horizontal breaks to absail chain. Rap off on a 70m just

Start off boulder at left end of wall. Up wall on great jugs to base of head wall where holds become significantly smaller (crux)! Up to lower off on very top of wall.

Start: Start as for AP

1. 22 - 30m Climb Archimedes' Principle to belay of first pitch then continue along break to Pythagoras' Theorem. Either belay in corner or climb down to Pythagoras' Theorem first pitch ledge. 1 bolt

2. 27 - 50m Continue along obvious traverse line from Pythagoras' Theorem with mostly good holds but poor feet, all the way out to join Vegie Maths at the head wall (2nd last bolt of that route) and follow this to the top. 7 bolts

Adam Demmert and John Schmit climbed pitch 1 in 2009. The Adam and Malcolm did the second in 2014

4m Left of Grey Matter. Straight up to the top. First move is the crux. The rest of the climb is grade 12 up fragile featured wall. Pull over the right side of the red overhang.

A shameless linkup but worthy none the less! Start up middle path and continue as per the flying duck. Do the crux dyno of the duck and then immediately head left into a rest before finishing at the path of yin anchors.

A shameless linkup but worthy none the less! Start up middle path and continue as per the flying duck. Do the crux dyno of the duck and then immediately head left into a rest before finishing at the path of yin anchors.

Left-hand bolted line. Up small scoop past 2 FH. When it ends, trend desperately up and left to 3rd FH, then slightly left before blasting straight up unlikely wall past 4th FH to anchors.

Starts as RRH then moves left at obvious horizontal

The bolted corner.

Start underneath the right end of the ledge (to the right of the main sandy cave). Climb up past a bolt, potter carefully left along the ledge, and then blast straight up past 4 more bolts to the anchors, enjoying the jugs while they last…

Start in the same spot. Once on the ledge continue straight up the juggy groove before launching up the orange wall to shared anchors.

Fantastic climbing on an outrageous feature. Batman to 4th bolt.

Start up the same juggy groove, but after the second bolt bust out rightwards past a third to the anchors above the ledge.

Start to the left of the black water streak and climb straight up past 4 FH to anchors.

Starts as per RRH then move right across pocketed face.

Left side of grey face. Bouldery at start. Drop a grade or two if you bridge up the tree.

Start a few metres further right. Stick clip the first bolt. Climb from the left to giant dinner plate jug, then up wall above to ledge. After a breather, launch up the steep juggy headwall to anchors.

Tough start (especially for shorties) leads to sustained climbing past 3 bolts to ledge and shared anchors.

Maybe 25? Undercut start as for Pump Action and 3 Minute Rule, up left leading shallow corner to undercling traverse (crux) and into Me and My Gun, up this to lower off. Use long draws on second and third bolts and first bolt of Me and My Gun (at end of traverse)

Tough boulderery start of the cairn. Follow the dyke feature to anchor. Thin, technical and sustained.

Most straight-forward way up the huge boulder opposite the Tower's main wall. Start up crack L of the mossy scoop, and finish left of massive roof-block.

A surprisingly good route on mostly clean diagonal line on the L wall (looking up) of the main descent gully. About halfway up - locate large left leading diagonal lines. Climb takes the thin face that leads into main diagonal. Obvious crack on the L could be an easier alternate to the somewhat desperate first pitch.

1. 20m 21, Tricky start, 2m R of diagonal corner/crack. Climb into the line from the R, then straight up pumpy wall into the wide left leading crack.

2. 25m 17, Nice pitch that is better and easier than appearances would suggest. Continues along the diagonal under roof, until easy wall leads to top. Easy scramble down the back.

There are two obvious corner cracks leading from the ledge that is accessed from the gully, this is the left-hand one.

1. 20m (17). Start 5 metres from the left-hand end of the ledge. Tricky start (crux) to gain corner crack which is followed to exit left and belay on ledge.

2. 30m (17). Tricky move through roof above, up juggy face to short black corner then up to big grassy ledge. To descend scramble up and rightwards then step down to ledge and find fixed knotted rope in deep crack (2x60m ropes to ledge.)

There are two obvious corner cracks leading from the ledge, this is the right-hand one.

1. 20m (15). Up corner then step left onto juggy face, up to rooflet step right onto airy plate and continue up to ledge belay.

2. 30m (18). Trend left up juggy face towards the flake in the roof above. At roof beware loose blocks instead climb through roof a metre right from obvious flake then blast up juggy wall to ledge. Scramble right to ledge with knotted rope in deep crack (2x60m rope rap to ledge).