Routes in Victoria Range

Extension of A Bolt Too Far

Start as for 'Half Baked' but head slightly left and up; be aware of the large gum behind you.

On the east face in the chasm proper. Starts from large suspended chock-stone bridge. Three FH's up rounded rib leads to jug. Traverse right along break past large wire placement and FH then head straight up (FH) to chain. Route was originally climbed direct from the last FH instead of traversing off to the right on 'cheat' jugs.

Start up 'The Honeymoon is Over' then clip a bolt way out R. Swing R to the nose and up the wall past a PR.

Hard moves past BR on Arete.

Sit start on the low jugs on the left lip of the cave. Move into the line of Mr. Self-Destruct. Fun heel hooking and jugging.

Direct finish to malcolms project. Look for the anchor!

A great novelty warm-up. The route climbs the 'backbone' scoopy arete of the uphill side of the pillar past four FH's. Getting past the ever growing tree could be the crux! Rap off double rings.

Slab climbing in the Grampians? The right hand side line past one UB and four FHs. Pass 1st FH on the right to finish up the arête to a double bolt lower off.

Starting on the ledge, climb the right hand wall (on the detached block). Clip the RB on the main wall and make an exciting traverse left to gain the vertical seam. Arrange good wires and commit to a tough run out crux sequence. Place a green and yellow alien before reaching jugs as crack widens to the top. Rap from double bolts.

Start a few metres right of Flemish Vanilla, through the steep terrain to a broken ledge. Balancy moves gain the next horizontal, then continue up the seam above on positive edges. Step left onto a ledge after 25m and rap off here (alternatively complete "a long mountaineering pitch to the top. Bring your crampons" - Mentz/Tempest 2001).

Start: Start at undercut wall 3 metres left of prominent undercut corner.

Start at orange pocketed rock and climb a left veering line. Joins iron arms at 3rd FH. Link into top pitch of iron arms for best value...

Right of the chimney gully is a left-right rising traverse below an overhang. Currently has a couple of old cams in it. Probably needs more bolts.

Head straight up the obvious flakes to a hard and high finish.

The grassy corner at the right end of the wall. If you value ankles over a purist ethic perhaps clip the first bolt on LIB. DBB at top.

Start matched on slopey rail, make tricky move to flat ledge and top out. A true one move wonder.

Start on rail and move left to slopers, finishing on a jug pinch in juggy crack.

Bouldery prow following seam, pockets and interesting slots. Same start as afterlife.

Sit start for eye candy.

follow crack on R side of arete until it ends at horizontal. A few moves up the face takes you to crack and arete to top.

Sit start on slopey rail 1 metre L of Slip and Slide, and move up through slopers and pinches to jugs and top out.

Start in an alcove behind a tree at the very lower left corner of Jimmy John's. Climb up and right toward the arete, belaying in the low angle rock. Continue toward the arete and over a small roof, into the nose hairs, belaying on the arete after passing the steep section above the roof. Continue up the arete to the top of Jimmy John's.

Aim for the pockets and up.

Sit start then up edges to vague traverse line then traverse left across edges and slopes to left hand topout

Excellent rock with intricate pro. Take lots of RPs! On wall right of Leveret, left of off-width corner. Start at small, crystal-encrusted, pocketed ledge about 1.5 metres left of off-width corner. Up through low bulge to thin seam/crack. Continue more or less straight up slabby wall following seam/crack system. On past right end of rubbly ledge onto juggy crack up small buttress to top. No FA details given (Argus, May 2004)

Immediately opposite 'Grey Slab'. Sit start in the hole, then up via the flake.

Off-width corner/crack 5m L of "Private Parts". Take several #5 cams

Good line, pity about the poor rock quality and fiddly/crap protection. Not worth a star in my opinion.

Start: About 4-5m right up the arete (start off the big boulder to it's right).

Up the arete then left to finish up "Do You Mind If I Smoke?" and rap off at the ledge.

Obvious R leading jam crack.

A good climb. Start about 3 metres right of the arete, below a large step in the roof. Go straight up the slab into the bottomless corner. Move across the right wall onto the upper slab and finish straight up.

Start up 'Smoky and the Banditos' until 4th RB then go left to fixed hangers on arete.

Great pocketed corner line. Accessed via fixed rope.

In cave underneath main prow. Walk 100m left from poison bait cave on scree. Outrageous line through guts of cave with a crazy crux.

Just right of Heavy Metals. Start left hand on good crimp just above the start jug of Heavy Metals and right hand on undercling edge. Compression moves through the roof and top out over the bulge. Possibly v7.

Up the wall to diagonal ramp under the impressive headwall. Right along ramp then up chimney.

Start: About 50 metres left of "Carousel" the track swings up under an east-facing wall. Scramble up to the left end.

A very height dependent grade and a killer line right up the centre of the main wall. Starts up ringbolts just right of terror of sea.

The stepped corner that trends slightly left will appeal to all tradsters. Don't let the moss put you off.

At the back of this pinnacle there is an unfinished bolted

project (3 FHs).

Do not climb this route as it still needs more bolts.