Routes in Victoria Range

Not on Espanol Pinnacle itself, but nearby. Right facing flake crack in gully 100m below the North Pinnacle.

Needs a 60m rope!!!!!

A novelty traverse. Start as for Gollum Direct, though move right till under block and mantle over top.

Start on 'Hysteria Lane' and traverse across to 'Widow of Opportunity'

Start crouched with feet on sloping ledge and hands on two juggy crimps. Move left across juggy break and up the vertical rail above. Sit start can also be done, but it’s much harder (or for an easier sit start variation - start as for Down Boy).

On the ledge directly behind Conflict of Interest. Stick clip first bolt, bridge tree for 1 metre until gaining good holds in seam. Move up via thin incuts to 2nd bolt, tricky traverse left to good holds and up to double ring lower offs.

Line of old dodgy eye bolts up striking flake feature on detached block. Probably unclimbed, very hard at the top. Needs rebolting, new anchor bolts in place but no hangers.

Steepo left leading cave route on far left side of crag. Sport all the way.

On the north west corner of the pinnacle is an easy angled left facing orange corner (about 10m right of Struck Twice). Up this to meet with top of pine tree. Peer around the corner to find horizontal rising crack with occasional tufts of grass. Traverse desperately along this with nigh all footholds to end up perched on sharp rest flake. Finish up easy jugs to top.

Beaut moves in an excellent position on good rock. Takes the sweeping arête / pillar in centre of wall, finishing at double rings. 3 BR's.

Linkup el supremo. First 3 bolts on TT, move R acros CTS and LPM, join MP at fifth bolt. Finish up MP.

A good one to do when the crag is realy busy!

One of the better warm-ups at the crag. Starts 20m right of RRH just right of ugly black groove. Step across vast chasm onto wall (FH) and up right side of groove on big jugs past two more FHs and then easy juggy crack finish. Rap anchor

Start where a large block almost touches the roofline. Continue up until level with the burnt banksia.

To descend, traverse L to the rap anchor above 'Foo Foo's Fourby'.

Excellent route. Double ropes essential.

Start: Start just left of bivvy cave.

Up 'Flashman' to its first bolt, then follow the large flake feature skywards, past the occasional hollow block, to a piton and a FH. Belay off a tree at the top.

The rounded arete just R of Floating Cloud

Novelty. Jump start into slopey jug, top out via seam. Add a direct start from low seam if you can, will be tricky.

Starts 4m right of Here Comes The Storm. Very bouldery start leads to excellent sustained route with funky sequences. DRB lower-off.

CLOSED PROJECT Starts on left arete, diagonal rising traverse finishing at Pirate Life lower off

Good little play thing. Cherry Tree to the big horizontal. Will be a good extension up the seam between cherry tree and the 22 route.

Start: First line on the left as the cliff is reached.

Climb the left arête to chains. Can be climbed sport, or with an optional medium cam to eliminate the runout to the last bolt.

Up to a horn-like jug and a good slot 3 metres right of Jeff. Up again, then step right into crack until it finishes. Left and up pleasant wall to eventually join Manufacturing Consent near the top.

Immaculate rock and a very tough crux if you're short. Central line about 10m right of Popeyed. Over rooflet (BR) and up juggy wall (BR) to horizontal break and rooflet. Up and left past BR and two FHs to mantle onto ledge. Run it out up white marble pockets past BR to belay anchor in cave.

Since Michael O’Reilly snapped the crux hold off, this route is one or two grades harder.

Start 4m left of Incarceration at the yellow streak. Climb the easy flake and clip the bolt. Rock up with difficulty, using the small gaston, and climb up to the fingerlocks and technical layback. Go into the nice jams and up to the jugs. Finish easily up the wide trench to the DBB.

Classy crack climbing, pretty solid at the grade. Up obvious line in the middle of the wall above the creek.

Starts in chasm.

Easy climbing leads to a couple of hard moves on slopey holds.

For another good warm up - go right at second last bolt to lower off above Revolver.

Climb the stegasaurus dishes

Very bouldery start leads to obvious pocket line. In cave.

Starts a few meters right of Poison Bait. Great athletic roof climbing.

Follow chimney of Addicted to Placebo, then step right and up through overhanging crack.

Pumpy with some novelty moves. Located 10m right of Conflict Of Interest in shaded chasm. Bouldery steep short corner (stickclip RB) to ledge. Step right then up left facing flake system (three RBs) to rap chain. Last bolt was added after first ascent.

Sit start on left of roof. Traverse left to right to finish on jug.

The left line in the cave. Cruxy flake on the lower wall, then juggy roof to finish. 5 RBs. Grade is skeptical as Neil thought it was much harder than 'Poison Bait'.

The overhanging wall

A clever link up that takes in the best parts of two great routes. Endurance climbing on great rock.

Start as for Careful With That Axe Liam.

A single rope will suffice if you take a few 60cm draws. Climb to the 4th FH, then traverse right 5m past FH to join Curiosity. Continue up past 2 more FHs to break. Back left for 2m then finish up past 3FHs as for Curiosity.

The only bolted line in this cave.

Classic Power Route.

Sit start on low left arete and up rising traverse to top out.

Another Galleon classic is OPEN FOR BUSINESS!! Start half way along rock fin (couple of metres left of Splinter) straight up past first three bolts, then boulder out right (crux) then up and left to jug, then another cruxy move to last bolt then mega jugs! Enjoy

Start as for Carnivore and go straight up using only the crack.

Start as for round the twist. Climb upwards over bulges trending right to left end of roof. Traverse right on horizontals over lip of roof to short crack. Up to overlap and right to arete. Wrap off, bring tat.

Watch out for those ants.

Starts at Night Owl Theatre. A bit of jamming to gain the prow which takes you to the horizontal, then up the classy orange face above. From the 5th bolt, trend left to gain access to hollow jugs, before moving back right.

Climb WP until it eases off then traverse R and up a few moves to join Flashman at its 2nd corrot bolt.

This is a much better way to climb both WP and FM.

Link Krankandangle into Path of Yin via low bolt.

A tricky crux on sensational turtle shell rock. The route begins at the left hand end of the Trench. Follow three FH to a chain anchor. A #2 Rock will protect the start, or stick-clip the first bolt.

Linkup of a more petite fashion.

No prizes for guessing which routes...

Left leaning overhung crackline about 5m right of 'Super Mario Bros'. Neil took a groundfall attempting the first ascent ground up. Two very hard cruxes on polished perfect rock. A trad classic for those with the skills. Chain lower off.

Same start as for 'Somewhere' , but step L into a shallow corner under the overhang, then up until you are level with the burnt banksia.

Two pitches of outragous steep and interesting climbing, with a very thin and reachy crux pitch. One of the last major walls in the 'Grampians' to be climbed? Originally equipped by Jono Schmidt and Neil mid 2007, it took five months before Neil could convince anyone else to go in to try it! This route could be led in one giant pitch, but you would need more than 25 quickdraws and a double sized rack. The climb stays mostly dry even in torrential rain - as tested on the first ascent!

Start: Starts on the far left of the Crimson Tower, on sloping rock platforms. Bring a large cam to belay from.

1. 30m (25) Step right (FH) and across crimpy slab and into shallow corner. Up this on small wires/cams to rooflet and juggy grey wall. Up reachy flake to big heuco, then crux crimpy face above to belay in large horizontal slot. For the hanging belay anchors use RB above, and medium cams to the left. Six bolts in total on this pitch.

2. 30m (24) Stunning location. Out roof and up exposed headwall past 4 ringbolts to base of left facing corner. Up this on trad then step right, to final difficult grey wall. Rap off with DOUBLE 60m ropes. 50m ropes will NOT reach the ground.