Wilyabrup Guide

Sit start on the short face on the right wall. Up and trending left to finish on the obvious crack.

Sit start. Stand on the obvious ledge then straight up with vertical cracks.

Sit start. Up vertical crack and then top out trending right.

Sit start. Up trending left and avoiding the vertical right crack. Lots of different betas. https://youtu.be/cZPA0ZbEgTE?t=9

Starts under the big hanging rock, up and leftish.

Sit start under the obvious slopey block with flat ledge. Then trend right under the block with underclings.

Sit start. Head straight up through the slopey block with rad moves avoiding escaping left or right. https://youtu.be/cZPA0ZbEgTE?t=84

Sit start, up and from the slopey block trend left with crimps.

Sit start then up compressing the two parallel cracks and then through slopers. A bit contrived but mega rad. https://youtu.be/cZPA0ZbEgTE?t=167

Link up into 'The Slicer' or 'The All Time Super Duper V4' is also rad!

Up finger crack on the left.

Sit start. Straight up

Steep start. Mantles and fingerlocks with the thin crack then through the small roof.

Up short face on the right wall of the gully then up the left facing corner crack.

Up the left hand end of the wave-washed wall just north of Lost Buttress. Good horizontal breaks followed by small positive holds lead up the often wet wall.

Start low down at the base of the easy arête at the far left end of the crag. Amble up the arête to reach to ledge, then ape up the hanging arête.

Pleasant moves up the bottom wall, clip the BR followed by tricky moves to get established on the head wall.

Weave your way up the lower wall heading left, right or over the bush. From the ledge, the face provides great climbing.

Weave your way up the lower wall heading left, right or over the bush. From the ledge, bridge up the corner.

Enjoyable, varied climbing. Head straight up the face immediately right of the arête that offers a well-protected out there feeling.

A great, consistent and airy climb. Up the wall, then balance over the blocks before committing moves up the flake.

The classic of the crag up the steepening wall with increasing difficulty before an outrageous move to get established on the final headwall.

A committing climb with good holds and gear. Up the slab and over the small overlap, then scramble up into the corner under the big roof. Traverse left into an exposed position and climb up into shallow corner. Step right along the horizontal break before finishing through the small three-tiered roof.

A committing climb with good holds and gear. Up the slab and over the small overlap, then scramble up into the corner under the big roof. Traverse left into an exposed position and climb up into shallow corner. Step right along the horizontal break before finishing through the small three-tiered roof.

Fun consistent climbing, up the unprotected slab, then make a bee line for the top on great holds.

A wonderful line, the bottom slab is protected by a BR (bolt plate required) after which the gear and holds come with some thought provoking moves in-between. Finish up the flake.

Starts a bit further south of the main wall and can be accessed the same way by abseiling further down the south side.. Trad belay at the base is recommended.. Up the wall passing some gear to a thin section and a bolt (hanger required). Through the small roof (gear) then easier ground to the top.

Start just left of disintegration. Up the face passing 2 bolts (crux), then pull into the flake and continue up the wall past another br and some gear.. Finishes at the DBB.. Take hangers.

Large blocky hold at about 3/4 distance is extremely fragile. Be very careful placing gear behind it or cranking on it hard

Grunge Metal (24)** 15m

Classic, steep and pumpy ! Start just left of Precious Metals and head up past 4 bolts. Trad gear needed for belay.

Kate Swain, Neil Gledhill 16/12/6

Bearded Dolphin (21)** 15m

Between Finish Fatale and Thrice Bitten. Great climbing up faces and through two small roofs. Follow the line of 6 bolts and some trad if you feel the need (but not required – except for belay). Bouldery start and multiple cruxes. May seem desperate… but can be finessed down to around grade 21. A classic route for the punters !

Kate Swain, Neil Gledhill 16/12/6

Start up steep black wall. Clean sand away before placing big cams, and jug to glory.

1. 10m, 14. Start about 5m right of Banana Split, go up the black wall for 2m, followed by 2m of horizontal breaks leading to a 4m vertical crack. Beware of loose rocks. Optional Belay on the ledge.

2. 15m, 11. Continue up the lower ramp below the line of Northwind. On a hot day, consider climbing the second pitch barefoot to make them happier!

Note: this line was climbed to retrieve the trad anchor of Jug Abuse about 12m down and right of the optional belay of Happy Feet. Have others found a better way to clean the anchor of Jug Abuse (see drawing on S. Richardson’s guide)? Perhaps, many have been wise enough to stay away from Jug Abuse altogether 😉

https://www.climberswa.asn.au/topic/wilyabrup-northern-buttress-happy-feet-25m-14/

Great beginner route. Climb up easy corner/roof section to reach wide banana shaped crack. Jam your way to the top. Well protected with small to medium cams and nuts.

Superb face climbing on excellent rock. Bolts are carrots requiring hangers, small to medium cams and wires can protect the start and middle of the climb.

Sustained. Climb obvious crack route up middle of face. Small cam/nut required for top section. Desperately look for the good hold to reach bolt (hanger required), then squirm your way over the top. DBB (ringbolts) can be found on top and to the left.

Nice climb up the corner with nice finishing jugs. DBB belay at top means you can rap back down!

Really enjoyable face climb. Start under and right of roof (look for rusty bolt in roof). First bolt placement is too high and awkward for a safe clip. Use a small/medium cam to get there. Also a little run out on top.

Start up 'Digital Delecti' then before the layback flakes on this traverse left to the arete and finish up this

We got a little lost trying to ascend BoF and ended up on this great line! start on West face, move slightly right to clip the first bolt. Long move up and right and into good rail beneath roof. Powerful pull through this up the left weakness, and then climb straight to the top, passing through slight open-book. The top half of the route shares the line of Baited Frenzy (18) with marginal protection.

funky heel hooking through the roof to finish up easy wall above. One bolt, wires and small camming devices.

Easy ocean facing slab with lots of jugs. More of a scramble.

More easy slab. Lots of options.

Sit start on jug. Up with good holds on arete and left face.

Sit. Up middle of the face.

Sitter and up.

Sit start on low holds. Up into good holds.

Sit start with crimps.

Sit start under the roof on good slots. Out to the slopey lip and then exit left.

Sit start the crack and up

Sit start in the cave on the sidepulls (left flatty, right crimp). Big moves up to positive left pinch then right crimp with poor feet. Awesome feature.

Sit start low. VHARD.

Stand is straight forward but the sit looks all time and hard... Andy has already done it.

Start low on two left side pulls, big move from left undercling to finger lock pinch before travese left and top out. https://vimeo.com/104922569

Lower start to Salted deeper in the cave (although there is still potential for an even lower start). Come up and right before re-joining 'Salted'. Estimated V9+

Rock blocking the low start has been removed - making a start deep in the cave under the salted boulder possible.

Three moves... sit start on positive holds, up to sidepull then catch the massive barndoor with slopey undercling. Powerful. https://vimeo.com/136427795

Sit start with low right hand undercling and left hand pinch (somewhat contrived). Up edges to easy top out.

Sit start far left of the boulder as for 'Thumb War' and traverse into Newton's Arm Wrestle. Adds some pump and the traverse in itself has a nice sequence (~V5/6ish) - likely adds a grade due to pump

Start on juggy undercling down low and move right before big moves at the lip. https://vimeo.com/104922569

Start as for Wookie but exit out right before the powerful moves at the lip.

https://loganclimbsrocks.blogspot.com/2016/06/the-waiting-game.html

The first corner system you reach as you head south west along the path.

Nice climbing up the thin crack and face to the ledge. Step left and continue up the finger crack in the headwall.

Head up MF to the ledge, clip the br (plate required) and head up and right to an airy finish.

Traverse out right from the start of MF along the thin crack which takes a micro cam. Clip the bolt and crank up the face and fingercrack, through the bulge and onto the large ledge. Enjoyable climbing up the arete passing a bolt (plate required) and some natural gear to the top.

Instead of clipping the bolt on NR, continue traversing right along the horizontal crack until at the base of the flared black groove. A few nice jams up past the chockstone to reach easier ground and the large ledge. Climb the easy face on nice rock passing a br (plate required).

Fun stemming up the wide chimney left of Crab Arête.

https://www.climberswa.asn.au/topic/the-organ-pipes/

Top Roped by Krish in 2014 and included in the South West guide as an open project. Krish came back and lead it in 2022.

https://www.climberswa.asn.au/topic/wilyabrup-the-organ-pipes/

Knocking on Heaven’s Door 15m 17 The wall between Heaven Calling and Spraying leads to a fine steep orange headwall, after placing gear at the break knock on each flake before committing with no more gear in sight. Seewraj, Wiggins 26/08/18

https://www.climberswa.asn.au/topic/organ-pipes/

The narrow chimney left of Spraying Arête, finishing up the right wall. Howe, Seewraj 21/12/17

https://www.climberswa.asn.au/topic/the-organ-pipes/

It Still Counts 15m 4 The narrow cleft right of Oral Discharge widens with height. Howe, Seewraj 21/12/17

https://www.climberswa.asn.au/topic/the-organ-pipes/

Honesty Box 10m 18 The back wall in-between It Still Counts and Oral Discharge. This wall was climbed independent of the side walls, with an airy and exciting finish into the unknown. A great sustained line with some interesting challenges, but requiring honesty to stay on route as it is sadly easily escapable. Doe, Seewraj 14/05/20

https://www.climberswa.asn.au/topic/wilyabrup-organ-pipes/

New Kids on the Block 10m 14 A fun well protected route, after the slab follow the crack and wall. Fischer, Sullivan, Seewraj 21/08/16

https://www.climberswa.asn.au/topic/willyabrup-the-organ-pipes/

The Grunter 15m 16/14 Approx. 5m left of Shot and Sharp the base of the crag is overhung. Grunt your way up the bouldery moves via the break in the rooflet. Keep your composure and balance to mount the slab, with a potential ground fall for those who falter. Trend right up the slab to the narrow crack line that splits the buttress to the right of the chimney. Easier, well protected climbing awaits. The bouldery start can be avoided by accessing the slab a meter or so to the left making a more consistent grade 13 route. Doe, Seewraj 14/05/20

https://www.climberswa.asn.au/topic/wilyabrup-organ-pipes/

10K 15m 8 Approx. 10m left of Short and Sharp an easy slab leads to the left edge of the upper wall, which provides a fun well protected crack. Howe, Seewraj 21/12/17

https://www.climberswa.asn.au/topic/the-organ-pipes/

The Screamer 15m 17 X Start as for 10K trending right up the slab before taking on the steep face. Small but good gear low down in the face is soon a distant memory, and while true to the grade with fun climbing it gets very run out (even by the Organ Pipes standards). Seewraj, Doe 14/05/20

https://www.climberswa.asn.au/topic/wilyabrup-organ-pipes/

A companion route to Gargoyle. As per the way Fairy Floss was first climbed but instead of stepping left into the crack continue up the arête.

https://www.climberswa.asn.au/topic/willyabrup-4/

Climb up the middle of the face of the block facing Norh. Little bit challenging at the start but rewards you with a ledge before challenging you again.

Start 2 meters to the left of Brepus and straight up the face.

Climb follows crack with some old school jamming required for the vertically challenged.

Start at the bottom of the right trending ramp before heading up the main crack and then traverse back left along the hand crack.

Go up thin seams left of Inner Space. Avoid the desire to step left.

Directly up the thin crack below the Inner Space flake, then traversing left at the second large horizontal break and directly up the larger flake to the left. Make sure to extend your gear either end of the traverse or the rope drag will conspire against you and your delicate slopey top-out.

Tough move to start below then straight up with crux in the middle (otherwise a 17 if you use the flake on the left). Trad anchor possible if you want to lower off but save yourself the hassle and just walk down (2 min).

Tough first move and committing last move make this a great mental challenge. If you're crimping, careful of the wind on top...

Follow the twin cracks

Follow ring bolts up arete

3 ring bolts with optional (recommended) medium cam to protect top section

Thin face climb with a high first clip and a long runout between the first and second bolts. Some trad pro needed after second bolt.

Follow crack line on right side of wall, past the bolts to break. Up delicately to top out.

Reach large jugs and either statically or dynamically reach crack system. Take a bolt plate to protect the top section.

A sneaky and completely independent line between Slapping the Fat and Gutted on the Fat Chance Wall. Hard bouldery moves off the deck, up the front of the large blocks that form the corner of Gutted. From the ledge straight up and over the overlaps, avoiding the temptation to drift right or left onto the easier moves of Slapping the Fat or Gutted.

https://www.climberswa.asn.au/topic/wilyabrup-main-area/

Same route as one for the road. But when you get to the overhang escape off to the right to the ledge.

Start from the platform and climb up the major crag of the wall. The crux is at the roof with good gear and great holds. Build the anchor over the big boulder with enough rope or some cams, nuts or hexes under the two boulders on top with you sitting snug between them.

Climb the line of bolts left of One for the Road.

Start as for Thunder Thighs / Sinuosity for 5m. Then traverse left 5m in large horizontal break, clipping second bolt of Dolphin Smiles. Finish up last 3 bolts of Fishing with Dynamite.

Start 2m right of Dolphin Smiles, up and right using the corner system. From the shelf and 2m left of Sinuosity head straight up the wall using flakes and then further up horizontal pocket, joining Sinuosity to finish (Krish Seewraj, Andrew Malone 27/03/11).

https://www.climberswa.asn.au/topic/new-climb-at-willyabrup/

After the 3rd bolt, head right towards the darker rock and crack.

Start 2m L of Dolphin Smiles and follow 6 RBs to the top. Slightly overhanging, pumpy and interesting all the way. A #0.5 Camalot is optional between first and second bolt with the other option being a guaranteed ground fall. Be warned, this in not a sports route. Easy to mistake for Golden Buttress if using old guidebook.

Discussion around bolting and local ethics: https://www.climberswa.asn.au/topic/new-climb-at-willyabrup/

Direct version goes straight up below first bolt. Medium nuts and cams required for protection.

Bouldery start from the roof to join Glory then continue up arete.

See SW Rock (2016)

Up the wall left of Malaria (as for Dunlop Special Alternate Start in SW Guide), trend right to the middle of the wall and then up the bulging headwall on pockets (large cams needed).

https://www.climberswa.asn.au/topic/possible-new-routes-at-willys/

Start as for Hoopsnake, trend up and right passing a large flake until forced to join the arête.

https://www.climberswa.asn.au/topic/possible-new-routes-at-willys/

Start from gully right of Stainless Steel and step left to a bolt. Continue up headwall past a second bolt.

Start as Stainless Steel, but head right past bolt and up right side of ramp.

Follow right trending crack with bomber gear placements to below first bolt. Delicate face climbing past three carrot bolts (need hangers - bolt heads are just a fraction larger than usual so try harder before giving up) before arriving at the roof. Follow crack up roof to finishing jugs. Important to place more pro than usual early on (before 1st bolt) because the distance to the ground reduces as you climb right trending crack before heading up.

Start as Heavy Metal, but at crux, trend right to enter sustained crux section and big run out towards top.

Start in crack as for Stainless Steel. Place cam and move directly up to FH. Crux is reaching 4th FH. Exit with big moves over roof and top out.

Start as Sirius, but when Ulster Madness is reached on large ledge, head right up ramps to horizontal break. Has almost no protection.

P1: Climb diagonal crack and horizontal break to the large ledge. Belay in corner. P2: Follow corner up into easy arête.

The line left of Simply Suicide with a mix of ring bolts and fixed hangers. Take some gear for the horizontal breaks in the middle and near the top.

P1: Right of Delving Devoids is a thin seam with a distinctive bolt (needs replacing). Go straight up to ledge. P2: Continue straight up wall above

Entails some sinister moves P1 Stick clip bolt on lip of overhang and launch leftwards to a small corner and continue up to first belay of Sirius. P2: Continue as for Sirius, up easy arête.

Alternate finish for Delving Devoids. Continue straight up wall from belay with marginal protection.

Up corner roof section. Really hard start leads to enjoyable climbing up corner. Can be done in two pitches to minimise rope drag. Grade has gone up to 21 after a hold broke.

Start the climb the same as for Mobjob, and once through the first roof traverse diagonally left and upward staying to the left of both ring bolts. Pull through the small roof on the arete 5 metres to the left of blowjob to top out. The climb is mixed with two bolts and the rest natural pro.

https://www.climberswa.asn.au/topic/willyabrup-new-route/

"Fantastic climbing. A cairn can be used to reach first holds, then up corner through overhangs and roofs to the top."

Ends up following the same top half as "Hand Job" however traversing left below the 2nd roof under the bolt.

The chimney/crack corner that turns into a pleasant face climb up the right wall. Start by following the crack that takes big gear and has a terrible lumpy and soft limestone covering (you can use smaller gear in places, just look hard and be creative). Use the right face to finish (avoiding the staircase gully to the left).

Up prominent overhang roof on deceptively 'good' holds. Continue over roof on easy finish.

@1min 30sec https://youtu.be/MSN7b6HeLA4

Just left of K.G.B. there is an overhanging jamming crack. Jam this.

Old climb, very little traffic, runout in areas. Climb face of large boulder leaning on the face. Start is a little runout but you can find protection after 2m. On the top of the boulder you step onto the face and traverse right under a small roof across to the arete then up to finish. There are loose blocks on the upper ledges.on top.

Arete with carrots bolts just left of the leaning block. Finish up Welcome to Arapiles

Follow 'High Reel' to the terrace before the roof (possible belay), then go up the face on the right rather than up the loose slab. Very short lived but good moves on good rock - the hardest part is placing protection to avoid hitting the ledge.

A few metres before the track turns right and goes up, there’s a left trending crack - start here. Aim for the left side of the 2 rectangular blocks then straight up to below the roof, right to the top of the block then up a short crack. Sparse pro options on top for anchor so either sling a boulder way back from the edge or, if you want to see your second, make it a 2 pitch climb at the top of the second rectangular block.

Sit start. Up with jugs trending right to top out around the corner.

Sit start. Up the obvious seam. Tall

Cruxy sit start on crimps. Out to good sidepull undercling then up to the obvious transverse crack on the massive east face, to join the highball seam of 'A Million Ways To Die'.