Routes in Central Coast for selected grade

3m L of B. A devious problem.

Stem up cornerto slopey ledge then run out past 3rd carrot to single U anchor.

Start up arete with bouldery start past 2 RBs to carrot and further RB to single U anchor

A mixed route that starts as for Feast For Fingers, moving up to the horizontal break at 7mts and traversing R across the wall into the cave. Mixed gear and a couple of rings

3 pitch Odyssey. Pitch 1: 15m grade 10 easy climbing to good belay. pitch 2 15m grade 15 traverse (very 'airy') to chain. Pitch 3, LH 2 finger pocket and RH slot, up headwall LH smooth sloper, then to 2 finger pocket (crux) match to RH 2 finger pocket. Big LH move to Jug, then techo jug moves to desperate top out finished with customary unclip and launch into thin air!

2m right of gully. Boulder problem start and straight up to bulge, slightly right then balancy move to topout. 3 U-Bolts.

Variant 2nd pitch for TBL. From Double bolt belay, move R under roof with bomber friends, then up face past a U bolt. Cams protect the remainder of the climb. Chain belay as for TBL.

Start same as Daily Bread and straight up the L leaning crack. 2 U-bolts then cams to the top. Lower offs

Up past BR through juggy terrain. Mantel onto small ledge then up over roof before first U-bolt. Finish up headwall past another U-bolt and cam placement.

Start: 2m left of the 'Triangle' corner.

This route commences on the far left end of the sports wall just beyond the cave and detached monolith. Climb the wall through 5 carrots just left of the cave, tricky move past crux. Mixed gear above and tree to belay.

3m L of CC. The short wall with the undercut start. One BR, U-bolt and a #1.5 cam. Belay off tree.

5m L of THC is an attractive vertical crack. Up this with wires and cams for 8mts before your first ring bolt. Crux. up to horizontal break ( a cam if you are worried) tending L to another ring bolt. Continue L to a short crack system (another cam or wire) then straight up passing two more rings. Double ring bolt anchor. rebolted 2016

Hard moves up a vertical face. A couple of bolts and fixed hangers.

Tackles the thin wall L of FHS. Hard to get off ground followed by some dicey hold above horizontal break. Continue straight up past easier country using mixed gear and belay from tree.

The alluring arete R of Mary's Little Lamb. Starts from the ground and just L of the arete. #3 cam adds a bit of comfort getting beyond the horizontal break before heading R for the arete. rap anchors on top.

The last climb on Crack'n up Wall. 6 U-bolts plus a few medium cams will bring you safely to a rap anchor.

Start as for BLS. At the horizontal break at 3/4 height, traverse left along Cam break to join CBC and up via FH.

Hidden away and almost missed, its 25m up and over the rise L of LLL. Crimp your way up compact wall on user friendly holds (not), passing 2 bolt runners to horizontal break (#3 cam). Now up to hold and over bulge, bolt runner on high crimps.

Abseil in as for The Contortionist. On ground level, walk right (facing in) ~20m to start just left of small cave.

Bolts and gear. BD 0.3 - 3 used for FA.

1. (30m) Mixed - 22 - Trend up and right past 3 bolts to double crack system with good cams. Continue straight up past a couple more bolts, traversing right after the scoops along grassy ledge. Straight up crack with gear to DBB on ledge.

2. (25m) Sport - 23 - Bridge overhanging corner to gain thin flake over bulge. Move up small edges trending towards the arete. Traverse delicately right to a tricky crux guarding the anchor. Semi-hanging chain belay.

3. (25m) Sport - 20 - The price of admission. Move left and up into chossy cave. Clip fixed tat and bolt, then mantle onto platform. Traverse left and up on slopers to a botanical and balancey finish.

4. (20m) Mixed - 16 - Straight up blocky corner with good gear. A bolt protects the scramble to the lunch ledge. DUB on top of block.

5. (15m) Sport - 21 - Straight up the right side of arete to a break, followed by crux on great orange rock. DBB over the bulge. Can lower off to the lunch ledge or top out and walk around.

Up the face to cave at 2/3 height then final headwall

2m right of WNW. Over bulge. Gnarly second clip if you're short. 2 RBs, 1 BR, #1.5 friend below top.

4m L of B. Pump start - slab finish. Up to first BR, then snap for the next couple of jugs and bomb proof #3 or #2.5 friend placement. On to second BR on lip then up slab (3rd and final BR) to belay tree atop block.

Up the easy wall passing 2 U-bolts, then and awkward move onto a sloping ledge. Up the orange stain, #1 & 2 cams in the middle then two rings to the top. Belay from the tree.

Thin crack up the short wall.

Mixed gear with old carrots and a couple of cams #0.5 - 1 to get you to the top.

At right hand end of short wall. Boulder up rounded flakes. Top rope or solo only.

Top rope problem 2m left of corner, never bolted due to poor rock. Up center of short wall through roof and short headwall above. DBB.

Start R side of nose at fixed hanger. Up passed carrot and L to join Getting Over it at 3rd bolt (carrot), and up.

Start in back of cave, out lip and up on crimpers to lower off under rooflet.

Start: As for Rumba

Veer right up wall to finish up the the right side of of the prominent overhanging block.

Initialled BJ. Fully rebolted and do as one pitch. Starts 3m L of HIL. Up the little slab to horizontal then up over small roof to orange corner and up to next roof. Yeehaa. Reach out blindly to clip fixed hanger, now swing on out and up trending R. To easy but airy ground to belay off tree in cave. Retrobolted 2012 Anchors are back behind block.

Starts right of undercut, straight up

Up the nice orange/red rock moving leftward at the 3rd bolt. Then cast off left from good block to slopey crimpers and reachy moves, to get across to 4th bolt. Trend up and left to get stood up via little footers. Great technical climbing, that is well protected.

Starts at overhand 3 R of Pearly Gates. Move L and follow U-bolts to interesting top move

Beautiful arête with very solid rock starting off boulder on top of mini shelf. Mixture of RBs and FHs. Resistance climbing.

Follows the seam near the start of the cave on slopey goodness to ledge then traverse roof to Lofty's (spider pig's) anchors.

The line of clean rock directly below the DRB, 1.5m L of Centrepiece and 1m R of the crappy 23. Clean rock and good moves including multiple underclings.

Start at the left of the cave, tough first move then traverse out right past 3 more bolts to finish at top of cliff at 1 U bolt.

Up slopes to undercling, then hard move to gain upper section of cave. Move left on slopey ledge to exciting sitting finish.Starts just after the first pinch gap on the low bolt. Back jump to clean.

Climb the first four bolts on fishermans basket through short roof then right to anchors.

The ramp/arete rising up to the R. You can keep strictly to the ramp (#25) or climb to the left (#23). 3 U-bolts. Shold have a rap anchor but someone forgot to drill the holes.

Slopey underclinging. Same start as 'Lobster' for the first 2 bolts then trend left onto 3 bolts to finish at 'Second Cave Carrots' anchors.

Starts 8mts L of Techtonic. Crux start up the steep cavity to horizontal break at about 3.5 m. Upwards tending L around into the boxy corner. Enjoy some good old fashioned jamming (remember this is a sport climb) before leaving the crack and moving back onto the wall. Depending on the moisture continue straight up or trend a little right. Fun climb

Up 'Lobster', Diagonally right then through roof flake to lower off.

Left short route starting on small ledge

Starting off DBB above roof, trend left and up through great rock

Right short route starting on small ledge

Up orange streak

Start at initialled SKB. Veer right and then back left after second bolt. Recently rebolted, all rings with anchors.

Traverse right at the second bolt and finish on Maiden Voyage anchors.

Undercut start

Start on hanging belay. Exposed climbing

Up the first 2 bolts of Calamari to big break, then left along break to finish up Beautiful Box.

Right line on block. Start up chossy undercut (take care) to first high clip, then up over bulges. Watch the tree behind you. 2 BRs and 1 RB.

0.5m left of GK. Thin just thin, good though! Trend left up black rock on massive edges (3 BRs). Tree belay.

Abseil down over the block to 3 bolt belay above big roof. Super.

Just left at the top of the hill. 3 RB to Double RB lower-off. Caution: One of the lower off RB's is only half in the rock

Line of large U bolts left of CN

Stay on the vertical face for the grade, easier if mantled onto the slab

The second most R route on the crag.Hard, thin moves up the face left of the arete. Single ring bolt belay. Can use an extender as well as a draw on Areptile's single ring bolt for additional protection.

Step down off platform, 8 m right of DCG, to the right of a white roof, and up wall minding the sundews.

Bouldery start up to the labial feature,then straight up to the same anchors as BP

Up 2m R of Mr Creosote on low arête and then through small roof and head wall to anchors back from edge on boulder. Need to abseil off to clean. Alternatively use DBB on route to right.

The black slab right of Snake Eyes. Often wet. Careful of runouts.

Climbs the face just right of the steep wall. Up slab trending right at halfway then delicatly up the steepening wall to top.

A bit contrived - try not to use any holds of Absolute Honey. Direct to first ring shared with AH then pass a bolt, traverse left to flake under a ring bolt and up pass another bolt. Shared anchors with 'Sniffing Dogs'

Starts directly below left end of cave 3. Up past a chipped undercling and a few more chipped holds to slopey mantle into cave. Straight up rim of cave and hard move past bolt to finish.

As for Vitology but keep going left.

Shared start with White Out in corner then head right under roof and up short headwall.

• Back-leading is recommended to clean the route. Too much rope drag exists in order to top-rope from the anchors.

Start on the featured bulge in in the top cave.

The arête at right side of wall . Climbs the right face. Unfortunately first bolt makes you swing around arête if you come off, just start with second clipped. A long sling over the edge from anchors on platform will protect last moves.

Start in the corner on the right hand side of cave (shared start with Gonzo). Hard start to a pumpy traverse left. Shared anchors with Farout

2m left of HIW. Start up past 3 BRs. Again best to down climb to save a lot of mess.