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Glen Innes and surrounds Guide

A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

Aidan... Alec Eastwood Nick Em

The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

Table of contents

1. Glen Innes and surrounds

Summary:
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Seasonality

16 routes in Area

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -29.738672, 151.761244

access issues

If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/

inherited from New South Wales and ACT

1.1. One Lost Chossy Boi

Summary:
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Seasonality

7 routes in Field

Lat / Long: -29.750498, 151.731123

description

Sadly dislocated from the adjacent boulder fields of the adjoining private property, Craigieburn Park and the nearby Stonehenge, this monolithic granite slug is typical of every other boulder strewn around the countryside. With few known climbers residing in Glen Innes, this boulder is more likely to be visited by kids looking to squeeze in some sweet bike jumps and a cheeky goon bag after school.

approach

On arrival to the scenic Celtic Country , access the site from the adjoining streets. Follow either Lambeth St South or Heron St West along the unsealed track to the intersection of the gazetted roads.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 The legend of John Von Bonithan's pants

Stand start 1m left of Not Tommy's Rock on slabby feet. Don't touch the boulder to the left. Trend left to gain a delicious slopey jug, pull out the top and bask in the awesome view of the epic private land boulders next door.

FA: Aidan..., 14 Feb 2020

V1 Boulder 3m
2 Not Tommy's Rock

Stand start on crimps right of JVB's. Don't touch the boulder to the right. Send the clean line trending slightly right up the large bulge on delicate slabby feet. Top out at the highest point.

FA: Aidan..., 14 Feb 2020

V2 Boulder 3m
3 Xanthoparmelia Arboretum

This choss magnet will probably be saturated in lichen and moss, don't fight mother nature, just embrace it. There is a distinct lack of good feet after the crux which is getting established on the wall to start with. A good ol' fashioned pistol squat should do the trick though.

FA: Aidan..., 18 Feb 2020

V3 Boulder 3m
4 Bulls on Parade

The cleanest line on this rock, this project has the potential to be an excellent line. Intended as a stand start on opposing side pull crimps and super obvious foot hold. Move left around the buldge to link onto XA for the top out.

V5/6 BoulderProject 6m
5 Carpe Diem - "It's like Latin for YOLO"

Stand start on with feet on fallen flake in grass matched on good crimps. Work up in search of a shallow 2 finger pocket hidden in the moss. The hollow flake top will probably pop off soon enough solidifying a V3 grading.

FA: Aidan..., 14 Feb 2020

V2/3 Boulder 4m
6 Paddy's POE-TATE-OHS!

Stand start with slabby smear feet. follow the obvious line up. FA in runners.

FA: Aidan..., 9 Feb 2020

V0 Boulder 2m
7 Chossy Boi Downclimb

The slabby down climb. In runners the ascent might just qualify for a VB-. Be sure to check if there is some vodka stashed under the block on top.

FA: Aidan..., 9 Feb 2020

VB- Boulder 2m

1.2. Grey boulders

Summary:

1 route in Field

Lat / Long: -29.752565, 151.732891

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Smart Cities V3 Boulder 3m

1.3. Beardy Waters Woodlands

Summary:
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Seasonality

8 routes in Area

Lat / Long: -29.727466, 151.789429

summary

A large boulder cluster inside the Beardy Waters Wooldlands reserve, with some smaller outlying boulders. Not exactly a destination area, but if you're passing, there are a handful of decent problems

approach

Beardy Waters Woodlands reserve in just off the Gwydir Highway about 5 minutes east of Glen Innes.

1.3.1. Central Boulders

Summary:

8 routes in Boulder

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -29.728259, 151.788782

description

A single large fractured boulder with climbing on all sides

approach

From the car park and picnic area, enter the woodlands by the upper gate. The boulder will appear straight ahead of you after a minute's walking

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 The End

Sit start and climb the left hand arete

V0 Boulder 2m
2 Going Underground

Stand start climbs the right side of the excellent arete, using the RH crimp in the middle of the wall and LH on the arete.

V4 Boulder 3m
3 Crimp project

Looks to be a hard line on crimps up the middle of the wall

Boulder 3m
4 Portland

Sit start and up the juggy crack. Climbs well.

V0 Boulder 3m
5 Vancouver

The crack and left side is eliminated, finish up the right curved crack

V2 Boulder 3m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
6 Slab project

Great looking bulge and slab. How you'd top it out through the ivy is uncertain

Boulder
7 Back Left

Stand start using the long diagonal crimp. The holds on top are a little fragile, take care going over

V1 Boulder 2m
8 Back Right

Up and left using slopers and heels. The better of the two here

V0 Boulder 2m

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Pop Area
VB- Chossy Boi Downclimb Boulder 2m 1.1. One Lost Chossy Boi
V0 Paddy's POE-TATE-OHS! Boulder 2m 1.1. One Lost Chossy Boi
Back Right Boulder 2m 1.3.1. Central Boulders
Portland Boulder 3m 1.3.1. Central Boulders
The End Boulder 2m 1.3.1. Central Boulders
V1 The legend of John Von Bonithan's pants Boulder 3m 1.1. One Lost Chossy Boi
Back Left Boulder 2m 1.3.1. Central Boulders
V2 Not Tommy's Rock Boulder 3m 1.1. One Lost Chossy Boi
Vancouver Boulder 3m 1.3.1. Central Boulders
V2/3 Carpe Diem - "It's like Latin for YOLO" Boulder 4m 1.1. One Lost Chossy Boi
V3 Xanthoparmelia Arboretum Boulder 3m 1.1. One Lost Chossy Boi
Smart Cities Boulder 3m 1.2. Grey boulders
V4 Going Underground Boulder 3m 1.3.1. Central Boulders
V5/6 Bulls on Parade BoulderProject 6m 1.1. One Lost Chossy Boi
? Crimp project Boulder 3m 1.3.1. Central Boulders
Slab project Boulder 1.3.1. Central Boulders
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