A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.
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Contributors
Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:
Aidan...
Brendan Heywood
Alec Eastwood
Nick Em
The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.
Table of contents
- 1.
Glen Innes and surrounds
16 in Area
- 1.1. One Lost Chossy Boi 7 routes in Field
- 1.2. Grey boulders 1 routes in Field
-
1.3.
Beardy Waters Woodlands 8 routes in Area
- 1.3.1. Central Boulders 8 routes in Boulder
- 2. Index by grade
1. Glen Innes and surrounds
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: -29.738672, 151.761244
access issues
If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/
1.1. One Lost Chossy Boi
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: -29.750498, 151.731123
description
Sadly dislocated from the adjacent boulder fields of the adjoining private property, Craigieburn Park and the nearby Stonehenge, this monolithic granite slug is typical of every other boulder strewn around the countryside.
With few known climbers residing in Glen Innes, this boulder is more likely to be visited by kids looking to squeeze in some sweet bike jumps and a cheeky goon bag after school.
approach
On arrival to the scenic Celtic Country
, access the site from the adjoining streets. Follow either Lambeth St South or Heron St West along the unsealed track to the intersection of the gazetted roads.
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
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1 |
★ The legend of John Von Bonithan's pants
Stand start 1m left of Not Tommy's Rock on slabby feet. Don't touch the boulder to the left. Trend left to gain a delicious slopey jug, pull out the top and bask in the awesome view of the epic private land boulders next door. FA: Aidan..., 14 Feb 2020 | V1 | 3m | |||||
2 |
★ Not Tommy's Rock
Stand start on crimps right of JVB's. Don't touch the boulder to the right. Send the clean line trending slightly right up the large bulge on delicate slabby feet. Top out at the highest point. FA: Aidan..., 14 Feb 2020 | V2 | 3m | |||||
3 |
★★ Xanthoparmelia Arboretum
This choss magnet will probably be saturated in lichen and moss, don't fight mother nature, just embrace it. There is a distinct lack of good feet after the crux which is getting established on the wall to start with. A good ol' fashioned pistol squat should do the trick though. FA: Aidan..., 18 Feb 2020 | V3 | 3m | |||||
4 |
Bulls on Parade
The cleanest line on this rock, this project has the potential to be an excellent line. Intended as a stand start on opposing side pull crimps and super obvious foot hold. Move left around the buldge to link onto XA for the top out. | V5/6 | 6m | |||||
5 |
Carpe Diem - "It's like Latin for YOLO"
Stand start on with feet on fallen flake in grass matched on good crimps. Work up in search of a shallow 2 finger pocket hidden in the moss. The hollow flake top will probably pop off soon enough solidifying a V3 grading. FA: Aidan..., 14 Feb 2020 | V2/3 | 4m | |||||
6 |
Paddy's POE-TATE-OHS!
Stand start with slabby smear feet. follow the obvious line up. FA in runners. FA: Aidan..., 9 Feb 2020 | V0 | 2m | |||||
7 |
Chossy Boi Downclimb
The slabby down climb. In runners the ascent might just qualify for a VB-. Be sure to check if there is some vodka stashed under the block on top. FA: Aidan..., 9 Feb 2020 | VB- | 2m |
1.2. Grey boulders
- Summary:
-
1 route in Field
Lat / Long: -29.752565, 151.732891
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★★ Smart Cities | V3 | 3m |
1.3. Beardy Waters Woodlands
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: -29.727466, 151.789429
summary
A large boulder cluster inside the Beardy Waters Wooldlands reserve, with some smaller outlying boulders. Not exactly a destination area, but if you're passing, there are a handful of decent problems
approach
Beardy Waters Woodlands reserve in just off the Gwydir Highway about 5 minutes east of Glen Innes.
1.3.1. Central Boulders
- Summary:
-
8 routes in Boulder
Lat / Long: -29.728259, 151.788782
description
A single large fractured boulder with climbing on all sides
approach
From the car park and picnic area, enter the woodlands by the upper gate. The boulder will appear straight ahead of you after a minute's walking
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
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1 |
★ The End
Sit start and climb the left hand arete FA: Tim Nicholson | V0 | 2m | |||||
2 |
★★ Going Underground
Stand start climbs the right side of the excellent arete, using the RH crimp in the middle of the wall and LH on the arete. FA: Tim Nicholson | V4 | 3m | |||||
3 |
Crimp project
Looks to be a hard line on crimps up the middle of the wall | 3m | ||||||
4 |
★ Portland
Sit start and up the juggy crack. Climbs well. FA: Tim Nicholson | V0 | 3m | |||||
5 |
★ Vancouver
The crack and left side is eliminated, finish up the right curved crack FA: Brendan Heywood | V2 | 3m | |||||
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
6 |
Slab project
Great looking bulge and slab. How you'd top it out through the ivy is uncertain | |||||||
7 |
Back Left
Stand start using the long diagonal crimp. The holds on top are a little fragile, take care going over FA: Tim Nicholson | V1 | 2m | |||||
8 |
Back Right
Up and left using slopers and heels. The better of the two here FA: Tim Nicholson | V0 | 2m |
2. Index by grade
Grade | ![]() |
Stars | Name | Style | Pop | Area |
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
VB- | Chossy Boi Downclimb | 2m | 1.1. One Lost Chossy Boi | |||
V0 | Paddy's POE-TATE-OHS! | 2m | 1.1. One Lost Chossy Boi | |||
Back Right | 2m | 1.3.1. Central Boulders | ||||
★ | Portland | 3m | 1.3.1. Central Boulders | |||
★ | The End | 2m | 1.3.1. Central Boulders | |||
V1 | ★ | The legend of John Von Bonithan's pants | 3m | 1.1. One Lost Chossy Boi | ||
Back Left | 2m | 1.3.1. Central Boulders | ||||
V2 | ★ | Not Tommy's Rock | 3m | 1.1. One Lost Chossy Boi | ||
★ | Vancouver | 3m | 1.3.1. Central Boulders | |||
V2/3 | Carpe Diem - "It's like Latin for YOLO" | 4m | 1.1. One Lost Chossy Boi | |||
V3 | ★★ | Xanthoparmelia Arboretum | 3m | 1.1. One Lost Chossy Boi | ||
★★ | Smart Cities | 3m | 1.2. Grey boulders | |||
V4 | ★★ | Going Underground | 3m | 1.3.1. Central Boulders | ||
V5/6 | Bulls on Parade | 6m | 1.1. One Lost Chossy Boi | |||
? | Crimp project | 3m | 1.3.1. Central Boulders | |||
Slab project | 1.3.1. Central Boulders |