Routes in New South Wales and ACT for selected grade

Starts on left side of arête. Straight up to finish.

Optional friend no longer needed to protect start.

Follows the obvious orange streak up the middle of the wall. Ringbolts.

One of the all-time classic routes of the region, if not Australia. Fantastic climbing up the searing crack on a stunning wall. Rap anchors on ledge at the top of the first pitch. Start at the base of the mega obvious crack.

1. 22m (18) Blast up the crack, you won't get lost. This pitch is also known as Yorkshire Crack.

2. 10m (23) A rarely repeated direct finish to the route goes straight over the overhang above the first belay, passing some old carrots en route.

Pleasant wall 6m R of K.

Start 2m left of SOF. Up tending right then left through crux, to easy top section. Double fixed biners at top.

Bold start to gain slightly overhanging face then up scoops on rings to double ring lower off. Good fun at the grade.

Used to be a carrot patch for the sports bunnies, with an awesome final wall. Now it has rings all the way. Carrots are still there, so take some brackets if you need to share a belay. Don't go as a party of 3 unless you are experienced, it eats too much time. If you have a pack, haul it on the second rope if you're getting tired. Don't leave toilet paper or rubbish, you're in a National Park, behave accordingly and don't get on routes like this if you don't know what that means.

People have stupid epics on this all the time. Please read :- http://www.chockstone.org/Forum/Forum.asp?Action=DisplayTopic&ForumID=15&MessageID=26665&Replies=58&PagePos=0&Sort=#NewPost

Generally safe, but run-out at times, with a few loose patches of rock. Take helmets as belayers are lashed to small ledges and can’t dodge shrapnel. Take 2 50m ropes (for rapping down, or retreating), 16 draws and a few slings.

There is a blue emergency bin below Pitch 6, with some water, food, clothing, torches, and basic shelter. Don't call 000 just because you are benighted, so the police don't have to go out at night to babysit you. Please arrange to replace anything you use.

ACCESS: It’s halfway to Hotel California from Mirrorball. Rap in as described above then walk along the track to the right (facing the cliff). After 30m, drop down around the base of Old Skule (clean arete on next pinnacle) and go 70m horizontally right thru the scrub till you hit an orange buttress. Continue down a bit and about another 70m to red rope and BBB sign:

★★★ Bunny Bucket Buttress 18 - 20220101_075236.jpg

Now scramble up and right to a ledge 15m above the track, right of a chossy white patch, just right of a short squeeze chimney. Walk 10m right on the ledge till you see the bolts at the boulder problem start. (If you go down hill to a big fallen boulder, or see a 30m high black then orange corner (Randy Rabbit Ridge), or traverse beneath a choss cave, you've gone too far).

Print out topos and route description or save them to your phone, as you probably won't have reception down there.

1. 20m (18) Traverse out right and back left to flake, reachy. Up to ledge, 2RB.

2. 20m (18) Right and up seam and corner to ledge. Up a move and diagonally R to arete, then R to ledge and 2RB.

3. 40m (18) Up dirty slab and R across corner, traverse R to nose and up corner and nose to ledge. 2RB on block or walk R 8m to 2BB at base of wall.

4. 30m (8) A hard hands-free problem, diagonally R past bolts to 2RB on block further up or tree belay at the top of the slab.

5. 40m (8) Climb across ledges and walls (and a lot of bush...) past bolts to below orange overhang, L to 2RB below corner.

6. 40m (18) Up choss and head out L staying low under roof. Rope drag possible, but its fine if you sling the first 4 bolts. Head up pumpy wall to big ledge. 2RB.

7. 40m (18) Up vertical pump. Needs 15 draws. 2RB.

8. 40m (13) Left across ledge, diagonal L past bolts and across groove. Climb loose left wall to 2RB on top. Rope drag possible, but it's fine if you sling the first few bolts.

Shared start with previous, then straight up. Fun jug hauling. Rebolted 2017.

Probably the most popular route at Nowra at the grade. Great friction work.

Popular, mostly due to the bolts, easy grade and the weather protection. The middle of the three mini-routes. Wall to fun flake feature, then up tricky wall to finish. Some loose rock at the top.

Rings, just to the right of Pompadour.

Fun climb with nice moves, I've seen 2 ppl get flipped when falling just below the lower-offs - don't let the rope go behind your legs!

Left of 'Duckling'.

Off the ledge to the left of the dead tree. Ringbolts. Good!

2x clip-and-go biner anchors.

Both pitches can be combined - bring a lot of bolt plates!

1. 20m (18) Fun juggy face, through a bulge then traverse left to small ledge and semi-hanging belay.

2. 35m (15) Long exposed face. This pitch is all on carrots (10 bolt plates are needed + 2 extra if using top belay carrots). Double ring bolt belay or top out and use carrots set back from the edge. Walk off unless you have double ropes.

Nice crack with 'good' underclings and 'easy' moves. The block that the lower off was in is cracked on 3 sides and has a tree growing in it, so it was moved down to more solid rock.

Start on the right side of arête, finish by traversing left to the shared anchors with 'Maddest Hatter'.

A bit of a sandbag with one of the hardest moves on the whole wall. Rebolted 2017.

Central line with a tricky middle section and slightly runout top.

A well bolted 18m warmup with fun moves and good holds most of the way,easiest to step left into the crack for a move; crag warmup.

Line of ring bolts up hanging slab. Apparently the crack 1m to the right is off route.

Start: 2m right (facing in) of 'Kaboomba Brothers'.

Industrial anchors surrounded by a sea of pockets. A crag classic.

Start: 2m right of 'Comausminpab'

Anchors and problem bolts replaced 08/20.

The left route

The direct line between Sloth and EbtW, goes all the way to the top of the cliff. Watch that rope !!

Thin slab to juggy overhang.

Vertical face climbing with a bit of a layback section.

Start: Starts where ledge steps down, 7m left (facing in) of rap-in.

1. Cruisy pitch at the grade. Up left side of overlap then left trending layback flake to face moves and mantle on large horizontal break. 7RB to 2RB belay/lower-off.

2. Pretty ordinary but interesting moves. Worth doing if you are topping out anyway. 5RB. 'Grunt' off belay then up past awkward move on left side of overhang. Up boulder with fantastic ironstone plates to 2RB belay.

Follow the ring bolts.

Start as for B. Steeply up to roof, then out roof to chain lower off in break (Chain lower off is safe and in good condition but poorly set up.) Or continue up Unfair Dismissal

3m R of Lunatic. Follow the slab up and over a small roof finishing up obvious flake and R edge of blunt arete.

Excellent climb with interesting moves. Follow the right arcing line. Originally graded 19, but a few people have suggested that it is a little bit easier than that.

Hard start up the scoop or much easier start a bit R. Up and left to top

[Dec. 2011 - ring bolt lower offs added] Run-out and slightly contrived but excellent. Tricky start onto thin wall and clip. Up the middle of (without pulling left onto the arete for a rest!). Up the easy ground (bolt) to pull over final easy overhang to lower offs.

The arete right of CD. Many people traverse in from the left or right. 4 carrots plus medium-large gear.

The nice slab in the middle of the wall, with three ring bolts to a lower-off

Park at 'Pulpit' Rock carpark and walk down towards 'Pulpit' Rock (take care if using Google maps, there are two or three pulpit rock lookouts/carparks. Use the link provided to get the correct one). Turn off left at the 12th drain (wide wooden drains cross this track) after about 200m. Follow the evident trail trending right for about 60m leading to the ridge line. At this point turn L and look for a single RB. Hook in here with your safety line and set up your ropes off the 2RB's around the corner. Rap down 46m passing FH's and RB's to the ledge.There's a belay on the left and on the right, use the ones on the left. Set up your ropes off draws (as there is a lot of friction, hard to pull ropes otherwise) on these RB's and rap 46m to the base. Best to belay to the tree and belay the next climber on the exposed 'walk' to the right. Facing the cliff walk 20m right taking care and up to the tree in the corner where the route starts (single ring belay, and good tree on right). Take 16 draws, and a couple for the anchors.

1. 45m (16) Up the wall left of the corner on a little rib, staying right of dead tree. Diagonally left across slabby wall with one thin section. 16 rings to 2RB belay on the RHS of the big ledge.

2. 40m (18) Move belay 5m to the left. Head up and left to ledge. Head up though exciting bulge and onto slab. Up to traverse then pull up onto face. Climb to crack and up to belay station.

3. 15m (15) The Champagne pitch! Start up 3D chimney with holds everywhere. Shuffle thru this, past 2 bolts and launch out, around and up to exciting headwall overlooking the spectacular Grose Valley below.

Pumpy! Extended with 20m of new climbing. About 40m back up the gully from the sea and 20m R of Rainbow Connection, below a chossy left tending flake. Up the flake moving left past 2 ledges. At top go right to hidden flake at anchor. Careful lowering and cleaning as it's very diagonal (leave 1st draw clipped then climb up and remove it) First crack was done as easy, scary trad (13!), extended by Eugene.

Long draws will cut drag.

Originally called 'Pornflakes' - Mikl's old rusted carrot can be seen on the first obvious ledge.

The major splitter corner crack initialled "AC". Take a full rack, but you stll have to run out the offwidth! Lower off chains (60m rope will get you to the ground on stretch).

3m R of Breaking Good in middle of wall, 3m L of seam (Gushing Knees). Step off short persons cheater rock on first ledge (clip 1st bolt with a single screwgate to limit fall distance and unclipping) and up and head left. Slight runout to the anchor.

This is a great climb, definitely worth it. Solid for the grade.

The most popular route on the wall - hits the Mtns sweet spot of lots of bolts and grade 18. Starts in middle of wall at tree.

Start: Technically this also starts up the corner below but most people do it off the ledge! Line of bolts 1.5m right of Noodle.

Starts in obvious corner. Straight up slightly overhung past a single BR, then directly up past 3 FHs right to lower off. Corner can be slippery when wet

Fun start then up to engaging headwall and anchors on top of broken cliff.The best climb on this wall.

Marked NFM. Up to RB then leftwards past two more Ubolts to lower-off. Harder first moves then easy top.

Start: 5m left of R, just under arete.

Follow the arete the whole way with lots of really nice moves.

Start: as for BB then right line of bolts

Pretty crap, unless you like grunty mantles. Oh, and if you fall off try not to hit a ledge. Start just R of BB.

A classic steep slab-climb.

Start: 1m left of 'Arachibutyrophobia'

Great climbing! Crux to start (BR), then sustained climbing (BR) to ledge (cams recommended here). Continue up pleasant headwall (2 BRs) to belay as for CoD.

Test your dance moves, up slab and then right on roof to main head wall.

Starts at the bottom of 'Cenotaph Corner'. Often top roped. Move left at top to lower off

Left arete of big wall. All ringbolts.

1. 20m (18)- Hard for grade for first two bolts, consider a big stick to stick clip 2nd ring. Then long pointless runout to 3rd ring. Belay from chains in cave and move belay 10m R to rings at waist level.

2. 15m (12) heave ho up and then L to arete and rings in cosy cave.

3. 25m (18) up arete to rings at top.

Can just rap to first chain belay ledge from top anchor with single 60m rope, and then on to ground.

[Dec 2012 - replace carrots with steel ring bolts. Use 'Short Legs' for lower off] The arete left of 'Fingers'. Starting at initials, reach up and pull up overhanging start to bolt. Up the arete past another bolt to easy ground. Continue as for fingers to the top.

Tricky! Start by climbing directly up arete and continue up past 3 Ubolts to lower off.

Straight up on good holds, great fun!

Easy if you're tall. Start is marked TST. Up corner to ring (shared with Kicks) then left across scoop (crux) and up to lower off.

4m Right of 'A'. Start as for 'Trickles' to first RB then continue straight through crimpy features past 2 more RBs. Up onto final ledge and onto headwall.

Up obvious corner.

Was previously a trad climb but with dubious pro (and tree belay), now (2012) fully bolted with lower-offs.

About 3m right of the arete at the mouth of the gully, opposite the ladders, on 2nd biggest boulder. Clip 1st bolt with a screwgate and step left and up past another 8 Ubolts to a loweroff. 1st pitch retrobolted and straightened out 2014 (originally traversed in from right at roof). There is the old trad 2nd pitch over roof above (17ish).

Climb the left hand side of the arête past 3RB's before moving right onto the wall and then up. The rock at the start is average but the main wall is reminiscent of an easier version of 'Vanderholics'.

8RB's to 2RB anchor.

Start: Start 3m right of 'Philosopher's Stone' just left of the arête.

The wall a meter or so right of arete.

The best crag warmup. Juggy fun face for 20m to midway set of lower-offs. The bottom moves are quite reachy.

Up the crack that stops at 5m, climbs the pockets and features left of crack thru the bulges. Way cool !

Thru the flakes, up nice headwall.

Start: Under obvious flakes

1. 30m (16) Crack to ledge.

2. 28m (18) 'Steep' crack to top.

Nice exposed arete on the right edge of the high ledge. Excellent! Take care with one of the roof "jugs"; it sounds hollow and fragile. Pull past it. DRB on ledge at top.

Long ramble, first crux at one third height then fun climbing to top crux in brilliant orange rock. Start at far left hand of ramp at the belay bolt.

Enter the crumbling ruins that guard the first high bolt. Crux move to second bolt. (Can be avoided by stepping far right.) Ramble through the ledges and moss filled cracks to the fabled city of gold. Fun. Long. Exit from chains on the final ledge. 60m is perfectly fine.

The climb name came about after a bit of an accident on the access waterfall. Climb the spaced U bolts to gain the slab and then climb the left hand line. Cruisy climb up this nice wall with a coupe tricky moves.

Right route sharing the same belay as Captain Hook. Probably retrobolts Nantucket Sleigh Ride.

Start: 1m left of 'Liquid Insanity'. Steep wall past 2 BRs to ledge, then crack / corner to break. Step right to double RB belay, or (recommended) finish directly over block (BR to double BB belay).

2m R of CM. Up overhanging nose to lower offs.

Mantle your way onto ledge, then easy climbing to the top.

The far left route with giant U-bolts. Easy start then tricky finish - stay left unless you want to get sandbagged.

Up and R

An excellent mid week option! Another long euro-enduro adventure at the grade. Most of these climbs are similar, but this is probably the best one.

Rebolted 20-05-2006

Fun jug pulling up steep wall on far right end of crag. Four u-bolts. Very well protected but has no lower-off. Easy top out and set up an abseil on the rings 2m back

Looks bad, but is actually quite good - in an adventurous way.

Start: Start next to the path, just left of the mossy corner.

Rightmost of the slabs. Shares an anchor with Back to Back. Hard moves to gain upper slab if short

Shared start with Sparky, up flake and drift right past a few more bolts to shared lower off with HH. Reachy at the top.

Climb the arete on the right finishing at the rooflet

On paper this appears to be the easiest route in this neck of the woods BUT the opening move is a real slap in the face. Bolted undercut shallow corner with low anchors. This route was originally done on trad in the 70s and finished off to the right onto the arete (old piton) right of Abso as a 35m pitch that topped out.

Lefthand route on short grey wall before the chimney. Climb at undercut orange rock. Take care with the rock.

Takes the line up the middle of a 20m wide, slabby pillar. Starts climbing the lefthand flakes of a cave. Start is same as MoshPit, but straight up.

Up wall two meters right of "The Count". Take care clipping 3rd bolt. For full value, start up the wall or the arete, not off the high block in the gully.

Start RH edge of cave at bottom, working up flake, then traverse left above cave and over bulge. Then straightish up.

Start up easy wall left of corner through 3 RBs to ledge. Then up chossy, sandy, arete. Clip high Ubolt with lockiong biner to keep you off the ledge. 2 RBs through the honeycomb to a double RB lower. Take a hold home as a souvenir. At the rate the holds break off no 2 ascents will never be the same!

Best easy route at GFC by a country mile. Looks like a sandbaggy 22 but it isn't. Climbs up and left on the lower orange section. It then makes it way up and right on the grey streaks up to the horn near the top. Wanders a lot and uses many holds out right. If it's over 18, go right. Named after the classic desert boots of the mid 80’s in the local area. The first chopped bolt that gets mentioned in the comments has been replaced by unknown bolting fairies as per 28/01/19.

In many ways shorter than its 13 metres would lead you to believe, this route starts up an easy grade 9 arete, then becomes much steeper, moving out over a rooflet with little to do with your feet for the first move or two but paste them to the limestone and grunt your way up.

If you're feeling exceptionally lazy, you can just walk up the grass slope and completely ignore the arete! Bolt recently moved down so it's below, rather than above the crux. Ringbolt lower-offs. Update 2013-08: Lower bolt has had the hanger stolen, sole bolt is at the crux

The bolted crackline. Finishes at the top of cliff after a leftward traverse. Single U anchor is to assist with cleaning.