Routes in South East for selected grade

Gently overhung sport climbing past seven FH's to an exciting conclusion which often sees pumped leaders take to the air.

Start: 3m R of 'Procrastinator' (before rock slab starts rising R-wards).

Slab with some nice pockets (don't you wish this went on for 50m?), then sustained headwall which should make your arms feel warm.

Fantastic climbing through steep territory on edges of vaguely Africa shaped plate. Up and over the lip trending L and up to recently installed rap station/lower-off.

Start: Start in cave at right end of point pure, stick clip first bolt.

More bouldery than Strip Clubs. Start just right and up the slab (like all routes in this sector). Daunting black overhang then headwall. Where's that finishing jug...?

Great climbing in a superb position.

Start: 6m L below apex of overhanging orange wall.

1. 35m (16) At mark climb slightly left to first FH. Nine FH's up to rap station below steep wall on L. The fifth bolt is invisible. When the way appears blocked by a ferny ledge, climb onto the ledge via its left side and it should become apparent.

2. 12m (21) Climb R past two close FH's. Then straight up past a third FH to rap station on pedestal.

3. 30m (22) Straight up orange corner and face above. At ninth FH step R and up to rap station on sloping ramp. This is the standout pitch of 'Celestial Wall'.

4. 10m (22) Short and a bit awkward. Mount bulge from L. At ledge on top, rap anchor is on L. A fixed rope leads up and R onto 'Halfway House' terrace.

Descent: Abseiling back the way you came is not recommended and has resulted in numerous stuck ropes. It is recommended you head up to Halfway House, follow the fixed ropes up and left from the anchor. Once at Halfway house head right and abseil down Clemency. The top anchors for Clemency are beneath the tree with the fixed rope.

Start 3m L of 'Adam's Rib'. Marked "G".

Justifiably popular. Follow the line of 5 RBs to the anchor shared with 'The Bolting Gestapo'.

Clip first bolt from the narrow ledge and pull onto the hard start. Pumpy pocketed face. Avoid traversing R for a giant rest on the jug of KB and add a grade and a star. A classic route but best avoided between Aug-Dec as the local falcon has a habit of greeting would-be ascentionists at very high speeds.

Slightly to the right of Barroom Brawl. Start on the pockets and pull up onto the slab. Follow the juggy flakes up into the roof & around the lip to anchors.

2m R. Stickclip first bolt. Independent (and tricky) start up black wall. Once through, romp up to rest ledge. When ready, tackle the headwall.

Start at the first obvious cliff face at the rightmost (southern or Southbank) end of the main cliffs, behind the "Danger" sign. Marked "P".

Balancy and intense slab climbing. Climb R then L up vertical face past 2 RBs. Crimpy moves past 3rd RB lead to a jug and the halfway ledge. From ledge follow 3 RBs up thin slab to top. Large rings up over the lip provide anchors to rap or belay from. 6 RBs.

Start on arete 1m R of 'Exhilarant', 1m L of 'Gangbang Wall'.

Steep and balancy climbing, 'HWA' takes balance and commitment, while 'GBW' takes crimp strength and brawn. This route is great for climbers who lack the strength to crank through its neighbour, also fun for sandbagging musclebound tough-guys who have no technique.

Up arete clipping 1st 3 FHs shared with 'GBW'. Continue up arete above horizontal seam past further 3 FHs. Finish up easy slab to DBB shared with 'GBW' and 'Hanger Wall', optionally clipping 1 or 2 of the 'HW'[12212749] BRs.

Climb the technical slab with pockets straight up the right side of prow through steepening ground. Can you make the anchors without a respirator?

A good warm up and introduction to Flinder's rock. The climbing is fun and there's jugs whenever you need them…clean the 4th draw after you climb past it.

Simply amazing finger locking up the line that bisects the blank wall L of Warlock. There are 2 very distinct cruxes on this thoroughly enjoyable and sustained outing. Easier moves up the final chimney to finish at the rap chain. A 60m rope will get you back down in style.

Starts on higher terrace just right of Dontworry.com. Slab past three bolts under roof. Monkey out and through on huge holds. Take the left side of the arête past a harder move, then slab headwall.

Start: 10m R of Aphelion, below first FH.

1. 45m (18) 15 FH's. This long and varied pitch features interesting black slab climbing before steepening into a lovely sculpted orange corner. Belay at rap station on R.

2. 30m (22) Nine FH's lead up some bulgy, wacky territory to exposed, blocky arête which bounds the R side of 'Celestial Wall'. Finish at rap station as for p3 of 'Aphelion'. Rap off here, or..

3. 10m (22) As for fourth pitch of 'Aphelion' onto 'Halfway House' ledge.

Descent: Abseil back the way you came is not recommended and has resulted in numerous stuck ropes. It is recommended you head up to Halfway House, follow the fixed ropes up and left from the anchor. Once at Halfway house head right and abseil down Clemency. The top anchors for Clemency are beneath the tree with the fixed rope.

Simply amazing. A tough start leads to one of the most sustained and awesome climbs imaginable. Take some microcams for the start. The climb itself is a contender for the best route on the cliff, regardless of grade.

Brilliant climbing up an amazing line. A thin and bouldery start leads to a searing corner of unsurpassed quality. Thin hand jams and finger locks lead exhaustingly to a ledge. From there, continue easily to the belay tree.

Done by Coral Bowman (US) in 1976, when it was 21, likely the first female ascent at this grade in AU.

Start at corner 3m R of 'Surrender', just L of "NUT" mark (it's often confused with 'Nut').

Up corner past 3 RBs then layback the crux to attain ledge. More challenging moves past 2 RBs to finish at DBB.

Start at the leftmost line of bolts on 'Owl Pillar'. Compulsory stickclip the 1st bolt due to the uneven ground and steep dropoff to the L. Pull up the overhanging start (crux) past the 1st FH then clip the 2nd FH. Continue up more easily clipping the top BR (shared with 'Afternoon Delight') on the way to the summit and rap chains. The bolts on this route are still the original carrots bolts so take care. No dogging please.

Start 2m R of 'Postmodernist Blues'. Marked "LPW".

Rebolted in 2019

Follow the L tending line of 5 RBs up nice wall and thin slab. Push through the great crux sequence, placing a #2 wire, and top out.

Start on the right, traverse across on good rails and head halfway across the lip via a cool pocket above the largest part of the lip.

Brilliant climbing up the dark corner to the R of Christian. Up easily for 7m to a stance. Release a blood-curdling howl and tear up the hard lay back line to the top like a frenzied madman! Technical jamming and layback sequences provide thoroughly absorbing and sustained movement all the way. Milk the rest at half height, as that's all you get. From the ledge at the top, one hard move onto the wall and you can step L onto Plume Ledge. Finish here, or get extra "old school points" by thrashing up the final wide groove above.

A bit of a one move wonder which eases in the upper half. Avoid the big blocks out L at about half height. Arapliesean.

Start: The L-most route on Upper 'Slider' wall.

Technical climbing through some great holds that may not be obvious.

Great finger locking up a thin seam. A little tricky to protect lay backing, but well worth the trip. Quite technical and strenuous.

Traverse R along fixed rope. Grey face/arete. Stick clip first bolt and start up crack. Punchy and sustained little route with long moves between good holds.

Sitstart as low as you desire under blunt arete, up and L to awesome rail, top out.

Subtle arete with shallow gritty scoops and slab to finish. Technical with a gritstone feel. There used to be a tree growing next to this route and one of the bits of pro was slinging it's branch! The tree is now long gone and its now protected by 4 ringbolts.

Start: 1m right of A Shadow So Huge.

One of the shortest routes around. Three FH's to anchor.

Stunning quality, an absolute classic. Start on the ledge above and R of the start to Infinity. Steep jamming and locking leads to a pronounced crux rounding the bulge. Great gear, a little spaced at the crux, but completely bombproof. Finish easily up to the Infinity chains.

The pitch lengths haven't been verified, so don't rely on their accuracy. Also, some grades are also not accurate and need to be verified. Caution: some mallions on anchors are rusting out.

The longest sport climb in Queensland (320m), this adventure sport climb takes you through the highest and steepest part of Mt Barney's imposing East Face. It's a very sustained route with very few easy pitches, and the individual pitches are also sustained in themselves. This route has mega exposure, good falls, a fair few really enjoyable pitches of climbing, and some rotten rock thrown in. A lot of the loose, sitting death blocks mentioned previously have been removed, but no promises. However, it still remains a serious undertaking, and self-rescue skills, early starts, general efficiency, a solid head, and determination are ALL necessities.

At points this climb lacks line and can feel forced, but whatever the case, it definitely required vision and effort to establish. The highest climb in Queensland is not for your average sport climber, and would best suit those with a sense of adventure and a taste for mountaineering. A real Queensland test piece for those seeking to up their game for bigger expeditions.

Approach: Once on the landing below the face, traverse/bushbash along the face towards a large rock apron and follow that down, and then you'll come to a part which gets exposed. Here you climb straight up too a bushy ledge (tricky moves) and easily follow the rock along for 50m. Here you'll find the start of the climb.

1. 25m (19) A rude introduction ... Starts nice and hard straight of the deck. Follow bolts up over multiple cruxes to rings on a very small ledge.

2. 25m (20) Head out right around bulge. Climb straight over it if you're feeling strong. Move up over a nice slab and into what would be fun climbing if it weren't falling apart to rings on a small ledge.

3. 20m (20) Follow bolts through two overhangs and again, pleasant slabs in the middle. The first overhang can be easily avoided by climbing right. Belay at small ledge.

4. 25m (16) This pitch continues up the rock cone then breaks right towards the main face and up a chimney. Near the top the route breaks out right of the chimney to a ledge with precariously balanced tree.

5. 15m (18) Okay, now we're talkin'! The climbing really improves from here on, with the rock quality mostly improving. Intricately traverse out up and right over delicate slabs. Small stance at the belay. This pitch requires a confident seconder as the falls would be very exciting for them. It's best not to link this with the next pitch.

6. 20m (21) This pitch has good bolting, nice falls, and wicked exposure. Definitely a stand-out pitch. Climb up through some sustained and interesting vertical face climbing.

7. 20m (21) A really cool pitch with the most exposed boulder problem you'll find in SEQ! It's not as death-blockey as it used to be, but it's still worth caution. Climb up to the roof and clip the hidden bolt just over the lip. Don't touch the loose blocks under the overhang unless you want to kill your seconder and yourself. Tricky moves over the roof and continue for a couple of bolts. When it starts to get too vegetated, bust a couple exciting powerful moves out left through the overhang over hundreds of metres of air ... From here you should see the belay rings above a shrub. A few more strong moves will get you to the semi-hanging belay.

8. 20m (18) Hard moves straight of the deck, with ugly falls if you don't make it to the first bolt. Continue up through some interesting vertical climbing. Surprise, surprise, beware of some loose rock.

9. 25m (14) The first give-me pitch! Beware of ledge fall potential at points. The pitch ends at the top of the large centre overhangs at good sized vegetated ledge.

10. 15m (17) Tricky climbing up to a good belay stance.

11. 20m (21) More tricky climbing that traverses out slight right to a large corner. Some crazy traverse moves will find you on the other side ... somehow. Continue straight up (next bolt is hidden) to belay rings. As you climb this pitch the "Pope's Nose" bivy ledge is off to the right.

12. 20m (20) Climb up through the corner over a slight overhang. At some points you can climb out right to avoid the difficult parts. Continue to the top over lots of worrying loose rock and vegetation. The next belay stance is a good size located underneath the summit overhangs.

13. 20m (22) Business time. It's best to link both crux pitches together, for a mega final push. Climb up to the right through the terrible rotten rock. Difficult moves through the overhang and traversing right with good falls and really interesting technical moves while the rock improves. Straight up over a tricky mantle. Here you get the full exposure that the East Face offers. Continue up to the belay. Best linked with the next pitch.

14. 20m (22) Follow the ramp to the below the last overhang. This section has some bad fall potential, but hosts the most spectacular climbing on The Governor. I won't spoil it for you. Belay at small stance above tree.

15. 30m (14) The last glory pitch to the summit! Nice slab climbing to the belay rings. This pitch finishes 2-meters below the South East Ridge track.

Great limestone-esque climbing up face and corner L of flying buttress. Good route but take a rappel device for the last climber as the anchors are mallions that twist the rope so a rappel is advised. Will be fixed in due course.

Beautiful orange rock, tricky crux.

Brilliant, the way to go if you can climb the grade. Up the finger crack without bridging. Note: There have been several serious accidents on this route due to "perfectly placed" cams ripping out of the crack in the first 10m.

One of the first 23s in Australia! Although previously downgraded, this route has lost none of its spice over the years. Up the brilliant V-groove with phenomenally classy bridging and face work, capped by a desperate mantle on to the ledge. From here, grunt up the classic off-width to an easy finish! Originally aided by Staszewski and Killop, they backed off realizing that a better climber might one day free this amazing line. All were stunned and inspired when it was freed by Henry Barber. The initial corner has a fair bit of loose feeling rock, take care.

Done by Coral Bowman (US) in 1976, when it was 21, likely the first female ascent at this grade in AU.

Fun, steep monkeying on amazingly solid funk! Committing and rewarding. Start on chossy shelf a metre to the left of TOAGB on U bolts. Trend slightly left after the third bolt to the fourth just to the right of the roof, and make sure you don't miss the fifth bolt (use a long quickdraw), which is hiding above one of the rooflets.

Start 2m L of 'Nadir'.

Climb past 3 FHs to the DBB.

R of the steep manky crack. A couple of cruxes. The original line moves right and up thru a technical fingery crux and wild dyno. Some climbers prefer to climb the juggy crack instead.

Same start as NATM, left hand line leading to NATM anchors. Bouldery crux with great climbing either side. Bomber rock.

Steep continuous jugging! Stickclip high first bolt in roof. Use long draws. Up past a couple of bolts then exposed traverse right under roof before heading up to the anchors on slab.

Start 2m L of 'Gobble'. Marked "SQ".

Sparsely bolted and therefore less often climbed than it would otherwise be. Up past high RB to 2nd RB at start of headwall. Climb headwall clipping 3rd RB to ledge. Climb the arete on the R to the top.

Starting in the corner just to the left of 'Little Wednesday'.

Sit Start in the middle of the boulder with left hand on a full hand pinch and right on a small pocket, push up and latch to the next pocket above followed by an array of nice pockets to choose on your way to the top.

Fun jug traverse across face.

The first climb immediately on your left as you sight the Thunderdome. Gentle start to some excellent technical climbing for the grade. Stick clip the 1st bolt and take care at the 4th. Go straight up around the 7th bolt for full value, ignoring the ledge rest far out left.

Start at base of flake (same start as TIE Fighter) at the back of the cave, traverse left along flakes to finish at big jug on arete.

Start: 2 Metres left of 'Prima Diva'

Fun, pumpy, punchy climbing on great rock up the short steep wall.

Stand start with a decent two finger lock, then get your feet up and it's over.

Start up the gap between the overhangs, 2m R of 'Pre Menstrual Tendons'.

Easy climbing past 2 RBs, then pass flake with optional gear placements that make the run out less harrowing. Finish over crux overhang with 2 RBs to DBB.

Vague prow right of tree. Hard start eases to nice face, punchy finish.

Dappled face veering R to a tricky clip at the 5th bolt, then directly up into the cave. Don't finish here! Use a very long draw then up and R onto the giant fang with a bolt on the tip, questing heroically to the anchors on the headwall.

Stand-start on right hand side of slab using obvious foot, straight-up.

2m left of Minotaur. Up technical chimney to rooflet. Around this and up face. FH’s. Some love it, some hate it.

Stand-start on small iron-stone edges and ok feet, straight up.

Start in cave below the painted 9 and move up to R without using large boulder to the R. Straight up arête above painted O.

...because you know i will find you. Start up the open corner left of Palsy steming left onto the face at the forth bolt. Thought provoking moves deliver you to crux boulder problem through small roof bulge before laybacking up offwidth crack to anchor in black rock.

Stand-start using good edges and big foot above the left hand side of the small cave. Trend up and a little right.

Powerful overhung climbing

Start: Start 2 metre left of 'Awesome Wells' directly below ledge and anchors.

This is the landmark orange corner just right of Clemency's third pitch black corner, and visible from miles away. Superb climbing. Up the amazing corner and pumpy headwall above.

Access: Climb a Celestial wall multi to Halfway House, rap down Clemency and swing R over to the Caritas anchors around corner. Climbing Divergence then Tested Twisticle (right) or (left) will also get you there.

Exit: 2x raps with a 60m from the belay anchor, or belay up your second then scramble roped up onto the Halfway House Ledge and rap down Clemency.

Stand start, move right on blocky slopy holds

Start in crack left of CC, finish on jugs above MF.

Super balancy slab.

Start 2m R of 'Pig City'.

Follow the line of 3 left-trending FHs. The crux is mounting the bulge. Shares 3rd FH & chains with 'Pig City'.

Start 6m left of Groundhog Day. Up the overhanging corner traversing left to clip the shared lower-off with No Membership Required.

Sit start using good holds, big move to the good hold at the top. Stand or jump start to the good top hold for a V0

Start 4m R of 'Wrath of Grapes'.

Up small ledges to very high BR. Continue past 2nd BR to ledge at half height. On up tough headwall past BR & FH to top.

Start 1m R of usual 'Euthanasia' start.

WARNING: potential for a big groundfall before reaching the 2nd bolt. Straight up to roof, reach left and clip 1st BR on 'Euthanasia'. Then over roof and on to arete. Rejoin 'Euthanasia' at its 3rd BR. Also, there is a large loose, wobbly block in the bulgy crux section. Beware.

Standing start straight up on crappy slopers for interesting mantle. Sit start at V4.

Start with both hands on the ledge under the moveable chockstone (which is now gone?), then straight up left onto the next ledge to match. A thin traverse follows along the obvious horizontal crack until you reach the ledge far left on the boulder face. From there straight up to the top.

Start bunched in low break. Out to lip and throw right for decent hold.

Start at the R end of Olos slab. Marked "C+M".

Thin moves on slab following 3 BRs then up shallow corner in headwall past 2 BRs to DBB shared with 'Surrender'. Staying true to the route requires staying off both 'The Olos Slab' and the 'Surrender' arete, resulting in a pretty contrived climb.

Starts two metres left of TPPP in corner crack. Climbs easily up crack till prow is reached at second bolt (optional small cam beneath second bolt). Tough move through prow and sustained climbing follows, which trends slightly left the whole way. Lower off just before ledge.

Cue the 70s porn music. Up wall to ledge below roof (2 BRs), then great roof jugs past a FH. Move around the lip (crux) and clip the second FH then onto ledge with double ring rap station.

Crouch start 2m left of Chopsticks matched on left-most hold at the lip. Punch up right for slopey crimps and massive sidepull, then mantle. Traverse right and topout to the right of the fern.

FH's. Often wet, but the key holds remain dry. You'll be surprised. It climbs better than it looks. Half a star.

Start: 2m left of Lava Tube under cave. Slab for first 2 bolts into cave and 3rd FH. Get all tangled up getting to the 4th FH and turn the lip. Continues straight up to chains. 7 FHs

…but not forgotten. Several years earlier, Monteith placed a BR off to the R of this route but discarded it. It took the persistence (and jiggery-pokery!) of Box to get the line bolted and sent.

Start 50m or so R along the cliff from the 'Acid' area at some blocky orange roofs.

Five RBs lead up the overhanging orange rock. The climbing is quite bizarre. A rap station is located on the big ledge above and to the R of the last overhang.

Four metres right of Alex In Wonderland head up to a bolt via a hollow sounding flake and then on to a small ledge on the right. Left and up past two more bolts. SLCD belay. Rap as for Alex In Wonderland.

Sit start as per Ear using undercling's in mouth to traverse across face and topping out on Lobe (keep feet out of Mouth and Bum Hole)

An excellent and absorbing climb. This climb relies more on balance and technique than power, and is essentially one big balance problem. The gear is thin and spaced.

Sit start out of the bum hole then as for Mouth. A magnificently worthwhile addition to a proud line.

Face and blunt arete just L of crack. Joins COYS in cave.

Two finger hold up high for R and small L sidepull at start. Throw high to L and then large hold, easy top out.

# Important to have long R arm for sit start.

Through the brutal overhang on a variety of holds then fight through the difficult bulge to the top

Low start on arete, Big throw to a Slopey jug at the lip or some fiddly moves on crap holds and then up to same, then up and mantle on slopers.

Start compressed between the arete and right sloper, then up and over the top.

The new warm up.

Start as for Bouncy Castle, up past first 2 bolts of BC to small rooflet, up over this (clip BC's bolts as protection) & finish up easy wall at BC's anchors.

Not an enjoyable route & run-out from the 2nd bolt.

Start with right hand pinching arete, pull on and up arete, using the 'Dyno' hold if you want.

Brilliant climbing up a very classy line. The grade is 21 if you blast up the side and skip the diabolically thin start of WAIH! From the ledge, motor up the orange-faced corner system on great locks and better pro. At the rooflet, step R around the arete and follow the obvious line to the top. Rope drag can really be an issue on this climb. Twin ropes or long slings recommended.

2m L of SOT, moving up through the large undercling (FH). Over bulge (FH) and finish as for SOT (up the arête past a BR), alternatively gain an extra star by finishing up SOF's pocketed headwall.

What a whopper of a move! Start 8m right of previous route. Reachy moves all the way, shorties be warned! Balance your way up to big moves above the roof then continue past several ring bolts to anchor.

Start: At the top of 'Heliosphere'.

A long, exciting pitch.

Start up Procrastinator, head right and join into Slider via an additional traverse bolt. Finish the link-up at Slider's chains.

Start 5m L of 'De Shrünkenklimb'.

Follow the 3 FHs then traverse L to the DBB shared with 'Bijou'. Consider stickclipping the 1st bolt.

Start on the Gravel Pit jug, traverse right past the TIE Fighter flake, then continue right moving slightly up on jugs and pockets for hands, heel hooks and toe cams for feet. Then climb Horned Banthas to its finishing jug. With this many moves, it would be more appropriately graded 22.

The bolted orange corner.

The first bolted route at Frog! Kim Carrigan promptly skipped the bolt on the second ascent, reclaiming the hardness of Frog from the bolt-clipping infidels! Starts at the small crack 3m L of MPFC (although most parties start from the ledge above). Off-balance moves up the thin diagonal crack to an awkward move into a sentry box to gain a rest. From here, clip the bolt, step R, and blast straight up the face to easier ground.