Routes in South East for selected grade

Climb Nicabate on RBs and SLCDs to the curly tree. Stretch out R to clip RB on face. Traverse 4 m directly R under the bolt (kneebars!) until you reach the holds that are good enough to pull the lip on. Pull the lip, then up the gully past the broken stump. Traverse R onto Trireme’s exposed arete and climb this (runout) to tree belay. Lots of long quickdraws prevent rope drag. The seconder must carry prussiks!

The route starts just L of the second RB on the fixed rope traverse. Crank up into cave. Lean out and clip RB on lip. Monkey up into easy ground. Run up corner past tree and get situated under roof, clipping RB on bulge. A gut-busting boulder problem into the corner (#2 SLCD) and up carefully to tree belay.

Stickclip high RB and power up overhung bowl. Up arête past second RB to ledge. Finish up No Idea's DF on the arête. See topo 5.

Stunning quality, an absolute classic. Start on the ledge above and R of the start to Infinity. Steep jamming and locking leads to a pronounced crux rounding the bulge. Great gear, a little spaced at the crux, but completely bombproof. Finish easily up to the Infinity chains.

1. 25m Shares the first two bolts of Odessa.

2. 25m

3. 30m

4. 30m This pitch is mixed. Take some offset nuts, some micro cams and a BD number 3.

Simply amazing. A tough start leads to one of the most sustained and awesome climbs imaginable. Take some microcams for the start. The climb itself is a contender for the best route on the cliff, regardless of grade.

Historical register: This route now lies on Riverlife property and lies behind it.

Contrived climbing up the thin wall left of the corner, to a notch in the wall at five metres. Traverse right and finish up the original line.

Near the edge of the slab (two metres right of Summerbreeze) pull onto the wall just left of the shallow groove to a jug/plate. Sling this and up to a bolt. Left and up to step back right at the top of the groove to a second bolt. A reachy move right leads to a jug and sling. Back left and up to tree belay (well back).

Dick Henderson and Scott Camps April 1986

Start: As for SIP, up to first bolt, then downclimb (or just head out right on textured rock & possible small gear) & trend diagonally Right and up to FH, then up face to shared DBB. (2023 update: the chain belay/rap on block 4 has reportedly been chopped.)

What some used to consider a good route has since been rendered obsolete by a tree.

1. 12m (22) Start 3m R of 'Gut Punch The Buddha, The arching crackline on natural gear. Finishes on the large triangle ledge the shares a anchor with The Court Jester's first pitch.

2. 25m (23) Directly above anchor. Two FH's protect a few gut-busting moves on small crimps. After that, head up and through placing gear to pull on to easy terrain. R and up on slab for about 15m to spiky bush ledge which hides the anchor. 35m rap to the terrace, or a short rap to Dagda's anchors, then 25m to ground.

Desperate and grunty finger locking up a glass smooth corner then continue up to anchor of Fat Mattress. It can be made considerably easier by use of the "secret" foot jamming technique. Buy Rob a beer at the pub for all the info!

Start: LH column.

Tricky move to the first FH, then hard moves to the 2nd FH (crux), up past a 3rd FH to a horizontal crack, tricky moves up to a bolt on the LHS of the arête, then cruise up to top and TB 5m behind pillar.

(FHs marked on topo. Horizontal break at 3/4 height is good for medium sized cams.)

Start 4m R of 'Wrath of Grapes'.

Up small ledges to very high BR. Continue past 2nd BR to ledge at half height. On up tough headwall past BR & FH to top.

number 3 BD is needed for the start.

Start: At the prominent arete at the South end of block 2. Up the arete on small gear to BR, then to shared DBB passing a second BR. (2023 update: the chain belay/rap on block 4, has reportedly been chopped.)

Up the blunt arete to the R of CW. Delicate and strenuous moves past 2 bolts. Veer L here with much difficulty and moaning to put a runner in CW to keep things sane. Continue up past 2 more bolts to the top.

A good second pitch to the two previous routes. The ridiculously blank looking corner 5m L of KL with 2 pitons is where this mission starts! From there continue desperately until it is possible to wobble R to easier ground. Step L when able to, and finish steeply up the L side of the arete. Double ropes are thoroughly recommended for this lead.

A tribute to hard grit. See topo 2. Use two ropes. Start up Orange Overhang, then head R up the rippled slab to sitdown rest beneath the overhang. Plug in lots of gear and clip on second rope, dropping first rope. Climb through overhang and up sustained overhung line to top.

Start: On the large flake at the base of the RH column.

Up to a bolt at 3m height, hard climbing past another bolt to a good horizontal crack, up the thin face, passing a FH to the next horizontal crack, then past a bolt to the top and DBB.

(Small to medium sized cams.)

From Voyevoda walk past the un-named 16 layback crack for 40 metres, drop down to the left for 20 metres, and then continue for another 15 metres until a steep slab is found on the right. (Confused??? ☺)

A hard slab. Up corner on the right for a few moves. Follow flake out left and up to bolt and hard moves. Follow good holds till they fade, then traverse right till the angle eases after five metres or so. Climb straight up carefully to the top.

The dark corner capped by a small triangular rooflet really deserves to be more popular. Difficult and bold climbing on good gear leads to a tough move around the roof. A tough finger crack finishes off this classy route.

Quite challenging. A hard start to an off-width crack. From here blast up a pleasant finger crack taking a well-earned rest on a ledge. Jam up to a tree, then climb a fear-inducing face to easy finish.

Start: Below yellow corner; straight crack, Left of Asps Only. Intimidating crackline.

The overhanging fist crack between Big Friday and Passage.

Finish as for Passage. Plenty of gear is available in the passage section so resist the urge to clip bolts for maximum Trad Lass/Lad points.

Bold and strenuous climbing with not much in the way of good protection! Start at the crack just R of Faki on brilliant thin hand jamming. Fron here, pack your spare undies, move up the arete for a move or two, and then R and up through the bulge! Although there is adequate pro (just), it is still a very serious proposition.

Blast up for a few moves then traverse L to a diagonal crack. Strenuous jams that don't quite work as well as you want to provide barrels of fun! The steep hand crack above is superb!

Start on vertical white beach between Nicabate and Via Ferupper.

1. Work out the boulder throw, once established on the beach wall, progress up through first overhang on what can only be loosely described as rock to gain double RB belay under second overhang.

2. Up and R from belay using plenty of SLCDs to protect from a ledge fall. Clip RB over lip and proceed to pull the lip on jugs, up to third roof. Belay from here or just continue on.

3. Check out the giant nostril under the nose, very cool geological feature. Be a hero and climb over the very tip of the nose, mere mortal may divert to the right to gain the upper arete which has stunning climbing on a leaning arete. This is an adventure in steep thuggee climbing but is spoilt somewhat by the sandy nature of the rock on the first pitch.

A crack somewhere here.

"At Maggie's Farm, McGregor has added Broken Wings 22."

(Thrutch mag #69 Nov/Dec 1976.)

Brilliant climbing up the dark corner to the R of Christian. Up easily for 7m to a stance. Release a blood-curdling howl and tear up the hard lay back line to the top like a frenzied madman! Technical jamming and layback sequences provide thoroughly absorbing and sustained movement all the way. Milk the rest at half height, as that's all you get. From the ledge at the top, one hard move onto the wall and you can step L onto Plume Ledge. Finish here, or get extra "old school points" by thrashing up the final wide groove above.

Four metres right of Alex In Wonderland head up to a bolt via a hollow sounding flake and then on to a small ledge on the right. Left and up past two more bolts. SLCD belay. Rap as for Alex In Wonderland.

Initialled. Starts at the L of the white scoop. Up thin vertical flakes. Move L onto the big protruding horn, FH. Hard move up and onto the face with BR. Up tending R to the cave and through the centre of the roof (hidden BR). Take assorted wires and slings.

Really tough finger crack boulder problem to start. The good climbing ends here. If you must...continue up the body chimney for extra "old school" status!

The second corner L from the ledge. Extend the belay down to the lower ledge. Crank through the roofy section (SLCD's) into the corner. Thankfully clip a RB on L, then good moves to top out on easy ground, then 10m of easy climbing to the top.

The thin crack just Left of TM. Up this to ledge & TB.

Done by Coral Bowman (US) in 1977, likely the first female ascent at this grade in AU.

The crack 8m left (up the slope) of IP, initialed "CK". The only trad line here. Follow the crack-line up. Tree belay. Recommended you use tape or gloves, due to the sharp crystalline nature of the crack.

Start: About 40-50m downhill from TRHFD.

Unknown details of route. Height & grade are guesstimates.

Up the wall to the R of OG. Not done very often. Up the initial corner, which is quite technical and interesting. Rest at the ledge and then blast up the thin seam past 2 ancient pitons. Not the best route around.

Start: 3m right of Patience Crack. Up slab on small gear to headwall, up this passing 5 FHs to shared chains. Often wet.

Brilliant climbing up a very classy line. The grade is 21 if you blast up the side and skip the diabolically thin start of WAIH! From the ledge, motor up the orange-faced corner system on great locks and better pro. At the rooflet, step R around the arete and follow the obvious line to the top. Rope drag can really be an issue on this climb. Twin ropes or long slings recommended.

From the ledge, crank up the RHS of the orange, overhanging ‘shark’s fin’ past four RB’s. Crank through the roof, and continue up the headwall (RB’s and gear – green alien and #3.5 SLCD).

"Egg Everett & Rick White did Black Magic Woman 22, Right of Tough Mamma."

(Thrutch mag #72 Sept/Oct 1977.)

(Possibly the thin crack 1m Right of TM?)

This route links up a combination of routes to form an exciting multi in it's own right.

1. 20m Climb Divergence then choose one of the following.

2. 35m Climb Tested Twistical (Left) 17 or Tested Twisticle (Right) 18

3. 18m Climb Caritas.

Exit: A 70m rope will get you back to the ground in two raps or scramble roped up from Caritas anchor to Halfway House and Rap down Clemency.

Variant finish to 'Dream of Purple Peach Popsicles' and by far the better way to go. Avoid the final chimney by stepping onto the R face and up past a bolt. Great exposure and brilliant crimpers make this the preferred way to go!

Same start as for Raptures first pitch then following the prominent crack rightwards to Trojans belay. Great pro and jams.

Start at the broken holds in front of the sign, just right of Piles & left of Cox's Edge. Thin moves to a very high first bolt (carrot), NOT using the big ledges out right. Up the face to gain the small ledge 7-8m up, standing on this, big reach to clip first bolt, more thin moves up to a big ledge & bomber trad gear (small cams), up flake (more gear: offset nuts + ballnuts), to high 2nd bolt, then top-out to Piles anchors.

Tough. A dyno off the ground sets the theme. Follow this up the arete past 2 bolts. Hard not to step into Pollux. Finish on Theory Ledge.

Up the thin finger crack-line to the dead tree, skirt this, then top-out. Natural belay + tree belay. One of the best finger cracks on Maroon.

Simply amazing finger locking up the line that bisects the blank wall L of Warlock. There are 2 very distinct cruxes on this thoroughly enjoyable and sustained outing. Easier moves up the final chimney to finish at the rap chain. A 60m rope will get you back down in style.

Climb the crack on natural gear to the juggy 1m roof. Clip BR around lip, then pull through to face above. Up to ledge. Final wall (BR) to tree. Rap off. At the moment it's vegetated and needs cleaning.

Start: Starts about 15m L of "CAC" at crackline running through the middle of the wall below the roof.

Hard and thin. Blast up the unbelievably thin line directly above Theory. Bridge, layback, levitate and slap your way to the top. Quite a serious route.

Unknown

Historical register: This route now lies on Riverlife property and lies behind it.

More contrived climbing. Climb Gash Flash VS & at the notch, continue up the arete placing gear in the Gash Flash crack.

Follow Figjams parallel crack until possible to blast straight up for the triangular feature and mantel out. Sinisters anchor to the right. Great holds and gear.

You will need to eat your spinach for this one! Two ropes are the key to success on this exposed and wandering route. Layaway the arete R of Warlock and up delicately to a stance. Up to the thin orange corner capped by a roof. Step R just before the roof, up, and gain a wobbling stance on the left wall. Control your leg's desire to impersonate Elvis, and climb L up the exposed and steep face towards the hanging flake. Flop onto the ledge and hoot for joy!

Not bad but not one to plan your whole day around either. Climb the line R of DDE up a thin crack to a rest on a sloping ledge. From here up a flake and past a piton (hand sized cams essential).

Follow the thin crack as shown on the topo. Varied crack & face climbing.

Historic route description included here for posterity - this route is on & behind Riverlife property.

Start: Just Left of Tode Mode. Up wall trending Right past two BR's to Tode Mode's ledge. Finish up Tode Mode's crack to top. A barbed wire fence once existed below this climb making falls a scary proposition!

Update: As of June 2017 the "magic block" is gone! Grade and description are awaiting an update. Take care with all the hanging blocks in the vicinity of the roof.

Very photogenic climbing up the only line here that has anything close to a roof! Up the initial blank corner with loads of class to a rest at the "magic block". Fire up and hand traverse R into the void! A hand to fist-sized cam at the lip keeps things sane. Spicy moves above to the top.

Traverse. Start up 'Pocket Calculator' to 3rd bolt, then step left for 365m to finish up at 'The Olos Slab'. A fun day out, but really why would you unless you have a lot of time on your hands?

The line between Hell's Angel and Easy Rider leading to the top of Angel Rider. Thin, fiddly gear at low crux, take lots of gear around green alien size and some micro wires. Grade will vary on the length of your limbs or size of your blinkers as Douglas was able to reach Easy Rider at points. Climbs the best rock on this wall, no idea why it wasn't done before.

A technical and risky climb, although the difficulties are not sustained. Up 'Phatang' for 3m, then desperately R to a ledge and hard mantle. Continue easily up for a while, until a short hard corner section gives your nerves a final jolt! Easily after that to the top.

Super hard concave crack up a smooth face to a ledge.

This route was climbed on the 10th anniversary of the discovery of Frog. The gear is excellent but spacious; however, stopping to place it makes things a lot more exciting! Up the obvious line R of TGON featuring very technical face and crack climbing moves to the stance. Follow a thin seam as the difficulties gradually ease to the top.

2m R of AWITG. Filthy and lichenous. To see any action this route would need a thorough cleaning and bolting. Starts at the obvious undercling then straight up the wall on worsening slopes. Crux at 4.5m.

A confused and dangerous variation of Delilah. Solo up the micro seam 2m L of Impulse, joining the line Delilah. Mantle the same hard move then R at the next ledges into a groove. Climb on and finish as for Delilah.

Start on the Skylark ledge. Into the far left corner, up the crack (gear), then a few short hard moves past a BR & FH on the overhanging wall. Belay or lower from tree with chain.

I'm sure in Yosemite this would be grade 16. Starts R of corner at the offwidth crack. Climb the 4m offwidth (#5 camalot) to ledge, then walk off L. The headwall finish passing the very dodgy bolt (placed by an earlier party) is uncompleted. Using the fig tree is not allowed.

Brittle start up wall beside SC. Hug your way up the slim buttress between SB and SC, passing 4 BR. Exit via the chimney at the back of detached buttress to the chain above Smoked Banana

A couple of metres left. This climb has a very obvious face up the top covered in hundreds of pockets. Tricky overhung start past an RB onto deceptive slab with smallish SLCD. #4 SLCD in wide break, then up and clip SOT's RB out L with long sling. Now that excellent pocketed wall with 2 more RBs to the top.

Weird climbing up the L side of Borderline 29 arete. Not bad but there are only a few short moves of class.

The blank inside corner, just R of Sticks & Stones. Up this on thin gear, carefully over the hollow flakes (bassdrum), surmount the overhang, then boldly up the arete, passing a lonely BR (10m run-out).

Excellent climbing on an outstanding mixed route nestled amongst the trees. Start on trad following the obvious splitter but beware of the 4m section of crumbly choss, don't rely on gear placements here. Climb gingerly through the choss then the splitter gets solid again offering great hand jams till the crack ends at the ledge. From the ledge finish the route as sport (3 bolts + chain anchor) continuing up the left rounded arete on thin holds with crux finish. The crack goes at around 17-18 and the arete finish goes at 22.

The variant finish to SB is a very classy little outing. Climb up SB to the overhang. Take a large breath, step L up and around the overhang to a carrot bolt. Follow the line staying on the arete and up a thin crack to the top.

To start, skip the crack but and go right to through the steep bulge past bolt. Merge left with Straight to the Pool Room and finish up headwall.

As for SOF to second RB at pocketed wall. Up a move or two then veer L to arête. Up this exposed arête.