Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | |||
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Fri 30th Oct 2020 - Flinders Peak (limited access) | ||||||
Sanctuary | ||||||
22 | ★ Welcome To The Thunderdome | 22m, 9 | ★★★ Classic | |||
This is one of the most recent lines to be put up, and I reckon it’s one of the best! Pretty solid at 22. Great route Jack!
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21 20 | ★★ The Alchemist | 22m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Nice route. Difficult at 11am getting blasted by the sun! Maybe 22?
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Thu 1st Oct 2020 - Flinders Peak (limited access) | ||||||
Sanctuary | ||||||
21 20 | ★★ Nostrildamus | 18m, 8 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Amazing route, good job Matty
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24 | ★★★ Two Men Enter, One Man Leaves | 15m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Full body workout, punted at the anchors. You’ll see
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21 20 | ★★ The Alchemist | 22m | ★★ Very Good | |||
2nd ascent run, hold broke near the top 😂
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17 | ★ History Never Repeats | 30m | ★ Good | |||
Nice engaging slab
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26 25 | ★★ Good as Gold | 25m, 9 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Amazing route, can’t wait to get back on it. I actually think I would have flashed this, had I not been on a gentleman’s sit attempt. Made it through all the business clean and remembered it hadn’t been sent yet so said take at the start of the slab. too gassed for a 2nd or 3rd shot send. Must do.
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21 | ★★ We Can Be Heroes | 18m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Great climb
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23 20 | ★ Bold as Brass | 13m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Awesome position, ending is a bit contrived but overall a great climb
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24 | ★★ Blood Moon | 20m | ★ Good | |||
Early OS attempt foiled after the business by a rogue loose boi. Haven’t been back to it yet. Looks much better now after a few more ascents.
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25 | FA ★★ Metamorphosis | 22m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | |||
FFA. Wish this was more continuous, but it’s still a great climb. My sequence for the low section turned out to be sub-optimal and consequently knocked a grade off after the other boys worked out a better way.
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23 | FA ★★ Darklight | 24m | ★★ Very Good | |||
FFA. Felt like I was squeezing this in when I did it, turned out to be a great little techy nugget
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21 | ★★ COVID Light (Asymptomatic) | 22m | ★★ Very Good | |||
The line of least resistance
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22 | ★★ Covid-22 | 22m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Sensational route
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24 | ★★ Yesterday's Hero | 22m | ★★ Very Good | |||
A lot more to this than it looks. Awesome climbing through the bulge
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24 | FA ★★ Desert Treasure | 24m, 9 | ★★★ Classic | |||
FFA. Nice surprise how good this turned out!
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25 | FA ★★ Antipoison | 15m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
FFA. Awesome position. Fingery, technical and bouldery
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21 | ★★★ Lock Stock | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Completely blank except for what you need. Great!
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19 | ★★ Catastrophist | 20m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Great climb up a cool tower. Gentleman sit when jack bolted it then repeated later because it’s great!
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Wed 14th Aug 2019 - Flinders Peak (limited access) | ||||||
The Secret Cave | ||||||
28 | ★★★ Event Horizon | 14m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Done all the moves now although need to refine the top section. Also need to actually train!
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Sat 27th Jul 2019 - Flinders Peak (limited access) | ||||||
The Secret Cave | ||||||
28 | ★★★ Event Horizon - with Danny John | 14m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Picked this as my get back on the horse project. Steep, fingery and punchy. Got some work to do!
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Sat 20th Jul 2019 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
West of the access track | ||||||
15 | ★ Bad Company - with nathan mcneil | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Tough for 15, Nath did a great job on lead.
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19 | ★★ Hollywood Rattlesnake - with nathan mcneil | 18m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Greasy in the sun but still great.
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18 | ★★ Angel Rider - with nathan mcneil | 50m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Good old Frog!
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Sun 9th Dec 2018 - Flinders Peak (limited access) | ||||||
The Secret Cave | ||||||
26 | ★★ The Stolen Jigsaw Puzzle | 15m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | |||
A very worthy addition IMO, got it first shot- though the transfer is only 1 move so I didn’t need any new beta- could be a great one to send first if you’re transistioning from 25-27.
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22 | ★★ Dark Side Of The Moon | 20m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | |||
I feel bad I took so long to do this one- it’s excellent, better than the original in my opinion, plus more consistent and slightly harder. Get in it!
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Sun 20th Aug 2017 - Flinders Peak (limited access) | ||||||
The Secret Cave | ||||||
26 27 | ★★★ Second Base With Grandma - with Thomas Cramer | 20m, 11 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Really fun, joins the best bits of 2 routes via some great pockets. Whoevers draws are on at the moment, I think the ending is way easier if you clip the second last bolt early from the double kneebar, and then skip the last and power through rather than vice versa. Nice one Dan!
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Mon 14th Aug 2017 - The Pulpit (private land) | ||||||
Back Wall | ||||||
27 | ★★ Friends with benefits - with Jack Kilsby | 24m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Had 4 goes of Duncan's version of this. It does make sense if you're gonna climb a link to make it go as far as possible! Some spicy runout traverses from Tongue and Groove to OS. Perhaps we need to name ANOTHER link up route ? Vain Friends? Benifits of Vanity?
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Sun 9th Jul 2017 - The Pulpit (private land) | ||||||
Back Wall | ||||||
20 | ★ Honey Eater (Billy Bunter) - with Jack Kilsby | 20m | ★ Good | |||
20 | ★★ The Brothers Grimm - with Jack Kilsby | 20m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
21 | ★★ Rumplestiltskin p1 - with Jack Kilsby | 20m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
24 | ★★ Orange Slice - with Jack Kilsby | 20m | ||||
24 | ★★ Grab The Draw (Add The Draw) - with Jack Kilsby | 20m | ||||
Twice
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25 | ★★ Tongue And Groove - with Jack Kilsby | 20m, 6 | ||||
Good to clean this up first attempt, almost messed it up coming into 2HRS but got there in the end.
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26 | ★★ Countdown - with Jack Kilsby | 18m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Nice, with the more direct/ straighter ending without the left holds.
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Sun 25th Jun 2017 - The Pulpit (private land) | ||||||
Back Wall | ||||||
27 | ★★★ Bent wing bat p2 (Gay Abandon p2) - with Jack Kilsby | 20m | ★★★ Classic | |||
First shot of the day! Had done the bottom half about 5 times clean while trying gaylord, 2nd time ever on the top half. The climbing on the top arête is amazing and committing, highly reccomend this route!. Could do with a bolt upgrade to the last 2 bolts, so we're no longer clipping flattened, spinning bolt plates from the dark ages..
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Sat 22nd Apr 2017 - The Pulpit (private land) | ||||||
Back Wall | ||||||
26 | ★★ Mugwump p1 - with Kurt Doherty | 14m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Happy to re tick this first shot today.
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20 | ★★ The Brothers Grimm | 20m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
21 | ★★ Rumplestiltskin p1 | 20m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
24 | ★★ Orange Slice | 20m | ★★★ Classic | |||
24 | ★★ Grab The Draw (Add The Draw) | 20m | ★★★ Classic | |||
25 | ★★★ Particle Man | 45m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Sent this about a year ago with Duncan but never logged. Re tick first shot today, loved it. Such a great route
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21 | ★★ Twisting By The Pool (Fisting By The Pool) | 22m, 4 | ★★★ Classic | |||
It'sa spicy meata ballla! But great.
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20 | ★ Honey Eater (Billy Bunter) | 20m | ★ Good | |||
Fri 14th Apr 2017 - The Pulpit (private land) | ||||||
Back Wall | ||||||
25 | ★★ Two Hours Sleep | 20m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Thu 13th Apr 2017 - The Pulpit (private land) | ||||||
Back Wall | ||||||
26 | ★★ Countdown | 18m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
28 | ★★★ Beautiful Thing | 16m, 5 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
For old times sake
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Sun 26th Feb 2017 - Flinders Peak (limited access) | ||||||
The Secret Cave | ||||||
27 | ★★★ Second Base With Grandma - with Dan Mackenzie, kingo | 20m, 11 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Dan let me check out his new route. It's great!
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24 | ★★ Grandma Aragog's Boob - with Dan Mackenzie, kingo | 12m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Nice to clean this up first shot, After trying it once almost 6 months ago
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29 | ★★ Desperado - with Dan Mackenzie, kingo | 30m, 12 | ★★★ Classic | |||
EOD destroyer.. to the crux throw clean, then airborne
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26 | ★★★ The French Connection - with Dan Mackenzie, kingo | 20m, 9 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Another great route I never got around to doing. First try today.
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28 | ★★ Flapperado (FCUK Too) - with Dan Mackenzie, kingo | 32m, 15 | ||||
Kept going after French connection.. made it a few bolts before melting
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25 | ★★ Wet Jigsaw Puzzle - with Dan Mackenzie, kingo | 15m, 7 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Warm up, still love this route.
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27 | ★★★ Like a Man on Pepperoni - with Dan Mackenzie, kingo | 20m, 9 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Was cool to do this placing the draws.
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Tue 10th Jan 2017 - Flinders Peak (limited access) | ||||||
Sanctuary | ||||||
22 25 | ★★ Riders of the storm | 30m, 13 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Jacks first new route is a cracker! Cruisy but delicate first section (rock either side of the route is still a little friable but will clean up quickly). Gets technical as it steepens to a reachy move which will no doubt have shorties complaining, then great, pumpy climbing to a balance finale at the chain.
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27 | FA ★★★ Purple Lightning | 23m, 12 | ★★★ Classic | |||
FFA. Very hot and humid, hard to grade something in crap conditions but around 27 should be right. Let me know what you think! Some typical flinders funk in here, save some juice for the final roof problem!
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Sun 6th Nov 2016 - Flinders Peak (limited access) | ||||||
The Secret Cave | ||||||
25 | ★★ Wet Jigsaw Puzzle - with Todd Herriott | 15m, 7 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Warm up
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30 29 | ★★★ A Space Odyssey - with Todd Herriott | 25m, 11 | ★★ Very Good | |||
First shot fumble at the crux clip and came off 2 moves later.. second go nailed every move, and though I was tired I squeezed like a bastard til I arrived at the jugs with a dry mouth and stars in my eyes... kneebar til my leg was numb then pumped it to the chain.
Epic, brutal power climbing up this original king line.
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Sat 5th Nov 2016 - Flinders Peak (limited access) | ||||||
The Secret Cave | ||||||
25 | ★★ Wet Jigsaw Puzzle - with Jack Kilsby | 15m, 7 | ★★★ Classic | |||
warm up
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30 29 | ★★★ A Space Odyssey - with Jack Kilsby | 25m, 11 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Oh so close! arrived at the underclings below jug city, didn't bring my heel up BEFORE my right hand and was exploding too much to push through what is a piss easy move off the rope.
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Wed 2nd Nov 2016 - Flinders Peak (limited access) | ||||||
The Secret Cave | ||||||
25 | ★★ Wet Jigsaw Puzzle | 15m, 7 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Warm up
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30 29 | ★★★ A Space Odyssey | 25m, 11 | ★★ Very Good | |||
3 goes, and a few false starts. Couldnt nail the beta when I was fresh and conditions were amazing unfortunately, I just need one or two more sessions with good conditions for 'that clip'..
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Sat 29th Oct 2016 - Flinders Peak (limited access) | ||||||
The Secret Cave | ||||||
27 | ★★★ Like a Man on Pepperoni - with Jack Kilsby | 20m, 9 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Putting a rope up for Jack to take pics
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30 29 | ★★★ A Space Odyssey - with Kurt Doherty, Jack Kilsby | 25m, 11 | ★★ Very Good | |||
First shot, bad. Not warmed up, and spoogy. Worked the moves a bit. 2nd, too spoogy to clip the 3rd. Dogged the clip, then to anchor clean. Sweaty day..
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Sat 22nd Oct 2016 - Flinders Peak (limited access) | ||||||
The Secret Cave | ||||||
25 | ★★ Wet Jigsaw Puzzle - with Lucy Stirling | 15m, 7 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Warm ups
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30 29 | ★★★ A Space Odyssey - with Lucy Stirling, Steve Cooper, Peatey | 25m, 11 | ★★ Very Good | |||
3 burns, 2nd shot went from the crux clip to the anchor clean. 3rd shot went from the ground to the jug at the end of the hard stuff clean! Psyched.
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Sun 16th Oct 2016 - Flinders Peak (limited access) | ||||||
The Secret Cave | ||||||
30 29 | ★★ Desperado | 30m, 12 | ★★★ Classic | |||
2 sits, putting draws up so rob saved his energy
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28 | ★★★ Dr Pepper | 25m | ★★★ Classic | |||
EOD training lap
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30 29 | ★★★ A Space Odyssey - with Tom Reid | 25m, 11 | ★ Good | |||
3 goes, working beta and clipping positions. surprised myself going from the 2nd bolt to the 5th clean on 3rd go!
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Sun 9th Oct 2016 - Flinders Peak (limited access) | ||||||
The Secret Cave | ||||||
30 29 | ★★★ A Space Odyssey | 25m, 11 | ★ Good | |||
EoD. Put the draws up and had a play. The business is only 4 clips long, and it's hard! Little holds, lots of tension. Seems like V8-V9 then the top of Dr Pepper isn't too bad.
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26 | ★★ The Vallecula Groove | 8m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
Fell going to the anchor on the flash.. tricky body position there! 2nd shot all g and kept on trucking for a few clips into the extension but blew up over the lip
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30 29 | ★★ Desperado | 30m, 12 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Draws down!
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Sat 1st Oct 2016 - Flinders Peak (limited access) | ||||||
The Secret Cave | ||||||
24 | ★★ Saxicoline | 20m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Warm up, kept going a few metres toward entergalactic for some fun before jumping off
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30 29 | ★★ Desperado - with Steve Cooper | 30m, 12 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Well..ain't that a great feeling! I usually dog it once to get in the groove a bit.. today I just decided to have a go straight up. Next thing I know, I'm in the air after tickling the last hold! mixed emotions.. wondered if I'd even be able to get up there again the same day. I waiting a bit over an hour, tied in, and set off- latching the crux with only the back 3, kept going, til I was staring down the barrel again.. stabbed blindly over the lip for the slot, one finger missed out again but I was still on! Torquing the heel toe like a bottle opener, I didn't dare try adjust my grip.. "just clip the fucking rope" I thought. And I did. Now it's time for a big ass burger.
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Sat 24th Sep 2016 - Flinders Peak (limited access) | ||||||
The Secret Cave | ||||||
28 | ★★★ Dr Pepper - with Steve Cooper | 25m | ★★★ Classic | |||
EOD pumparama
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30 29 | ★★ Desperado - with foztr | 30m, 12 | ★★★ Classic | |||
2 shots, well- I stuck the crux from the ground finally! But, a combination of surprised/excited fumbling afterward wasted a bit of tension, and after clipping I dropped the big 'easy' Dyno after the crux. So, breakthrough, but no cigar still! Gahh
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Sat 17th Sep 2016 - Flinders Peak (limited access) | ||||||
The Secret Cave | ||||||
28 | ★★★ Dr Pepper | 25m | ★★★ Classic | |||
EOD destruction.. I made it through the last crux, started making kettle boiling sounds, tried to clip telepathically then went flying.
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26 | ★★★ The French Connection | 20m, 9 | ★★★ Classic | |||
I wonder if I'll ever send this route? EOD rescue of Killa Kilsbys draws til his finger heals.
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30 29 | ★★ Desperado | 30m, 12 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Not yet! 4 goes.
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Sun 11th Sep 2016 - Flinders Peak (limited access) | ||||||
The Secret Cave | ||||||
30 29 | ★★ Desperado - with adam demmert, Rob Saunders | 30m, 12 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Managed 4 goes, so that's good. Inching closer, just catch that damn edge already! Managed to climb from the crux to the anchor and clip it on my last burn.. So that's good
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24 | ★★ Saxicoline - with adam demmert, Rob Saunders | 20m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Warm up
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Sun 4th Sep 2016 - Flinders Peak (limited access) | ||||||
The Secret Cave | ||||||
24 | ★★ Saxicoline | 20m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Warm up
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30 29 | ★★ Desperado | 30m, 12 | ★★★ Classic | |||
One dog first up, had a good crack next, same high point but much more convincing. I got my whole hand to the hold but only 2 fingers landed on the positive edge and 2 on the slope.. So I fell. Felt like I was ready to keep chugging though. Second go came up short again as I didn't get the sidepull that good. Pulled back on, stuck the crux even though my feet came off which was surprising, and fell on the last move. Running out of good weather now
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Sun 28th Aug 2016 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
West of the access track | ||||||
19 | ★★★ Infinity - with Duncan Steel † | 40m | ★★★ Classic | |||
I'm so rusty! wobbled and overgripped the whole way.
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19 | ★★★ Thor - with Duncan Steel † | 30m | ★★★ Classic | |||
nearly kooked it stepping left from the rooflet thing just as Alex said gday. I pretended to be cruising of course.
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21 | ★★★ The One That Got Away - with Duncan Steel † | 35m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Great route, looked like a slightly spicy lead
|
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21 | ★★★ Conquistador - with Duncan Steel † | 45m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Awesome! felt really classy and secure on this.
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20 | ★★★ Devils Dihedral - with Duncan Steel † | 45m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
I think I climbed it better on the onsight 2 years ago.. still, great fun.
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Sat 27th Aug 2016 - Flinders Peak (limited access) | ||||||
The Secret Cave | ||||||
27 | ★★★ Like a Man on Pepperoni - with Steve Cooper | 20m, 9 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Up to the 2nd crux you bit for a warm up
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30 29 | ★★ Desperado - with Jack Kilsby, Dan Mackenzie | 30m, 12 | ★★★ Classic | |||
1warm up lap and one attempt. Same high point.
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27 | ★★ Back Stroke of the West - with Dan Mackenzie, Jack Kilsby | 20m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Actually a really great route! Had a great attempt at a flash after belaying Dan, fell off transferring my weight to the jug! Then went to anchor clean. Doh! Second shot no worries.
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Sat 20th Aug 2016 - Flinders Peak (limited access) | ||||||
The Secret Cave | ||||||
25 | ★★ Wet Jigsaw Puzzle - with Steve Cooper | 15m, 7 | ★★★ Classic | |||
A messy, footloose, no kneebar ascent.
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27 | ★★★ Like a Man on Pepperoni - with Steve Cooper | 20m, 9 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Got the beta right for the hard bits, fumbled madly below the last bolt and almost ran out of pump coins.
|
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30 29 | ★★ Desperado - with Steve Cooper, Kurt Doherty | 30m, 12 | ★★★ Classic | |||
2 shots, note to self: don't be dumb and go up without a warm up! Felt a bit weak today..
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26 | ★★★ The French Connection - with Steve Cooper | 20m, 9 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Last climb, STILL never attempted this route fresh. I dunno why. I think its been a year since I last had a go.
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Sat 13th Aug 2016 - Flinders Peak (limited access) | ||||||
The Secret Cave | ||||||
30 29 | ★★ Desperado | 30m, 12 | ★★★ Classic | |||
A warm up go and one send burn, just a quick day before the Boulder comp on Sunday. Same high point of big left throw.
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Sun 7th Aug 2016 - Flinders Peak (limited access) | ||||||
The Secret Cave | ||||||
24 | ★★ Saxicoline - with Jack Kilsby | 20m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Warm up
|
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30 29 | ★★ Desperado - with Jack Kilsby | 30m, 12 | ★★★ Classic | |||
3 goes, after 3 weeks off. First one to get reacquainted, 2nd I had a burn and didn't latch the side pull.. Felt quite good but lacking muscle memory for those few moves.. Third go sat at the kneebar before the traverse, and climbed clean to the very last move, with a slight bit of wasted time clipping after the crux run out (gulp). That's a solid over lap for me, showing I can do all the hard stuff in a row. If I do the bottom fresh and efficient, could get really close to the anchor!
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Sat 30th Jul 2016 - The Pulpit (private land) | ||||||
Back Wall | ||||||
26 | ★★ Mugwump p1 - with Tom Reid | 14m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
2nd shot. Some long moves on okay holds, classic old route
|
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28 | ★★★ Beautiful Thing | 16m, 5 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Not a send, but pretty happy to have a quick rest at the third bolt after some forgotten footwork then to the anchor clean
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