Routes in Brisbane for selected grade

Start just L of the waterfall. Marked "TA".

Manky trad crack.

Start as for 'Adam's Rib'.

From the large ledge two-thirds of the way up, climb up the corner instead of the arete.

Start 1m L of 'Cornflake Crack'. Marked "DM".

Named after a climber killed on Crookneck. Climb up slinging drill hole, then follow line of 3 RBs to DBB. Originally led as a trad route but has been retrobolted.

Start 4m R of 'Standing Room Only'. Marked "SF".

Follows the obvious finger crack to top. One of the best trad routes at 'KP'.

Start 1.5m R of 'Bottle Stopper'. Marked "SR".

Trad route with some BRs. Probably harder than grade suggests.

Start 2m R of 'Dirty Situations'. Marked "I".

Way too runout as a sport route so take trad gear. For example, potential big groundfall before 3rd bolt = can be protected with a small cam such as a C3. 4 RBs and DBB.

Technical & balancy climbing to 1st RB, crux move over the lip to 2nd RB, up the thin, balancy face to 3rd RB, more thin moves on slab above to 4th RB, then easier ground to chains.

Very slippery rock.

Obsolete but included for historical/confusion reasons. Disappeared after a fig tree grew nearby. 'Tiger Stripe' covers this part of the wall.

5 bolts above an optional gear placement. Start at Nightfell ("N"), climb up to the ledge at 2m, place a cam (#1 BD or medium tricam) in the slot out left, just above the lip. Big layback & step-up to bolt, over bulge to ledge below scooped wall & next bolt. Then up left of the scoop & straight up, passing another 3 bolts to anchors.

Start 1m L of 'Spidermonkey'.

Up onto the ledge and clip the RB. Climb the nice finger crack to the start of the slab at halfway. Up the slab clipping 2 RBs and finish at the DBB.

Start at crack 3m L of 'Gynaecology'.

Follow manky crack to top.

Eddie Irvine's first lead... hung himself by his gear sling when his foot slipped placing a nut in the layback! LOL

Start 1m L of 'Earth to Stella'.

Probably not an ironic name. Climb up face to crack at L side of the 'ETS' pillar. Follow crack as it widens and tends R to finish at top of pillar. Shares the 'ETS' DBB.

Start: At the initials "TPM", four metres left of the big arete. Up the short crack left of the arete then continue up ledges to top.

Footnote: It is still possible to climb this, as it lies just outside of the Riverlife property.

Start 2m L of 'Bird Dance For Shiva'.

Up the ledges, traverse R and finish up the slab clipping the BR. Much harder than its official grade of 15.

Trend right, then up when standing on flake

Start 2m L of 'Stoat Clips Bolts'. Marked "BO".

Start to the left of BO and follow the Arete up.

You can access the BO anchors for top rope by climbing down from the top of 'Anonymous'.

Unconventional. A sport climb with no bolts! hang a 60cm runner from the anchor to protect the top section

Cement corner R of 'Ummaguma's Layback'.

Start 1m R of 'Dinosaur'. Marked "RAM".

Up arete to overhang then escape R and top out.

Start 3m R of 'The Lemur's Femur' (which is faintly marked "SI").

Up past 5 RBs to ledge, then L to DBB.

Start 2m R of 'Standing Room Only'.

Follow L-trending line of 5 RBs, finishing at 'SRO' DBB.

Start at "SRO" mark.

Hard start to 1st bolt then continues much more easily. 5 RBS to DBB.

Start at "BS" mark.

Nice easy sport lead. 4 RBs & DBB.

Start 2m R of 'Untouched'. Marked "DS".

Up past 2 BRs to overhang. Reach out and clip fixed carabiner on lip of overhang. Mantle then up easily past another BR and top out. Beware getting to first bolt!

Start 2m R of 'Razor'. Marked "UN".

Follow line of 3RBs then a FH to DBB.

Start 2m right of Crap. Marked "R" .

3 RBs to DBB. High first bolt! Can be climbed by clipping the first two bolts of Crap.

(Rebolted July 2020, QCRC)

Start 2m R of 'Slippery When Wet', 4m R of 'Tiger's Eye'.

Good climbing but beware the run out to the 2nd bolt = ground fall territory from the 2nd bolt. 4 RBs to DBB or clip the carrot and top out for full value. Rebolted in 2020 with RBs & equipped with lower-offs.

Start at "TS" mark.

Trend L past 3 FHs then back R again past 4th FH to join 'Tiger's Tail' for final FH & shared DBB.

Start: In front of Light Box 9, about 2m left of Smooth Sailing. Challenging start, up steep rock to first bolt on broken rocky face, aim for drill hole on right to next bolt, straight up the inside corner to a 3rd RB, up the face to 4th RB, and bit of a run-out over easier ground to chains directly above. (Chains in the left corner are Dynamite's chains.)

Start: Just left of Light Box #9, about 1m left of In The Middle Of A Dream. A daunting start up the blank slab to first RB, continue up the thin slab to a 2nd RB, over this to inside corner & 3rd RB on the black wall, bridge up the corner to a 4th RB, then easier territory to chains directly above in corner.

Start 2m L of 'Kiwi'. Marked "H".

Brilliant moves all the way to the top. Best grade 16 at the cliff. First bolt is a little high but the moves up to it are solid. 5 FHs to DBB.

Before anyone else objects to the name as being "derogatory" or "demeaning" to "old" people (is that not demeaning or at least patronising in itself?) let me point out that I AM a Septuagenarian and that the name accurately reflects the effort I had to put into making the first ascent - an effort that most Septuagenarians and almost-Septuagenarians - if they are still climbing - will readily acknowledge and agree with.

Start midway between Smog and The Hyena's Heinie. Climb up through the slightly overhung V in the rock with first and second bolt to your left (the main crux). Continue upward following the line of bolts (obviously!) and stepping occasionally to the left as you go. Rock quality and hand holds are generally surprisingly good, but it might take a bit of searching to find them - on your first climb at least.   Advisable to use long quickdraws or short slings on at least two of the bolts to minimise rope drag. Twin bolts with rings at anchor, or top out.

Bolted on Wednesday 24th June 2020; bolts tested and FFA on Friday 26th June 2020.

Start up short crack as for 'Juice'.

From ledge above crack follow line of FHs L and up. At 4th FH, step R and mantle into base of cuboidal chimney. Continue up this past final FH. The DBB has been stolen (bastards!) so either top out or traverse awkwardly R to the 'Juice' DBB.

Start on the short but surprisingly nice face buried in the jungle about 10m R of 'Piles'. Marked "SW".

Climb past 2 BRs and top out. Railings at the top provide easy anchors to rap or belay from, though it's pretty vegetated at the top too.

As for 'Short Wall' but climb down and R from the last BR, then up the small chossy corner to top out.

Start behind jacaranda tree about 15m L of 'Arete', and 2m right of Offal. Marked "MD".

Climbs better than it looks. Up twin choss cracks clipping bolts to the left. Head left at the ledge, and up balancy wall to chossy, crux rooflet. Breach the rooflet to the left, clip the last bolt on 'Offal' and finish at chains shared with 'Offal'.

FA Unknown, original line unknown

Start on blank wall 1m R of 'Anonymous'.

Retrobolted version of the original 'Anonymous' with a more direct start. Balancy climbing up wall past 2 RBs. Then on up corners and ledges finishing either up corner on R or straight up thin moves on face for more of a challenge. 6 RBs and DBB.

Start 5m L of 'Idiot Wind'. Marked "TR".

Follow the line of 5 RBs to the anchors. A more direct finish was added when it was retrobolted, increasing the grade from 14 to 16.

Start at first line of bolts R of waterfall, 5m L of 'Junket'.

Nice crux start then follow line of 5 RBs just L of the tree to DBB. Relatively shady which is great on hot afternoons but then it does take a while to dry out after rain.

The 2013 SE Queensland guidebook lists this climb as 'Frontier Psychiatry'.

Sit start. Move to first ledge then bigger move to second ledge before an easy top out.

Stand start and straight up.

Start to the right of the large Black Boy Tree growing next to the wall (be careful of it and also a tiny one at the landing). Start in a stand start on obvious jugs and move up.

The left side of the slab boulder below the Bucket slab boulder. Huge ladder rung type holds available for the bottom half of the boulder, maybe a slightly harder move at the top for the vertically challenged. Again excellent solid rock.

Sit-Start with the pocket LH. Move up to the cool rail and enjoy.

Short scramble up a slightly grubby crack.

Sit start to an easy mantle finish. Just around the left hand corner from Phil's Mantle

Stand start on good holds and move up.

Both hands start on large obvious edge. Right foot on ground level jug. Straight up

Stand start to the left of the tombstone block at the base of the boulder with a left hand in the crimp pockets and a right hand on the obvious shelf. Move right and up to the blunt arête using high feet and mantle technique to the top.

Left up the diagonal blunt rail

Straight rail ladder, lunge for the top. Has been done before, let someone know if it was you!

Dwarf special?...

Mantle the banned area from a sit start?

Climb the left arête of the boulder from a stand start.

Hands on great juggy ledge. Throw to lip.

Far left of the boulder around the side from Waiting For The Sun. A kiddies problem. Sit Start on good holds. A good intro into mantling

Next to the Crack, a nice long slabby line. Start inside, next to the crack, moving left, get onto the shelf with your feet, and tuck yourself inside the overhang. Follow the line around on the shelf on good holds, heading up and across after you move around the corner, then continue across, with the traverse ending about where the tree is.

Behind the thin tree, to the right of Bibi is an easy moderate. Start sit started.

VE Squat start with hands on good edge, up and mantle. Easy, somehow fun

No hand climb up the right side of the boulder

Up the 'Plunging for Mudbunnies' drillhole using only the R side.

Start on the jug in the middle of the face, but instead of doing the dyno straight up, move right and up over block at the base.

Straight up the left hand side of the boulder. Choose your holds up high wisely.

Sit start. Both hands on obvious jug. Sitting on flat rock. Gain the top.

Up the left trending edge

Climb the arete on good holds.

Sit start on rock, straight up and over.

Stand start with RH gaston and LH on nice sidepull flake. This is directly opposite 'Cobb Loaf', about a metre in from the arete.

Traverse the length of the boulder, generally keeping hands below the lip, finally topping out just before reaching the arete at the top of the gully. Relaxed climbing, a good technical warmup.

A bit left of 'Gangbang Wall' is a climb marked "Ex". From a sit start heel hook the big jug and rock on up and over.

Grab a couple jugs! Cool dyno problem. Can also be done with an intermediate.

Improbably worthwhile slab opposite Chicken, Brie, and Avacado on the other side of the track. Do it with no hands (not even pressing against the rock!) to add a grade or two and get an awesome lesson in balance!

Sit start. Both hands start on the big jug. Straight up to gain the top.

One of the many warm ups on the boulder

Sit start 2m right of 'By Ignorance' below 1m high ledge. Chinup, smear and heel hook to stand on top of ledge.

A fun 100m long traverse in an incredible location.

Start at the entry of the obvious deep ravine, climb 2m up the RHS arete and keep traversing right, keeping 1 to 2.5m high all the way to the manky end of the wall, going through some interesting overhanging moves.

The rock is crumbling in places on the surface so look for big holds.

Easy but worthwhile. Try it no handed at V0/V1 to feel like Johnny Dawes.

Start as for Blue Scorpion then traverse left

Right side arete on back of dejableau boulder. Start standing with arete and mono.

Up the 'Plunging for Mudbunnies' drillhole using only the L side.

Start under roof on large block, then up through slopers to mantle-y finish. Short, but interesting.

Right hand sidepull on face. Left hand on jug around corner. Feet on low jugs on face. Head up trending left around arete.

Up the blank face, right hand on the arete

Start on top edge of predominant flake, step up and right on good edges to top.

Squat start, typical awkward Bruce start.