Routes as boulder in North

Start on LH pinch and RH undercling, up through shouldery dihedral before finishing as for storm chasers.

The wobbly block recently came out, but the boulder will still go at a similar grade.

Sit start matched on the flat jug. Move up and right through heel/toe trickery on slick river washed edges and small seams. All time.

Start matched on obvious flat hold. Tricky moves through slopey holds lead to tough move into the slot. Use small LH crimp to gain the big sloping rail, follow it left and up above questionable landing. Bush-bash to the top.

Currently unclimbable due to recent flooding. The landing needs rebuilding.

Start low on undercling, puzzle your way through the steep and finish as for Tadpole.

Sit-start just right of "Globalisation Left" on the low edge. One of Harvey's hardest problems. See the original guidebook for the starting holds.

Sit start on jug, move right through thin seam before doing a big move to arete. Hold the barn door and mosey to the top.

Start under roof to the right of the seam on an undercling and low left facing edge. Join the crack via a big lock off move and finish as for Bodega.

Squat start on slopey edge and pinch, head up and left to a tricky lip encounter.

An outstanding hard line.

Slightly over hanging face, start on the lowest point of obvious rail (slightly flexing be careful). Definitely use a pad on the slab for when climber is topping out.

This is one of the original lines put up by Zimmerman. Original line used just the right layback seam, but would effectively make it an eliminate. the first move to the high layback puts you body in a position to use a compression move off of Reverie, then climbing both seams to the blank section. The Crux is from here to the top as originally described, But is considerably easier than the original grade of V9. Regardless, this is of equal quality to Reverie and is a must do. (Original description = Just to the R of "Highball #1" is a V9, with the crux at the top (start at the break and go up via lay offs to a thin section).)

The line up the 45degree wall with a big move to get to lip, easier terrain after. Take lots of pads.

Start on first boulders face to gain the bottom of the boulder sitting above, follow up crack like feature and up. Requires some commitment.

SS on LH flake. Powerful movements.

SS for “High Society”

Hard move on face with slab over the lip keeping it interesting, trends upward right on the slab. Might need to move some pads around. Another great line put up by Andy Lampard.

An inspiring line with powerful moves. Start off the obvious RH ear and the crystallised LH sidepull.

A mega classic! Start just R of "Skippy With a Smile" with your LH on a high pinch and RH on a terrible slopey scoop. Up via small holds and two hard moves. If you jump start to right hand razor and skip the hard static start it's a V8.

Face just right of Morning Glory following tricky gastons for a rounded mantle for top out. Watch your head on the large dead tree.

Start off block, head straight through the roof to a big move before veering left and up. The top is very overgrown so feel free to use a vine to mantle. Amazing boulder!

Stand start on pinches

Callum Mather

Sit start on edges. Make your way right and up through a big deadpoint, finish up thin crack.

Start on wide edges with a left heel hook. Puzzle your way through the abundance of gastons and the assortment of edges and underclings to reach the lip and the tricky mantle that awaits. Finish rightwards up the tall slab.

Currently unclimbable due to recent flooding. There's a rock in the way that could be moved by a couple people.

Sit start under roof on an undercling and low left facing edge. Out via good rail to a big move from the sloper into TOA, finish as for this.

Sit start in back of cave in ‘corner’ with pair of slots in crack. Follow crack up and to corner then out to cave's perimeter via big move. Work to top via series of holds along lip. Top out using upper slab holds.

Sit start under arete with good LH edge and slopey RH crimp. Compress your way up the arete before making hard throw for RH edge under lip. Finish as for Black Swan.

Start just under roof on good sidepull and undercling, work your way up and out through big moves on good holds.

Start low compressing between good hold and sidepull. Slap your way up the prow and mantle using big scoop jug.

SS 1m L of ‘High Society” awaits a ropeless ascent. Super low start that traverses in from the L below ledge is an open project.

About 25m further off the beach from "American Invasion #2" is a high cracked arête, and has a sloping slab to land on.

A V8 to the R of "American Invasion #1", a sit start off the pockets into the orange scoop.

A terrifying V8 somewhere in the bay.

Starting under overhung dihedral move up and left to the obvious rails, follow right to finish. Beautiful white rock.

Starting low, moving up the underclings. Shoot for the pocket on the right-hand side of the arete, then left and up the arete to finish.

Start with opposing sidepulls, up R to a terrible sloper and blast to the jugs.

Tips, underclings and tiny scoops - hard!

The obvious steep arête with two cruxes, the higher of which is pretty terrifying.

Super classic arête from the low start adds 4 moves (starting position shown in guidebook).

A broken foothold has made this a little harder. Sit start (you may need to crouch if you are too short) off LH pinch and RH crimp. Up via good edges with big moves. Classic.

The steep highball arête on the top L side of the boulder. Up via underclings and slopers to a crux rockover at about half height.

An arete with fantastic body tension.

Lower start to “Rice Bubbles” on side pull and low knob.

Sit-start the left-hand arete of the steepness. Starts with right-hand pinch and left-hand on arete. Up into Global. Two pads used for the sit-start on first ascent.

Add the sit-start, with the lower of the two left-hand sidepulls and a right-hand sidepull barely off the ground, for a tough, thin and sustained problem.

Sit start on good flake, make your way out the scoop via underclings. Follow the lip left before mantling up the nothingness.

Start as for Snappy but immediately break left, following the seam to the arete through a set of small crimps and a big move. Roll over and top out up slab.

Sitstart on double underclings, move up through crack (tape up - painful!). Exit without using adjacent boulder. Good features for topout.

Approach from Rex Smeal Park (see Approach).

Start as for Golden Age but escape left via big move to the slopey rail. Mantle as for Golden Age.

Sit start with obvious low jugs below the large, rounded and vertical sidepull. Climb through the steepness to gain sloping edges at base of the headwall, finishing up the scooped slab with opposing vertical rails.

Cameron Whycherley Glen Hayford Callum Mather

Start low matched on deep scoop in bottom left corner of boulder. Move right via big moves and finish as for Venus.

Currently unclimbable due to recent flooding. Would need to dig out the new landing to access the start holds.

Start on LH crimp slot and deep RH two finger pocket. Up on pocket and crimps, finish as for Squish 'em.

Starting from wobbly block in the corner of the rooflet, work out right and over the lip via slopey holds.

The wobbly block recently came out, but the boulder will still go at a similar grade.

Callum Mather

Start LH good edge and RH small nubbin crimp, move right and up on incut sidepulls.

Crouch start on crimps, campus up and move left through edges and a pinch before throwing for the jug. Stunner!

Start low on the arete and on lowest good edge in the steep, compress your way through the sickness to glory.

Start on set of small crimps, traverse left through big moves on good edges, then finish as for Tadpole.

Start in the corner, move left and finish up arete. Trust those feet!

Sit start with slopey edge low on arete and the hold just above big undercling. Slap slap slap and finish as for the stand start.

Sit start crossed on diagonal crimps. Make your way left and up on a series of diagonal edges and an underling.

Crimpy sit start with diagonal LH and small RH. Straight up. Hard.

The extension to Intuition. Start ~2m underneath roof with good undercut edges above the freestanding boulder below. Using this boulder for feet, move through series of edges on roof to gain the sloping lip. Traverse L through crux into -and finish - as for Intuition.

Sit start

From the jugs, throw big to the tiny slanting crimps. Crank and commit to the easier slab finish.

Stand start on slopey pockets, straight up to tough and slopey mantle, reminiscent of Castle hill. Classic!

Route grade, name and description may need revising.

Up the runnel to the sidepull and slopey topout.

Start matched on obvious rail, head straight right then up.

The gently bulging face on the Middle Brother, the shortest of the three boulders. A highball on perfect granite. It starts with steep and powerful moves off a chunky, in-cut flake, followed by a series of vertical cranks on small but positive edges, which guard the crux mantle onto a slopey narrow rail at two-thirds height. Blankness and weirdness above the rail gets you to a thin seam just below the more amenable top-out. It's one of Harvey's aesthetic highball jewels.

On the other side of this boulder from "Epitome of a Man". SS off the block.

Crouched start on obvious crimp. Straight up to slopers and then press L into scoop. Desperate!

Slopey, crimpy and hard. Classic Steve sandbag.

L of “Curved Arête” SS off edge on low boulder.

Technical

Sit start the obvious steep feature. Up into a technical top. Also see El Destructo Stand Start.

Start a little further left on the little crimps and link into Against The Grain. Soft.

Start on the little cairn to reach the seam and up.

Tiny arete from a sit.

The original problem, staring a little higher on the arete. A little easier, perhaps even soft for the grade. (Starting holds shown in the guidebook).

Start straddling the tree and follow the thin, overhanging flake left to a slopey finish. Watch the block that makes the landing awkward.

As for above problem but then move R via some small slopey holds.

The low start of Walk The Line adds about 4 tough moves. Starting holds - RH crimp, low LH undercling.

The low start to The Testicle Mantle. Done with RH on edge and low LH pinch.

Mantles the LH side of the eyeball. Move up the arete till you get your LH on the good crimp, and then a hard move moving L onto the slab.