Routes in Queensland for selected grade

Sit start the right arete, traverse left and mantle at Puddles.

Stand start on beautiful slopes. Make a move and mantle

Stand start matched on rail at chest height on the right side of the boulder. Traverse left and mantle at the highest point.

Fun, just be careful at the top.

Straight up slab, left of the crack.

Small overlap to short slab.

Left end of bulge.

Sit start. Awkward but cool rockover at the right end of bulge. V0 from a stand start

Directly behind you when looking at Big Rob. Sit start on jugs on jugs at the left end and traverse right until you can easily step straight up. Finish with a quick slide back to the start.

Traverse the lip of the boulder to the high point.

Sit start on juggy flake, up the arete.

Sit start and layback jam up the crack.

Sit start and up slight corner on big holds to an easy but thoughtful mantle

Ned's first-first-ascent! Sit start and go up crack.

Sit start as for Fairy Bread, traverse left on obvious line using crack and rails. Probably add a grade or two if just using the crack

Sit start on far right of diagonal line, straight up through good holds to top

Step off the small rock onto the steepening slab.

On the other side of the boulder, high start to step up and mantle the rounded arête.

Up the short wall

Sit start and layback or jam up the crack

Start on rail low on left, traverse right staying below the top, finish at obvious rail.

Blunt arete 1m left of Out Of Season

1 star - A friendly welcome to fruit bowl region. Get established on the slab then carefully to the top.

Another friendly welcome to the fruit bow. Get established on the slab then carefully to top.

Good clean fun.

Arete let of Lemon Jizzle

Slab left of Tequila Shot. Straight above sandy cleaning amongst the river boulders.

1 star

Slab on the other side of the boulder.

Up slab to the interesting bulge, follow the off-width crack either straight up or head to the back of the pillar for some spinning chock stone goodness. Finish up obvious hand crack exiting to the left for belay station. Pitch 2 is a pure scramble to escape to the ledge which finishes at the base of 'Awkward Caterpillar'.

From ground level scramble 4m up to ledge with good shade, the climb starts here. A few pieces of gear will lead you to 3 FH and DBB, best to extend the belay to the better ledge. This is an access route to the Chossageddon and Choss Monster.

An ugly chimney!

Straight up the pillar using all the holds. Descend on the left.

A contrived line, more like 2 separate problems. Be very careful of a fall on this top section. Some of the top of the boulder up high is a bit loose. Up the obvious crack left of Slip, Slop, Slap then traverse around to the right of the boulder directly above and climb the small crack feature.

Start as for Smooth and Creamy on left side of the face before working straight up. Delicate footwork for an easy slab.

Starting off the pile of stones on the right side of the face trust your feet and search for the jugs, topping out at highest corner.

Sit start Rh crimp out wide, Lh on arete. Hit the lip and mantle.

Low traverse starting at the far left side of the shelf, moving right to join Pips and Pebbles for top out.

One move wonder - sit start on average crimps, bumping to jug before topping out. Resist the temptation to move right around the corner for the mantle.

Up crack, tend right around bulge then left to anchors. Watch for rope rub on the way down. Shares anchors with Rail Mc Railface

Up bulge to gain small ledge and clip first bolt, up fun features to anchors.

Stand start, hands on good rail about head height. Move up and left into the corner for a fun top out between the two trees.

Sit start on the left hand side of Diamond traverse up and right to top out.

Sit start on positive jug, straight up the arete.

Stand start with two hands on big rail kick feet up. Large chockstone under boulder is out. Ride rail out of overhang then head directly up over bulge for top out.

Tamati Kennedy

Start as for Bio-orgasmic Plasma Gun, traverse left at the ledge, then up the off-width. Top out and tree belay.

Up L side of small buttress. Five U-bolts to lower-off.

Up R side of small buttress. Five U-bolts to lower-off shared with OL.

Start up the far left side of the cliff left of unknown, slinging tree. Up to ledge, traverse across placing natural gear and up the cracked blocks to top out.

Start around the corner from 'One Legged Dog', on the right side of the small cave.

Follow 6 U-bolts to the DUBB of OLD.

6m right of Via the Rainbow. Climb pockets to ledge. Up face to slopey exit. Poor pro. More of a solo. Anchor off gumtree.

Four RBs to DBB (in cavelet). Keeps you interested at the grade.

The obvious finger crack 20m from the road. More of a protectable boulder problem than a climb.

15m L of L. Up to L of crack.

Up the orange streak 2m L of G.

Up fine seam at black streak at L end of this wall. Poor protection.

Up the well protected blunt arete, steeper than it looks. Please update with the name if you know.

Long (pointless?) traverse.

Start: Starts off the block at the start of The Girl Who Lives On Heaven Hill.

Start up slabby crack clipping UB before ledge. Lean out clipping second UB, then juggy climbing up the black featured wall past two more UBs before moving L to join MKK at its final bolt. Lower off as for MKK.

The line going directly up the R arête of the scoop past five RBs to finish at rap rings. Nice juggy going to the top of the scoop, then open, balancy climbing to the station. Lower off.

Top-out at abseil rings 4-6. Headwall might be a bit stiff for the grade, use extenders on the last two bolts to reduce drag if belaying a second.

Now fully bolted with rings.

Nearly gets a star! Start up corner as for Woosah Variant, using ring bolts for Unknown on your right or natural gear, take your pick. Continue straight up to horizontal hand crack, traversing right and up crack on good natural pro. Rap off huge tree or chains as for Woosah.

More like wading through compost. Stay away.

Start: Start in 110 degree corner 20 metres right of descent gully.

3m L of TFTF. First climb to the R of the descent gully. Starts a couple of metres left of TFTF at the small corner. Crux is down low. Up slabby wall past two BRs and DBB to overhung juggy top. The top out finish is apparently 16.

Start just about 1.5m left of 'New Day Rising' in orange corner. Head straight up eventually ending at the anchor of 'New Day Rising'.

The gear is actually quite good, it takes various bits of gear including slings, nuts, hexes and small cams (to 0.5 C4), a set of tri-cams from black to red is very useful for the pockets. The gear at the start is a little finicky to find but it's there.

Start on the small buttress with a block balanced on top at the the L-most end of the cliff.

Climb up and onto the perched block. 2 UBs & DBB.

Start in chimney 5m R of 'Becalmed'.

Chimney up and out to L. Clip UB then traverse L to middle of vertical wall. Straight up past 4 UBs to ledge. 5 UBs total. DBB shared with 'Hook Line And Sinker' & 'Becalmed'.

Up the beautiful lightning shaped crack, using natural gear in the crack. Would highly recommend the use of half ropes in order to minimise drag, clipping one rope until halfway through the traverse then using the other.

Nice, easy climbing with some tricky positioning while placing gear and a fun traverse.

Start 2m R of 'MD'.

Classic beginner lead, great introduction to 'Brooyar'. 7 RBs, top out, abseiling rings for top anchor.

Start pretty much at 'Cold Fusion' but trend R straight away to high first bolt before ledge. Climbs straight up from here, with a nice crack near the top. Originally a trad route with dodgy pro, now retrobolted into a fun sport climb through some mindblowing rock. 8 RBs, top out, abseiling rings 7-9 are for top anchor.

3m L of YHIFOP, starting at rooflet with big flakes and jugs (crux). Clip two rings while moving up on jugs to third ring and good wires. Up to rooflet and fourth ring. Step L around roof and top out. Classic! Doable on RBs only, with a decent runout in the middle; make sure you're solid at the grade if doing this.

A good warm up. From the middle of the smooth flake, go up and out towards lip on the line of jugs. Finish at the jug 1m before the lip.

Warning

Start hold is loose and looks like it'll snap soon (June 19). If climbing this use the bigger hold to the right to avoid eating rock. Start with both hands on edge of main flake, you will be pretty much sitting on the ground/boulder mat, pull yourself up (no feet) and get your heel on the flake, single move mantle to top out.

Start 4m right of Redneck Hillbilly Methhead Gympites. Up easy short wall passing ring bolts to difficult mantle and top out to shared anchor on left with RHMG.

Start 4m right of Goofballs and Grease Traps. Trip out on this psychedelic direct line or layback your way up in style passing three ring bolts to shared anchor.

Up easy direct line to DBB. Right of TRRS

5 Rings to Anchor 1m right of Clinterous

2m right of LTL Up lichen covered rock passing 4 ring bolts to anchor.

The hand/fist crack in the corner just R of the small tree growing at half height. Top belay off solid gum trees

After the first bolt try to stay to the right of bolt line.

First climb in Enchanted Forest

Access

Climbing

The Rock

Thor’s Hammer