Routes in Australia for selected grade

The slightly overhung corner. Beware snapping holds especially on the poorly protected start.

Start: Just L of Melville's Cave.

Lovely rock to start, and a dramatic exit to finish.

Start: As for 'Revolver Crack' then head R up thin crack.

ATTENTION: There can be a Bee Hive on this route, take care.

The major corner, facing the second cave.

Start: 3m R of 'Revolver Crack' up major corner facing second cave. Step left to finish.

The fun starting move up to the vertical finger slot directly up the wall between the grooves of Dead Ned and OC. Well protected.

The crack.

Start: 3.5m right of CC.

Sit start

The crack requires a bit of jamming.

Start 3-4m R of the 'Spasticus'.

The layback corner.

Start 1m R of 'Petro-Fy'.

Try to stay out of the chimney, then finish up the crack on the R. The direct finish has also been done by Peter Lindorff.

Start just R of the descent chimney.

The nose on the buttress 8m right of 'Incontinentia Buttocks'. Start on the right side of arete, then up and over nose.

Rotten crack.

Start: Start off the ledge on the E side of the pinnacle.

The topo for this route and the next few is pretty much a guess. Left of the start of 'Ddark Ddigit' is a broken orange wall with an arete on the right hand side. Pitch one follows this arete.

1. 20m (14) Up arete.

2. 30m (14) Scramble up left to middle of wall. Up most obvious line.

Steep direct line with some brittle rock.

The vertical seam/crack on the right side of the pinnacle of A Sore Thumb, finishing up steep crack.

See if you can pick the theme running here?

Start: 4m Right of VIMH below an obvious corner.

Up corner to roof which is swung around to the right.

Start: Continue down the wall from SSSBI57. The wall gets smaller and grey and then rises again with steep orange rock. On the left of this section is an obvious leftward diagonal. Start below the right end of this diagonal.

Up to gain the diagonal which is followed until it seems to make sense to swing back right and up.

Loose flake then lichen. Reachy.

Start: Start 1m R of F.

From the ledge the preceding routes finish at, up the front of the pillar, through overlap and generally terrible rock.

Takes the slabby arete just right of the chimney-gully that Asteroid etc. step out from. Take some tape slings.

An excellent approach for Dinosaur and Asteroid. The obvious thin finger crack in the dihedral. Eats up small cams

Start: Start just R of 'King Rat Gully' Left Fork.

Start: Start a couple of metres R of S.

1. 15m (15) The R crack to the ledge.

2. 15m (14) The wide crack in the L-facing corner above the ledge.

As for C for 10m then R and up arete.

Start: Start as for C.

The start of this doesn't look too bad but the gully is woeful. Maybe would be better finishing up the arete on the left.

On a small grey wall 50m beyond Catcher to the R of the main gully. Up to a jug at 3m, 3m R of the block at the base of the wall. Arrange small wires, make a thin move and continue more easily.

Up middle of face.

Start: Start at the base of the pinnacle right of Two Years in a Shed in Norway.

Crack 1.5 metres left of 'Serious Young Lizards'

Grade is a guess as none was given. Crack 3 metres right of 'Serious Young Lizards'.

Eliminate with a bouldery start between the L edge of the wall (with the yellow mini-pinnacle) and the easy crack.

The crack, moving R at overhang.

Start: Start just R of C-O at the obvious offwidth crack.

Climbs the tricky crack in the middle of the wall past two bulges and a small cave.

Start: Start at tiny crack in middle of wall under a cave higher up.

Takes the south-west arete of Tarzan pinnacle. From the gully, follow crackline up to grey bulging arete, which is climbed to a little summit. Belay and abseil off bolts at the top of Togrul Khan.

If he wasn't then, he certainly is by now!

Start: Start at the base of the 'Gilt Edged' buttress.

Was 12 in previous guides! Given that the start move is outrageously hard for 13 that might have been from the time when 12 was the hardest route at the crag. Easily done in one pitch with extenders.

Start: Start at next break through overhang R of C-D-S.

1. 15m (13) The corner and easily up ramp.

2. 18m (13) Traverse left between overhangs, then up on jugs to top.

Start at the righthand chimney in the back of the gully.

1. 15m (12) Up the chimney and under the chockstone.

2. 15m (15) Take the left-facing curving flake on the right wall, then traverse right and up to rap anchor for Lex Luthor.

Worth roping up for the traverse to the base, and for the traverse off L at the top to the rap anchor. Start 6m R of Reunion, R of orange cave.

Start: Start in the gully R of PW.

1. 20m (15) Chimney to the ledge.

2. 20m (15) 'Small' crack to slopey ledge, R then back L via spooky block.

If it weren't for the scrappy finish and the intermittent bee problems, this excellent traverse would get 2 stars. Start as for WoI then traverse the funky holes across the entire wall to the arete. Best to belay here due to drag. Finish easily up the front of buttress beside (or on) Clytemnestra Buttress, or move back R to the GG anchor.

...is another man's FA! Step across the block from the Necrophiliac anchor. Follow the dodgy rock across then up and over the overhang. Can belay using the Telemachus backup anchor bolt then rap from the Telemachus anchor.

Left curving crack with a few nice jams. Lower-offs (25m).

A link-up of the first part of Bandwagon into the finish of Passionate Tips.

Fairly ordinary. Start on the back of the Piccolo Pipe, about 5m L of Lemmington.

Start at a flaring chimney towards the foot of the south face. Up the chimney to a rest. Move up and L onto a mossy face and go L past a FH to the brink overlooking the gully. Then up the south wall all the way.

Up unprotected face two metres L of D Minor then a short crack to join D Minor.

The major crackline running up the middle of D Minor pinnacle. This climb has excellent protection but has a sad history of death and serious injury from people taking long falls off the top overhang onto the easy-angled middle section of the climb. Please take care to place multi-directional runners on the top overhangs so that lower runners are not pulled out by rope tension during a fall. Can be done in a single pitch taking care with rope management.

1. (25m, 10) Follow the crack on fine holds until jugs lead up a steepening. Easy angled ground leads to a great belay spot under the overhangs.

2. (10m, 14) Follow the crack through the overhangs.

This is a good combination at the grade, dispensing with the cruxy second pitch of Libretto.

1. 25m (14) As for first pitch of Libretto.

2. 25m (14) As for pitch two of CS Concerto.

A fairly good route. Most of the first pitch is spent bridging up Holpyp which isn't bad and the top pitch is atmospheric. Start in the D Major gully.

1. 25m (-) Climb the gully until you can climb the seam on the left wall independently of the gully to cave belay.

2. 25m (14) Mantle onto block up a little corner and then left to arete. Up steep wall to top. Finishing up the arete is more exciting at 16 but be careful with the rock.

Good, varied climbing. Take some large hexes for the second pitch as the cams tend to walk their way open in a couple of spots. Start at the thin crack on the right wall of the gully.

1. 15m (15) Excellent finger layback crack on right wall of gully. Gear is excellent but pumped desperate leaders have run it out in the past and taken large falls.

2. 35m (15) Up the widening crack and left across the sickle into Holpyp. Up over the roof and carry on.

Desperate for short people. Start below the gully between the Conifer Crack and Didgeridoo pipes, immediately right of Woodwind.

Not attractive. Start as for Fiddle until the gully and then climb the wall 1 metre left of that climb avoiding bridging, stepping onto block or drifting into Didgeridoo.

The left arete of the Didgeridoo buttress (the abseil route) looks good but protection is fiddly and there's a large hollow block that would ruin your day if it came off. Start as for Didgeridoo/Horn Piece.

A toprope route keeping just right of Horn Piece offers another option for a busy day. Rig from the Horn Piece bolts - long slings or cordalette. Could be lead-climbed but it is somewhat contrived and initial slab is unprotected - no bolt please. Start 2m right of Horn Piece just left of grotty crack. Slab to bushy crack. After crack follow Rhand side of arete. Pass small triangular overhang then move R and up to anchor.

Start at a crack just right of the second pitch of Conifer Crack. This looks ordinary but it makes for a good continuation from Horn Piece or the other single pitches that lead to the big ledge.

Really good climbing on the first 25 metres. With the abseil anchor the awful climbing above this can now be forgotten. Start at short chimney 5 metres right of Humouresque. Up chimney then on up the narrowing line finishing with some face moves just to the left. Chain anchor.

As per the Old Green Guide: "DISCORD (140'):- A sustained and technically interesting climb with excellent protection. Grade:- Hard Severe

1. 40' Move right up the ramp leading to the base of Toccata and about 15' to the left of Toccata, traverse left a few feet to a good ledge and bolt runner. Climb the shallow groove with difficulty to a resting place and a second bolt runner. Move out right and attain a standing position on top of the obvious square block on the smooth face on the right. Move back left to a good ledge and bolt belay a few feet above the last runner.

2. 100' Step four feet onto the arête and go up to beneath the overhangs. Move back right to join the original line and fix the first runner of the second pitch. Continue in the same line, via a narrow awkward chimney, to the top.

A stunning line on glorious water-washed rock. Protection is excellent despite how it may look, and huge camming devices are not essential. Take two ropes if doing the abseil. Start below the large smooth corner at the right end of the Organ Pipes.

1. 27m (15) Sustained climbing up the corner to hard moves past the little roof into a bottomless chimney. Up to a good ledge.

2. 23m (13) The lovely square-cut chimney. Rap off (45m) or walk up the gully to the top.

The rightmost of the twin cracks on the big block in front of Toccata. Walk off behind.

Lovely corner on the second pitch. Scramble up the gully right of Toccata under a chockstone to below an easy wall. Could also start as for Yossarian but it doesn't add much value.

1. 13m (-) Climb up to Yossarian's first belay then move right and up to belay on the obvious block below the right side of the prominent roof. You could also do the direct start to Deflated which is just a few metres to the right.

2. 35m (15) Difficult move up to right side of roof (RPs essential) then continue up corner.

The Alychne is apparently a line of zero luminance (Talbett was an optometrist). This climb isn't that bad but gets very little traffic; the mossy appearance, fiddly protection and indirect line tend to put people off. Double ropes are very useful.

Start 2 metres right of the short corner, just left of an easy, grotty crack.

Up slab to a ledge at 5 metres. Up through a weakness in the bulge (crux) and on to a small stance. Traverse easily left about six metres with poor protection (many RPs) to a crack. Move up into this and then go diagonally left and finish up the left-hand crack up the steep, juggy headwall.

Above 'Toccata' there is a small bowl ringed by cliffs (The Cirque of the Climbables). On the right wall there is potential for some new routes. Start in the middle of the wall on the black rock, go up then slightly right into line and to top.

Start:

The arete that points towards the campground. Up to obvious orange groove, R at bulge, then up.

It is a wonder that this line, claimed to be 30 metres long, survived for so long.

Down and right of 'Leafy Quoit' is an orange scoop whose right side is caped(sic) by a roof.

Northern side of Leafy Quoit Lump. Follow the crack line just right of the overhang, up to the big ledge, then start up the arete, then begin moving rightwards from about half way up the arete. Finish in a comfortable, L-facing corner with a large, slingable block for an anchor.

Start: The next line right.

Good.

About 20m west of Mr. Blobby there is a gully with a short line on the left wall.

Up crack.

A beautiful route. Take care at the start. Start as for Jason. Tricky moves up and L onto the front of the nose, then follow the nose to the top - veering L quite close to Pedro at half height. The pro is mainly small wires - take plenty and make sure you are proficient at placing them.

Climb the corner.

Start: Start beneath the main L-facing corner.

Short orange wall, step L, up to ledge, step R and up.

Start: Start 15m L of GL at L rounded sickle incut, behind a small gum tree and 3m L of a scrappy gully.

The wall.

Start: Start just L of P.

The big L-facing flake.

Start: Start R of SS.

2 stars might be a bit generous, but should help drum up the attention this excellent route deserves.

Start: Start 6m R of DS.

Up the L-leading fat flakes with excellent gear to excellent steep face/crack moves. Walk off the gully behind the wall.

The rounded arete to the ledge, then a poorly protected grey slab and orange overlap. If you want a boring but better protected finish try the crack on the right.

Start: Start at the arete just R of F.

The original rave review has been tempered by subsequent feedback, but it can keep a star for the moment.

Start: The subtle and improbable line 2m right of Two Dogs of Empiricism.

Up, finishing on arete.

Awkward layback start, through little overlap and up.

Start: Start: On the pinnacle right of the black slab at the front.

Up the line and exit left.

Start: Start just L of the highest part of the wall.

As for Z then up L onto flake and up.

Start: Start as for Z.

Start just right of 'Charity' and after 1m join Great Pissing Ledges.

Much better now its retro bolted. Between 'Charity' and 'Hope' are 2 other cracks that stop at a small roof. Up the right hand of these cracks to roof, continue up through overlap and up slab with bolt.

Up the slabs, and step L around the top overlap.

Start: Start between H & F.

Climb the face to small roof, traverse left and over the roof on good rock.

Start: Just right and up from 'Charity Buttress' is a small wall.

A separate buttress 10m right of Purity and approximately 7 metres left of Heatherbell. Climb face , using the crack at 8m for gear and holds. Up to large ledge at 12m, step right 1m to gain crack with gear for the crux move to summit.

Below Treachery is a buttress shaped like a shark's fin. Start on the orange rock facing into Central Gully. Up the diagonal crack to the arete then up.

Do not climb to prevent erosion risk to new Central Gully track. Wall left of "Meanwhile…", on left end of the Mari cliff.

1. 20m Up the front of the clean wall, keeping left of the black moss streak.

Do not climb to prevent erosion risk to new Central Gully Track. Start 15m L of Megalomaniac. Go up below thick moss streak then step R to crack, up it briefly then up the buttress on the L staying out of the moss.

Worth 3 stars in some eyes, barely worth 2 to others! A classic hand crack with an annoying bulge at the start. When the crack opens into a chimney/gully at the top, continue following the crack veering left to find a belay stance and natural anchor.

3m right of Hassan is an easy crack. Up this, then continue up face above.

Climb the wall L of the easy crack (Eat Your Greens) by way of large scoops, then veering L after Brown Thumb's second bolt and up to anchor. Not heaps of gear (though Nod reckons it's "well protected"!). You can go direct which is not much harder but is quite runout.

Avoids the unprotected start of Access, to end up with a pleasant face climb. Traverse right from the start of Eat Your Greens to a crack in a scoop and climb up from there.

Start at the crack R of A. Up the R crack, which doglegs left at half height. Good rock and climbing. Chain at about 30m.

Start as for WMT. Continue right and up the crack. Finish left at WMT anchor.

The R line, 1.5m right of Babylon. Balancy start to first gear at 4m. Up intermittent crack to shared anchor with Babylon.

Up the line behind gum tree at right end of cliff. Meander left at top to anchor of Babylon or continue to base of Skyline Walls. Enjoyable climbing but be careful of large questionable blocks at 10m.

Start at the far right, beneath the highest part of the wall, where a striking but vegetated line goes up and L under roofs 20m up. Bridge up the groove to the R end of the roof. Now swing up R and up grey wall.

To descend, walk up to base of Copyright and scramble carefully down to chains on WMT.

Start by climbing to the first belay of Lawrence (which is on Dunes Buttress).

1. 25m (14) Bad rock and bad pro. From the ferny cave at Lawrence's first belay, traverse L, then go up diagonally L for 10m to ledge.

2. 20m (-) Steeply to ledge, step R off boulder, then traverse back L and up to the summit of Dreadnought pinnacle.