Routes in Australia for selected grade

To the right of Caffeinator, sit start the crack.

Sit start on the huge hollow flake and follow the jugs to the top.

The obvious challenge right of 'Fairy Head'. Quite committing. Grade?

Sit starts just right of 'Sesame Superhighway' and climbs the series of jugs to a high finish. Descend via the righthand side.

Keith returned 20 years after 'Pig Sticker' to score another good line. Lovely climbing on lovely rock.

Start: Start at the pinkish slab just right of the initial corner of 'Pig Sticker'.

Up to overhang, swing energetically out left and straight up smooth grey wall above. Walk off upwards.

Start: From the start of 'Sunset Boulevard', walk right, along the sloping ledge for 9m to semi hanging belay below first break in overhang.

Nice rock but not very sustained.

Start: The next break to the right of 'Sunset Strip'.

Straight up the steep wall to a ledge at 10m, step left, and up to the top.

Start: Start as for 'The Big Red Hen'.

Highball LH arete on the big boulder just opposite the start of the arete climb 'Golden Showers and Group Sex'. Committing.

Steep problem right of the right arete, ending in a mantle. Grade unknown.

Follow the orange streak to the left of the crack to a juggy arete. Fun low grade highball.

Takes the lower arete of the Orca boulder. Walk downhill to the right of 'Wet With Excitement'.

Opposite Orca is this less harrowing route. Sit start to improving holds.

Scary protruding jugs. Will they snap off? Starts 3m left of The Slit. Up to the cave, exit straight up above the cave to finish through the bulging crack at the top. Bring some slings to tie off the handle bar jugs.

Imposing ringbolted wide crack on left end of 'Tribute Wall'. Luckily there is an abundance of jugs on either side of the crack to make it a nice stemming problem. Start on left side of pit. Step right to RB on right side of crack, then mantle onto ledge. 'Problematic' move up wide crack gains jugs on right wall, then easier (put steep!) climbing to top. 5 RBs and lower-off.

Curving right facing slabby flake near the east entrance of the 'Tribute Wall' ravine. A tree touches the wall about 7m up making upwards progress difficult!

Big left facing corner at far left end of the wall with undercut roof down low. When the corner blanks out go right across the slab to finish on the terrace (chain).

A bit better than 'Bitten Finger'. 2m L of 'Bitten Finger'. Easily up orange patch to bulge, which is breached via a small crack/weakness with great gear and buckets. Headless chickenheads keep the slab above interesting. Take wires & small-med cams.

A long way from anywhere.

Start: Takes the crack 40m left of 'Country Mile', with a steep start and finish. Identifiable as the only continuous line out of several in the area and is rather vegetated.

James and Melanie were far from civilization when they found this line!

Start: Starts 10m left of 'Hogadelics Anonymous'. There is a slab above an overhanging wall. Initialled. Start below left end of slab at a large gum tree.

Quite Good. Start below the left side of the cave. Up the left edge of the

smooth rock, then trend left to finish up the obvious diagonal crack.

Because it‘s good in the morning? The flake towards the right end of the yellow face. Climb the flake then mantle shelf to gain the corner. Up this to the top.

Start as for House of Cards. Step L and climb the flake leading diagonally L. Jug out to the top.

In the middle of the face at the initials. The obvious line.

Start 1m left of This is Not Funny. Move more or less straight up the wall to the top. Possibly under-graded.

Prominent nose at the very L end of the crag. Up the face and through the bulge at the top.

Most attractive line on the crag - vertical crack / seam 1m R of Coccyx Corner.

A few m L of Quantum Sufficit is small black hole in the rock. Start 1m R of this and go straight up to the ledge. Climb the overhang at the arete and up.

The obvious wide, leaning, corner crack.

Start: The nice arête at the left hand end of this cliff.

Steep fun

Start: Starts roughly in the middle of the cliff just right of 'The Riddler'.

Take some tiny wires and a few cams (including some large ones). Up wall tending right past horizontal breaks to rest around 4m from top. Find some good gear and head on up on steep committing jugs. Tricky mantle to natural belay

Start in the corner on the right, head up into the crack, move right then up the corner more easily. Up past little ledge and move left on slab to finish at rap station on ledge.

Up face

Start: start just left of "In a Galitsky Far Far Away"

Pleasant.

Gains the corner 6m left of Copralites.

1. 20m (14) Up easy wall to large ledge then steeply into corner, up this, move onto right wall towards the top and exit to ledge on right.

2. 10m (-) Up to roof, traverse 4m right and pull through break.

Start: About 40m left of 'Ok Tedi' locate a short clean-cut right facing corner about 15m up the cliff. Start in the bushy chimney/gully below this. Cairned.

1. 25m (14) Head out right to avoid the vegetation then back left to the foot of the corner, good climbing up this to large ledge.

2. 10m (14) Up slab to overhang, mantle excitingly through this 2m left of the dead tree.

Start as for Black Feral Cat Goes Underground. Stay on the left wall, though the orange scoop, and step left around overhang.

A bit loose or as Bangla would say "This is the worst route I have ever seconded." Midway betwen 'Spectre' and the right hand end of the cliff is a small descent gully. This route is 10m right of this.

Approximately 40m left of Spectre is a left-ward rising ramp.

1. 35m Head up the ramp and over the bulge, then climb the left-leaning corner to belay under the short chimney.

2. 30m Climb the chimney a short distance, then go up the right arete of the gully.

The MAJOR line 8m left of 'Spectre'. Incomplete aid scarefest (of choss) and not recommended. Full aid rack required including hooks, pitons - anything goes.

1. 15m (14 M1) Scramble up first few metres to reach overhung thin crack. Up and over this to wide crack which turns into a protectionless chossy easy corner. Arrive at sloping ledge and single bolt belay. If you are sane rap off here with skull intact.

2. 17m (10 M6) OK - you asked for it. Incomplete. Out left and up overhung wall on poor quality rock, trying to make anything hold your weight. After 8m of sketchy rubbish a thin crack appears which quickly disintegrates as quickly as it appeared. A real crack arrives courtesy of a large loose block, which moves alarmingly when gear is put behind it. Neil ripped four pieces in a row here, placed a bolt and rapped off vowing never to return. The loose block should be treated with extreme caution. It effectively blocks further progress unless another aid bolt is placed on the blank wall to the side.

Right arete of cave with sit-start

The right-facing corner 18 metres left of 'The Hard Days Night'.

Climbs fragile face between Beeline and Bumble Variant. Climb wall almost anywhere until roof, which is taken at the obvious notch. Continue directly past blank bit to a good ledge. Abseil off horn.

Loose and poorly protected route up the proud arête right of Queen Bee. Pitches of 25m, 25m 15m. Start up Guillotine then move left onto the face. Back right at around 25 to 30m to belay in corner. Horizontally left onto arête proper, straight up to ledge. Bail here to avoid further complications. Traverse down and across to major ledge, rap from tree on Queen Bee.

Start as for 'Rollmop' in 'Abseil Gully' and up the slab just right of the wide crack for 5 metres or so then out left onto the wall left of 'Rollmop' and up the line to the horizontal fault of the first belay of 'Mission To Mars'.

This description is a slight variation on the original route, but done this way the second pitch is longer and even better.

Start: Brandywine, Withywindle and Inner Votion are all in a small amphitheatre up R of Imagination [see photo above]. Scramble up immediately R of Imagination staying on the L until level with a bushy ledge. At the far RH side of the bushy ledge is a steep chimney [Brandywine]. Some people may wish to rope up for this this approach. From the top of these climbs [and Imagination] it is possible to scramble down to the L, eventually descending underneath the big recent rockfall to reach the descent track in the gully.

The steep corner chimney at the RH end of the ledge.

1. 26m (14) Up the chimney to where it narrows. Bridge out around the narrowing (exciting). Up corner to belay on good ledge.

2. 30m (14) Move L past the tree, pull over the bulge and head up on lovely rock to the first crack L of the corner, up this. An utterly delightful pitch.

A classic middle grade adventure. A lot of people get lost on the top pitch of this route. This is odd as at the top of this buttress there are two pronounced corner lines. 'Rum Truffle' finishes up the R hand one and MM the L hand. That's all you really need to know. Both of these corners are R of a large bottomless chimney [MM variant finish]. The only tricky aspect is that MM accesses the LH corner via an easier crack on the arete a few meters R of the foot of the main LH corner rather than climbing directly into the line [see photo below].

Start: Drop down from 'Epaminondas' and head around to the next major buttress. Starts at the back of the scrubby bay between the 'Epaminondas' buttress and this next buttress [the 'Rum Truffle' Buttress].

1. 28m (10) Begin at the toe of the slab. Climb the L edge of the slab then trend R past a distinctive pocket to easier ground and up to tree belay.

2. 36m (12) Climb the weakness in the overhang above then easily up to large ledge. Move 8m R to belay below the two corner lines.

3. 26m (14) Climb the shallow corner near the L arete of the wall between the 2 corner lines for 8m. Step L and up to climb main R facing corner.

Climbed numerous times by people lost looking for the top pitch of MM. This chimney is a prominent feature several meters L of the two corners of MM and RT. Written up at least once.

Start: At top of Pitch 2 of MM move 3m R instead of 8m to belay below bottomless chimney. Up short steep wall to chimney. Up this.

VCC Mt Difficult update has FA as Michael Giacometti, John Maher. 05.03

Some quite good climbing, however the unprotected start to the fourth pitch rather detracts from the experience.

Start: The front of the buttress R of the MM bay. Around R of TSOTH. Just R of a prominent pair of roofs low down on the front of the buttress.

1. 27m (14) Up wall until blocked by long, narrow overhang. Traverse L above lower roof then pull up onto a slab and move L a bit above the second roof to a break in the long overhang. Up though break to belay.

2. 30m (11) Continue up deep line to ledge. Move up L onto face and climb steep wall via a large flake into a chimney. Up chimney and wall to ledge.

3. 10m (-) Move L off end of ledge and scramble up to foot of obvious corner. This is the RH corner leading up to the roofs and the LH one is MM.

4. 26m (14) The difficult start on L wall has no protection and a very nasty landing. It is harder the shorter you are. With a bit of stuffing around and 2 ropes you can climb 6m up MM and place big gear in that climb to protect the start, the second then needs to climb up and down climb to get it out. After the start move R into line and up to huge roof. Traverse R around arete.

5. 4m (-) Up chimney.

150m right of the descent gully is a major line splitting a prow.

1. 32m Follow a crack up to below an overhang.

2. 35m Climb the steep crack and the short difficult corner to a ledge.

3. 46m Head around right, go to the large corner, and then climb this to the top.

Approximately 50m right of First Blood, left of a prominent arete, is a major corner high up on the cliff.

1. 25m Start below the arete and head up the slab. Climb through the overlap at the flake and then move left to belay under the corner.

2. 25m Go up and along the major flake.

3. 25m Head up the cracks immediately left of the arete.

4. 25m Continue up the cracks.

5-10mins right of the B. Desh Memorial Buttress is an outcrop with some overhangs. Start at the main corner at the right end. Climb onto the undercut arete on the left and head up and right into the line. Keep left to avoid vegetation until it’s possible to climb the final corner.

Climb the crack to the right of Gariwerd Dreaming.

A big boulder 50m out form the cliff marks the start of the climb. The crack line.

Start 15 to the right of the distictive waterfall on the most prominent part of the face.

1. Straight up with adequate protection to a good belay ledge. 50m, 12

2. Up the steepening red rock past three FH to ledge, then easier ground (1FH) to big ledge at DBB. 50m, 14

3. Scramble another 10m to place cams in a horizontal break for a belay.

Start at the left side of the left most of four caves. Pull onto wall, up to head wall, up right along its base to chossy chimney. Up flake in left wall

Reasonable climbing but the rock is only fair. Start 120m left of Silk Road and 10m right of a cave. (This is about 50m left of where the cliff direction turns from north west facing to north east facing). Look for a small grey corner that starts about 20m above the ground and a cairn.

1. 35m Up wall for 18m then move left to below corner. Up corner to large ledge.

2. 30m Up left to left end of large roof. Traverse left along horizontal chimney and ledge to a small vertical chimney. Up chimney.

3. 30m Up crack system through bulge then easily to top.

About 40m left of fixed rope in scoop. Up scoop to ledge. Traverse L 3m up crack to roof. Out right and up wall.

3m R of Republicans two wide cracks start 5m up. Up and L past small orange triangle to foot of cracks. Up these exiting L to finish up narrow buttress between chimneys.

5m R of Tories is a wall leading to some deep wide cracks. Pull up onto small ledge, up past 2 FH to deep R leaning crack, up this. Good climbing and protection.

About 50m uphill from Conservative Crag is a small steep orange wall. It has a distinctive white quartz streak towards its LH side. Up blocky groove L of this streak to ledge. Step R onto face and up to below the large protruding block below the overhangs. Exit L. Care needed with rock and protection.

The LH arête of the Suez Crisis block, the route struggles to stay out of the dead tree and is hard to protect.

Start as for Mithridates. Up, then step R to follow the right wall of the seam to the steeper headwall, up this on fragile jugs finishing up L.

From behind the Pickett’s Charge block head uphill and L 80m to a pinnacle with a L curving crack. Up the steep juggy crack exiting L.

Three lines lead through the lower roof on the front of Split Pinnacle. This route takes the right hand one.

1. 20m 15. Up the crack and its right wall around the roof, then up to belay as for The Rush Variant.

2. 15m 10. Traverse left over the flake to finish up the chimney.

Walk left for 40m below the broken crag which continues from the left edge of the main pinnacle, to a right-facing corner with large boulder at base, just right of prominent overhangs. From the top of boulder, get into corner and climb it.

This is the black left-facing corner at the left end of the worthwhile area of the cliff. Climb past the steep start and finish up jugs to abseil from a tree.

5m right of Buckley's Brigade is a major crack with a cairn at its base.

1. 25m (Crux) climb the crack to the ledge where Easy Options finishes.

2. 25m Head up right on the black wall to a line. Follow this, moving right past the final overhang.

This has lovely climbing, and is easier than it looks. Start at the small pinnacle immediately right of The Girl Of My Dreams.

1. 25m (Crux) Climb up the small pinnacle and crack above it to a ledge at 5m. Move 2m left to a right-slanting ramp and climb it to the ceiling. Pull up into the bottomless black chimney, then head right to avoid the next overhang. Climb up the short slab to the ledge.

2. 25m Move 2m left and continue as for The Girl Of My Dreams.

This is the huge line 25m right of Isis and 5m left of Dream On.

1. 30m Climb up to the foot of the chimney, then head up the line to a small ledge on the right, below the overhangs.

2. 25m Climb the wall immediately right of the line, then step up left to the first cave. Climb the overhang to a second cave, then follow the line through a second overhang. Finish at the abseil tree above Dream On.

This is another mega line that starts about 30m right of The Girl Of My Dreams and about 15m left of the cave at the right end of the cliff. It has a cairn at the base.

1. 30m (Crux) Climb the line with a small eucalypt at 3m. Head up to a distinctive black and yellow overhang at 25m and belay on the ledge just above.

2. 20m Climb the bulge and continue up the line.

On the right side of the cliff, to the right of a cave low down, is a short right-facing orange corner below some steepenings. Climb the right side of the corner and then step left below the steepenings. Head up and left to finish up the wall above.

Climb the black streak just left of Straight Arm Overhang, and head pretty much straight up the wall above.

Good climbing on both pitches. Start at the toe of the black slab about 15m right of Blue Sky Mining.

1. 30m Up slab and crack in orange overhang to bushy ledge.

2. 25m Diagonally left up easy slab to steep crack in right arête of prominent corner at t op of cliff; up crack.