Routes in Australia for selected grade

Good climb but watch out for loose rock up to the overhang. Belay on left side of big ledge 35m down abseil. Up grey then orange corner to the overhang. Steep through overhang and on up to final easy ground to top.

Good climbing with thin moves low down and with an overhanging groove high on the cliff. Can be done in a single long pitch or can break at a couple of places (15m or 40m). Was graded 17 before the bolt went in. Start about 5-6 metres left of the giant chockstone, below a thin seam Up to seam and up this (FH) then easy ground just right of bushy groove until line steepens (optional belay on large ledge to left). Follow the line, finishing up overhanging groove to the final easy slabby stuff. (optional belay at start of easy ground).

Originally started up 'Lawrence', a start no-one would want to repeat.

Start: Start by the giant chockstone.

1. 20m (14) Step onto the chockstone (or up short, steep wall just left of it) then juggy wall up to and up pale grey corner on right arete..

2. 40m (14) Up just left of the arete until things ease.

The arete right of the first pitch of Eskimo Nell. Not a great choice of placements on the first half. Take a pink (0,5) Tricam (seriously) and Metolius 0. Start just left of the arete right of the initial crack of Eskimo Nell. Follow seams just left of arete (crux, fiddly gear or long stick-clip) to bolt and onto a narrow ledge. Move right to the arete and up arete into a broken area. Don't veer off but finish steeply up the arete. Rap anchor (not lower-off).

Start under the chimney in the centre of the wall. Thrash up the steep flaring chimney, finishing right.

3m up Lennox, then head diagonally R to ledge, 2m further R, then up flake. Take lots of cams. Start as for L.

Start below tiny steep corner in arete R of G. Pull up the buckety arete, up to ledge and up groove. Start just R of G.

From the ledge on NPFF, head up intermittant flakes leading onto the right wall and up to anchor on NS.

A tricky start, then it's easier to the halfway ledge (at which point you still have no pro). Follow the weakness just L of the R arete of the wall.

Start: Start around the back of 'Fang Buttress', just across the gap from Ali's.

Up the slightly slabby face into the recess under the roof, then move R where it steepens to find the juggiest part of the overhang. Continue up wall above to ledge on left.

Start: At the pockety rock under the recess 12m R of Fang.

Up to overhang at 4m, go L under it, then up. Has been done direct through the overhang at 21, by Col Reece, Greg Moore, 1979.

Start: Start 4m R of 'Mantis'.

Up crack following big holds to ledge then take headwall.

Start: Start 5 metres up right of Wizard below short crack thingy.

The bulging crack just right of the plaque.

On the trackside of the boulder. Up wall left of chimney.

The chimney

L leaning line of jugs to topout.

Up jugs by pockets

Start just left of the SW arete of the pinnacle. Hand traverse R to shallow corner on R side of arete, and up it to slopy finish.

Chimney that can be bridged without any grim climbing. Start at the far L end of the ledge.

Start at the base of Thunder Crack. Traverse R along the major break to Bulger.

Start down R from Recent Theft.

1. 30m (13) Short wall to ledge, and step R. The next section, up the peapod corner and then some face moves rightwards, is great. Easy ground leads 15m up and left to a large ledge. This pitch is actually borrowed from Lock-Up; Bulger originally started further up left, 5m R of Unrequited, and traversed in to climb the not-as-good rambly pedestal.

2. 30m (15) The steep corner crack, with airy hand jamming.

When approaching along Flinders Lane from Ali Baba's Cave, start at the first L-facing corner you get to on 'Seneca Wall'. This is directly above the rap anchor down Tiger Wall.

P1 (20m, 12) Up the corner, with a low roof on the R.

P2 (35m, 15) Up 6m then step L and up ramp to arete,

Spectacular climbing on the 'Swansong' wall. Steps left from a roof above the 'Hawk' traverse, then finishes up a hanging corner high on the right-hand tower.

1. 15m (2) Scramble up to the base of chimney.

2. 35m (12) Up the chimney. When it ends move to the right face ledge and traverse for about 15m till a stance under small overhang.

3. 30m (14) Up to a prominent nose with a 1m roof about 6m up and step left across the void underneath it and traverse another m or 2. Then up easily and and not very right at all to the orange rock (iffy rock and gear in places). Bolts on ledge.

4. 30m (13) Traverse right 8-10m and up to the groove in the arete (looks mossy, but is not too bad and in a great position), past bolt and straight up to Flinders Lane.

Start: Start as for 'Eagle Cleft'

1. 30m (-) As for EC.

2. 20m (12) As for EC then take the Hawk diagonal to the R for 10m.

3. 22m (14) Step L over bulge then up thin crack. At roof move L to arete and up.

4. 20m (14) Smooth wall and groove, trend L.

5. 25m (14) Overhang then easy finish to Flinders Lane.

A monster girdle. Why would you bother.

Start: Start as for EC.

Marvelous if you love 300m of downclimbing.

1. 30m as for Eagle Cleft.

2. 33m As or Hawk.

3. 39m Traverse R to a crack, then mantleshelf downwards(wha-a-a-t?) until it's possible to reverse Kaiser's 3rd pitch.

4. 30m Pitch 3 of Resignation, but move R above overhang to a narrow ledge.

5. 18m Go behind obvious block, downclimb arete, along a ledge, then bridge across a 2m gap.

6. 34m Along Kestrel's ledge, step down and climb across to Yo-Yo's third belay

7. Meander R past Syrinx and the Wobble

8. Meander R past Syrinx and the Wobble

9. Meander R past Syrinx and the Wobble

10. Meander R past Syrinx and the Wobble

The first 2 pitches are great but the rest is ordinary.

Start: Start at the next strong crack line about 10m R of 'Marbuck'.

1. 38m (15) Up the crack then, a few metres after it starts taking you diagonally L (towards Marbuck's big roof), traverse back R along a horizontal weakness to a ledge.

2. 15m (15) Up steepish wall to breach the overhangs between two fairly prominent noses of rock.

3. 30m (-) Traverse 10m L to the crack on 'Marbuck' pitch 3 (you might want to step down for the last bit). Up the crack then L.

4. 25m (-) Up the chimney/gully thing to Flinders Lane.

Classic. Start up first two pitches of Kaiser, finish up top two pitches of Resignation (15,13, 15,12).

The "Other" linkup of Kaiser and Resignation.

Climb the first two pitches of Resignation to belay just above the horns. Take the fun traverse L to finish up the last two pitches of Kaiser.

A well loved classic, but it deteriorates towards the top.

Start: Start 3m R of EMM (12m R of K).

1. 35m (10) Up the rib, trending a bit L near the top to a good ledge above No Future's rap anchor. With a 60m rope and long runners you can string the 1st two pitches together.

2. 15m (15) Head for the main weakness in the big roofs: a recess between two prominent noses (shared with 'Kaiser' p2). Belay just above them.

3. 23m (15) Climb right to good holds and up through the steepness, slightly runout. Once over the bulge head up left to the belay.

4. 23m (11) Trend R up to Flinders Lane.

Start at the 1st belay of 'Resignation'.

1. 15m (15) Up the wall into a loose orange corner, which is about 5m R of the two prominent noses on p2 of the original.

2. 55m (15) Follow the original p3 R and through the juggy overhang. Instead of trending back L, trend R up the vertical face at one o'clock for 20m via continually interesting moves and equally interesting runouts. It then eases briefly before a final tricky short undercut corner to gain Flinders Lane.

Up the starting ramp as for Kestrel, step right up a few easy blocks the then left up left leaning shallow corner. Head directly up through shallow overlaps and towards the top keep 3 metres left of Pfeffernusse before a final reach right to the rap chains beneath large overlap.

Avoiding the crux of Pfeffernusse through starting as for Flying Moose and continue up a few easy block to beneath the slabby section, then finish as for Pfeffernusse.

Goes quite a way up 'Syrinx' and then breaks out left and probably hits the 'Yo Yo' Variant finish at some point.

1. 15m (11) Left front side of 'Syrinx' chimney. This is what most people climb as the first pitch of Syrinx these days.

2. 45m (11) Up as for 'Syrinx' to old peg belay above the smooth wall (half way up Syrinx's 3rd pitch).

3. 48m (15) Step left and climb sharp corner to overhang on left. Climb righthand side of overhang to second overhang. Climb straight up past guano to large ledge.

4. 32m (15) Up thin crack to join left end of Syrinx's traverse. Finish up 'Syrinx'.

Some funky moves on the first pitch but it deteriorates after that.

Starts at a steepening slabby seam about 10 metres right of 'Broken Song'. There's a faint initial S chipped in the rock on the left side of the seam, a vegetated seam 2 metres further right and then the brushed streak of "Shaggy's Route" another 2 metres to the right.

The belay at the end of the second pitch can have an active beehive. Noddy almost died after being attacked by bees at this point.

1. 15m (17) Climb the clean orange seam which is nicely technical and continue up an easy blocky arete to a ledge and belay off a huge block.

2. 27m (12) Obvious narrow chimney then up easily to belay near small cave.

3. 30m (-) Straight up to big ledge right of The Belvedere. This pitch is mostly part of 'The Wobble'.

Increasing traffic means that this route has cleaned up quite nicely. With more traffic it should become as good as the Dribble but at a higher grade and with more varied climbing.

The climb originally included a grade 18 finish through the capping overhangs which Shaggy didn't think worth writing up.

Start: Start below a cleaned streak about 15 metres right of 'Broken Song'. There may be the remains of a cairn.

1. 40m (14) Climb slabby weakness through bulge to ledge, continue straight up to big ledge. A very good pitch.

2. 35m (13) Step R onto ridge, follow straight through bulge, passing weird holes 2 m to your L. Follow large flake to gain R hand of twin cracks to another bulge, pull this and belay on top.

3. 35m (13) Climb straight through 2 juggy bulges following obvious weaknesses. Continue up to gain ledge via yet another bulge.

4. -m (-) Finish by climbing diagonally L to meet syrinx final pitch and finish up that or alternatively wander off to the right.

Climb up anywhere along the western face, it's all about the same grade.

Straight up the bulging arete right side of right wall trending left to exit via central groove, stand start from the crimp steps.

Beautiful incident cracks to high finish. Descent same way or over back.

Trickier than it looks (take some big gear for the start).

Start: The wide crack at the left end of the east face.

Amble up the crappy rock, finishing up the arête overhanging the gully to the L.

Start: At foot of L end of buttress at the top of Pan Grove - about 15m R of 'Rat on Roller Skates' (on Tiger Wall).

One of the Mount's best waterfalls after an extended period of rain.

Start: Deep in the back of the grotto beside a pile of skeleton bones.

Start as for 'Boomer' and head into the gulch. Trash up this to the top.

Start: About 10m R of the grotto is a deep chimney/gully.

An ancient route with complicated FA details... if you want the full story then look in Noddy's guide. Chris and Sue Baxter climbed the wide crack option on pitch 1 on 8/5/1983.

Start: Below the gaping chimney/gully starting halfway up the cliff.

1. 24m (15) Up to the overlap (peg), where hard moves past this on the left leads to chimney/crack. Best option is to take the wide crack on the right past a bulge, or continue up chimney to ledge on right.

2. 18m (15) Continue up the steep crack (on the L) to ledge. Belay here, then scramble up and L to get off.

Start: Original description says: "half-way up Boomer's 1st pitch, direct variant leaves gully for the wide crack on R wall." hmmm...

1. 25m (15) This probably means: climb Boomer's first pitch.

2. 18m (14) And then finish up 'Squeaker'.

Another early climb. This one is supposedly better than it looks.

Start: About 7m R of 'Boomer'.

1. 23m (14) Up groove, then bridge scrubby chimney. Belay as for 'Boomer'.

2. 18m (14) Finish up the RH crack past a few dodgy blocks at the beginning. Descend as for 'Boomer'.

Climb to ledge from the R, then into thin crack to the R. Up and then back L.

Start: On bushy ledge 3m up, at R end of crag.

Climb straight up to the left side of the bulge immediately right of Stretching the Point. A runner in that climb protects a blind step right around the bulge. Up the ramp a little then up to the headwall. Up the headwall, starting on the right side then moving left into the centre. Step around left to the Pointy End bolts. Originally finished up right of the headwall before cleaning.

Another nice little exercise. Climb the clean white slab (tiny RPs and cams) about 3m right of Tipping Point and continue up the steep orange nose. Finish up and left to the Zabriskie bolts.

The lovely water-streak 5 metres right of 'Happy Balance' has a hard, poorly protected start.

A good way to finish Rock Soff Follow the cracks to theer end then head through the bulge where Blow by Blow head through it

Up white streak to short crack in face. Up clean rock and over wee roof.

Start: Start 5 metres right of 'Rock Soff' in middle of white streak.

About 3m right of the far left edge of DR Pinnacle. Move up and right to bulging small overhang. Up and over this then slightly back left across cloud princess like lovely lumps. Straight up to top.

Start beneath the low "col" on the L side of the Pinnacle. Climb straight up the burgundy water streak.

Directly behind Garden Gnome some 10 metres around the corner. Short steep line to a series of scoops that look like buttons. Rap off Garden Gnome chains.

4 metres right of Buttons. Tricky climbing up black stained wall into small sentry box. Out to right side of box and head up arête of pinnacle.

Nicer than the sentry-box start and no harder! Fingery wall midway between Black Box and Howling moving slightly left to join the original climb at about 6m.

Slapstick. Straight up the rap route on the back of the Death Row Pinnacle.

Start on ledge opposite Virginia on the Pharos. Up the cracks, veering left through blocky roof. Then traverse left past the giant chock stone bridge, and up to the anchor on Spasm in a Chasm. Rap off Spasm’s Anchor back to the belay ledge.

A good alternative finish to "Lamplighter". It originally had it's own second pitch, diverging left from "Lamplighter" after 8 metres, but it was fairly worthless.

Start: Start at the second belay of "Lamplighter".

An excellent climb tiptoeing its way up the back wall with lashing of exposure. Provides some relief from the sun until late afternoon.

Start: Start on a ledge down low on the left where an obvious ramp leads up right.

1. 30m (10) Following the ramp to its end, then left to big ledge.

2. 30m (14) Up short corner on the right, old peg (back it up), then tend right up cracks to base of chimney. Near the top there are a couple of options but the best is an unlikely step right and up the face.

3. 18m (13) Up chimney to roof, then chimney back out through roof to DBB.

Start on the south side of The Pharos, down right of Gunk In The Pimms, at the base of the gullybetweene Uncle Charlie and The Pharos. Up diagonal corner on arête to ledge then left and finish up Gunk in the Pimms.

Quite a nice, subtle climb. Start up the flake on the left wall of the chimney-gully right of I Can't Breathe for 3 metres then go diagonally left to finish up I Can't Breathe

Still surprisingly clean. Climb cleanish streak about 15 metres left of the little hanging corner at the left end of the long roof-line on Vanoise Wall.

Up crack for 7 metres, step left and go up to and over high roofline.

Start: Start at crack 20 metres left of "Vanoise".

Conjures up an image of Chris Baxter clutching a bush and screaming as he hurtles down "Vanoise".

The little flake just right of the initial corner has also been climbed at 19.

Start: At small, right-facing corner 3 metres right of "Vanoise".

Rap chains.

Start at chimney-cleft 10 metres right of "Vanoise". Up line. At small overhang step onto right arete and up steep wall. Abseil as for Agent Orange.

The wall right of Sombrero has been dubbed Treasure Island - I have my doubts. Climb the slab and steep wall midway between Sombrero and South Pacific. Continue easily, then finish steeply up the centre of the headwall left of South Pacific.

A few metres left of Lou Will be Pissed are two flake lines. This is the right one. Not the best routes in the world but not really any worse than the other route routes on the wall.

A nice corner-crack behind tree leading directly to the foot of Squirrel & Baker's Delight. If only doing this climb, belay on the first ledge and walk off left.

Line 1.5 metres left of 'Hopelessly Obscure'.

Good, sustained jam crack up left wall of 'Heckle'. Take a few large cams or hexes.

Graded 15 by Mentz & Tempest, Arapiles Selected Climbs Guide Book.

Distinct black streak midway between Rush Of 'Blood' and 'Jeckle'.

Good wall which is harder than it looks. Up centre of south-west facing wall, right of 'Jack-a-Dandy' to DBB

More good rock. Starts around the arete right of 'Angel Black'. maybe wear a rope for the scramble around. Follow flake diagonally left to fine crack just right of arete and follow this.

Hard to justify this one; essentially an indirect version of Hendor Direct Finish a quarter of a century later.

1. 18m Climb past right side of the massive chockstone (original start of Hendor'. Belay just below obvious orange cave.

2. 20m Climb past left side of the orange cave, then step delicately right to diagonal crack. Up this then traverse right and finish up right side of the wall.

Shallow corner, step R past conifer, then trend R up wall or go straight up.

Start: Start 2m R of E.

Start just to the right of the wide crack between Bland and Boy's Own. After the bulge at the shrub, immediately step left and traverse across delicate face through Bland before pulling through lip and up to rap station for In Lemon Butter.

Nice climbing up the thin crack and face. A brass offset covering the #4-5 RP size is useful. Start immediately below the boulder choke, below a thin crack on the right wall. Bridge between the boulder and face to base of crack. Crack and continuation seam. Step right at headwall and up juggy crack to ledge and up to anchor.

Hand crack 12 metres left of "Trampled Underfoot".

Climb the ramp just left of Haphazard for 5 meters, step right and climb the face 2 meters left of the arete to the top.

Climb right-hand side of pillar and traverse left above overhang to small cave. Step out and go straight up to top.

Step left across void and diagonal up to jugs. Back right, trying to climb arete and not walk off left.

Start: Start 2 metres left of 'Vicious Rumours'

Classic climbing up over the bulge on incut jugs.

Seam 1-2 metres right of 'Earthly Pleasures'.

Crack through bulge just right of Lusts Of The Flesh.

Dedicated to John Shaw Neilson, Australia's finest lyric poet. From the top of this climb much of Neilson's country is spread out in clear view to the northwest. Fairly good climbing though the rock low on the second pitch is not the best. Worth a go if you're tired of Bard and all the Mount's other classics.

Start: Start L of 'Aphrodite' (itself not written up!).

1. 45m (14) Climb the seams straight up the middle of the smooth wall left of 'Aphrodite'. Belay on a good ledge level with the start of the second pitch.

2. 45m (12) Traverse into 'The Slot' and follow the corner line up the right wall, curving right past an orange overhang onto the front of the face. Continue up delightful smooth wall to belay about 3m below a triangular roof.

3. 20m (12) Up vague prow just right of the triangular roof.

4. 15m (12) Up a few moves then pull through overhang on front right of the summit block.

Scramble up right of Cruella De Ville and follow line just right of it. Move left uner overhang to easier finishing crack.

The left wall of the 'Siren' corner is very obvious but is not quite as good as it looks. The old bolts need replacing.

Protection is generally reasonable but pitch 2 is sparsely protected.

Start below the right-leaning flake that leads into the chimney marking the left edge of the 'Left Watchtower Face'.

1. 24m (8) Up and over right-leaning crack at 5 metres and continue to juggy ground. Belay on right arete.

2. 30m (13) Step right onto main face and climb diagonally right on clean rock past 2 bolts and belay at third bolt.

3. 32m (14) Traverse right and go up to big ledge below Siren's corner.

4. 50m (13) Go up Siren's corner for about 25 metres then traverse right along weakness to bolt, or climb diagonally right to the same point. Either belay at the bolt (bad idea) or climb over horizontal breaks then up right to good ledge. Note that originally this pitch traversed from the bolt over to what is now 'Antigone'.

5. 35m (12) Go right along ledge to left-leading diagonal crack that leads up through the summit roof.

A very nice climb at the grade.

Start: Start at the deep chimney line (Driftwood) that is the major feature of the 'Left Watchtower Face'.

1. 60m (13) Up chimney to large ledge (as for Driftwood). If you don't have a 60 metre rope there is a comfortable belay niche at 20m [as used on the first ascent] which allows 2 reasonable length pitches.

2. 48m (14) Up orange streak to ledge then left and up wall to big ledge on left.

3. 16m (12) Walk 10 metres left and up flake.

Very enjoyable. The fourth pitch is runout but can be avoided.

1. 42m (12) Bridge the crack (Driftwood) until it narrows at 35 metres. Traverse right to first belay of Wall Of The Afternoon Sun (carrot bolt.)

2. 22m (15) Clean steep wall and seam directly above to big ledge on left.

3. 30m (13) Step right and up orange streak to 'Rotten Row'. Move 10 metres right to flake belay under tree.

4. 48m (14) As for final pitch of Wall Of The Afternoon Sun. Alternatively, escape up 'Rotten Row'.