Routes in Australia for selected grade

one of the earlier routes at Peking face, with a goey crux moving out of the top of the corner.

1. 21m (15) Climb up on to block on left and move up right in to attractive corner. Exciting moves up the corner then left.

2. 27m (13) Up in to v-chimney.

Start marked 4m R AHMB. Climb bulge (awkward move at grade 18) and up to L-facing corner. Climb it and go L to R-facing corner, which leads to an overhang at 10m. R under overhang to ledge and tree. Etc etc.B) Instead of repeating HK as described (very indirect) we did a direct version, in one pitch up to HK’s3rdbelay. (We found a fixed wire on crux of new climbing so may have been done (or tried) before. This ascent eliminates (i) two traverses and HK’s second pitch and (ii) freed the previously unreported aid move? to surmount the initial bulge (see Argus July 2000 p.8) which might be grade14 ... but only with 5 or 6 silent “+”’s

Up third crack, 1m right of Palais de Melon, then up and right on wall to finish as for Sue’s Garden.

As with previous three routes, this ends with thought-provoking face-climbing. Up flake 2m right of Radio Active and opposite two grass-trees, then directly up wall.

Likely not a 1st but anyway

Start on the centre of the easy wall. Go up and left and finish in the jug flake on the top left of the face.

Start on the chalked crack just to the right of the V3. Head straight up.

Start: Crack 10m R of 'Jagger'. Originally soloed by Phillip Stranger and graded 9. Some rotten rock and a large loose chockstone on P1.

1. 20m (15) Up crack and chimney to ledge above 2 chockstones. Head up and R to ledge below undercut chimney.

2. 25m (14) A desperate struggle to get into the chimney then up easily.

This is the L hand of 4 cliff splitting chimney lines seen clearly from Halls Gap. Supposedly once popular it is now rather dirty and neglected. Despite this the climbing is quite interesting, steep and varied. Start: 5m R of 'Fiddler', a chimney corner.

1. 37m (14) Awkward rounded crack to ledge at base of steep corner chimney. Up this over a couple of bulges to where it becomes a deep chimney below a steepening off width corner. Belay in back of chimney.

2. 25m (13) Up wide line easing towards the top.

Not bad old fashioned chimney and crack struggle, if you like that kind of thing.

Start: Major crack line 12m R of 'The Trog'. Seems to have been fairly recently initialled [2010]

1. 22m (15) Crack to ledge at 6m. Up awkward line to strenuous moves around prominent overhang. Up to belay on R wall.

2. 38m (12) Chimney easing past a few bulges.

Start: Major line 35m R of TGC.

1. 34m (15) Up repulsive, vegetated crack around black mossy bulge. Continue up on rotten, mossy rock then move L to ledge and old bolt.

2. 25m (- M4) Free up corner to roof, aid out under roof and up overhanging crack to tiny ledge.

3. 34m (-) Exposed bulge and very mossy crack to large ledge. Easily up from here.

The best rock you can take your non-climber date to climb on. On the downhill side on the blouder use large flake to traverse miles left to a topout on the far left of the boulder. Enjoy the view at the top.

Left of Slap A Bunny. Climb the featured face.

Traverse right from 3rd bolt of Elephant's Slide, up slight ramp, up crack then up and left to finish at ES anchor

Start: L leading diagonal 8m L of HoW. This is the lowest of 3 diagonals.

1. 25m (10) Up diagonal and follow it to cave. Up slab above line to cave.

2. 25m (15) Yellow crack above cave to terrace. R, then up wall. Descent involves scrambling as low as possible and finding something to abb off.

Scramble up to ledge at foot of distinct, right facing flake crack near right end of cliff. Up this to overhang, step left, up vague muggy line above.

The first main line on the R hand of the orange rock. Up past a small tree, layback off the creaking hold, past another tree then the line to the top

2m L of Major Mitchell’s Minor Chimney. Up the wall on the L of the crack step R below the bollard and up the R hand crack into the chimney. Up past the tree and easily onwards.

As for Dynomotive but at the ledge step R onto the arete and follow flakes up steep face, being wary of loose blocks. 12.11.83

L of the large chockstoned chimney [Ramping it Up starts up this] is a wall with large orange overhangs. Follow this L for 70m. 10m L of where the overhangs end is a short gully up to a bay of rock. The crack at the LH side of the back wall of this bay, then the break in the overhang above.

As for Fallen Heroes. R and up to chimney corner. Up crack on R wall a couple of meters until it widens to a shallow chimney. Swing steeply out R on good flake, up cracks.

Up line 7m R of PtP to ledge. Cont. straight up line to finish steeply up highest section. Some dubious rock.

15m R of Choughed, is a smooth grey wall with nice grey rock. Start up L side of this, about 15m R of gully marking L end of wall, and immediately R of small boulder at foot of cliff. Up seam then straight up wall veering slightly L to finish up buttress between 2 major cracks.

Lovely climbing up the thin buttress 5m R of PT. Protection is only adequate on the steep mid height wall [take a .5 Friend or .3 BD for the shallow horizontal before this wall]

Thin seams 2m R of Cyber Nazis, step L to take seam through steep bulge. Finish more easily above here.

The RH crack, 1.5m R of Lazarus. Interesting and varied little route on good clean rock.

Short but good climbing with pro to match. Looks much harder. There is another descent gully 30m R of BR. At foot of R side of this is a short, black slab behind tree. Up this, then up seams, then more steeply to exciting exit.

From the centre of the wall L of the Chow Su Pow chimney follow the thin left leaning diagonal crack up to the left arête. Up the left arête to the rooflet. Step up and left through the rooflet.

From the centre of the wall L of Chow Su Pow follow the thin crack up to the horizontal break. Step right and then up the steep juggy runnel above. Looks very unlikely for the grade.

The left arête of the main face (right arête of Chow Su Pow chimney).

Starts up the L leading ramp starting just L of the big groove line of Fire Dragon. Pull up onto the ramp [hard and committing for the short]. Follow ramp Lward. Step up and L when ramp runs out. Up and slightly L on surprising holds on steep wall. A good outing for the grade.

Classy. There is a tall, proud buttress at L end of main part of cliff. From top of pillar leaning against R side of this climb thin crack and face above

Dirty. Start up blocky crack 2m R of gully just R of WL. Cont up and R.

More nice climbing on impeccable rock. Wall 2m R of RCD to ledge at 8m, then corner and face.

A novelty climb. At R end of cliff is an obvious arch that is 1m wide at base. Straight up. Slightly run out, take small cams.

Starts 2m R of Dewey. Up crack.

Massive easy overhang in middle of Beer-pot Wall. Some of the rock isn't all that great though. The variant finish is probably the best way to finish. Start, about 30 metres down right of 'Rolling Thunder' is initialled.

1. 16m Steep, rotten crack. When line eases go right then left to below overhang.

2. 16m (14) Step left and up a fault in the small overhang. Crack to roof. Hand-traverse right to and onto small ledge.

3. 34m Overhang then crack to ledge.

4. 25m Go 13 metres up right on scrub then diagonally right to foot of v-crack.

5. Right for 19 metres below overhang to gully and go up.

This is THE major left facing corner and was first climbed by the Lindorff brothers over 40 years ago. They have a lot to answer for. Needless to say the grade is esoteric. However now you know where and why the quote, “hedge against inflation” began. Starts 15m rt of Scarecrow. The corner.

Corner system 6m R of Troubador. The printed guide pointed out that this route and Saucy Nancy were the same.

Steep and strenuous. Juggy crack/weakness 1m R of MF and 2m L of large Eucalypt finishing up and L.

Juggy face behind eucalypt then corner exiting R to ledge below overhang [possible belay]. R and up steeply. Good clean middle grade corner.

Consistent at the grade. Easier than it looks. Well protected.

Start: Attractive left facing yellow and grey corner-crack on the right hand side of the main alcove. (about 50m past where the descent gully brings you down if you keep the cliff line on your LHS).

Arete 3m R of Octopus. At about 12m go R and up centre of face to ledge. Step R and up. Some suspect rock.

Starts a couple metres left of The Rutting Season. Up short corner to roof, traverse left to the arete and up the easy corner above.