Routes in Australia for selected grade

Starting at the LH edge of the main block is a big diagonal fault line which crosses the entire main buttress. Start at the foot of this

1. 10m 13. Up the surprisingly awkward R leading crack to deep ledge.

2. 15m 14. Step out L and up to ledge [escape possible down chimney]. Pull across gap [could be much harder for the short] and up to orange overhang. Take line through this and up.

1. 28m 14. Start at the foot of the wide crack as for Six Cents. Head up the steep flake on the R finishing up juggy groove to ledge. 2 18m 12. A wild traverse along the lower break though the overhangs to the crack. Up this. Could be hard to start for the height challenged. Best to place a high runner before starting.

An enjoyable face with adequate protection. 1.5 R of Holy Hand Grenade

1. 20m 15. Up slab to bottom of ramp, step out R to FH and up face to 2nd FH. Straight up steepening stepping L to belay on big ledge. Small cams useful.

2. 15m 14. Up and R to horizontal crack below overhang, traverse R to nose. Pull over steeply then finish on easy rock.

Very nice first pitch.

1. 20m 14. The seam 1m R of Antioch, small wires needed. Step L below the ledge and finish up steeper wall to below overhangs.

2. 15m 12. Follow easy line up R for 6m. Pull over gully onto steep wall on L and up.

R of the main lower slab of the cliff is a black slab. Start 2m L of the blocky corner on its R.

1. 20m 14 Up just L of corner to horizontal. Climb up to second grassy horizontal. Move 2m L and up sparsely protected slab to big ledge.

2. 15m 12 Step out L around overhang. Up flake finishing just to L when it runs out.

Takes the L arete of the square cut corner with an energetic pull around the roof. Traverse R [roped] to abseil as for JJ or L to abseil from trees.

P1 (35m, 15) Climb shallow line with seams 4m R of CO then white streak above bearing L to JJ belay.

P2 (35m, 15, 2 bolts) Up thin crack as for JJ to FH, up R onto bushy ledge. R 5m on this then directly up wall passing 1 FH. Move L at the top to the DBB on JT. Abseil

P1 (38m, 14) Large black corner 4m right of JT, then continue up easy slabs to large tree on bushy ledge just below the steep headwall.

P2 (32m, 15) Up R leading seam, where it finishes head L to short L leading dyke feature. Up this to just below bushes then traverse L to join JT, up this to DBB. Abseil descent.

Line on R edge of buttress trending L ward to join Shatila. Finish up this. Some suspect rock. Descend as for Shatila.

Nice clean slab route. 10m L of Hezbollah. Up slab past 2 FHs to overlap and belay. Traverse off L or R [belayed] to abseil trees.

This route is on a separate small cliff 40m up and L of the descent route from the main cliff. Middle of cliff [or start up obvious crack and step L] past horizontal breaks.

1. 35m 15. Start 1.5m R of UN. Up seams [fiddly small cams and wires] and good cracks to below the overhang. Step L and up to step back R and swing through the overhang at an obvious crack. Up to ledge.

2. 15m 10. Up LH crack in wall above, then R to abseil bolts.

The best way to climb this buttress is as described, stepping L at the 2nd bolt for an excellent sustained outing at around 14/15. A good selection of wires and small/medium cams required. Deserves to be popular. Start: 1.5 R of CS. Up cracks to ledge. Up wall past 2 FH. Step L at the 2nd FH [continuing direct is 17, but less pleasant] and up to stance near arete. From here up and R climbing the middle of the sustained buttress following the best gear and holds to a ledge at 35m [possible belay]. Continue up more easily to belay bolts. Abseil off.

Note [and mea culpa] This buttress was filthy and dangerously unprotected for the first third with no evidence that it had ever been climbed. We abbed down, cleaned it and placed a couple of bolts low down. We then climbed it direct past the bolts at about grade 17. We had assumed that the Blackbeard’s Ghost buttress was that of Blackbeard and that this was a completely new route. In fact we seem to have climbed a direct version of Blackbeard [PA].

Takes the crack and L arête of the big black slab. Up the initial crack to ledge, L along this [possible belay]. Climb the corner/flake and up slab near the arête until angle eases. Head up R to the belay/abseil chains [2x50m].

Start as for JL but continue straight up crack system and nose of slab. Not as well protected as JL

This route as described seems to be a bit contrived. Up for 5m from RH end of black slab with large gum tree half way up, then step across offwidth. Up to roof then L to gum. Off width to bush then exit L across slab [no pro] to belay as for JL etc.

You can just climb the wide crack at the R edge of the slab direct at about grade 12.

Buttress about 20m right of Moonee Ponds has a hanging corner on its front. Up to and up corner.

Clean and pleasant face, cairned. Climbed on the day that Steve Waugh completed the innings of his record-equalling test century. There is a clean and attractive face below CZ. WH Climbs the blunt right arête of this.

Sustained, with lichen and some loose rock.

1. 20 m Up line, past a steep section, to overlap with horizontal breaks just below and above it. Step R to ledge.

2. 20 m Step back left. Over overlap. Right round overhang above, then up and left (poor rock) to exit through hole to good ledge.

3. 20 m Straight up line above.

Right one of a pair of major cracks facing north-east on buttress 80m left of Pressure Cooker. Cairned. Blocky crack to short chimney. Crack above overhang.

Crack immediately left of LRC. Up left wall to rest below overhang. Up right into crack then up.

Centre of face around right of Upstanding.

Nice short problem. Just beyond the left hand edge of the main cliff are 2 smaller buttresses. The left one. Climb short steep flake on right side of buttress above alarmingly loose block [which seems to be quite firmly jammed in place]. Pull over bulge above flake then up and left onto front of buttress, up.

Front of clean slabby buttress right of Carry On Regardless. Exit left before the dirty rock.

Attractive rib leading to the highest point of the cliff. Up right of the buttress with The Garden of Tears et al is a huge landmark red roof/cave. Climb the crack starting below and just left of this. Where it thins to incipient and curves left at 18m, step left, then go straight up middle of buttress.

Start just left of toe of the narrow buttress reaching furthest downhill at the right end of the cliff. Up and right to crest of rib. Up it (easing).

Brushed slab 10m up right of SS, at right end of lower cliff.

Right of LD is a broad descent gully. Right of this is a face with three cracks. Climb middle one until it peters out. Step right, then up.

Start on small bulb-like sidepull crimps in overhung section, climb straight up throua saddle and to the left to slopers and easy but awkward mantle. First ascended in steel caps after work. Plenty of holds (some .ad, some good) and not too overhung. Really nice easy but still very fun climb.

Start at mini jugs left of the eastern rock, climb up to left edge/crimp and then right through sloper/jug mix and up through large crack in the rock. Mantle using righthand sidepull. FA in sneakers.

Climb the corner and hand-crack at the left side of the grey wall under the summit.

Chossy for a Grampians route. New South Wales climbers would call it classic. Starts 15m right of Rodger Over and Out on the vague arete opposite The Infinite Sadness. Weave your way through line of least resistance, taking care not to remove all the holds.

The original route on the cliff. A classic corner. The final pitch is like an extended Resignation.

1. 30m (11) The major corner then up and left to belay under the left end of the roof.

2. 20m Up the left side of the roof, and step right onto the face above.

3. 50m (14) Step right and climb the steadily overhanging headwall, which eases.

The top pitch up the overhanging headwall is one of the best around. 1. 30m Up the nice arete immediately right of Bullfrog. 2. 20m Step right then up through the overhang and up the wall to good ledge. 3. 50m Straight up. A short crack, overhanging jugs, bulge then the seam split in the centre of the smooth grey headwall. Continue more easily.

Start at the chimney flanking the left side of the impressive wall with bolts.

1. 30m (14) Up the chimney. At the first chance step right onto easy angled slab and belay on twin rings above 'Felix'.

2. 40m (14) Finish up juggy corner above.

Megaline. Good climbing. Start up S (which soon wanders off right). Continue up corner-chimney passing three big overhangs and through a hole behind the fourth.

Right angled corner.

Up rounded arête keeping the bolts to your left. Belay bolts service this climb, which are around 5 metres back from the top of First Offence.

Belay bolts service this climb, which are around 5 metres back from the top of First Offence.

"Interesting and thought provoking climbing up slabby rock. Start 3m right of horrible chimney at rightward curving crack. Move up and left to faint crack, follow this until it fades, then step right and up." (Simon Mentz, Glenn Tempest; Grampians Selected Climbs)

"An interesting variant start to Bagatelle. Takes the low angled crack in the grey slab 5m left of Bagatelle before moving right and finishing as for that route." (Simon Mentz, Glenn Tempest; Grampians Selected Climbs)

"A slightly tricker finish to Bagatelle. Up Bagatelle then follow the right hand corner/ crack to the top. Beware of loose rock on the stance below final off-width." (Simon Mentz, Glenn Tempest; Grampians Selected Climbs)

Start as for Acquitted (2m), follow rightward diagonal crack, then straight up the wall as it fades.

Initialled. Ugly corner.

Up 'Curvature of the Spine' and then once through the off-width, traverse the crack to the right. When crack finishes continue up easy head-wall.

Up finger crack, then up off-width and straight up headwall.

Start on face just around right of Tom Tom. From the left side of the undercut face head up diagonally right to the bottomless right facing corner and to the top.

Climb the chimney then traverse left under the roof using big cams for protection and then up.

The central line (slab then crack) between Wigg Mistress and Lower Hawkesbury.