Routes in Australia for selected grade

Starting just left of Torched. This fun route has a technical start for beginners, and tricky finish for shorter climbers.

Starts 8m R of Body Armour below a sharp fin at slab in the corner between two parallel cracks. Abseil descent (bring a sling).

1. 20m 15 Start on the slab through to crux and past the fin to easier path right. Continue to the ledge right of the large pine tree - natural belay.

2. 35m 10 Head up from the belay past multiple ledges to a tricky belay at the top. Escape by scrambling down right towards the chains.

Start at the top of DID. Climb corner on the left for about 7m then move left out of corner when it gets chossy. Pass honeycomb rock and large block to finish up short crack to tree belay.

Starts about 3m R of the cave. Follow L facing corner weakness to summit area.

Starts 8m R of the cave. Climb up short corner to slabby buttress.

1. (28m 13) 10m R of AF. Up black slab on U bolts to fun finish and ledge.

2. (28m 15) Up past 2 U bolts to corner. Traverse R over slab to steep headwall. Up this to natural belay. Escape as for PB.

About 8m R of Absent Friends is a low blocky ledge and a not-so-obvious weakness. An excellent climb with great rock and exposure, a little run-out with tricky gear in places. Escape is possible from chains at the end of pitch 2 & 4.

1. 13 35m Follow weakness on good rock until you reach a ledge with a single FH.

2. 15 12m Trend up right to below large death block – don't touch it! Place gear and begin the exposed juggy traverse around arête to small ledge and chains.

3. 15 37m Go up from belay, trend left below overlap and follow left facing ramp for a few metres until a small ledge with loose blocks above. Head out right past a tricky crux section on sketchy gear and pull through a final steep section to reach a large sloping ledge and cave (DBB).

4. 3 30m Scramble up left under cave and up loose gully or the wall on your right. Continue until you reach a chain belay and large tree directly above previous belay. Escape is possible here via chains.

5. 9 45m Continue through steep section and small V groove (little gear) to reach a ledge. Or alternatively start left at the featured corner. Continue up well featured rock to belay ledge below final headwall.

6. 14 43m Trend up and slightly right through the steep section before moving R past 1m high horn. Now move up heavily featured section to summit.

The white slab and flake about 10m R of where the track from the car park hits the South Sentinel. The lower off is the same anchors as for Three Lost Monkeys (North Face).

Starts at the saddle between the rap chains and the Termite Mound. Follow the major traversing crack along a series of slabs to reach a large curving corner with a high sloping crack (crux). Continue on to pass an extruded block and finish at a major ledge. Exit up the steep gully.

Better than the name suggests. Good gear (medium wires and cams) and interesting climbing up the corner to belay on the big ledge on the L. Escape as for Hoop Pine Crack.

This 4 pitch climbs a total of 160m, starting 20m uphill from the large fig tree and following the vague arête on the right side of the eastern gully.

1. 45m 14 Up the green/black slab over ledges to gain obvious corner then through some vegetation to a large ledge just below cave. Climb around the R side of this and up onto slab. Belay below obvious cracks.

2. 40m 11 Up the cracks to a sloping ledge and continue up and over onto another ledge. Move up for another few metres then traverse L for 10m to belay on the edge of a large ledge with a big buttress. The 3rd pitch starts at the back of this ledge to the L of the prominent buttress.

3. 35m 11 From the ledge, head up the black slab to the L of the gully. Pass a series of ledges and trees to reach a large ledge and tree for belay below a chimney.

4. 40m 13 Head directly up the chimney with good wires and then break R onto the slab. Mantle the block to the L of the group of trees and then follow the gully to reach a large tree on the R.

Steve Ioannou (1,3), Chris Glastonbury (2,4) 16.12.06

Starts 1m L of the plaque to Graham Brett, the deep crack exiting at the old tree. This was his favourite climb.

The cracked corner on The Pinnacle visible from the Playground. More of an epic strain than a climb. Follow the crack on greasy rock into a cave (beware loose rock) and out the other side to exit.

Start up the roots to the tight chimney then an easy but dangerous exit.

Looks gross. 5m L of the previous route (YLINYLI), exit at the old tree.

Start as Holiday Variant Start and finish as Pathetic Journey.

Start up the deep black V corner to the top of the pillar, up into the V and take the L hand wide line.

Looks Gruesome. Start as for for H but go straight up the ugly offwidth past the chockstones through crack (crux) to top.

An exposed traverse. Start at the top of Marjorie. Traverse L along the obvious line of horizontal cracks around the corner to finish at Gutz Ache.

Start 3m R of BGMRTF, up to ledge.

The crack with the ugly wide section at the top.

Starts 5m right of Cannonball (ZZ initials). Take small to medium wires and cams. Climb up the wall to the first ledge then zig R and up to the next sloping ledge. Up to the big half-way ledge then zig R to the shallow open-book corner. Up the shallow corner with some concern, then zig L to the welcome ledge. Finish up the right diagonal crack.

Start at LFT & climb the face to the small ledge on 'Smiley'. Step behind the tree & finish up 'Zig Zag'.

Starts about 6m right of Smiley at the 'UTC' initials. The climbs goes straight up to the prominent bollard, then traverses left and crosses over 'Let's Face It' to join up with Smiley. Up the deep crack of Smiley to finish.

Climb UTC to where it intersects 'Let's Face It'. Traverse left climbing across Smiley and on to the big ledge on ZZ. Finish up ZZ or one of the bolted variants.

Varied climbing and you can avoid getting wedged in the wide section by using face hold.

The conspicuous line right to ledge and continue.

This climb follows a well developed crack and drainage system marked by a distinct re-entrent in the cliff line about 20m R of the top of CM. Start from the large ledge at the base of the crack. Bush-wack a bit at the beginning, then move up the comfortable cracks to a balancy crux move, the the rest is cake. A nice escape for those who have trouble Pumping Iron.

Variant pitch to 'Deliverance'. Tackles the V-corner crack 1m R of Deliverance's 4th pitch. Climb the corner to reach the belay chains on the Wall of the Four Winds.

Access is via a 25m rap from chains - the second set.

1. The route starts up the crack on your right. Step left into left crack and continue up, then step back right and up to ledge on arete to BB.

2. Up 2m then step left into short corner. Up corner to ledge then scramble to next ledge.

3. Up short but steep face (FH) to ramp then corner. Up corner, then ramp then veer right to below headwall.

4. Pull over overhang, then climb V corner.

FRV Variants:

Pitch 3a "The Final RV Variant 3a"

Pitch 4a "The Final RV Variant 4a"

Pitch 4b "The Final RV Variant 4b"

Start at the black open book corner 5m R of the chasm. Up, then R to hand crack and L to exit.

Start at the bottom of the obvious hand crack which splits at half height. Up it.

Stand start and mantle onto sloppy boulder.

Description and grade may need to be edited as this was mostly created as a place holder for the guide.

On the side opposite the water, follow easy holds

Opposite side of boulder to 'Walk the line', there is a nice crack for your hands to start

Up the nice thin crack up the middle of the front face to the horizontal (opposing wires), R and mantel. Up the corner back L.

Starting on the arete. Horizontal cracks at start for small gear.

Up corner to ramp and continue up easier ground. Very crumbly on the face.

This starts on the face of the boulder. Stand start. Sit start would increase difficulty.

Run and Jump start to good lip then mantle.

Route grade, name and description may need revising.

Stand start and up good scoop features.

Route grade, name and description may need revising.

Plenty of good holds to use. Super easy - good for beginners

Juggy holds 1m right of honeycomb

Start by sitting on the "Nudie rudie" rock.

Stemming.

The crux is early on, a mantle. Easy access to the top and a DRB allows you to set up as a top rope.

Open project. Crack climb.

Starting just left of Tang

Stemming and then finishing on "Tang"

The nice line up the L-hand side.

The R-hand side of the smooth slab facing the ocean.

The boulder behind you when you're facing Slap Happy has a mono problem and a dyno from bottom jugs to the top.

This climb will leave you with a good feeling afterwards. Nice jugy hold & laybacks up this flake to a slightly technical foot rockover.

Easy scramble up the crack.

Over the bulge and up the easy slab

From the big jug, reach big to good holds and easy mantle.

Huge jug to mantle.

Stand on the small pinnacle to get a head start into short corner

Sit start. Follow the featured crack to the top.

1.5m right of the corner crack, straight up the face over the small ramp and top out. Anchors can be made off the boulders at the top. May be leadable on gear?

Sit start

Bridge and thrutch up between the two slabs. Actually worth the effort.

Up the crack opposite Slab Sandwich.

Starting under the overhang, climb roof to face. Trend up L on scoops to top out.

Starts behind the boulder at the end of the bouldering wall, to the R of "Mr Krinkle". Ascend the corner with grass growing out of it. 15+m?

As you keep walking past the bouldering wall, you'll encounter the 10m high Pyramid Pinnacle on your L. This climb (that is actually marked with what looks like an upside down "U") starts behind this pinnacle. Up the face to some gear in the diagonal crack and then up from there possibly. 20+m?

A climb perfect for beginners or a first multi-pitch.

1. Start on the slab left of the gully. Up slab and headwall to DRB. 10 bolts + anchor

2. Step R and up slab, through crux to easy ground to DRB. Can walk off left here. 8 bolts + anchor

3. Straight up slab to DBB. Can also walk off here. 8 bolts + anchor

4. Walk R 5m on ledge to slab. Traverse slab R to DRB. 5 bolts + anchor

5. Up slab through corner to DRB. 7 bolts + anchor

Don't bother. Up the gully / chimney to next platform. Continue through cave and up chimney then over large chockstone to scramble up vegetated gully to belay at fig tree and crack.

Starting at "Vision Variant Start", follow the natural seem the goes to the anchors of "Unnamed 1".

The short but sweet bolder problem L of Edibles.

Starting at "JLC Project 3". Up slab to jug and trend left to join into Edibles and DRB.

P4 of Insight but in reverse.

Approach via walking down the gully. Up slab to DRB of P4 Insight.

From the anchors of "Unnamed 1" and go left on platform to crack. Continue to climb up the crack past the V corner and follow the crack out. Some be chossy blocks near the top. Use the VVS anchors (Rusty bolts). Can lead on Trad (small gear) although runout and not well-protected.

Up diagonal crack to lip to step out right onto ledge. Up slab to join back into "Googly eyes". Belay at tree and DRB.

Starts 2m right of Sne at base of the R-curving mini-corner on clean slab. Faintly marked. Climbs up the slab just L of mini-corner to the first bolt at about 10m, then more slab. May be some protectable pockets on the slab. Probably finishes as per FF.

A fairly scary lead and hugely run out on very thin rusty bolts. Starts 2m R of DI. Faintly marked but extremely hard to see the paint. Up orange slab to tiny curving mini corner (pro possible) then straight over the overlap and up the slab up a few metres on flexing flakes to a thin rusty bolt. Up slab (cams) for about 8m to a bolt and then onto a big break below the headwall. Through the easiest section of this to a big ledge and natural pro belay. Walk off down major gully.

Starts approximately 10m R of UWF on far R of detached block, just L of the chimney. Faintly marked but hard to see the paint. Possibly no pro and look like it fully blanks out on the top section.

Starts 3m R of detached block which forms a chimney. Faintly marked but hard to see the paint. Ascends pockets (protectable) and then an unprotected slab. Looks like it finishes on a grassy ledge below the overhang - uncertain finish & descent.