Routes in Australia for selected grade

The major crackline running up the middle of D Minor pinnacle. This climb has excellent protection but has a sad history of death and serious injury from people taking long falls off the top overhang onto the easy-angled middle section of the climb. Please take care to place multi-directional runners on the top overhangs so that lower runners are not pulled out by rope tension during a fall. Can be done in a single pitch taking care with rope management.

1. (25m, 10) Follow the crack on fine holds until jugs lead up a steepening. Easy angled ground leads to a great belay spot under the overhangs.

2. (10m, 14) Follow the crack through the overhangs.

1.5m right of the left arete. Up wall and then move left over cave and then straight up

Offers up a simmering dish of big exposure, good protection and easy moves. On nice sunny weekends there can be a queue so get in early! Sleepyheads starting at the crack of noon (which is bizarrely common) will also miss out on the cool morning shade and get smashed by the sun which blasts the route from midday onwards.

Sweet Dream is regarded as the best introduction to multi-pitch climbing in New South Wales - however a recent fatality from rock fall and serious accident involving belayer failure should remind climbers this is not a casual walk in the park. The advice below is relevant to any multi-pitch route - but is contained in this route description to make sure people read it.

Rock fall is a hazard on any outdoor rock climb - but it can be especially hazardous on Sweet Dreams due to multiple parties being on the route at the same time. The danger is mainly from the unstable hillside above the route when topping out - but loose rock can be found on any pitch. Wear a helmet (on the approach and even when queuing at the base of the route) and rig belays with long enough slings/rope that a belayer can dodge falling missiles without being chained down. Care needs to be taken by all parties who attempt this route. If you have a beginner in tow let them know to be careful around loose rock.

This route is mainly low angle and thus easily affected by rain and summer sun. Have the skills and equipment to abseil off the route if required. This includes taking tube style belay devices suitable for double ropes (a grigri will not work). All belays are fitted with double ringbolts suitable for abseiling. A 60m rope is required for retreat above pitch 2 - use the anchors on Saccharine Nightmare.

Although there are many bolts on this route - this is NOT a sport route (despite what you may have heard). A trad rack is required for pitches 2 & 5 and useful on other pitches (single set of finger to fist sized cams + a couple of large wires will suffice). Bolt brackets are no longer required on this route. Most of the bolts were placed after the first ascent.

The route is only grade 14 if you finish via the corner system & left finish on pitch 5. There are two bolted variants to this pitch (both around grade 17) that avoid potential loose rock in the corner. Local advice is to use these pitches in preference to the corner (this was the location of the rockfall fatality).

Start: After crossing the fixed wire walk another 40m or so to base of short scrappy looking right facing corner on right side of giant block. Up above is the vast black slab of the higher pitches.

1. 20m (14) Short wall past bolt onto ledge then left to chimney (bolt), up to ledge and DRB belay.

2. 20m (10) Trad protected crack to DRB belay in little alcove. Save a large cam for the last few metres of this pitch. Without trad you will be SOLOING this pitch.

3. 28m (13) Traverse up and right across slab past 6 bolts and couple of cam slots to DRB.

4. 25m (13) Up via very easy climbing and no protection to second set of DRB after about 8m (ignore these). Continue up wall (3 bolts & optional cam), then step right to crack above bowel clenching exposure. Belay on big ledge below corner at one of two sets of DRBs. The right one is best for the trad corner - the left is best for the bolted grade 17 variants. Either way - this is an exposed belay to rockfall - be prepared to dodge.

5. 40m (14) Up easy trad protected corner for 20m, move left a few moves when possible then continue up subtle trad protected corner for another 10m to low double bolt belay - or even better a massive tree belay another 10m up the hill. Technically this is called the 'Variant Finish' but is the common way this route is now done.

The three variants to pitch 5 off the ledge are described here - but also have separate listings on this website.

The Original Finish (14) - climb the same trad corner for 20m then traverses RIGHT onto a big ledge and cam belay near huge detached blocks (not recommended due to potential loose rock). Finish up via 10m (10) pitch up the chossy overhang above taking extreme care not to drop rocks on people below.

Middle Bolted Variant (15-17) - climbs the wall just left of the corner past several ringbolts and then goes directly up the TRAD protected finish of the original pitch 5. This pitch is the easier of the two variants - it is possible to escape into the corner at one point which makes it more like grade 15.

Left Bolted Variant (17) - from the left DRB climb the subtle exposed arete past three or so ringbolts then join into the Middle Variant for a couple of bolts and then the trad finish. It is possible to traverse left at about 20m to the final belay of Saccharin Nightmare - and finish up that routes top bolted pitch (thus avoiding the trad finish of Sweet Dreams.

An excellent climb tiptoeing its way up the back wall with lashing of exposure. Provides some relief from the sun until late afternoon.

Start: Start on a ledge down low on the left where an obvious ramp leads up right.

1. 30m (10) Following the ramp to its end, then left to big ledge.

2. 30m (14) Up short corner on the right, old peg (back it up), then tend right up cracks to base of chimney. Near the top there are a couple of options but the best is an unlikely step right and up the face.

3. 18m (13) Up chimney to roof, then chimney back out through roof to DBB.

Start 1.5m left of the chimney (Valhalla).

1. 24m (13) Up crack then left up corner to ledge. DBB rap anchors.

2. 22m (14) Crack and corner.

Classic easy sport route - bring the bolt plates for this. Start 40m left of Katoomba Bros at grey face with a black streak up high, topped by a small roof. Straight up the vertical face mostly on jugs with two hands free ledges in first half. Thin start then consistent on good holds to the crux, which is just above the last bolt. Finish under roof. Well protected but with a little run out at the top just to make it interesting!

Start just left of Karinya, climb left a bit then up.

A good safe introduction to Frog at the grade. Climb the line R of MP past a shallow cave. Tricky moves around this lead to a chimney to the ledge. Most people finish the route at the rap chain on the ledge but you can continue up in the V-groove for another 6m to the top (not as much fun).

Corner 2m left of SSCC1. Up corner through trees and continue up the corner behind the block above. 60m rope is fine for abseiling and lowering.

A beautiful route. Take care at the start. Start as for Jason. Tricky moves up and L onto the front of the nose, then follow the nose to the top - veering L quite close to Pedro at half height. The pro is mainly small wires - take plenty and make sure you are proficient at placing them.

The super popular left side of the arete. All rings and lower-off at top (or top out to carrots).

Start 5m R of 'MOBS'.

A popular beginner lead that gets harder as you go up. 4 RBs and DBB.

Finger crack 2m left of Chastity. One hard move. Lower off shared chains on top.

Start: A further 10m up the gully.

Great! Five FH's up corner-like feature. Shares an anchor with TMMM.

Despite the name, this is a good route to learn the basics of crack climbing. TR access can be gained by scrambling up from the left.

Up beside the cave (on its left) as for W, hand traverse across the ridge. Left foot high step onto the lintel to get that 2nd bolt and up you go.

Simply brilliant middle grade climbing. Easily the best 15 at the cliff. Start at the obvious corner behind the large tree. Up this on brilliant holds and jams to a rest at the cave. Gulp hard, plug in yet more bombproof gear and blast out of the cave to some very airy positions. Wobble and bridge up the final corner to an easy top out. Chains can be found at the tree. There is some hollow rock on this climb, but you don't need to use any of it.

Start at "BS" mark.

Nice easy sport lead. 4 RBs & DBB.

Left curving crack with a few nice jams. Lower-offs (25m).

Four RBs to DBB (in cavelet). Keeps you interested at the grade.

Climb is marked with a faded AB. Just right of the crack. Rebolted 2009. 3 ring bolts with lower off. A Sydney classic

Start 1.5m L of 'Date Anatomy'.

Climb past 5 RBs then mantle awkwardly onto ledge and finish at DBB shared with 'Date Anatomy'.

A stunning line on glorious water-washed rock. Protection is excellent despite how it may look, and huge camming devices are not essential. Take two ropes if doing the abseil. Start below the large smooth corner at the right end of the Organ Pipes.

1. 27m (15) Sustained climbing up the corner to hard moves past the little roof into a bottomless chimney. Up to a good ledge.

2. 23m (13) The lovely square-cut chimney. Rap off (45m) or walk up the gully to the top.

A classy little climb up the corner past a large tree at 2m. Fantastic protection and loads of climbing variety make this an absolute winner. Rappel down from DBB directly above the route.

Worth 3 stars in some eyes, barely worth 2 to others! A classic hand crack with an annoying bulge at the start. When the crack opens into a chimney/gully at the top, continue following the crack veering left to find a belay stance and natural anchor.

Up past difficult mantle then up right to break. Traverse right to edge of arete then up to top passing several carrots on the way. Belay just below top out on stainless carrots. Belay leader from top belay to rap chains for Angular Crack.

Re-bolted with stainless glue in carrots in 2016.

Direct start is 24.

Start: Thin crack 6m left of 'The Bells of Rhymney',

Major corner crack and a popular all trad line. Beware, the route name is apt - there have been a couple of fatalities on this route. If in doubt don't run it out.

The line going directly up the R arête of the scoop past five RBs to finish at rap rings. Nice juggy going to the top of the scoop, then open, balancy climbing to the station. Lower off.

The bulging crack just right of the plaque.

Start 2m R of 'MD'.

Classic beginner lead, great introduction to 'Brooyar'. 7 RBs, top out, abseiling rings for top anchor.

Start at the faint "SI" mark.

Up past 6 RBs to DBB. Was known as "SI" before being bolted.

A long and very popular series of corners and cracks. Decent gear all the way but if you're belaying be aware that there are several ledges that the leader could hit.

There are three choices of start to this route: the rightmost is the Direct Start (19) which takes the clean layback corner into the line.

The middle start goes up the crack 2m on the L which leads to a short chimney; this goes at 17.

The original route (14) starts 4m L up the line of least resistance. Blast up this to a ledge, and then thoroughly absorbing climbing up the overhanging chimney section.

Rap at trees and chain (2 ropes to get down, or 1 x 70m will suffice).

Start at "TS" mark.

Trend L past 3 FHs then back R again past 4th FH to join 'Tiger's Tail' for final FH & shared DBB.

A well loved classic, but it deteriorates towards the top.

Start: Start 3m R of EMM (12m R of K).

1. 35m (10) Up the rib, trending a bit L near the top to a good ledge above No Future's rap anchor. With a 60m rope and long runners you can string the 1st two pitches together.

2. 15m (15) Head for the main weakness in the big roofs: a recess between two prominent noses (shared with 'Kaiser' p2). Belay just above them.

3. 23m (15) Climb right to good holds and up through the steepness, slightly runout. Once over the bulge head up left to the belay.

4. 23m (11) Trend R up to Flinders Lane.

A great warm up climb. Climb the left wall with great hands and pro in the back of the off-width to 10m. Then at roof go out and up using left wall again. Good stance on top of pillar, more good gear and another off-width section to the top of this next section. Use a tree not far back from the top of the route.

Right of IOEP. Shared start with Ole Biscuit Barrel, then follow the bolts left to the low anchors.

Start 2m R of 'Tiger Stripe'.

Straight up past 5 FHs to DBB. Last FH & DBB shared with 'Tiger Stripe'.

Jug haul up past rings. Start: right side of buttress 30m left of 'Cenotaph Corner'. Now has loweroffs.

Up layaway arete.

The best 14 here! The brilliant L facing corner is an excellent introduction to sustained bridging and jamming. Rap chain is visible just up from the ledge.

4 or 5 moves on incuts.

Mantle (try the right edge), up through cavelet, crux around 3rd RB and over lip onto wall. Trend right following juggy cracks on the turtle shell to ring lower-offs.

Chossy corner 1 m R of 'Moonlight Dilemma'. 4 RBs, anchors shared with 'Hanging Garden'.

Straight up knobs just left of the tree branch on top.

Start in the bottom of the little flared crack and go up diagonally left under tree branch.

Really good climbing on the first 25 metres. With the abseil anchor the awful climbing above this can now be forgotten. Start at short chimney 5 metres right of Humouresque. Up chimney then on up the narrowing line finishing with some face moves just to the left. Chain anchor.

Quite good. Varied techniques are required to ascend this fine corner. Up the groove past a tree, then to an awkward constriction. Thrutch up this like a madman, or step onto the R face and skip the difficulties.

The middle of the three prominent cracks on the wall is a daunting layback if your jamming technique is lacking.

Follow the ring bolts up to the prow up high. Up through the overlaps with a bit of high stepping action, to an almost vertical finish.

Up over bulge on big holds.

Up the slightly slabby face into the recess under the roof, then move R where it steepens to find the juggiest part of the overhang. Continue up wall above to ledge on left.

Start: At the pockety rock under the recess 12m R of Fang.

Start midway between 'Slime Fresh' & 'David Mac'.

Follow line of 5 RBs to DBB.

Start at the largest tree along the cliff, about 2m back from the wall. Marked "LE".

Straight up following 4 RBs to DBB. Rebolted 2014.

Short ledge left of the left hand wall block arete

Start 2m R of 'Wind in the Willows'. Marked "C".

Decent beginner lead, well-protected by 5 RBs to chains.

(Rebolted May 2020)

Conjures up an image of Chris Baxter clutching a bush and screaming as he hurtles down "Vanoise".

The little flake just right of the initial corner has also been climbed at 19.

Start: At small, right-facing corner 3 metres right of "Vanoise".

Rap chains.

Imposing ringbolted wide crack on left end of 'Tribute Wall'. Luckily there is an abundance of jugs on either side of the crack to make it a nice stemming problem. Start on left side of pit. Step right to RB on right side of crack, then mantle onto ledge. 'Problematic' move up wide crack gains jugs on right wall, then easier (put steep!) climbing to top. 5 RBs and lower-off.

Left line of rings up the lichen covered slab.

More great slabbing. Start 8 metres right of Brolga, directly below a thin crack that doesn't quite reach the ground.

1. 27m (13) Go up on the left and move right into the weakness. Up weakness then face to ledge, just left of some swordgrass.

2. 46m (14) Up the wall past a bolt for 30 metres to the bulge. Pass this and find a semi-hanging belay above. People used to belay below the bulge but the anchors were poor.

3. 17m (6) Easily up.

Up to the ledge then head left to the arete and enjoy the exposure.

Shared start with Pitang Pitang. Up the small arete for 3 bolts, then follow the ramp diagonally R to DRB lower-off with shackles. Likely to be stiff for the grade.

Ring bolts to lower off on the undercut grey slab.

Several rings to lower off. If you want to access 'Sundeck' clip the lower offs and move past them to double U bolts at the base of 'Piccolo Luna'

Start: Start at inviting looking section of slabbiness.

Start 2m L of 'Gravitational Equilibrium'. Marked "IJ".

Follow the crackline, zig-zaging a bit, clipping 4 RBs to the DBB. Rebolted 2014.

Right of Snooze. Pull over two bulges and onto the crack and slab. Romp up the nice looking orange rock to the anchors shared with Snooze. The route starts just left of the bush 2m up, watch the tree when lowering!!

A one move special, and a soft touch at the grade. Start at the obvious crack in the corner R of Humility. Up this with excellent protection to a ledge. Bumble easily to the top as for PA. Bolted belay anchor.

The slightly overhung corner. Beware snapping holds especially on the poorly protected start.

Start: Just L of Melville's Cave.

Start up slabby crack clipping UB before ledge. Lean out clipping second UB, then juggy climbing up the black featured wall past two more UBs before moving L to join MKK at its final bolt. Lower off as for MKK.

Top-out at abseil rings 4-6. Headwall might be a bit stiff for the grade, use extenders on the last two bolts to reduce drag if belaying a second.

Start 2m L of 'Lunar Eclipse'. Marked "EH".

Climb straight up right of the large loose block, then tend slightly left above this, to the DBB shared with SD. 4 RBs. Rebolted 2014.

1 metre right of 'Summer Breeze', 5 bolts with a balancy start up to DBB. Crack at the top takes a cam around Camalot #2 size if you'd like to avoid the very slightly runout finish. Make sure to extend anchor if toproping.

Protection is generally reasonable but pitch 2 is sparsely protected.

Start below the right-leaning flake that leads into the chimney marking the left edge of the 'Left Watchtower Face'.

1. 24m (8) Up and over right-leaning crack at 5 metres and continue to juggy ground. Belay on right arete.

2. 30m (13) Step right onto main face and climb diagonally right on clean rock past 2 bolts and belay at third bolt.

3. 32m (14) Traverse right and go up to big ledge below Siren's corner.

4. 50m (13) Go up Siren's corner for about 25 metres then traverse right along weakness to bolt, or climb diagonally right to the same point. Either belay at the bolt (bad idea) or climb over horizontal breaks then up right to good ledge. Note that originally this pitch traversed from the bolt over to what is now 'Antigone'.

5. 35m (12) Go right along ledge to left-leading diagonal crack that leads up through the summit roof.

Start: Start 2m L of Visions Of A Transmitter below the dead tree at 5m. A superb climb up an exposed face crack which is easier than it looks. Climb the juggy face for 35m until the final crack section makes things a little tricky. Belay off chains. The protection is good, but because the rock is a bit weak, be sure to place a lot and make sure it's bomber. You can rap off with one 80m rope, otherwise join two ropes, or scramble another 5 meters to the summit and walk off.

The offwidth 8m L of Eternity with an undercut start. Thankfully it doesn't climb like an offwidth! Best to finish after 18m by stepping L to the SSCC3 rap anchor.

Start 10m R of RS at the right side of roofs. 6 Ubolts to lower off.

Starts 3m right of the trench ('Locris'). Follow the FH, then up to anchor. 5th bolt added Dec 2016 on request of FA.

The obvious line up the scoops immediately above the trad grade 10 corner at path level. 12m as a sport route from the scramble onto block, about 20m from path level including easy corner (no bolts till ledge). Plenty of bolts on headwall and good climbing.

This is not a well protected route. There have been a number of accidents on it and there are better choices if you are looking for routes of this grade (Electric Lead, Electronic Flag, Devil's Wart) Up the first corner to a ledge. From here, most people step into the middle line under the R edge of a huge chock stone-like flake. Up this with increasing difficulty to rest. Alternatively, you can go up SC for a move or two and step in L. From here, blast up the chock stone filled corner, and then easily to the chains at the tree.

Start in the corner, behind the tree... do not lean on the tree.. it bends !

2m left of E.

Up the thrutchy bum crack, then either up the well protected headwall (BR), or pleasantly left up groove to top (BR on left protects top out). Double RB belay.

Protection: Cams: BD #.4, #.5, #.75 x 2, #1, #2, 1 carrot

Anchors: ring bolts with shackles

Start pretty much at 'Cold Fusion' but trend R straight away to high first bolt before ledge. Climbs straight up from here, with a nice crack near the top. Originally a trad route with dodgy pro, now retrobolted into a fun sport climb through some mindblowing rock. 8 RBs, top out, abseiling rings 7-9 are for top anchor.

Sit start on the big juggy hole and climb straight up the wall on a series of jugs to a tricky top out. Top out is not too bad if you suss out the top holds before embarking (try not to get caught on the tree when topping out).

3m right of LL. Up through the cave and follow cracks/ledges

Corner 4m left of N. Undercut start, then corner to cave (use high poor fixed pin and extra wires). Traverse left to ledge (poor piton + cams). Go left 2m up overhang (cam on left) and runout up wall to 2 carrot belay.

Was 12 in previous guides! Given that the start move is outrageously hard for 13 that might have been from the time when 12 was the hardest route at the crag. Easily done in one pitch with extenders.

Start: Start at next break through overhang R of C-D-S.

1. 15m (13) The corner and easily up ramp.

2. 18m (13) Traverse left between overhangs, then up on jugs to top.

Start: 3m left of Frolic. DRBB set back and out of sight.

The crack requires a bit of jamming.

Start 3-4m R of the 'Spasticus'.

Right arête starting off ledge right of Maleficent. Starts at double ring belay bolts. Passes thru a DBB halfway so can be treated as single pitch or a two pitch multi for those learning the ropes.

1. 20m (14) Follow aesthetic crack up to belay stance. DBB.

2. 30m Not really worth doing. Head right from belay stance over bulge. Up wall past two BRs to top. 50m rap to ground. BRs and anchor replaced August 2017.

Up past obvious hole in the wall. Originally done on gear, now bolted with carrots (large heads).

Tough start then up the juggy steep wall on incut ironstone holds/flakes. Slight incline from the vertical in the mid-half of the climb. 3 rings to double ring belay or up to the top and walk off.

Worth its grade for the start and some nice bridging moves up the corner.

Start: Up the left hand corner to the right of 'Shewoodenduit'.

Lace the crack up with cams and nuts. Has a nice move just before topping out.

Start: Climb the vertical crack just right of bung wall.

Start 1m L of 'Cornflake Crack'. Marked "DM".

Named after a climber killed on Crookneck. Climb up slinging drill hole, then follow line of 3 RBs to DBB. Originally led as a trad route but has been retrobolted.

Start: 5m right of High Society at tree.

Very enjoyable. The fourth pitch is runout but can be avoided.

1. 42m (12) Bridge the crack (Driftwood) until it narrows at 35 metres. Traverse right to first belay of Wall Of The Afternoon Sun (carrot bolt.)

2. 22m (15) Clean steep wall and seam directly above to big ledge on left.

3. 30m (13) Step right and up orange streak to 'Rotten Row'. Move 10 metres right to flake belay under tree.

4. 48m (14) As for final pitch of Wall Of The Afternoon Sun. Alternatively, escape up 'Rotten Row'.

2m right of 'Parents in Pain'. Look for faint blue rectangle painted at head height.

Up to the closed little corner/seam on surprising holds.

This route shares an anchor with "The Gruffalo".

Start 2m R of 'Slippery When Wet', 4m R of 'Tiger's Eye'.

Good climbing but beware the run out to the 2nd bolt = ground fall territory from the 2nd bolt. 4 RBs to DBB or clip the carrot and top out for full value. Rebolted in 2020 with RBs & equipped with lower-offs.

Start 2m R of More Smart More Safe, marked “ADD”

Some nice, flowy climbing through 6 FHs to a shared DBB. Anchor is shared with More Smart More Safe. Stick clipping the first bolt will protect the low crux.

Now fully bolted with rings.