Routes in Sutherland for selected grade

Marked TW. Classic featured wall with awesome giant thread in the middle. Up past giant thread (don't thread in case it breaks), then up to clip-and-go lower-off. For the full value tick mantle out onto the top and belay off u-bolts a few metres back. Rebolted 2015.

On the left arete 1m left of PD. Up arete past 2 Ubolts to lower-off up and right.

About 35m R of the main wall at a left facing orange corner. Easy start and up into nice corner. Pop out of the corner and up the nice headwall. All new RB's in 2014.

Start: small corner at right end of wall, up and leftwards up scooped arete to double rings. 5 rings.

If you like this sort of thing, this is the sort of thing you'll like. A classic with exposed climbing on good holds with 'sporting' bolting, but there are a few chimney moves so long pants recommended. The apparent grade depends a lot on when you started climbing: if you started in the 60s it's be 10; 70s = 13, 80s = 14. This century somewhere between 16 and 20. The obvious left leaning chimney to the right of The Cathedral cave. Up then use jugs on right arete. Above chockstone/roof thing, step around left arete and up to lower off. Technically easy but pretty out there, better to be overgraded than a sandbag I suppose....

Sydney classic at the grade! A great example of a mixed route, requiring quite a bit of trad. Start on right side of main wall at the right leading groove/flake feature with very high first bolt (stick-clip it). Up the groove (2 RBs), sling the top of the feature and take a well earned rest. Finish up a exposed flake crack on left side of arete (cams and wires) then one final RB to lower-offs.

Start at right end of cave, at right side of small trees sitting against the rock, 4m R of Sideline Jack. Up. Another nice warmup.

As Grandma's Wheelchair but climb directly through the cave to give it a punchy and fun start.

start 1m L of Dorothy May. Jump from boulder to jug just right of crack (Lean Too) and up. 3 rings and lower-off. Previoulsy bolted on coach screws, rebolted Nov 2016

Another slabby wall with a FHs. This one is a bit mossy. If you avoid the crack on the right near the end its a few grades harder.

Did you know that the first European settlers burnt most of Sydney's Aboriginal oyster shell middens to make cement? Start just right of Aardvark and climbs juggy steep scoop feature. Finish right up to the top of the cliff to lower-off anchor. All ringbolts.

The rock inside the steep scoop is fragile and can break. Be cautious.

Rebolted with real glue. A wall past a few steep moves. Go left to shared lower off with Travolta.

Good warm-up. Right most bolted route starting in a small cave off a rock ledge. 4 u-bolts and single giant u-bolt lower-off.

Start on left of crack and up to lower off.

Corner crack just left of End of The Decade. 2BR out right or can be led as trad. Good varied climbing.

Up crack 1.5m left of ST, then up of blunt arete.

Boulder problem start to Zip from under roof

Lowish start under low right hand arete with left hand in sidepulls. Move up and left to the middle of the face, then up. Sit start variant: Start matched on the right hand arete/undercling. Awkward thrutchy move to the pocket sidepull probably adds a grade.

Right side of buttress, starting at right facing corner. Tricky start then heaps of slopers right to the top. Surprisingly tricky.

Start 1m left of MacGuyer, up. Nice but tiny. Soloed then bolted.

Also excellent! Up right side of bulging slab. Use the arete to start then go left onto slab. 3 BRs to triple BB.

Climb as you like straight up or to the left or right of the climb

sit start with a hand in each break on low slab. stand up and gain big rail. Move up and right to top out.

Loose and blocky. Start on left side of face, 2m right of arete. Up slab to steeper wall with easy finish. Glue in BRs to DBB.

Start on high wall up and left of A Close Shave.

Contrived but engaging. Follow 3 BRs (staying left of the crease) to a double BB belay up on top of the cliff (or lower off BRs on ledge 2m lower down).

Start: 1m right of StN

The obvious corner system, with bomber gear - was originally marked DT. The first completed climb at Rainbow.

Left arete starting above the rusty metal. Up the arete, trying to stay away from OOW. New stainless u bolt lower offs 2021.

Below arete at right hand end of crag. Good moves past 3 FHs.

Start at lip of the boulder cave, pulling up just below first bolt. Up and slight left.

Bouldery start with surprisingly tricky top out. Start on ground, not rock on the left. Unless you want to.

Tip-toe up the ledges and edges in the middle of the wall.

Climb the face immediately right of the cave. Resist the temptation to put your foot in the stirrup 'cause this is Sydney sandstone.

3m right of FF. White marker AARD at base (to the right of 260 graffiti) Up 2 bolts on pockets and edges, take left 3rd bolt. Same finish as FF. Spotted boulder to your left is out for the start.

4m to the right of DT, climb up face, without using any of the holds on DT. At 2nd RB move to the right and up to shared lower off with 'Fatboy'. Rebolted 2021

Start 2 metres right of Monopoly: Climb into the scoop and comfortably clip the RB. Friction up the slab to reach sloping holds, continue smearing upwards and mantle shelf onto the holds. Stand up and clip the next RB. Move left to lower off Monopoly Both Monopoly & Trivial Pursuit are both excellent practise pieces for the harder slab climbs to the left. 10 metres to the right of these climbs is a pathway that descends to Angels Buttress and also another pathway upwards that joins the Cathedral descent path. To reach the Cathedral descent path climb upwards 10 metres right of Trivial Pursuit and follow the yellow and white insulation tape bands to reach the main access path

two meters left of DTE below the corner. Up the vegetated corner, then up the much better headwall

Start: left of I.E.

Sit start halfway up 'Bat Cave', follow small gully up.

Good fun sport route up the right side of the grid bolted face, and just left of major corner. Starts with a short finger crack then face to top. Single large U-bolt lower anchor.

Left most route, facing the cliff. A bit lame, but still fun. Great newbie climb. Beware of soft and lose sandstone. Much deterioration on this climb.

Starts just right of the detached block, below a small, bulgy black wall. Up (RB and FH) to BB.

Start just round the corner of LGR off detached block. Chin undercut start and follow crack (3 BRs). First move is hard.

Good fun when it's not wet. Start 1m right of MotN scoop, below thin flake. Up the flake then mantle up to ledge and large rap chain. Looks dirty but is actually quite clean.

The wide offwidth leading to a face with a bolt or two

The right arete. Mixed line to chain belay

Left side the sccop with a reachy move up high and a big tree right behind.

Start: as for I.E.

Traverse. from 1st B.R head right to M.O.B then up

Start 5m left of QB flake. Up past big pocket and black wall to ledge, then short easy wide crack through roof. Good trad gear in horizontals. take a lot of thin hand to fist sized cams.

Start: as for F.P.

Traverse. up crack then right to M.D and up.

Just left of the steep gully

Best to climb right side of the arete past good cam breaks. . Good gear.

Up rad orange wall traversing under roof to the mantle of death, then easily to anchors.

Start just below small tree growing out of rock. Head slightly right and up arête.

Arete right of SSCC11. An old Scout's top rope route. A bit runout at top to small spike runner. First recorded lead.

Start three meters right of FOTF. Up to break, then traverse left under overhangs to finish up Flight

Just like goodbyes, not all that pleasant. Shallow flaring double crack system into a chimney top. FA used a #7 as first piece, a #6 would go one move higher. Tree anchor.

Sit start with L hand in beautiful side pull just R of Pristine Slab holds. Palm down low with right and move up the middle face

Starts matched on the sloper with bad feet, then straight up. Bring a brush, this one gets very sandy after rain.

Start at small square 4m L of Lean to. Straight up past good cam break

A dirty and vegetated seam crack 5m left of Centopah. Yum.

Hand crack int he corner right of the tree. Top out right or far left.

Start on horns before dyno to lip of arete. Mantle top out

Start with left hand on obvious jug and mantle comfortably on the right hand. Climb up to the crimp rail then traverse left to the edge of the rock. Top out after reaching the edge.

Sit start with left in the pocket and right in the underling. Right one move wonder to the top and don't forget to say "Yeehaw!" As you mantle.

Start right of 'Stay Alive', but instead of following the flake, just head straight up on a blank wall of nothing. Only been top roped... for now.