Routes in North East for selected grade

Steep climbing directly up the seams just right of the big blank corner.

A variant pitch for the third pitch of Laendler and a classic in its own right. Starting and finishing on the same belay ledges. Unrelenting difficult finger-locking.

Starts at low bolt in the middle of the slab. 2 bolts to jugs at the top of the slab. a hard sequence past 4th bolt to gain the main crack in the cliff. Up and right via 2 bolts above the crack and trend right over a DBB to mantle on RH side of the cliff. DBB set back from the edge of the cliff.

Stand start the obvious line straight up over the bulge past a small heuco. Nice compression climbing with a couple big moves at the end in a great position.

Start LH sidepulling a small crack and right hand on a undercling/sidepull block. Make one big move to the lip and topout

Start as for One For The Money on good hold at head height, head straight up to an undercling for your right and nothing for your left to big finishing move to gain the lip, then mantle

Beta: https://www.youtube.com/shorts/46X9EaZ9Zx4

As for “fault line” but continue to the left hand end of the boulder, mantle with a foot on the jug.

The right arete.

Sit start on good horn hold in the centre of the wall, make some big moves to mantle

Sit start with right hand on slopey arete, left hand low on bad crimps, harder than it looks

Start down in the little cave with a good right hand and poor lefthand sloper. Move up and right through some good hold to a dynamic move to finish.

Start matched on an undercling on the pedistal to the right of the small cave. Make one move into Undertow and finish as per that problem.

Start in the good bit of the horizontal crack, then head up the face trending left on thin edges

Stand start matched on the undercling in the back left side of the roof. pull through the roof to a good edge then finish up and right to top out.

Stand start under roof on the right side with left hand in jam crack. Climb through the roof and up right side arrete

Left hand on the arete at a little higher than head height, right hand on the crimp far right at a fairly wide span. Slap your way up the arete on the left and tricky big moves up right will see you mantle right over the nose of the boulder.

The first route on the far LHS of the amphitheatre at the bottom of the descent gully. Nice grade 23 climbing up to the roof, then a desperate boulder problem over the lip of the overhang.

The hardest route so far at the crag, following a fantastic line up the face and through the big roof. Start at thin layback seam up the wall, then very thin and technical face/slab moves lead to a stance below the big roof. Stem through this, then traverse spectacularly up and left to a good rest below the final bulge. A cruxy boulder problem guards the anchors.

Interesting wall climbing and then a technical sequence through the roof. Shares an anchor with P1 of Cluecified.

A classic crack traverse. Stand start at the far left of the crack, hands holding the first two slots and a foot on the good foothold. Traverse/campus right through crimpy, slopey and juggy slots with barely any feet outside the crack. Finish matching the far right slot. Optional project toping out. FA up for grabs.

Start low laybacking the arete with a good foot. magic your way up the arete and finish matching the small juggy ledge. FA up for grabs.

Climb Brandy but use the boulder on the left for feet

Left side of nook. Sit start at large undercling and slopey rail, also using the low block for feet. Up then mantle?

Up the black streak to a technical crux at the second bolt, then up the sustained orange face above.

Technical line up the middle of the wall.

Climb “Bible Black” to first small overlap, then trend R into the top of Resurrection Sunday.

An extension to Gethsemene. After clipping the anchors, continue up the severely overhanging arete above.

Straight up the black face to a hard boulder problem.

Central route up the wall with bouldery crux at second bolt and another hard move at the top. WARNING: LOOSE BOLTS! As of Dec 2017, the first hanger has fallen off, and bolts 3, 4 and 5 need to be tightened before they can be climbed on.

Same start as Songs of Innocence, but continue right where SoI moves left and follow the steep wall to the top.

New route squeezed between Throne of Judgement & Ancient of Days. Looks contrived at the top

Sit start with left hand on blocky sloper, right hand on the lower of the two slopey rails. Move up and right via the low arete and mantle

Sit start with left hand on decent sloper rail, right hand on wide open pinch on arete, follow arete to top out

Hang. Up hanging corner

Hang. Start matched on triangular hold - up the arete

Stand start in compression, head up and right via good holds, to big move to lip

Stand start and head up through the middle of the boulder

Fantastic arete. Hard first move then keeps on going up the arete to finish topped out via mantle through the jug. As long as some routes at Hillwood.

Bolted arete + pinnacle. Stick clip the first bolt, or take some medium/large cams for the off-width at the start. Originally done completely independent of the R corner crack. DBB

On lower pinnacle. RH line of bolts. Start out right. DBB

unbolted face with DBB

Right side of arete to DBB

Face 5m to the right of NRT

The arete right of 'It’s in the Veins.' DBB.

Climbs the arete + face around the corner of Fighting The Authorities without using any of the face holds of FTA

Steep far left climb slightly up the hill

The largest roof in the south esk hosts a brutal move turning the lip on jugs, DBB set well back at the top

The thin crack with face holds left of the overhanging offwidth. Nice moves on good holds (about 22) lead to a ridiculously thin boulder problem finish and DBB.

A striking line, and a contender for the best route in the gorge. Originally done with 3 bolts (as it stands now it is equiped in the same style as the first ascent), it was the hardest climb in Tasmania at the time of the first ascent.

Start by climbing Long Knife and at ~5m place a runner (slinging the massive chockstone with a 240 runner seems to work a treat) start traversing left until the small seam is reached, place small RPs in the thin seam and then climb past a few FHs and good RPs at the lip to double chains at the top. A small cam - red or green C3 - can be nice for the very top.

Corner on L with single bolt

Stand start with your left hand in the flaring crack as close to the lip as possible and right hand on a good sloper low on the arete on the right. Make some hard moves and mantle straight over the lip. Goes without saying but the block on the right is out.

A classic ledge mantle, although somewhat height dependent. Start on some small crimps at head height, make a move up to the slanted rail and mantle up to a good hold and top out. The crack to the right is off. It may look scary, but the fall and landing are actually quite good.

Sit tart as for A2 and traverse rightwards to finish up 4's a Crowd.

Crouch start as for “Five for Five” using left side pull and right hand undercling / side pull. Trend right to link into “Toe for Tufa”. Jaime Williams (FA)

If standing in front of Condensed Ham, this boulder is about 7 meters back and to the right. Start matched on a low right facing sidepull and trend slightly leftwards over the buldge to a tricky top out. Although not technically high, the landing slopes severely only to be mitigated by the fact that if you fall from the crux (which is near the top) you'd likely land in a bush that may or may not keep you from rolling down the hill. The first ascentionist threw a pad over the bush to make himself feel better, which may work for you too. See no evil...

Sit start. Start on good holds at waist height just left of the arête. Move right around the point then up to the thin seam and up again to a good crimp rail just above. Either drop from here (easiest option),or continue right and finish as per LP9 traverse which adds a few moves but doesn't really change the grade.

Climb the first 2 or so bolts of Fox Trot 28 to the good holds on the angled rail up and right.

Cleaned and ready to go. Untried, so not sure of grade. Up for grabs if you want it! At a guess, maybe v4+

Sit start matched on large jug. Move right to crimp and make a big move up to slopes. Top out. Spotter recommended for top.

Sit start matched on sloper then climb into El Dorito and top out.

Squat start under the block on the RH side of boulder, LH on good undercling and RH on lip of the boulder, pull into toe hooks and you are away. Compress up and turn the corner to exit up and right. Would have a decent line starting on the lip where you toe hook and straight up. ~BLOCK ON THE LEFT IS OUT~

Low start to Stopped by the Fire, start with your left hand on the good edge sidepull and right hand all the way down underclinging the boulder.

Climb the flaring arete right of Bananagrams, okay holds, bad feet

Pretty low-ball, and a bit of an eliminate, but not bad climbing. Sit start on the crimp flake as for #1 but move out left and continue to do so without using the top ledge until you come to the corner, then top out.

Hang/sit start extension

Stand start project on the right of the boulder finishing as for Car Parks. Right hand on good hold, left hand on nothing good

Sit start from crack then climb up and top out. Block to your right is out.

Stand start the arete and climb to the top. A good alternative if you find you can't do the opening move to the previous problem.

Sit start on good RH crimp and good LH edge and head up into juggy rail. From here, turn the arete and dance your way up to committing mantle.

Sit start from water-polished slopers then climb Cheers.

Sit start with good LH sidepull and decent RH undercling. Punch up into decent sloping edges for both hands and then do a large move to good LH edge. Continue on to pool mantle.

Bolted face left of Meet Me By The Pylons

The central seam line. 7FH's + 2FH DBB

Shares start with Symptom of the universe then moves right at 5m follows the thin seam

The arete with many, many bolts immediately right of Who Among Them.

Start as for Powerline but head right up the arete, classic.

Sit start to the Ledge Line. Left hand in small pocket, right hand in other small pocket

Sit start with left hand on good sidepull and right hand around the arete on other opposing sidepul, make some big moves to gain horizontal break and top out left of arete.

Sit start with left hand in low crack feature and right hand in larger crack feature, head up via good edges and sidepul to undercling, top out arete from here

Stand start in the hueco pocket, head left via good incut edges all the way to left hand in pockets, head up from here and mantle over the top

Sit start with left hand on the good vertical edge and right hand on the large juggy feature same as Boston Cream. Head up straight and mantle

Stand start with right hand on good edge, left hand on good slopey edge, head up via edges and pinches through pockets to mantle top

Start way down on the lowest flake. Climb out of hole to slopers, then continue to the lip.

Start left hand on undercling, right hand on thin sloper, up left to gaston and good flat edge, then back right to undercling and upwards into the swoop. From here, stay on the swoop and head straight up for a hard and committing finish.