Routes in Tasmania for selected grade

A sustained link-up that guarantees a good workout. Start up Gun Ho, stepping L at jugs, finishing up Cadwallada. Dynamic, technical with a heartbreaking finish.

Climbs the blank face to the L of the upper section of SE. Contrived.

Sit start the series of edges through steep ground on the right side of the cave. Might have lost some holds since the first ascent, looks hard.

### Unfortunately the Owl has gone missing. ### Would be nice to find some fun replacement rock/s we could paint or keep as grip-lifting challenges.

Pinch and lift the owl painted rock with one hand. Pinching from the top.

Rules if you want a clean by the book send: To "send" The owl lifter must fully straighten up (back erect, legs and hips locked out); once standing straight, the lifter must maintain control of the owl for 1 second. Then lower the owl controlled way maintaining grip until the owl has returned to the ground.

Traverse the entire cliff from left to right.

The crag test piece. Start 2m R of 'Les Grands Ensembles', at R end of rooflet. 7 FHs, though hanger on 1st is missing (nongs!) NOTE 1st bolt now U-bolt (2017). Chains shared with 'LGE' & 'Serial Driller'.

The line of bolts to the left of The Colour of Magic. Scramble up the large corner then step right to gain the second bolt. Climb the shallow corner then move right into the thin layaway seam, following this to tricky topout.

The line just left of Killer Canary. Up corner crack via. stems and laybacks to a flared crack on the face. Awesome but runout climbing past fiddly gear leads to a short flared crack before joining Killer Canary after it's traverse.

Small offset Aliens pretty much essential to protect adequately.

You can start from the grassy ledge at wide 16ish but it's not that great, a small ledge about 12m up is comfy and avoids it.

Some of the best moves on the pipes. The two north facing arêtes of Albert's Tomb.

Tricky mantle to fridge hugging finish.

The bolted blunt arête starting just right of Completion Backwards Principle.

Wanders back and forth via. 3 distinct boulder problems.

Possibly 28.

Climb the super thin crack, passing a small overlap at the bottom. No loweroffs so take a biner for the last bolt if there's not one already there.

The bolted arête to the left of Dyazide and right of Great Southern Land, starting from the ledge at half height.

Sit start the front of the left hand pinnacle is a very hard looking 30 degree overhanging finger crack. Hard to grade V6-V9?

SDS to Passchendaele

Sit start on flake in middle of block, move left and up to mantle via left arete and right sidepull above flake. Surprisingly good problem! Don't use holds to the right of left block.

"Either a two star v6 or a one star v7." Sit start, up the face on unlikely looking holds which all seem to face the wrong direction.

Behind pelier boulder. SDS on the chockstone on the right. Using both aretes sidepull and toehook your way up to a climatic finish. Worth bringing an extra pad to stuff in the hole. Grade is very height dependant.

5 metres to the right of Le Petit Pillier is a very nice compression line. Sit start with a hand on each arete and a good left foot, strenuous from there. Stay away from the ominous hole on the left and top out straight via slightly sketchy but fun mantle directly up the lower face.

Hang start on lowest jugs, some tricky moves up the face above.

Climbs the arete and face. Sit start with crimp in the roof and left hand on positive rail.

Sit start at back of cave, big moves lead to a tricky move to gain the lip and mantle, top out up groove.

Short and intense, starts 5m right of SSSH. Bolts through overhang.

Climb Fear Factory then drop down and continue traversing along lip past another five U-bolts to a rap station.

Start as for Calm Before the Storm but go direct through the roof and to the chains of Ignition Sequence Start.

Sit start on crimps just left of Yoshimi, crank up right to good edge then continue as for Turd Burglar.

Sit start off good jug just above left hand end of low rail. Straight up to pocket and sidepulls and over bulge

Sit start at sidepull 2m left of the arete. Move right to the arete and climb up the steep side of the arete, moving right at the top.

Slightly overhanging wall R of Kickstart. 5 Bolts to lower off. Technical crux midway leading to juggier finish.

The thin crack with featuring some technical footwork. Upgraded as it's shed some holds since the FA.

Steep line of bolts right of Goating Around

traverses leftwards out of the cave to finish up the large corner. goes left on edge rails to a flat jug at bottom of corner. sit start in the cave.

Left to right traverse along the lip to finish up 'Vampire Lesbos' or 'Victory In Thebes'

Start as for Reservoir Dogs, head right and up to slopey crimp, do reachy move to the right traversing into and finish for Dis-Abeled.

Sit start on the jug, climb straight up, avoiding the left hand diagonal. Can be done as a stand start at about V3.

Sitstart on jug as per dis-abled and head up getting started on left hand pinch and compression moves to slopey sidepulls out right to gain the ear out right before toping out. Compression and awkward feet.

An excellent problem starting on a low hidden rail down and right of the crack. Climb the burly roof rightwards.

Start from edge, up and right on small holds in seam.

Climbs the first section of Kraken on pinches before roof crack. Ends at start of the roof crack.

start below "Overlooked" in the horizontal roof, then power into the cave through the roof, then finish up Filipenduluos

start below "Overlooked" in the horizontal roof, then power into the cave through the roof, then finish up Filipenduluos

Low shouldery moves from the start holds of “fat Finger” into the start of “members only”. Continue up members only to the top.

A mind-blowing line. The 3rd pitch climbs the arete left of the Free Route. The climbing is sustained and technically demanding.

1. 10m 22 Climb up to the 1st bolt on Deep Play, clip this with a long draw then drop back down a few metres to the horizontal break. Traverse left and around the arête to a stance and belay on the east face.

2. 15m 25 Blast up the face for a few metres then traverse onto the right hand arête. Climb this via a tricky and powerful crux sequence to the ledge. Note: stay on the right hand arête: if you head left at the top it will become way run out and even harder.

3. 40m 27 Starting on the big ledge, follow the finger crack (.5 and .2 camolots plus wires) to the left hand arête and first bolt. Up this past 8BR and a few bits of natural gear. Finish as the Free Route.

Gear List: • Double set of cams from .2 to .5 camolots • 2x 30cm quick draws • 1x 60cm quick draw • 14x quick draws • single 60m rope and 1 x 120cm sling • A ton of Psyche!

The original Ewbank Aid Route, now freed at 25, 26, 27, 17 by Doug McConnell.

Start as for Up, from the lip traverse right into the crimp and a hard move to gain the lay back, then finish as for Up and Away.

Superb pitch, but one of the last routes on the cliff to feel 'in condition'. The move right to the tooth from the obviously salty undercling is greasy but you can work this with some creative body tension.

Classy and sustained climbing, deserves more attention.

1. Two options for this pitch.

   30m 23

   From the belay traverse L to the big spike, from here head up and then back R to the belay.

   25m 23

   From the belay crank through the roof and up to a good rest, then climb the wall above.

2. 15m 17 An easy pitch from ledge to ledge. One bolt and gear.

3. 25m 22 Spicy moves off the ledge and the wall above, take a #2 Camalot for between 1st and 2nd bolt.

4. Two options for this pitch.

   20m 20

   From the belay traverse up and L to the corner, clipping two bolts, follow this on mixed gear and exit R at the top to the belay. Wires and small cams are useful in the corner. Gear up to #0.5 Camalot

   20m 26

   The right hand line heading direct to the belay. Awesome rock, with bouldery moves near the top. Could be harder! (fully bolted)

5. 30m 23 From the belay blast up the interesting wall past a powerful crux.

Garry’s hard RHV to pitch 4 if TGB. All bolts (10-12 on the pitch). Amazing climbing on excellent golden dolerite with some fantastic tricky sequences in the last half.

The prominent thin seam.

Closed project, direct extension on Ethereal through the two roofs and technical flared crack on the face. Looks nails.

Sit start on two opposing sidepulls, up through the slopers

Start as for Fire in the Hole, through the hueco and drop down into the bottom lip jug of Rumble via big move, finish as for Rumble.

Start as for Thriller in Manilla, climb to jug at lower lip and head left via big move into finish of Fire in the Hole.

Left hand start to Rumble in the Jungle. Start off opposing edges in roof.

Start as for Rumble in the Jungle and finish as for Fire in the Hole

Roof climbing, finishing on the starting hold of Rumble. Sit start of jugs in cave about 5m right of Rumble.

Update: The final move linking Bongo in the Congo into Rumble in the Jungle has broken and further deteriorated in around 2013/14? The linking move is now considerably harder and Bongo in the Congo including the last move now goes at around V6. Historical Grade, V4..

Start as for Flat Head and finish as for Fire in the Hole

Start as for Flounder, link into the end of 'Rumble in the Jungle' where Rumble meets the lip. Finish straight up as for Rumble.

SDS under lip 3m right of RITJ (1m left of corner). Same start holds as Flat Head. Up on slopes & crimps.

Start as for Flounder, do the first moves and head left around the bulge into the water runnel via the big sloper. Stay away from the corner and the knee bars. Stand start from big sloper up the water runnel goes at v3.

Start as for Frogger and finish as for Congaline by climbing all the way into Congaline and doing its finishing move

Starts in the back left corner of the constant gardener cave, gains the slopey lip to the left of the cave, traverses the lip to the left for about a metre and heads straight up via crimps and flat juggy holds.

SDS 2m right of TCLD. Up and out through improbable big roof.

Start basically under the big tree, topout to the right of the tree.

Sit start in back of the cave, head right.