Routes in Tasmania for selected grade

Stand Start - Up from lip 1.5m right of V3 campus broblem

Start one meter right of Six V6, hang start the crimpy jug, move up and left, and mantle the short headwall via some sharp crimps.

Grade needs confirmation. Stand start low on the arete, left hand moving between lip and face holds, right hand stays on arete. Finish over highest point on boulder.

Up thin holds to slopers. Don't use any handholds on Warm Me Up.

Start in slot, out to slopey edge, fire for lip, continue to top on average holds. Sometimes a little sandy after it hasn't been climbed for a while, but a real classic.

Start as for Time, then trend left at half height to meet no 4. and finish as for that

Stand start but very reachy to first hold. A crucial foothold has snapped off, making this climb much harder. Grade is unconfirmed.

5m right of Lloyd's Dyno, sitstart up flake, then right and up thin slab

Hang start on low ledge with your heel up. Move right along the line for a couple of metres to finish on jug. The extension through the lip and top out would probably go.

Start on the left side of the main face and climb a thin seam up, then right, to pass the small roof at the left end of the ledge that cuts across the cliff. Ascend a nice groove to increasingly desperate climbing on the lovely headwall, 17 U bolts.

Climb a pumpy wall to the ledge, then continue up a thin groove to very technical moves in the very narrow groove above. 14 U bolts.

Start up Event Horizon but continue straight up through a very steep groove. From a cramped rest swing out madly over the hard final roof. 7 bolts to a lower off.

Up left side of prow to the jugs above the old carrot. Continuing on towards the prow will tale some balls.

Start at narrow pocket, move left to arete and up

Start on pockets then up and left to the big sloper - still awaiting a topout.

Start right hand on the pinch and left on the gaston, up to slope then big pull to the top.

Start left hand in crack. bad feet and bust up to big sledge hammer jug.

The tall line up the prominent black streak. A classic highball with the crux exactly where it's supposed to be, at the top.

It's very hard to say how hard this is, maybe around V-6ish. Sit start with your right hand on the bottom most hold on the flake and the left hand on a small edge, slap up the flake to the jugs and head up the easy top out.

Up on pockets from right hand side of the scoop on the left side of the wall.

Stand - Starting on the jugs at head height up to the corner of the seam, past a crimp rail, to join Everything is Illuminated (a left healhook on the jugs is key). Probably a touch harder than Everything is Illuminated but not much.

Stand - Start on the jug at the right hand end of the wall, head straight up the face to top out.

The classic high arete on the right edge of the J'Aimerais Bien Francais wall.

The obvious sit-start on two edges heading up the face below the main arête of the boulder.

Start matched on the one-pad edges on the steepest part of the wall, head up and left to top out.

Stand - Slab through little bulge. Harder than it looks.

Sit start on the jug to the right of the arete. Up via thin crack and crimp to slopers, trend left on jugs to meet arete, crank up through easy moves to the top. Beware of loose blocks!

Arete past some FH's.

The direct finish to Sweetie, and great climbing in a super location. Start as for Acerb but go R. Clip the first BR of the lip of the roof, then launch out R (technical) to a stance and the second BR. Trend back L and climb up on sidepulls and a tiny foothold (crux) to jugs, to finish up Sweetie.

Start at the back of the cave, move to the lip, follow the diagonal crack up and right to finish up the grove.

Stand start on good crimp, 3 big moves lead to chalked jug in horizontal break.

Where the track meets the cliff, up the left side of the overhang. Starting left of the first bolt, come back right and blast up the short, thin arete.

The short slab of immaculate stone under the roof requires steel fingers and some fancy footwork.

Climb gambit but at second last bolt head left via. a big move for a slightly easier finish.

Start as for firewall but head left and up the sustained headwall.

The left line of bolts on the main overhang

Right of fire starter, solid tick for the grade.

Direct start to fawks, less pumpy, more bouldery. Better, more sustained finished to trend right at the top but can be finished up fawks original as well.

First bolted line right of Hydra. Climbing starts from the ledge, stick clip the first or carefully climb to it. Not the best climbing but on amazing rock.

The mega link up, start on Hercules, reverse three daggers slopey traverse, and finish on Caligula. It’s long, contrived and needs to be bolted properly but hey... if you get bored, it’s fun! (Down climbing at the waterfall to rest is for losers and you only get to take half the grade)

Start directly under the waterfall,upwards to the top ledge however you please, then begin your traverse left through some awesome moves, and surprisingly outstanding Crimps and ledges, to the final spicy move, a lot of foresight into this route from one of the emperors of the colloseum

An excellent climb starting in the steep alcove just right of Caligula. Up this to the ledge then blast up the steep face past some small holds to a pumpy traverse right on slopers. Finish up the last section of Hercules.

Direct finish to Hercules has a vicious boulder problem guarding the chains.

Climbs the crux of Fed to the Lions before breaking out left and following the break to finish up left hand side of the head wall. Classic power endurance route with a heart breaking last move.

Star under the route Et tu, Brute. Straight out to finish in the big dish above the lip .

Obvious line through the small roof at 7m, pull around this on the left and trend diagonally leftwards to the base of the roof. Through this and mantle into the headwall above.

The line goes straight up the middle of the wall. Intense and bouldery

P1. (18) Up NMMNG but continue up and right instead or traversing right. Belay at a comfortable slopy stance. P2. (26) Thin crack on steep arete. Traverse right at roof past a bolt to DBB. P3. (17+) Given 17, sandbagged. Up steep fist cracks top

Pure slab in the middle of Alchemy Wall. 6 U-bolts + 1 or 2 small cams climb to first bolt. Crux begins at fourth bolt with flake. Thin moves up to flaring crack (can use wires to protect) and straight up to ledge. Place #3 Camelot in break, climb the final bulge to the top. Needs grade confirmation.

Start as for 'Tribute', then swing left past a few more bolts up the face.

The right arete of ‘Pharos headstone’, start with low left side pull and right hand on sloper arete slap up to top out as for Pharos headstone

Hang-start on the lip and campus up.

On the L side of the long wall L of Dumpster, climb via a desperate boulder problem start via 5 B to DBB.

Spectacular, steep and sustained. One of the finest routes of this grade and style in Tasmania. (fully equipped). Start 25m right of The Meaning and climb the left trending dyke to DBB above pitch 2 of Highway to Hell.

Climb a grade 15 crack for 8 meters to gain the big ledge. A wicked striking corner. Classic. Maybe the best 26 at the factory.

Climb Power Of The Percolator until you reach the roof with a fixed hanger at about half hight. Climb R and finish up Antimatter. Really fun, worth doing. You will be sucking up for air if you are unfit.

The awesome shallow corner to the right of the obvious choss ramp. Up this via. some very technical moves a bit uncharacteristic of the factory. Lower off the last bolt (with ring) in the corner for the 27. Exiting onto the slab is guarded by a hard boulder problem of around V8/V9 and is still a closed project. Finish up Balance of evil. A #2 camalot can be used before the first bolt but is not essential.

Writing up as is because the only other sport climb around this grade at the factory is Street Fighter so this is a welcome addition.

10 meters R of the fixed walking rope. Up the amazing crack to a rest, then up the hanging groove. Wires and friends up to #3.

Classic intro to the harder climbs at the Star Factory. Up a nice looking corner to a big ledge. Then up thin groove. The moves are insecure and the feet are slick and mean.

The far LH side of the wall. 8 bolts up a nice yellow arête, with a tricky finish.

This is a little goodie. Up the fixed rope to the base. Climb the amazing face above with some dynamic moves downwards and left towards the top. Could go direct at the last bolt, but so far every one has gone L on the bigger holds. The best 27 the Factory has to offer.

Excellent climbing with two insecure crux sections. Starts for Simply the Best and Finish up Hubris.

Gear required for upper section is a selection of cams from #.3 to #2.

The furthest line R on this bit of the wall. Power up steep wall (crux) to good rest. Continue easily, with tricky move at half height. 9 U-bolts + lower-offs. Best done with the first two bolts pre-clipped.

Starts 2m R of the belay on the Men's Gallery ledge. Up face and corner system via some unlikely looking moves. A really good resistance route.

Starts 4m left of Wild Winds. Up on good holds to hard boulder problem, then easily to the top. Excellent climbing.

Climb the first two bolts of The Axiom then follow bolts out right.

Climb the arete right of Ju Ju.

Toproped clean.

1. 26 Start up steep corner just left of 'Off, Like A Maggotty Cat'. Up this to join original line.

2. 20 Unfortunately continue up this until ledge 15m below summit.

3. 25 Climb short smooth water runnel corner to summit.

1. Sidle out right along ledge from start of Incipient and climb the flakes (natural gear) to double fixed hanger below.

2. Climb the flake feature and corner above, with crux moves pulling into the hanging corner four bolts from the top.

Some very thin slabbing