Routes in South East

Low start, varied moves then delicate balancy move to pinch the black horizontal hold.

Jack Jumper

A two pitch escape route to get you back up the rap route. Grade 12, 16

SDS - LH line up spaced jugs to top out

The back left corner. Hands in the crack and straight up over lichen covered holds (yeah needs a scrub)

Left side of face

Steep start then keep following the U's

Sit start, 4m right of the route Et tu, Brute. Out through roof to the lip . Then up to jug.

The classic of the crag

Start as for Physical Romance and finish up Mat loves Nat (keep feet above the undercut, not as contrived as it sounds).

Finger crack.

The difficult layaway corner on the right of the buttress. Has spat-off many competent leaders over the years. Place high gear at the crux and take a #4 cam for the top crack.

Up face via small cams in seam and FH's to DBB.

Abseil from climbers left of slabs to belay at top of P1. First pitch starts 15 m lower. P2 is a rising traverse to right, easily combined with P3 to ledge. P4 short bouldery wall, or thrutch up offwidth to right.

S2

nice hand crack with tricky move on loose-ish rock

Start in the wide crack right of 'High Noon' (or climb directly up the face) step L onto the face, interesting climbing past U bolts to DBB. E. Bradley, A. Williams, J Spong, 2004.

Sit start on crimps up arete via slopers absolute classic

Open Project for the bold and reckless. Needs further inspection of the flake whether it will stay in place. Start with the finger crack below the roof, reach to the hold on the edge of the roof, Continue up the groove and layback the big flake to the ledge. Continue up the finger crack on the face above

Sit start.

Fun cranking through the roof (crux) and up the face to the ledge. Then follow the blunt arete to finish on its LHS, mantle and lower-off. Fully bolted - use a locker on the first bolt.

Take some medium cams for the bottom

V3/4. Sit start on good edges, move up and onto slab via small holds to top.

The butress of rock you arrive at when walking from the bottom. The obvious corner finishing around R of small overhang.

SDS under roof left of Sanguine Direct. Out, around bulge to finish on the same jug hold as Sanguine Direct.

Start as for Mr Blonde, but go right up seam then up right side of groove to desperate top out.

Stand Start. Start on the black rock a few metres in from the lip on the left side of the cave, at a bit of a ridge 2 metres from the very back. Use Gaston like sloper and right hand pinch with feet in roof. Climb out into Fire in the Hole and top out the same. Originally V10 turned V8 and back up to around V9 after two holds broke.

The steep arete on the back of the boulder. Start low on slopers.

Start up the crack a couple of metres left of Crack of Doom. Move right into Crack of Doom at the Top. Good moves and improving rock as you go higher, a tad committing but with a flat landing.

The dirty chimney to the right.

Sit start out right on the jug and traverse across the slopey break before finishing up Nice Jugs, or harder up The Double.

Start matched on the one-pad edges on the steepest part of the wall, head up and left to top out.

Hang Start - Follow the buckets to stand on the ledge. Down climb or don the moss slippers for the top.

The vertical wall to the right. The following problems all have lichenous topouts, brush them before climbing. Climb left hand arete

Stand Start - Start as for The Antichrist, but go straight out through the roof.

Start as for previous problem, crank straight up to the lip (rather than move right) and do the slopey top out.

Start on Sloper in the middle of the face and head left via crimp rail to top.

Line of bolts right of Heat Pump. Climb P1 of Heat Pump to access ledge. Follow the corner to a ledge, then continue up face and arete on some sharp holds

Amazing. Start in hand crack just right of main cliff, which trends left leading to a line of bolts. Technical and engaging corner climbing past 6 bolts, then into a finger crack (0.75 camalot), and past a final bolt to the top. Take BD cams 0.5, 0.75, 1, 2, 3.

Left hand side of high face

SDS right on good side pull, left hand opposed on sloper. Keep slapping left up and directly mantle eliminating all the easy stuff to the right.

Sit start between arete and tree, up to right crimp, left sloper, bigger move to high jug and up.

Sloper on lip 2m left of Lucifer

SDS

As for low traverse but hands only on the thinner line

SDS just left of right arete. Up via slopey holds, finish as for Training for Font 1.

Start at the back of the cave, move to the lip, follow the diagonal crack up and right to finish up the grove.

Up the wall using only one hand hold and one foot hold

Up slab center of the left face.

Brilliant fun little chimney - stay near the entrance. First ok nut placement is 12m up, so top-roping is recommended

Up the 45 degree overhung side of the obvious dildo.

Corner

Sandy jugs opposite Joker's Jackpot.

SDS on good flake and up crack.

1. 15m Trad. Block hop into the chimney then up it, easy but not much pro, to the DRB.

2. 25m Sport. Fully bolted. Up the arete. 12 bolts plus something to clip the chains. The missing first bolt was recently replaced (Dec 2018)