Routes in Tasmania for selected grade

SDS. One metre left of previous.

Sit start

Sit start, up the face between the cracks.

Sit start up the crack.

Sit start, up the left edge.

Hand crack maybe? Couldn't read my notes.

Double mantle

Start as for Mullets In Paradise, traverse right then top out.

Separate boulder to Lilo and Two Mat boulders, which is on the right as you walk in. Up through the crappy dirty holds to a crappy dirty finish. Easy and unsatisfying, and yet it's also unreasonably dangerous for the grade.

Far left end of the crag. Start on jug, straight up.

SDS

Up the the arête, it's a jugfest all the way.

The very left of the Mushroom there is a tree. Climb up behind this.

Climb up just R of the tree via a big foot hold.

Step up onto the slab and go diagonally R to finish R of the vegetation.

Chimney up behind the tree.

Climb the seam behind tree, direct to the sky.

Behind the tree right of Front Porthole.

Up slab on very L of The Wave.

L. side of boulder.

Up ledges on the R. side of the Elf Cave.

Escalater Direct

R edge of the slab.

Step onto the slab and up.

Stand start the L side of the arete.

Stand start R side of the rib.

Stand start R arete of boulder.

Left arete of overhanging face. V0 for sit start.

Chimney up the corner using the big tree.

Edge right of One Hander.

The first route you arrive at when walking in from the north. Chimney.

The down climb access route. -S0

the obvious line to get out of the water, reach the top of the rocks and continue to the main area

Halfway between Just Right and Smooth Sailing is a thin crack. Up this and the proceeding juggy staircase above which ends on a small pillar. Step right above the void and belay/abseil from the anchor on smooth sailing. Quite a good ramble.

The deep and dark chimney on your right just before the rock-hop to the main crag. Climb the chimney and exit via the hole in the top between the huge boulder. Can be easily protected if you want to rope up.

Do Jihad and Rain of Terror, put your walking shoes back on, then:

1. Walk to the other (southeast) end of the Wedding Cake to 2 bolt anchor.

2. Abseil 35m down the southwest side (down the grade 16 Wedding Cake Return Pitch) to bushy area.

3. Walk NORTHWEST for 30-40m, down a few metres, then back southeast for ~150m (exposed at times) to where the track ends in a little alcove below some 6m high cracks/corners. Squeeze through the slot to rubble ledge and big spike.

4. 55m The Stegosaurus Pitch! Great fun. Place minimal pro on this to avoid drag, your primarily protecting the second, its mostly scrambling. Up the LH corner or the crack just R (same grade) onto the ridge. Then head southeast over the lumps, up 5m chimney onto the biggest lump, then chimney 8m down off it (due to the amount of rope out, both leader and second are basically soloing these chimneys), and walk/scramble another 15m southeast to 2 bolt rap anchor atop the next chimney.

5. 38m abseil/walk diagonally down the ramps above the seal colony to the base of Pole Dancer. You can place 1 or 2 cams (#1-3 range) as directionals for both abseilers, and leave them there as lead pro for the return scramble. This is the only spot where a single 70m rope is not quite enough but it's a good ledge by the time you run out of rope so no problem if you are ready to go off the ends. You are now at the base of the Pole Dancer first pitch chimney.

Exit/Entry route

Head straight up the face on the right hand side of the corner using the large plate.

Layback sit start, continue laying back until you top out!

Climbs the finger crack. Easy and fun!

Traverse right to left, no top holds!

Traverse right to left using the top holds.

left of descent scramble

Same start as Matt Damon!, easy but freaky top out directly above.

Arete