Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Mount Buffalo The Gorge - South Side Isotope Wall | |||||
20 | ★★ Diamond Dogs
A new bolt with rap ring (added in 2023) now augments the single old carrot and dubious peg that formed the belay at the end of p2. | 65m | |||
26 | ★★ Manhattan Project
Looks good.
FA: Ian Anger & Steve Monks, 1993 | 80m, 2 | |||
27 | ★ Oppenheimer's Monster
A rough/crystalline, flaring, diagonal crack... hmmm! Starts at the double rap ring at the end of p1 of Manhattan Project.
FA: Malcolm Matheson & Ian Anger, 1994 | 45m | |||
20 | Isotope
| 82m | |||
19 | Stumble On A Chimp's Dick
| 110m | |||
16 | Bitter Sweet
| 88m | |||
Mount Buffalo The Gorge - South Side Angels' Buttress | |||||
23 | ★★ Pearly Gates
| 110m | |||
16 M1 | WAFTT Original Variant
The worthless route taken by the first attempt on what is now the classic climb; | 230m | |||
18 | Fool's Gold
| 160m | |||
18 | Charon Direct Finish
| 140m | |||
20 | The Fallen Angel
| 220m | |||
Mount Buffalo The Gorge - South Side Disabled Lookout Area | |||||
18 | Autocrat
| 75m | |||
20 | Autocrat Direct Finish
| 40m | |||
20 | Three Amigos
| 25m | |||
22 | Mayday
| 65m | |||
Mount Buffalo The Gorge - South Side Bent's Lookout | |||||
18 | Steadfast Steamer
| 30m | |||
22 | Willie Make It
| 25m | |||
27 | ★★ Flair
| 50m | |||
21 | Hard Rain Variant
| 40m | |||
23 | ★★ Hurricane
| 38m | |||
21 | The Establishment
| 110m | |||
23 | ★★ The Establishment Dyke Finish
| 120m | |||
16 | ★★ The Establishment Direct Start
| 25m | |||
17 | Boadicea
| 130m | |||
16 | Caliph
| 160m | |||
20 | War Pigs
| 60m | |||
24 | Gnarly Clips And Nothing Grips
| 12m | |||
Mount Buffalo The Gorge - South Side Burston's Crevasse | |||||
17 | Grandstand
| 35m | |||
21 | ★★ Backless
From the 2 carrot belay, follow the dramatic corner. When the difficulties ease, traverse left to follow cracks to the top. | 20m | |||
project 2
up orange streak to crack and ledge. | |||||
project 1
line of bolts up black streak then heads up the arete. | |||||
25 | Stone Believer
| 37m | |||
16 | Deli Belly
| 15m | |||
12 | Dodgy Bros.
| 12m | |||
Mount Buffalo The Gorge - South Side Sewer Wall | |||||
19 | Diagonal Darkie
| 35m | |||
19 | Winnie The Pooh
| 88m | |||
18 | Sahara
| 40m | |||
18 | Flayed
| 58m | |||
18 | Moondance
| 20m | |||
19 | Penetrator Crack
| 30m | |||
18 | Gabriel Corner
| 47m | |||
12 | Escape Route
| 45m | |||
Mount Buffalo The Gorge - South Side The Oval Area | |||||
17 | ★★ Wicked Solitaire Variant
| 15m | |||
Mount Buffalo The Gorge - South Side The Waterfall South Side | |||||
23 | True Dinks
| 35m | |||
23 | Dizzy Limits
| 40m | |||
23 | Commander Dildo
Start on a detached block about 5m left of Pussy On the Prowl. A flake came off at the start, probably adding a grade or two.
FA: Illawara Rock Climber Association, 1982 | 50m, 2, 5 | |||
23 | ★★ Interstellar Boredom
| 38m | |||
15 | ★★ Falls Corner
| 70m | |||
19 | Pulsing Sally
| 30m | |||
22 | Chip Buttie
| 15m | |||
24 | ★ The Mormon Sanction
| 85m | |||
25 | ★ Salt Lake City
| 170m | |||
Mount Buffalo The Gorge - South Side Cassia Corner | |||||
20 | Sicilian Dragon
| 45m | |||
Mount Buffalo The Gorge - North Side Pulpit Rock (Comet Ramp) | |||||
22 | ★ Needling Doubt
| 60m | |||
19 | In The Same Vein
| 37m | |||
16 | Dag
| 40m | |||
18 | Comet Ramp Variant Crack
| 40m | |||
Mount Buffalo The Gorge - North Side North Wall | |||||
25 | Straight Edge
| 160m | |||
28 | ★★★ Rough Justice
| 170m | |||
21 | Emperor
| 150m | |||
27 | ★★★ Forgotten Playground
An outstanding, sustained and varied free climb that challenges the full gamut of granite styles. This is a distinctly more approachable prospect than the other free routes on this end of the wall consisting of generally easier cruxes, fewer run-outs and less small gear. The route follows a logical line of features incorporating sections of the aid routes Knocking on Heavens Door, She, Clouded Queen, Ozymandias and Strange Ritual. Most pitches include a mix of natural gear and bolts. Take a standard rack up to a 3 Camalot including some micro cams, small and medium wires.
FFA: lee cossey & Andrea Hah, 15 Jan 2017 | 220m, 5 | |||
23 | ★ Primary
Brilliant hand jamming! Start 60 m below Wilkinsons Lookout on grassy ledge. Curving hand crack .... FA: Eddie Ozols & Greg Pritchard, 1982 FFA: Peter Croft & M Matheson, 1990 | 40m | |||
23 | ★ Primary Variant
| 40m | |||
17 | Unadulterated
| 35m | |||
Mount Buffalo The Gorge - North Side Young Galaxians Pinnacle | |||||
22 | ★★ Young Galaxians
| 10m | |||
Mount Buffalo The Gorge - North Side The False Modesty Pinnacle | |||||
22 | Seclusion
| 30m | |||
21 | ★ Ant Jamb
| 25m | |||
23 | ★ Brontosaurus
| 60m | |||
23 | Flight Of The Pterodactyl
| 60m | |||
25 | Modesty Blaise
| 30m | |||
Mount Buffalo The Gorge - North Side Queen Victoria Buttress | |||||
22 | Death and Disfiguration
| 45m | |||
17 | ★ Prince Albert's Route
| 77m | |||
17 | Prince Albert's Route Variant
| 30m | |||
22 | ★ Magnum
Start as for Heaven on a Stick.
FA: Bob Cowan, Matt Roper & Greg Garnham, 1995 | 50m, 2, 2 | |||
26 | ★★★ Heaven On A Stick
Fix a rope from the top of the first abseil in order to exit the route. From the chain at the top of the slab immediately behind (west) of the top of Queen Victoria pinnacle, abseil 40m to reach the notch behind the pinnacle. From the outer edge of the ledge on the north side of the pinnacle, abseil from the chain, down the route to a grassy ledge. Up the finger crack and seam, past a peg runner (not in situ) to the base of a corner. Up this and slab to the chain (belay). FA: Ian Anger, Malcolm Matheson & Rene ?, 1992 | 45m | |||
25 | ★★★ The Devil Made Me Do It
| 95m | |||
24 | Send Out For More Pizza
The prominent right-leaning crack-line with an orange right wall. 15m down L of the original (corner) start of Gaia.
FA: Kevin Lindorff & Russell Crow, 1991 | 85m, 2 | |||
23 | ★★ Wall To Wall
Start from a small ledge (single bolt plus wire belay) below the small corner just up L from the original (corner) start of Gaia. Approach via a 50m abseil from gums close to the edge at the top of the buttress. Alternatively, abseil as per the access to Gaia.
FA: Kevin Lindorff & David Jurke, 1991 | 50m | |||
24 | ★★ Gaia
Access via a 75-80m abseil from chains. This rap station is located beside a huge gum tree that leans out precariously (and no doubt is destined to fall into the depths of the gorge under its own weight), on the rim of the gorge around about 50m (?) around northward and down a little from the north edge of the top of the Queen Victoria buttress. This rap station can be used to access Wall to Wall, Send out for More Pizza, Gaia, White Knuckle Days and Statute of Limitations. The abseil can be broken into two, utilising the double bolt belay at the top of the first pitch of Gaia and WKD. There is now a bolted, independent, direct start to the original version of Gaia, as well as an extra bolt in the top of the first pitch, and two bolts in the top pitch. This new reincarnation provides a more even, sustained, but less death-defying route than the original. The first pitch, in particular, is one to savour. Start at the double hangers, mid-way between the original start of Gaia (in the corner) and White Knuckle Days.
FA: Kevin Lindorff & Tony Marian, 1989 FA: Kevin Lindorff, Malcolm Matheson & Andy Schmutter, Feb 2018 | 75m, 2, 10 | |||
24 | ★★★ White-knuckle Days
An exceptional first pitch - sustained, varied and continuously engaging. Access via 80m of abseiling from the top of Gaia (there is a new set of rap chains at the top showing the way. The 80m can be broken into two abseils by using the new belay station 40m down on Gaia, though a single 100m static rope makes life easier and provides a retreat option if required). Starts from the double carrot bolt belay between Gaia and Statute of Limitations (see p112 of the 2006 comprehensive Mt Buffalo guidebook).
FA: Kevin Lindorff & Andy Schmutter January 2018 | 80m, 2, 10 | |||
24 | ★★ Statute Of Limitations
Access as for Gaia and White Knuckle Days or by using a sizeable gumtree a little further northward along the gorge rim. Best to leave an abseil rope in place in case retreat needs to be sounded. Start approx 20m right of Gaia (and a few metres around right from the start of White Knuckle days) at a 2BB.
FA: Kevin Lindorff & Jeremy Boreham, 1995 | 50m, 2, 5 | |||
18 | We Are Not Amused
| 30m | |||
21 | Elizabethan
| 220m | |||
Mount Buffalo The Gorge - North Side Queen Victoria Summit Rim | |||||
17 | C.F.C.
| 25m | |||
23 | Blowbak
| 25m | |||
22 | Turn Back Time
| 25m | |||
Mount Buffalo The Gorge - North Side Queen Victoria Gully | |||||
16 | Rod's Phoenix
| 27m | |||
23 | Purple Heart
| 45m | |||
14 | Silent Receiver
| 110m | |||
18 | Stumble on a Daffodil
| 40m | |||
22 | Powth Towh
| 20m | |||
21 | David Generator
| 25m | |||
22 | The Last Remake
| 25m | |||
Mount Buffalo Reservoir Environs Wombat Rocks | |||||
20 | Aerobics Oz Style
| 55m | |||
22 | Feral Wombats
| 30m | |||
20 | Diddly Squat
| 25m | |||
17 | Nightmare On Tunbridge Way
| 30m | |||
16 | Truffle Hunter
| 25m | |||
20 | ★ Alfisti
| 40m | |||
22 | ★ Babyface
| 25m |