Routes as unknown in North East

Essentially an escape off left from 'Stiletto'

Line of fixed hangers up dyke to join 'Weekend Hustlers'.

Easy but unprotected slabbing. It is quite possible that the last couple of pitches of 'Good Luck And Good Management' merge into this route. Follow the walking track from the hairpin bend to the first bend in the track. Traverse across the hillside for about 50 metres until the edge of the slab is reached. Descend next to the slab for about 15 metres to a scrubby ledge on the right (facing out).

P1 (53m, 10) Go up past right edge of an overlap, swing up left onto slab above. Straight up black rock for about 15 metres to a traverse line and go 5 metres left to a grassy scoop. Follow the line directly above until it meets a dyke on the left. Up dyke for a couple of metres to belay off a small wire just past a small overlap on left. P2 (30m, -) Stroll up.

The prominent R-leaning diagonal crack down from Ring-a-Ding Ding

The top half of this route was destroyed by the Sep 2021 Earthquake, See route 'shake and quake" for the new re-established route.

Access best by using a 100m static to abseil the approx 85m (?) from the top of Home James, down that route, continuing down past 'Back in an Hour' and through the hole/'cave' formed by chock-stones which brings you out onto a large grassy ramp/ledge. Stay on the abseil rope for the short scramble down rightward (facing in) to a bolt anchor above Wild Blue Yonder. Another short (30m?) abseil from bolts gets you to the start of that climb (at the ledge above Goat's Head Soup). The original route (17, scarier with just a single carrot bolt) started about 10m left of Goat Island - one or two moves from the left end of the ledge accessed the big diagonal ramp/line. This better version (18, more direct and well protected) starts about 6 or 7 m right of the original.

1. 30m Up via a bolt runner (18) to gain the 'line'. Follow the dyke diagonally left to the original carrot bolt then up the slab via three FHs to a ledge and bolt anchor. From here, it is easy to scramble up around left and eventually hit the south side climbers' access track. Alternatively:

2. "25m Head up to the 'Goat Island' belay.

3. 40m L to arête, up, staying to the right of the vegetated gully, belay beneath chockstone. Scramble up unpleasant vegetated gullies to arrive below the hand-over-hand chain" (Mt Buffalo 2006 guidebook, Lindorff and Murray)

Bolts replaced 2021.