Routes in Victoria for selected grade

Nice varied climb. The next buttress R of the King Billy buttress has a steep bushy gully in the centre [about 10m R of RB].

1. 12m (17) The clean arete just R the gully moving R when the angle eases to belay on ledge.

2. 15m (16) Corner then out R to finish up steep line.

Nice climbing but a bit obscure. Gains the crack on the face right of the finish of Free Range from the gully right of the wall. From the abseil chains above Male Bonding abseil down 18m heading for the treed ledge in the gully on the left. Belay at the trees. Climb the short, steep crack and flake on the left side of the gully to a stance around the arete. Up the crack above. Can also be accessed by walking left along the narrow ledge above the initial crack on P2 of Male Bonding.

Possibly follows the carrot and FH around the R side of the block? Looks decent enough.

on right wall of descent gully (40m left of right end of cliff). 6m left of arete, flared crack heading left then back right and wander around run out ground to top

The second pitch was first led in driving rain. A variant on 'Wallscrawl'.

Starts left of Piss n' Wind. Up easy ground to steepening orange face, following discontinuous cracks and breaks to small V-corner. Up grey rock above, trending right at 35m to finish as for Piss n' Wind.

Left of Flakeridge Slab from the good lowish diagonal footer up direct via smallish holds.

Wide and ugly, but atleast its clean. The short wall at the top of the descent route, just L of HTW. The obvious offwidth crack.

Up wall, the head R to ledge. Move R again then up.

Start: Just L of 2nd gully is a wall with orange and black rock.

Wide crack middle of the Fourth Tramway Boulder

The first climb up the impressive face right of "John The Baptist". The crux pitch is difficult to protect and has friable rock. It is possible that the final two pitches were climbedearlier by Colin Abbott and Richard Morris in Easter 1987 but they may have been on the finish of "Buddha's Wall" instead.

Start: There is an orange and grey corner 63 metres left of "Buddha's Wall". Start immediately right of the corner, below a chimney.

1. 40m (-) Climb up to a right-leading chimney and climb it to a ledge at its top. Go up the groove leading up from the ledge to belay at the long ledge-slot (start of the "Catwalk" traverse.

2. 25m (-) Climb the giant flake above then up a juggy groove to a stance on a "fin".

3. 45m (-) Go up right into the main line and follow it to the top of the huge block on the First Terrace.

4. -m (-) Clamber down into the chasm behind the block to the foot of the line of weakness up the wall behind. This is just left of the centre of the block and 30-50 metres right of the Exit Cracks.

5. 15m (-) The line to an alcove.

6. 35m (17) Up the line above (difficult protection, friable rock) to grassy ledges level with Second Terrace. Scramble off left (roped) to Second Terrace and escape left.

Some nice slabbing on both pitches. Just R of JJ. P1 (30m, 17, 2 bolts) Up over bulge past 2 bolts [take flat hangers] and on more easily, but a bit runout, to belay as for JJ

P2 (35m, 17, 3 bolts) Up thin crack as for JJ past FH, up R onto ledge. Move 2 meters R until under short crack starting 5m up. Up to and up crack then continue up clean streak above past 2 FHs. Cross the bushy diagonal line and continue up the streak to DBB. Abseil descent.

Start between medium and small scoops of Tweble Cone Western aspect to gain the small scoop then up and over scoops to the top of large scoop.

Take crack 2 metres right of "No Holds Barred". Where the crack fades, step right and up steeply.

Start: 15m R of Upper Crust is a L facing corner, initialled. A worthwhile outing at the grade.

1. 20m (17) L facing corner then overhanging crack to sloping ledge. R to sentry box, then crack to ledge.

2. 15m (17) Cross crevasse and up wall to steep R tending seam in headwall, up this [route originally exited off L].

P2 added by Philip Armstrong, John Stone 20-11-2011

Attractive thin crack on R side of wall 2m R of OO. Easier climbing above ledge.

The RH crack on the main face, lovely rock, moves and gear.

11m R of Mughlay a short steep crack with a block 1m to its R. Crack [use block] to a tricky exit. BD#4 useful.

Right of Low Angle Slabs via the obvious step.

Right-slanting dog-leg crack just right of 'Dynamic'

Start off the flake then trend L to short L-facing corner. Up this then pass roof above just R of centre.

Start: About 2/3rds of the way up the 2nd gully is a flake resting against the wall.

1 BR

The first climb of the area.

Start: Climbs the major corner in the middle of dreamtime wall left of a dramatic, unclimbed right angle flake line.

1. 45m (16) Up right wall of orange corner. Left round overhang and traverse left to foot of corner.

2. 25m (6) To tree then left line up corner to ledge of left.

3. 30m (17) Delicately up, then crack.

Good, delicate and well protected slab climbing. The slab and shallow cracks 5 meters left of Aelutian Crack. Climb short grassy crack onto the slab then follow the cracks to the base of the compact red/orange corner. Move left and finish up 'Cindy'.

An OK sort of slab adventure with adequate protection. At the very RH end of the cliff where you first arrive when walking in.

P1 (25m, 16) About 15m L of the major gully corner formed between the slab and the large steep buttress. Up the cleaned slab to FH, a few meters above the bolt there are some knobbly holds which take a cam around 2BD size, up and R above this to the large tree.

P2 (25m, 8) Step R and up thru juggy break in overhang. Follow the easy diagonal crack Rward to below the attractive L curving corner.

P3 (25m, 17) Up corner and out L to FH. Thin moves up to and over bulge. Step L and climb head wall.

Up line 2m R or DPC past a BR and up the blunt arete.

Start 2m left of U2 and climb straight up past a good hold on the left circled by a pale yellow graffiti letter 'O'.

Up between medium and small scoops of Tweble Cone Southern aspect to gain the small scoop then up and over scoops to top of large scoop.

Climb the small wall 2m L of On Probation.

It will give you just that lol. Start on the back of the main pinnacle opposite Pacemaker. Jam the crack to the top.

Squeezed in.

Enjoyable face and arete. 40m R of HofH is a buttress with an orange seam towards it L side, a few meters L of a deep line with 2 wide cracks up it. Steeply up seam until it ends at horizontal break, L to arete, up just R of arete to ledge. Line just L of arete to top. Cairned.

Nothing to write home about, but nice trad / inconsistent crack line just L of roof/cave. Bolts on Pulled Out to start.

SDS as per SW13 continuing straight up the arete.

In the nineteenth century, the incessant westward expansion of the United States incrementally compelled large numbers of Native Americans to resettle further west, often by force, almost always reluctantly

Start: Steeper and harder than it looks! Starts about 4-5m right of "Yatzi" (about 100m south of 'Shaken, not stirred', which doesn't fit with 'Yatzi' being 36 metres left of 'Thunderball') below big roof, the attractive 18m high crack finishing at a steep roof with a very steep offwidth crack.

R of MG, a corner with a roof. Up a few meters to small wire crack in corner, a couple of aids [will definitely go free] to the roof. Swing up on jams to follow the steadily widening crack.

The tall face just left of the arete.

Below the top of the vague diagonal dyke are inverted comma depressions at around 4m. From these move up slightly right to reach the left end of the horizontal.

Bulgy slab road side of bloc right of the tree trunks via the positive vertical rail.

Start up Champagne and Novocaine to the overlap then climb rightwards past Boys Will Be Boys.

Walk down 60m or so from the Free Standing area to the next compact orange wall. The first crack corner with guano. Up easily to the diagonal break. Exciting climbing across this to the arete.

Climb the crack between Major Mitchell’s Minor Chimney and Deshperado. Move R from the bollard then climb the buttress direct.

Easier and airier than it looks. Start up Old Mates for 5m to the base of the main corner. Move R onto orange nose and rock onto blank slab. Continue diagonally R over orange bulges (lots of pro, it’s above you), crossing Gene Vicious, to R end of big roof. Finish direct up clean cut grey dihedral. Wander 5m L to rap rings, or top out.

Rounded left arete.

West side chimney between Wine's World and large scoop of Tweble Cone, finish on top of large scoop.

Wires plus 1 BR. The right hand route.

Finishes line that Mistral starts up.

Awkward moves with exposure at the top. Starts 2mts left of Hot. Scramble up wide crack to ledge. Climbcrack on rt to an angled ledge, move rt to arete and finish up crack.

Big line 13m R of ET, originally described as a 'proud corner' it actually looks like a steep grotty gully...and what do you know, when you climb it that is just what it is.

Included in above description

On the left side of the main face (that faces camp) and left of ETGZ. Up to roof. Through the aforementioned roof, stepping left and up arete.

Eye catching crack line.

Start: About 1km L of the RH end of the cliff where there is a steep step between the cliff and a subsidiary buttress. Locate a pair of cracks up a steep wall [landmark lines], this climb takes the LH one. Start at the foot of the step which leads up to 'Monkey Business'.

1. 12m (10) Up to left end of ledge below cracks.

2. 40m (17) Up and R into impressive crack line, up this to ledge, then short steep chimney to top. Descent from this end of the cliff is difficult since the fire has killed all of the large trees. We went L about 80m and scrambled down to a small tree from where a 50m abseil reached the ground.

Up wall left of Unauthorised Mice to small ledge, crank through bulge and up. Fiddly to protect below bulge and on top wall. There is a good cam above bulge on the left that you can't see from under it.

The pretty finger seam leading to the end of Rainbow Crack.

Twin cracks 10m right of last minute dash.

Starts behind tree. 2 carrot bolts at top with a U bolt to lower on.

Good climbing on good rock with good gear.

Start: Starts about 100m down and right of 'Carmina Burana' at an attractive left leading corner crack, with a ledge just off the ground.

1. 25m (15) Up and left along the big corner. Belay at ledge.

2. 30m (17) Left on ledge then up corner to reach big orange corner. Left and up this to finish dramatically up steeply on huge jugs just right of corner crack. Double bolt rap station. 30m to ground.

Just R of FoY is a pinnacle. Head R past this and uphill about 20m to the foot of a slabby wall which is the front of another pinnacle. Take the short dirty RH seam [crux] to a bushy ledge. Follow cracks and flakes near the RH arête of the pinnacle to belay just below the summit spire. Abb carefully into gully from large rounded bollard.

South side of the hill down towards the Tramway Boulders.

SDS right leaning arete.

NE aspect via good sidepulls.

The L hand two lines on the next chunky section of cliff, 40m R of FS. Can be done as one pitch.

1. 15m 17 Up to the overhang, over it and quickly up to the belay.

2. 10m Easily up the short wall to the top.

Up RftM then juggy traverse R around arete.

Bridge up next corner right of 'Carthaginian' then left to wide crack above.

Significant as the first climb to tackle the overhangs on this wall but a bizarre approach from high in a tree and a wandering finish mean that it doesn't warrant repeating. The best part of the climb is now done as the second pitch of 'john Barleycorn'.

Start: Start at the tree by 'Martin Eden'.

1. 50m (14) Climb the tree and branch until able to step onto the rock. Right to pedestal then up wall slightly left the veer right to detached flake. From right end of ledge up steep wall for 7 metres then left to ledge. Up to a small ledge.

2. 25m (17) Up to roof, hand travers right to nose. Crack to ledge. This is same as pitch 2 of 'John Barleycorn'.

3. 20m (15) A little right to climb overhang at weakness above BR. Now up a little and traverse a long way right to ledge and tree.

4. 25m (-) Climb corner behind and exit right. From top of flake climb steep little wall then up more easily

Tackles the middle of the main orange wall with good, sustained climbing. Needs cleaning. Climb the lichenous groove with chicken heads near the middle of the wall, and 2m right of Lost in the Bush. This leads to the foot of an orange ramp which sweeps up left past a small tree to finish steeply straight up.

Wall right of "Slap & Tickle". Steeply up and right, then up on good holds.

A boulder problem that might ease when the R-hand crack is dry.

Start: Start beneath the twin cracks of Watchtower Castle's first pitch.

Around right of the cave is an overhanging corner. Good jamming.

Sit start to Gelato!

The easier one. 2 BRs plus wires.

Starts 10m right of the cave. Originally described as a 40m two pitch route.

Climb up towards the large flake, carefully move right on hollow rock to gain the line which ends up on top of the flake. Move left then finish up the easy corner above.

Immediately L of Im Sick of Thinking Up Names the cliff is very broken and vegetated. However, further along there are some more compact and cleaner buttresses. The cliff line ends about 250m L of ISTUN at a square cut buttress of pale rock. Probably best approached from the road directly below.

Good sustained climbing up the thin cracks and seams towards the LH edge of this buttress. 'Small' cams and wires. Cairned. Abseil down gully to L.

The top wide crack opposite 'Balcony slab'[12852439] , unusual climbing. Can be done in two pitches, belay where the crack round the arête. Rap off horn at the top.