Routes in Victoria for selected grade

Starts on far right of cave and finishes as for NLF. Nice pumper!

Link up minimal tech into loose cannon.

Classic pumper! Starts in corner at left hand edge of the cliff. Fun juggy start leads to a rest. Trend right following a grey streak with hidden beautiful dyke edges. A punchy end guards the anchor.

Great line through the middle of the cliff, following a long thin black streak. Bring a couple of long draws to help with potential rope drag.

Right most route, left of where the cliff breaks down. Start up easy ramp and directly into very continuous, thin techy face climbing. After the 5th bolt head left and then up to a small overlap and steep head wall climbing between the twin cracks, which finally relents to a little slab and then steep flake.

Stunning route up the middle of the wall; one of the best crack-vertical-slab combinations around. Hard technical crux after first bolt and a second (hard to protect) crux up high after the last bolt.

It has been queried if this climb is actually possible; this is from Mike Law: "I got pulled /tensioned/short-roped off last moves when belayer collapsed with heatstroke, finished right instead I think. Crux is the steep wall above the crack - pretty Foxy 25+"

It goes free at 26, climbing straight up after last bolt. 4 BR and run-out trad.

Start: The arête 2m right of 'Blood Sport' requires creativity and determination.

Sit Start on left arete of boulder. Head out arete and up tall face. Little airy topping out.

The very steep ribline in the middle of the cave, 2m right of Simply Red start, finishing slightly higher than that route at a higher RH and lower LH set of holds. Highest problem in here.

Climb the prominent arete on the left side of the descent gully 30m right of 'Lolly Gobble'. 8 FH's to double ring lower off.

Start: About 30m right of 'Lolly Gobble'

Start 3m right of No Habla Espanol. Takes the unlikely arête feature.

Start directly below the 2nd bolt of Spanish Sahara from the ground. Either boulder it out to 2nd bolt or stick clip.

On the east face in the chasm proper. Starts from large suspended chock-stone bridge. Three FH's up rounded rib leads to jug. Traverse right along break past large wire placement and FH then head straight up (FH) to chain. Route was originally climbed direct from the last FH instead of traversing off to the right on 'cheat' jugs.

A continuous pitch up the centre of the face, gradually steepening as it goes. Desperate friction moves (mossy) 5m left of 'Redback' lead past a FH to a slim groove. Up left past 2no of FH to gain a thin crack which leads to the prominent diagonal. Continue more easily up the left leading diagonal crack to a thin vertical crack. When the crack ends, lurch left to gain another overhanging crack, which leads to the top & lower off anchor. First pitch is clean as a whistle.

A fine face pitch leads to wild swings through the top overhang. 1) 25m (24) Climb tenuously past a FH 10m L of the R arete and continue R-ward past 2no of FH. Up and R to good slots and continue diagonally R to gain short groove and the ledge on SW arete. Possible to head point / top rope from dang's anchor. 2) 30m (25) Up to gain the prominent undercut 'jug' on the arete (2 RB's). Heave over the roof and up to a rest. Now straight up arete, it gets easier to the top. Lower off anchor in small cave.

Outrageous climbing. Starts as Redbacks pitch 2. After second RB veer left to obvious rest ledge on arête. Follow line of RB's left up the stunning rock on hidden pockets and edges. Rest in corner then power up steep finale. Recommend backclimb to clean. Extending first 3 draws is recommended. We used the following (1st RB 60cm, 2nd RB = 90cm, 3rd FH = 120cm)

Starts as Redbacks pitch 2. After second RB veer left to obvious rest ledge on arête. Follow line of FH's veering left up the spectacular orange face. Rope drag is an issue: a long draw (60cm) on the first and third bolts are recommended. Beware when lowering the climber as rope will most likely not reach the ground.

Four FHs up thin orange face 3m right of 'Wave of Mutilation'. Finish is an awkward and tough mantle into the scoop with potential for hitting the back wall.

The full "ledge" traverse finishing at the ledge between pitches of PNtT. Trickier than it looks but interesting climbing on great rock. Either finish up that route or bring second across and rap off single (massive) U bolt. Take mid sized cams to belay 0.5 to 2 inch. Or finish up PNtT

A classic face climb. Start as for Misty Variant. From the first RB head straight up wall past a 2nd RB, some good natural gear (small to medium wires) and a 3rd RB which protects the crux. A powerful, run out crux sequence leads to jugs and good gear.

Start: Start at the left end of the main wall

1. 12m (24) Boulder past bolt, then left into scoop and rest. Exit right and up and belay on ledge.

2. 38m (25) Crux past bolt then sustained past fixed RP to horizontal break with big jugs. Diagonally right for 2 metres to finish up steep but easier crack.

The left arete of the huge block leaning against the cliff about 50 metres left of "Don't Count Your X Before They Hatch"

1. 25m (26) Past pin and desperately past bolt then slightly easier to belay. Scramble to top of block.

2. 30m (26) From the apex of the block, climb up into scoop, left to runners (#1 cam, big nut in a hole). Left and up flake, lurch right past bolt onto flakes, right and on to top.

Sit start for eye candy.

The south-west arete of the block gives an unusual and unlikely climb. Lassoo spike at 7m and free climb from there!

1. 20m (23) Strenuously up the left-leading diagonal.

2. 20m (25) Boulder off the belay and grunt up the overhanging layback corner. At left (?) got tenuously left onto wall and to top.

10m left of 'Tree Hugger' is another steep orange wall. On the left edge is a steep seam crack with 2 x FH. Up.

Starts left of Talon. Mini route on simply great stone.

The left line in the cave. Cruxy flake on the lower wall, then juggy roof to finish. 5 RBs. Grade is skeptical as Neil thought it was much harder than 'Poison Bait'.

Up to Poison Bait's third bolt, then traverse left on slopers to finish up 'Talon'.

Bouldery start with five metre cieling. A sport classic!

Unfortunate (and unforunately aptly) named. Good moves from sit start flake up left through edges to top out.

Starts 4 metres left of Oh Hum at overhung black off-width. Layback up wide crack which quickly turns into hand-crack. Five metres from the ground step left from crack onto gorgeous orange bulgy wall. Long moves on jugs lead to FH. Over bulge to second FH. Tenuous layaway moves up orange wall above (optional hard-to-place wire) lead to easier ground. Head slightly left up wall above to finish at DRB lower-off. Take a single set of trad gear to fist-crack size.

One move wonder and a soft touch.

Not a one move wonder, and not a soft touch.

Fight your way through a selection of sharpish pillows to a blissful ramble.

A bit more pump than the other two

Linkup of a more petite fashion.

No prizes for guessing which routes...

Really steep, but a few sneaky rests take the sting out a bit (if you find them).

Make sure your belayer is paying attention when you are clipping. It's not a serious route or a death route, but it could be messy.

Next line right of GT. Crux at the lip, so watch your back (as for previous route).

Fun roof problem. The attractive flake lust left of the start of Welcome To Barbados. Finish inside deep flake and abseil from horn.

Looks like a fun bit of steep thugging.

Start: This is the route on its own in the cave you get to before the main area.

Pumpy fun for the kids who aren't up to Breathing Gasoline. A good find as this cave is under-endowed in the 25-27 bracket.

Start as for Breathing Gasoline.

Up Breathing Gasoline for 5 bolts then traverse R to the anchors of Tunnel to Caracas. To ensure all possible permutations and combinations are covered, no doubt the 'megaclassic' extension into Tunnel Vision will follow soon.

Takes SFON past 3 bolts. Then direct up trad weakness.

Another great looking roof. The usual warning applies: there's only a single bolt between you and the ground at times.

Start a few metres L of Labyrinths.

Out the roof trending R, crossing Labyrinths a few metres before the lip.

The prime line through this gorgeous red-roofed cave. Possibly even 3 stars. The usual warning applies: there's only a single bolt between you and the ground at times.

Start in the base of the cave.

Straight out the red roof then hard moves to the left before the lip.

Technical seam 3 metres right of "Walking Under Strictest Secrecy" to easy finish.

Unique arête on block. Located approx 30m west of the tower. Shade in morning.

Start at Popeyed. To eliminate a potential 20m groundfall for leader & belayer if the first bolt backclips, place a medium cam below it. Stickclip first bolt then make a very cool & unlikely rightwards traverse across face. Follow line of steel up lovely dark orange rock to anchor.

Immaculate rock and a very tough crux if you're short. Central line about 10m right of Popeyed. Over rooflet (BR) and up juggy wall (BR) to horizontal break and rooflet. Up and left past BR and two FHs to mantle onto ledge. Run it out up white marble pockets past BR to belay anchor in cave.

Squeezed in but still top stuff! An awesome faint arête and corner system on super quality rock. An alternate second pitch of 'Inspector Gadget'. Belay in cave as for the end of Inspector Gadget's first pitch. Clip first BR on IG then launch directly up to FH. Battle upwards on slopers, dishes and the occasional ledge past a further two FH's. Finish up small corner (to finish at double RB belay/lower-off.

The famous crazy jump. Prominent hanging arete on right side of 'The Tower' with immaculate rock. This was the first of the 'new' routes to get attention. Stickclip third bolt and leap across to thread hold from the pinnacle opposite. It's about 3m horizontal! The climbing gets easier the higher you get. Double bolt lower off.

Left leaning overhung crackline about 5m right of 'Super Mario Bros'. Neil took a groundfall attempting the first ascent ground up. Two very hard cruxes on polished perfect rock. A trad classic for those with the skills. Chain lower off.

Starts as per RRH then move right across pocketed face.

Bouldery little number.

Brilliant line of edges. Hidden away under a boulder leaning against the wall about 300m east of possume rocks cave.

Top up through the choss or drop from the jug for a more pleasant outing.

Crack then orange bulging face. 2 FHs and lower- off.

Shares start with Ogre Power. Technical climbing up and right towards rest and final headwall with overhanging crack. DRB lower-off. Soft as Kittens.

Sit start.

The line up the face just left of the grey corner of "At Tienappels"

Withering face climbing. A serious proposition.

Start 2 metres left of 'Raving Loonies'.

1. 40m (25) Up a short hollow flake. Step right and go up on good holds until a difficult move up and left gains a flake/crack line (cam in 'Raving Loonies' protects this). Climb the crack and go left along a horizontal break. Mantle up to another break, then go left and up to a poor spike. Go straight up to easier ground and a good thread. Traverse left for 8 metres to a good ledge on the left edge of the flake.

2. 20m (19) 'Layback' the curving flake to reach broken ledges. Go up 3 metres to thread belay with insitu worthless tat.

3. 20m (19) Move left on the ledge and then awkwardly over the first bulge to easier-angled ground. Wander up to a stancebelow a leftwards-curving line which forms the righthand boundary of an overhung recess in the face.

4. 30m (26) Climb the line and go up to a good horizontal break. Move left and up steeply on chicken heads to a good flake and runners. Fingery, bold climbing leads to the top.

Two pitches of outragous steep and interesting climbing, with a very thin and reachy crux pitch. One of the last major walls in the 'Grampians' to be climbed? Originally equipped by Jono Schmidt and Neil mid 2007, it took five months before Neil could convince anyone else to go in to try it! This route could be led in one giant pitch, but you would need more than 25 quickdraws and a double sized rack. The climb stays mostly dry even in torrential rain - as tested on the first ascent!

Start: Starts on the far left of the Crimson Tower, on sloping rock platforms. Bring a large cam to belay from.

1. 30m (25) Step right (FH) and across crimpy slab and into shallow corner. Up this on small wires/cams to rooflet and juggy grey wall. Up reachy flake to big heuco, then crux crimpy face above to belay in large horizontal slot. For the hanging belay anchors use RB above, and medium cams to the left. Six bolts in total on this pitch.

2. 30m (24) Stunning location. Out roof and up exposed headwall past 4 ringbolts to base of left facing corner. Up this on trad then step right, to final difficult grey wall. Rap off with DOUBLE 60m ropes. 50m ropes will NOT reach the ground.

Slick and sustained Arapiles style line.

The central line of the middle buttress.

Leap for jug from rock cairn (FH), then up short face to fingercrack. Up this for 6m to slight stance. Swing right across awkward bulging face (FH) to below final seam. Up this which eases to jugs and lower-off anchor. Bring a full rack and some slings to extend runners in the traverse,

Starts 6m left of Battling the Bulge. Climb the prominent right leading corner to FH. A strenuous right rising traverse past a 2nd FH brings a jug to hand and a cramped rest. Move left and climb tricky crack to rap rings.

Start 5m R of 'Elle McFerret' at termite nest. Bouldery start past fixed wire to crack. Crack to finish. Note: Start can be aided to give sustained crack climbing at about 24.

Big time cave climbing up right side of the orange wave.

Scramble in from the left side onto belay ledge 15m from the ground. Belay off single FH.

Head up and right easily for 8m to small ledge and UB. Take a breath and start climbing up and out past eight bolts in incredible positions to finish in small cave. Hard moves are at third and sixth bolts. Good foot jams, knee bars and leg slots can be found for recovery all the way up. Use a 60m rope for lower-off and tie a knot in the end!

Since Michael O’Reilly snapped the crux hold off, this route is one or two grades harder.

Start 4m left of Incarceration at the yellow streak. Climb the easy flake and clip the bolt. Rock up with difficulty, using the small gaston, and climb up to the fingerlocks and technical layback. Go into the nice jams and up to the jugs. Finish easily up the wide trench to the DBB.

Start: 4m left of 'Rust Never Sleeps'. Climb the flake, step right and then motor up the grey streak leftwards through the bulges.

Climbs the weakness through the roof and prow at the highest part of the wall, above and to the right of 'Against The Tide'.

Start: 'Access' the start by climbing 'Against The Tide' (16) and

moving right along the sloping ledge/chimney to belay at the

lowest point.

The righthand roof crack. Established onsight.

A pretty good route up the middle of the wall, Bouldery start then traverse right and up to lower off