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Contributors
Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:
Martin Busch Julian Parsert Terenc HowC Alma Martina Demmel Adam Ondra Campbell Gome Kai Andrea Ebner
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Table of contents
- 1.
Schleierwasserfall / Schleier Wasserfall
207 in Crag
- 1.1. Skywalk / A- far left 58 in Sector
- 1.2. Graue Wand 56 in Sector
- 1.3. Hauptsektor 82 in Sector
- 1.4. D - rechter Sektor 11 in Sector
- 2. Index by grade
1. Schleierwasserfall 207 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 47.545157, 12.357829
summary
A famous crag mostly due to the work of Alex Huber and many other strong climbers.
description
Many test pieces and an amazing setting with a 60m waterfall in the middle of the crag.
approach
Make your way to Going and turn at the "Stanglwirt" in direction of Prama and Aschau. Pass Aschau and take a left, you will reach the parking. Follow the forest road and (shortcut) trails until you reach the cliff.
1.1. Skywalk 58 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 47.545193, 12.355065
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Spannungsbogen | FR:7b | 25m | |||||
2 | ★★ Schuppenfrei | FR:6a | 15m | |||||
3 | ★★ Sledgehammer | FR:6c | 25m | |||||
4 | ★★ G´rupft und G`raschplt | FR:6c+ | 25m | |||||
5 | Dornröschen | FR:7a | 15m | |||||
6 | ★★ Wintermärchen | FR:5c | 12m | |||||
7 | ★★ Fragezeichen | {FR} 6a+ | 20m | |||||
8 | ★★★ Rainy Sunday | FR:6c+ | 18m | |||||
9 | ★★ Helge und Reinhold | FR:7b | 18m | |||||
10 | Umleitung | FR:7c | 15m | |||||
11 | Abkürzung | FR:8a+ | 15m | |||||
12 | ★★ 2nd Birthday | FR:7a+ | 22m | |||||
13 | Aeroflot | FR:8a | 15m | |||||
14 | Atemlos | FR:7c | 35m | |||||
15 | ★★★ Schlangenbiss | FR:7b+ | 55m, 2 | |||||
16 | ★ Minimundus | {FR} 6b | 10m, 4 | |||||
17 | ★ Bingo Bongo 2.0 | {FR} 6c+ | 10m, 4 | |||||
18 | Projekt | 40m | ||||||
19 | Reiwaloata | FR:7a | 18m | |||||
20 | ★★ Henaloata | FR:8a+ | 50m, 2 | |||||
21 |
★★ Im Land des senkrechten Lächelns
Gleicher Zustieg wie 'Henaloata', ab dem 1.Stand die rechte Variante. | FR:7c+ | 40m, 2 | |||||
22 | Think Fink | FR:7a+ | 25m | |||||
23 | R.C.L.S. | FR:7c | 25m | |||||
24 | Knusper Zapfen | {FR} 7c | 20m | |||||
25 | Hoanata Galtling | FR:8b+ | 20m | |||||
26 | Seitensprung | FR:8b | 20m | |||||
27 | Hadadachsl | FR:6a | 20m | |||||
28 | Reeperbahn | FR:7c+ | 30m | |||||
29 | Swingerclub | FR:7c | 25m | |||||
30 | ★★★ Schwing dei Ding | {FR} 7b+ | 30m | |||||
31 | The Titty Twister | FR:8a | 30m | |||||
32 | ★★ Lena´s Line | FR:6b | 10m | |||||
33 | ★★★ Make my Day | FR:7a | 20m | |||||
34 |
Spiegelstadt
Verlängerung 'Make my Day' | FR:7b+ | 45m | |||||
35 | ★★ Warten auf Nina | {FR} 6c+ | 20m | |||||
36 | ★★ Wer zuletzt lacht | {FR} 6b+ | 20m | |||||
37 | Morgenland | FR:7b+ | 55m | |||||
38 | Endeavor | FR:8a | 45m | |||||
39 | Moonwalk | {FR} 7b+ | 25m | |||||
40 | Vollmond | FR:7c+ | 40m | |||||
41 | ★★★ Skywalk | {FR} 7b | 25m | |||||
42 | Skydiver | FR:8a | 45m | |||||
43 | Don't Stop under the Top | FR:8a | 30m | |||||
44 | ★★ Teamwork | {FR} 6c+ | 15m | |||||
45 | Boomerang | FR:7b | 15m | |||||
46 | Be Hot Stay Cool | FR:7c | 25m | |||||
47 | House of Pain | FR:7c | 15m | |||||
48 | ★★ Merci Cheri | {FR} 7b+ | 15m | |||||
49 | ★★ Ein Fall für Stille | FR:6c+ | 15m | |||||
50 | ★★ Tom Julie | FR:6c | 15m | |||||
51 | Long Island Icetea | FR:8b | 15m | |||||
52 | Hydra | FR:8a | 35m | |||||
53 | ★★ Indiana Jones | FR:7c+ | 37m | |||||
54 | Überflieger | FR:8a+ | 37m | |||||
55 | ★★★ Prima Ballerina | FR:7b+ | 37m | |||||
56 | ★★★ Aufziehvogel | FR:7a+ | 35m, 11 | |||||
57 | ★★ Tsuga | FR:6c+ | 40m, 14 | |||||
58 | X-mas | FR:6b+ | 30m |
1.2. Graue Wand 56 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 47.545094, 12.360216
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Feuchtgebiete | FR:7b+ | 10m | |||
2 | Oawaschlbär | FR:7a | 10m | |||
3 | Project | |||||
4 | Belay Bunny | FR:7a | 10m | |||
5 | Bumms Bomber | FR:8a+ | 10m | |||
6 | Schlampenschlepper | FR:7c | 10m | |||
7 | ★★★ Piranha | FR:6c | 10m | |||
8 | Mickey Mouse | FR:6b+ | 10m | |||
9 | Dingsda | FR:7a | 12m | |||
10 | Netlinksda | FR:7b | 13m | |||
11 | Tittentango | FR:7c+ | 16m | |||
12 | Neumond | FR:8b | 13m | |||
13 | Project2 | |||||
14 | Nid hi gaggen | FR:7c - 8a | 15m | |||
15 | Direkteinstieg zu Pax | FR:8b+ | 15m | |||
16 | Pax Inhabitaniubs | FR:7c+ | 15m | |||
17 | Wind of changes | FR:7c+/8a | 15m | |||
18 | A tergo | FR:8b | 15m | |||
19 | Happy Buzei | FR:8a | 20m | |||
20 | Projekt | |||||
21 | Zunderbleame | FR:8a | 10m | |||
22 | ★★ As Stoamandl | FR:7a | 10m | |||
23 | Stoaschleida | FR:7b | 15m | |||
24 | Kreuzigung | FR:8b+ | 10m | |||
25 | ★★★ Das Urteil | FR:8b | 10m | |||
26 | Helium | FR:8b+ | 20m | |||
27 | Bonita | FR:8b | 18m | |||
28 | Gwag Superstar | FR:8a | 18m | |||
29 | ★★★ Chiquita | FR:8a+ | 18m | |||
30 |
★★★ Chiquita Right Exit
Chiquita and then to the right into the dihedral after the 6th quick draw and finish Sternenpolierer. | {FR} 8a | ||||
31 | ★★★ Sternenpolierer | FR:6c | 18m | |||
32 | Captain Hook | FR:8c | 20m | |||
33 | ★★★ B'eng | FR:8a | 22m | |||
34 | ★★★ Aqualung | FR:7c | 25m | |||
35 | ★★ Batman | FR:7c | 25m | |||
36 | ★★★ Fido Dido | FR:7c | 25m | |||
37 | ★★★ Number One direkt | FR:7b | 28m | |||
38 | ★★★ Number One rechts | FR:7b | 25m | |||
39 | Project3 | |||||
40 | ★★★ Travelling hearts | FR:8a | 25m | |||
41 | ★★★ Schwanzbär | FR:8b+/c | 25m | |||
42 | ★★★ Tanzbär | FR:8a | 25m | |||
43 | Patient line | FR:7c+ | 28m | |||
44 | ★★ Die letzte Sau | FR:8a | 28m | |||
45 | Sika Sau | FR:7c+ | 30m | |||
46 | Sikamat | FR:8a+ | 30m | |||
47 | Wien ist anders | FR:8a+ | 25m | |||
48 | Tokamak | FR:8b | 25m | |||
49 | ★★★ Schrei aus Stein | FR:8a+ | 32m | |||
50 |
★★★ Lichtjahre
Alex Megos wertet die Route auf: https://kletterblock.de/de_DE/2020/09/alexander-megos-klettert-lichtjahre-8c-am-schleier-wasserfall/ FA: Markus Bendler | FR:8c+ | 25m | |||
51 | ★★★ Mercy Street | FR:8c | 25m | |||
52 | ★★★ Resistance | FR:8c/c+ | 30m | |||
53 | Crossover | FR:8c | 28m | |||
54 | Silverliner | FR:8c+ | 30m | |||
55 | Buffalo Bill | FR:8b | 25m | |||
56 | ★★★ Buffalo Soldier | FR:7c+ | 20m |
1.3. Hauptsektor 82 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 47.545258, 12.361894
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Links | ||||||||
2 | ★★★ Herbstzeitlose | 6c+ | 20m | |||||
3 | Moritz | 7b | 30m | |||||
4 | Sigi's Bohrkarriere | 7b+ | 30m | |||||
5 | Rust never sleeps | 7c | 57m, 2 | |||||
6 | Killerkarpfen | 8c | 25m | |||||
7 | Hammerhai | 8c | 22m | |||||
8 | Dolphins | 8c | 22m | |||||
9 | Barracuda | 8c | 25m | |||||
10 | Blauwal | 8a+ | 25m | |||||
11 | ★★ Orca | 8c+ | 25m | |||||
12 |
★★ Fugu
Set: Alexander Huber, 1998 FFA: Adam Ondra, 2008 | 9a | 25m | |||||
13 | Dizzkneeland | 8a+ | 25m | |||||
14 | Kugelfisch | 7c+ | 22m | |||||
15 | ★★ El Gringo | 7a | 20m | |||||
16 | ★★ La Reina de las Putas | 7c | 20m | |||||
17 | Hurenkönig | 8a | 27m | |||||
18 | ★★★ Calimero | 7b+ | 30m | |||||
19 | Via Sophia | 6b+ | 18m | |||||
20 | Schlutzkrapfen | 6b+ | 18m | |||||
21 | ★ Jo Jo Joke | 5b | 18m | |||||
22 | ★★ Art Rock | 6b+ | 18m | |||||
23 | ★★ Chocolat | 6a+ | 18m | |||||
24 | Extra Dry | 7b | 25m | |||||
25 | ★★★ Helpless | 8a | ||||||
26 | Verschneidung | 8b | 12m | |||||
27 | ★ Vorbeibanklhupfa | 6b | 18m | |||||
28 | ★ Al Capone | 6b+ | 18m | |||||
29 | ★★★ Flower Power | 7a | 18m | |||||
30 | ★ Permanent Vacation | 7a+ | 18m | |||||
31 | ★ Quälgeist | 6a+ | 15m | |||||
32 | ★★★ Das Erbe der Väter | 8c+ | 30m | |||||
33 | Vorspiel | 8b | 25m | |||||
34 | ★★★ Heinzelmännchen | 8b | 20m | |||||
35 | ★★★ Wellenreiter | 8a+/b | 25m | |||||
rechts | ||||||||
37 |
★★ Damenchaos
Chaos until the last (obvious) rest before the last headwall. | 8a+ | ||||||
38 | Chaos | 8b | 40m | |||||
39 | Projekt 1 | |||||||
40 | ★★★ Wassermusik | 8b+ | 40m | |||||
41 | Siempre Secco | 8b | 40m | |||||
42 | ★★★ Karo Bua | 7b+ | 18m | |||||
43 | ★★★ Hitchhiker | 7b | 18m | |||||
44 | ★★★ Kinderüberraschung | 7b+ | 18m | |||||
45 | ★★ Überraschung | 7b | 20m | |||||
46 | ★★ Nirwana | 8a | 20m | |||||
47 | Fight club | 8c | 18m | |||||
48 |
Warme Dusche
A linkup - You climb 'Eiszeit' below the final crux and then move to the right into 'Black Pearl'. FA: Adam Ondra, 15 Jul 2020 | 8c/c+ | 45m | |||||
49 | Eiszeit | 8c+/9a | 25m | |||||
50 | Rock Bitch | 8a | 20m | |||||
51 | ★★ World of Wonders | 8a | 18m | |||||
52 | Das weiße Wunder | 8a+ | 20m | |||||
53 | ★★★ White winds | 8a+ | 20m | |||||
54 | Black Pearl | 8b+ | 30m | |||||
55 | Wuchtl | 8b | 25m | |||||
56 |
★★★ Weiße Rose
First repeat by Adam Ondra (13/09/2008). FFA: Alexander Huber, 1994 | 9a | 25m | |||||
57 | ★★ La pulce d'aqua | 8a+/b | 20m | |||||
58 | Mongo | 9a | 20m | |||||
59 | ★★ Cool your foot man | 8a+/b | 20m | |||||
60 | ★★★ Have fun on top | 8a | 18m | |||||
61 | Top Ten | 8b | 20m | |||||
62 | ★★★ Ziag o | 7c | 18m | |||||
63 |
★★★ Ziag oder Fliag
Start Ziag o, at the 3rd quickdraw, at the lip of the steep part, traverse left into "Cool your foot, man" and climb to the top of "Cool your foot, man". | 7c+ | ||||||
64 | ★★★ Black Power | 9a | 25m | |||||
65 |
Open Air
First repeat by Adam Ondra (17/11/2008). FFA: Alexander Huber, 1996 | 9a+ | 25m | |||||
66 | Schlechte Verbindung | 8b | 20m | |||||
67 | ★★ Gulag | 7a+ | 20m | |||||
68 | ★★★ Tequilla Sunrise | 7c | 20m | |||||
69 | ★★★ Black Jack | 7b | 20m | |||||
70 | Projekt 3 | |||||||
71 | ★★ Zwergerlaufstand | 7c | 15m | |||||
72 | ★★★ Herzerl | 7c+ | 15m | |||||
73 |
★★★ Slippery when wet
You can start this route from (Damen)gambit and the the traverse left instead of going straight through the slab (the grade is the same as you trade a technical (difficult) slab for a powerful traverse). FA: Stefan Netzer, 1995 | 7c+ | 25m | |||||
74 |
Slippery when wet (Right Exit Variant.)
Same as slippery when when but at the last quickdraw you go straight up through the face instead of left around the corner. So the only difference is the last quickdraw. Like slippery when wet you can start this route from (Damen)gambit and the the traverse left instead of going straight through the slab (the grade is the same as you trade a technical (difficult) slab for a powerful traverse). FA: Stefan Netzer, 1998 | 8a | ||||||
75 | ★★★ Damengambit | 8a+ | 20m | |||||
76 | ★★★ Gambit | 8c+ | 35m | |||||
77 | Projekt 2 | |||||||
78 | ★★★ Happy Biceps to you | 8b+ | 30m | |||||
79 | Little Biceps | 8b/b+ | 30m | |||||
80 | Reality Check | 8c+ | 30m | |||||
81 | ★★ Leben ohne Vordiplom | 6a | 10m | |||||
82 | ★★ Evergreen | 6b | 25m | |||||
83 | Botanik für Fortgeschrittene | 6c | 25m | |||||
84 | Botanik für Anfänger | 6b | 25m |
1.4. D - rechter Sektor 11 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 47.545157, 12.362982
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | When friends go married | FR:6c | 20m | |||
2 | ★ Henkel trocken | FR:7a | 30m | |||
3 | Henkelparty | FR:7a+ | 30m | |||
4 | Zwischendrin | FR:7a | 30m | |||
5 | GSGV (Gehd sho gemma Vollgas!) | FR:7b+ | 17m | |||
6 | Detto del Buoux | FR:7b | 20m | |||
7 | Kleiner Tod | FR:6c | 20m | |||
8 | Schneewind | FR:7a+ | 18m | |||
9 | Stillleben | FR:6c+ | 15m | |||
10 | Espinosa | FR:7c | 20m | |||
11 | Vuvuzela | FR:7a | 18m |