Routes in Ontario for selected grade

Delicate climbing at the bottom and top. Hero holds throught the middle. Fun Climb

Glorious finger crack to pumpy jugs

Route starts right of Matt's Route. Bring gear to 3". Start on the right crack and follow to a ledge, climb a slightly overhung ledge to follow a rail up to the bolt. The move from the bolt to the chimney is very difficult. place gear as you climb through the off-width to the anchors.

Alternate 2nd pitch for "Ground Zero".

1. From the belay ledge, climb the left line of bolts. (Gear not needed for this pitch.)

The finger crack. 1 bolt at the start of the crack

Classic overhanging hand/fist crack

P1: 5.10b, 35m P2: 5.11a, 40m

2 bolts at the bottom then trad. Boulder problem start then easier to the top. Found 2m left of GOJO

Same start as Fancy My Chances. Climb up the dihedral and traverse left on the large suspended block to the horizontal splitter. After placing gear as far left as you can comfortably reach down the splitter, launch up to a couple rails on the lip, and work your way left and up to an incut crimp-dish. Mount the slab and follow the weakness to Abbey Ledge. Bolted anchors (2022). Gear to #5 cam placeable, double of #0.5 recommended.

Bottom section seeps in early season and after rainfall.

P1: 5.11, 40m P2: 5.8, 30m

Bad Mantle's predecessor. An old trad route that climbed the blank, slabby bulge between Bad Mantle's last bolt and the easy exit on Thread Belay.

Start on Deliverance. At the roof, traverse left on slopers and finish up the spider-route dihedral.

Dangerous to climb with stabilization bolts located in the middle of the route.

Between "Breakfast Cookie" and "Tipytoe" are a couple bolts, after the 2nd one the route heads up through a fairly substantial roof on gear.

Pitch 3 is yet not freed and cleaned: Closed project, please don’t climb yet.

Same start as 'Funky Fingers', ends on the belay ledge for 'The Mother'.

Rarely or never repeated.

Starts from the right of the belay ledge.

Climbs the arete at number 8B.

Not often repeated.

Start just left of number 7C.

Also goes as 5.5 A2.

A jagged overhanging crack with an offwidth start, just left of "Cream Puff". The bouldery moves leading to the 2nd gear placement can be a little balancy at best... Power through to the next bomber placement, and enjoy the bulge and slabby finish. Shares anchor with "Cream Puff".

Protection: 0.2 to #3 cams and small nuts.

This beautiful corner can be found between All Dressed and Tips Crack. Start up corner utilizing small crack and jugs to gain a large ledge at base of the corner. Continue up left facing corner with great movement utilizing the odd foot chips on the face and arete. (30 meters) Anchors on the face or pull the lip and rappel down General Anesthesia (Climbers left)

Double rack #0.3 to 0.75, #1, #2. Load up on extra 0.5

Start at 15m.

Starts about 7m right of the spring.

This climb is located about 10 meters right of the main Cat's Tail wall. Start beneath a corner system (a left-facing one below a right-facing one). Head up through the corners to a stance beneath a break in the small roof (by a large left-facing flake). Plug in some bomber gear and head for the anchors. Note: Gear is sparse and tricky for the first 8 meters or so.

Just to the right of Flaked Out.

A lone route past/behind this gully

An undercling broke off near crux, Grade may be 11c/d now.

Probably the best for the grade at Baldy. steep moves until you are past the 4th bolt.

Greek Garden wall.

Route to the right of the corner and Snap Hook

First line of bolts on this side of the cliff face. Crux is between 2nd and 3rd bolt. Rappel rings inaccessible from top of cliff

Unknown sport route right of She Got Thrilled. Climbs slightly left of the bolt line to get the proposed grade (temp, 5.10d, 5.11a?).

Please update if you know the details.

This route has a bit of everything, with an outstanding view!

Stick clip a high first bolt and work through a techy slab boulder before you mantle onto the ledge. Climb through another crux to progressively easier climbing until you reach the no hands rest. Find the your way through the bulges to a pumpy crux where the anchor is in your face but you can’t clip it.

The ledges around the no hands rest are used by the falcons to clean their kills before feeding them to their young. In years where falcons are using the nest don’t be surprised if you’re climbing through the remains of their kills in fall.

From the "Ground Zero Ledge" (easiest access on the right side but still a bit of a sketchy scramble). Left line of bolts. Now fully bolted.

Cruxy boulder problem to start followed by some balancey slab climbing

Left-most line of bolts.

Left of Ladyslipper.

This climb embodies the character of the cliff. It rains lichen, moss, and the occasional rock. A little dampness is always lurking out of sight, but not out of reach. The climbing? Surprisingly fun!

Engaging from start to finish with some surprising moves - one of the best DG 5.11s.

Climb to the right of the tree

the left most route over the water

Climb the fun crack up to a great rest. Pull the roof. No cheating onto Ten-D-Nitus!