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Claghorn Guide

A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.

This guide was generated anonymously. Login to show your logged ascents against each route.

Warning

Rock climbing is extremely dangerous and can result in serious injury or death. Users acting on any information directly or indirectly available from this site do so at their own risk.

This guide is compiled from a community of users and is presented without verification that the information is accurate or complete and is subject to system errors. By using this guide you acknowledge that the material described in this document is extremely dangerous, and that the content may be misleading or wrong. In particular there may be misdescriptions of routes, incorrectly drawn topo lines, incorrect difficulty ratings or incorrect or missing protection ratings. This includes both errors from the content and system errors.

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

Brent Clark michaelhyer Jordan Gray Alex Cumber

The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

Table of contents

1. Claghorn 57 routes in Crag

Summary:
J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Seasonality

Trad climbing, Sport climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 48.914094, -88.558626

description

A long wall of good rock, with good height. Lots of development potential.

access issues

Many of the crags on on private land or private land needs to be crossed to access the crag. Please respect the area, it is a privilege to be allowed to climb at these crags.

Leave no trace, respect other parties, and be mindful if you have music or dogs at the crag.

inherited from Thunder Bay

1.1. Northern Limit Wall 2 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Top roping

Lat / Long: 48.925945, -88.562096

description

Northernmost section, north of the boulders at the left end of the Outward Bound area.

Routes listed right-to-left.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Pushing the Limit 5.10 Top rope 28m
2 Horny Finger 5.9 Top rope 20m

1.2. Outward Bound Area 14 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Mostly Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 48.922240, -88.561629

description

Routes listed right-to-left as they would be encountered when hiking in from the parking area.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Flakey 5.8 Trad
2 Jacob's Ladder 5.4 Trad
3 Cracks of Dawn 5.4 Trad
4 Gendarme 5.7 Trad
5 Solstice 5.5 Trad
6 Shakleton 5.7 Trad
7 Faith 5.8 Trad
8 Fairdinkem 5.5 Trad
9 Bridge of Sighs 5.9 Trad
10 La Connection Francaise 5.7 Trad
11 Ten 5.8 Trad
12 Raccoon 5.8 Trad
13 Fatman 5.6 Trad
14 Smash That Cherry Twist

Climb the prominent arete as seen from start of boulder field trail to Outward Bound area. Stay to right of arete for the most part. Climb to face of and top of pillar finishing up and over short head wall.

Set: Peter Drzymala

FFA: Peter Drzymala

FA: Peter Drzymala, 21 Jul 2015

5.10a Sport 26m, 10

1.3. Claghorn Long Wall 41 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Trad climbing, Sport climbing and Aid climbing

Lat / Long: 48.909171, -88.557415

description

This is the km+ long wall that is obvious off to the east at km 7 along Black Sturgeon Road.

Routes are listed left-to-right (different from the other sections).

A collection of some of the best single pitch climbing in the region. Mostly hard sort route with a wide variety of trad and mixed lines. Still plenty of room for future development.

approach

Long Wall Right/Left: Park on the side of the road at the trail head marked by flagging tape. Head towards the cliff on the well marked trail. In early spring bring some rubber boots.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 TVs and Torsos 5.10 Trad 40m
2 What's In Your Head A3 Aid 30m
3 Shuffleupagus 5.8 Trad 20m
4 Deception 5.9 Trad 30m
5 Limited Time Offer 5.9 A1 Aid
6 Thanksgiving Route AidProject
7 CNN

Short for Climb Not Named. One of the best splitter hand cracks around.

5.10a Trad 30m
8 Getting Stung

First pitch has some loose rock but second pitch is $

5.8 Trad 2
9 Wasserboxer 5.9 A1 Aid 30m
10 Maltese Sandwhiches

First bolted line climbers left at the gully

5.10b/c Sport
11 The Beginning 5.12a Sport
12 Deez Nuts 5.10c Mixed trad 2
13 Gift of the trees 5.12d Sport
14 The Negotiator 5.11a Sport
15 Finlandia

Set: Nick Rochacewich

5.13a Sport
16 A perfect uneven pair 5.10b Mixed trad 5
17 Ninja Assassin 5.12d Sport
18 Hollow like a bamboo

Missing bolt R/X

5.12b Sport
19 The Drifter 5.12a Sport
20 Grade School

Climb first 4 bolts of The Drifter and break right to crack

5.9 Mixed trad 4
21 The Claghorn 5.11c Sport
22 The Dirty Kowala 5.11d Sport
23 The Alberta Ride

Set: Nick Rochacewich

5.10a Sport
24 Muscular Teenage boys take of their wetsuit and reveal the full package 5.11d Mixed trad 6
25 Fraggle Rock

Hand to offwidth crack

5.9 Trad
26 Farewell to Arms

Set: Nick Rochacewich

5.13a Sport 11
27 Quiet Earth

Mixedl gear to 0.75

5.12d Mixed trad 6
28 Craft of the Dessert Warrior 5.9 Trad
29 Jack Layton Memorial Route

Slap your way up the free standing pillar. If you're under 5'10 the crux in harder.

Set: Nick Rochacewich

5.12d Sport
30 Cry of the Snow Lion

Unsure where start is or how many bolts

5.12a Mixed trad 2
31 All Dressed 5.10a Trad 28m
32 Titanium Tiger

Begin up hand crack pulling the small roof, and then continue up hand crack to where it blanks out. Traverse right on good footholds to reach the next crack system. Continue up the tight hand crack to a stance then pull through good holds with small gear to bring you to the top. Rappel back down from the bolted anchors

0.3-0.5, x3-4 0.75, x2 #1-#3, #4 C4, 6-8 alpine draws

FA: Brent Clark, 3 Aug 2019

5.10a Trad 28m
33 General Anesthesia

Found in the corner left of Time Dilation (Between All Dressed and Tips crack). Begin by standing on pedestal and start up finger/tight hand crack pulling small roof to gain a good stance. Some ‘technical’ gear placements get you through the flaring section to a hand crack. Pull the bulge and then the off-width chimney action begins. Rappel down route (30 meters)

0.3-0.75, extra 0.5, #2, 3x #3, #4, 2x #5

FA: Brent Clark, 23 Aug 2020

5.10a Trad 30m
34 Time Dilation

This beautiful corner can be found between All Dressed and Tips Crack. Start up corner utilizing small crack and jugs to gain a large ledge at base of the corner. Continue up left facing corner with great movement utilizing the odd foot chips on the face and arete. (30 meters) Anchors on the face or pull the lip and rappel down General Anesthesia (Climbers left)

Double rack #0.3 to 0.75, #1, #2. Load up on extra 0.5

FFA: Brent Clark, 15 Jul 2020

5.11a Trad 30m
35 Tips Crack

Two bolts to gain a ledge then climb the splitter tips crack to the anchor

5.12a Trad 18m
36 Vision Quest

Double crack system left of 'Nothing Shocking'

5.10c Trad
37 Nothing Shocking 5.10 Trad 24m
38 Ace of Swords

Gear to #4 C4

5.9 Trad 23m
39 Finger Lickin' Good 5.12a Trad
40 Returning 5.8 Trad 22m
41 Training Wheels

A little dirty, a little loose at the top. Around the corner from Finger Lickin'

5.7 Trad

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Pop Area
5.4 Cracks of Dawn Trad 1.2. Outward Bound Area
Jacob's Ladder Trad 1.2. Outward Bound Area
5.5 Fairdinkem Trad 1.2. Outward Bound Area
Solstice Trad 1.2. Outward Bound Area
5.6 Fatman Trad 1.2. Outward Bound Area
5.7 Gendarme Trad 1.2. Outward Bound Area
La Connection Francaise Trad 1.2. Outward Bound Area
Shakleton Trad 1.2. Outward Bound Area
Training Wheels Trad 1.3. Claghorn Long Wall
5.8 Faith Trad 1.2. Outward Bound Area
Flakey Trad 1.2. Outward Bound Area
Raccoon Trad 1.2. Outward Bound Area
Ten Trad 1.2. Outward Bound Area
Getting Stung Trad 2 1.3. Claghorn Long Wall
Returning Trad 22m 1.3. Claghorn Long Wall
Shuffleupagus Trad 20m 1.3. Claghorn Long Wall
5.9 Horny Finger Top rope 20m 1.1. Northern Limit Wall
Bridge of Sighs Trad 1.2. Outward Bound Area
Ace of Swords Trad 23m 1.3. Claghorn Long Wall
Craft of the Dessert Warrior Trad 1.3. Claghorn Long Wall
Deception Trad 30m 1.3. Claghorn Long Wall
Fraggle Rock Trad 1.3. Claghorn Long Wall
Grade School Mixed trad 4 1.3. Claghorn Long Wall
5.9 A1 Limited Time Offer Aid 1.3. Claghorn Long Wall
Wasserboxer Aid 30m 1.3. Claghorn Long Wall
5.10a Smash That Cherry Twist Sport 26m, 10 1.2. Outward Bound Area
All Dressed Trad 28m 1.3. Claghorn Long Wall
CNN Trad 30m 1.3. Claghorn Long Wall
General Anesthesia Trad 30m 1.3. Claghorn Long Wall
The Alberta Ride Sport 1.3. Claghorn Long Wall
Titanium Tiger Trad 28m 1.3. Claghorn Long Wall
5.10b A perfect uneven pair Mixed trad 5 1.3. Claghorn Long Wall
5.10b/c Maltese Sandwhiches Sport 1.3. Claghorn Long Wall
5.10c Deez Nuts Mixed trad 2 1.3. Claghorn Long Wall
Vision Quest Trad 1.3. Claghorn Long Wall
5.10 Pushing the Limit Top rope 28m 1.1. Northern Limit Wall
Nothing Shocking Trad 24m 1.3. Claghorn Long Wall
TVs and Torsos Trad 40m 1.3. Claghorn Long Wall
5.11a The Negotiator Sport 1.3. Claghorn Long Wall
Time Dilation Trad 30m 1.3. Claghorn Long Wall
5.11c The Claghorn Sport 1.3. Claghorn Long Wall
5.11d Muscular Teenage boys take of their wetsuit and reveal the full package Mixed trad 6 1.3. Claghorn Long Wall
The Dirty Kowala Sport 1.3. Claghorn Long Wall
5.12a Cry of the Snow Lion Mixed trad 2 1.3. Claghorn Long Wall
Finger Lickin' Good Trad 1.3. Claghorn Long Wall
The Beginning Sport 1.3. Claghorn Long Wall
The Drifter Sport 1.3. Claghorn Long Wall
Tips Crack Trad 18m 1.3. Claghorn Long Wall
5.12b Hollow like a bamboo Sport 1.3. Claghorn Long Wall
5.12d Gift of the trees Sport 1.3. Claghorn Long Wall
Jack Layton Memorial Route Sport 1.3. Claghorn Long Wall
Ninja Assassin Sport 1.3. Claghorn Long Wall
Quiet Earth Mixed trad 6 1.3. Claghorn Long Wall
5.13a Farewell to Arms Sport 11 1.3. Claghorn Long Wall
Finlandia Sport 1.3. Claghorn Long Wall
? Thanksgiving Route AidProject 1.3. Claghorn Long Wall
A3 What's In Your Head Aid 30m 1.3. Claghorn Long Wall
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