A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.
This guide was generated anonymously. Login to show your logged ascents against each route.
Warning
Rock climbing is extremely dangerous and can result in serious injury or death. Users acting on any information directly or indirectly available from this site do so at their own risk.
This guide is compiled from a community of users and is presented without verification that the information is accurate or complete and is subject to system errors. By using this guide you acknowledge that the material described in this document is extremely dangerous, and that the content may be misleading or wrong. In particular there may be misdescriptions of routes, incorrectly drawn topo lines, incorrect difficulty ratings or incorrect or missing protection ratings. This includes both errors from the content and system errors.
Nobody has checked this particlular guide so you cannot rely on it's accuracy like you would a store bought guide.
You should not depend on any information gleaned from this guide for your personal safety.
You must keep this warning with the guide. For more information refer to our:
Usage policy
Contributors
Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:
David Gibbs Brent Clark Tim Nowaczyk Fraser Ben Nick S Campbell Gome Cody Cook Ryan Rumpel DaveH
The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.
Table of contents
- 1.
Thunder Bay
635 in Crag
- 1.1. Highway 61 2 in Cliff
-
1.2.
Lost Falls 36 in Crag
- 1.2.1. Bee Hive 5 in Boulder
- 1.2.2. Little Block of Horrors 3 in Sector
- 1.2.3. The Rock Bar 4 in Sector
- 1.2.4. Zay Buttress 4 in Sector
- 1.2.5. Lost Falls Wall, Right Side 3 in Sector
- 1.2.6. Lost Falls Wall, Left Side 2 in Sector
- 1.2.7. On Buttress 3 in Sector
- 1.2.8. On Ledge 4 in Sector
- 1.2.9. Below Ledge 5 in Sector
- 1.2.10. Big Thunder Wall 3 in Sector
-
1.3.
Climber's Cliffs 32 in Crag
- 1.3.1. Jolly Jester Wall 8 in Sector
- 1.3.2. Tower of Power Area 11 in Sector
- 1.3.3. Wall of Pigs 1 in Sector
- 1.3.4. Sickle Wall 6 in Sector
- 1.3.5. Windalogo Wall 6 in Sector
-
1.4.
Mt. Godfrey 19 in Crag
- 1.4.1. Iron Curtain 10 in Sector
- 1.4.2. Windy Walls 4 in Sector
- 1.4.3. Ol' West Area 4 in Sector
- 1.4.4. Totem Pole Area 1 in Sector
-
1.5.
Squaw Bay 48 in Crag
- 1.5.1. The Kennel 4 in Sector
- 1.5.2. First Buttress 5 in Sector
- 1.5.3. Alpine Outing Wall 8 in Sector
- 1.5.4. Tundra Wall 9 in Sector
- 1.5.5. Chiller Pillar Wall 22 in Sector
- 1.6. Hawkeye Lake 4 in Cliff
-
1.7.
The Bluffs 126 in Crag
- 1.7.1. Willy Makit Wall 11 in Cliff
- 1.7.2. Betty Won't Bluff Wall 9 in Cliff
- 1.7.3. Wayout World Wall 6 in Cliff
- 1.7.4. Orangeman Wall 16 in Cliff
- 1.7.5. Land of Many Uses, Mr. and Mrs. Natural Habitat Area 22 in Cliff
- 1.7.6. Split Beaver 17 in Cliff
- 1.7.7. Jump Pinnacle, Beginner's Crack, Fancy Footings 20 in Cliff
- 1.7.8. Powerline Corridor 24 in Cliff
- 1.8. Water Tower 10 in Cliff
- 1.9. Terry Fox Memorial Lookout 0 in Field
-
1.10.
Silver Harbour 102 in Crag
- 1.10.1. Wild West 17 in Sector
- 1.10.2. First Impressions 12 in Sector
- 1.10.3. Silverline Wall 38 in Sector
- 1.10.4. Sunnyside Wall 12 in Sector
- 1.10.5. Orgasmatron Wall 13 in Sector
- 1.10.6. 15 Minutes to Heaven 10 in Sector
- 1.11. McKenzie 0 in Crag
- 1.12. Caribou Island 5 in Crag
-
1.13.
Pass Lake 61 in Crag
- 1.13.1. Engorgement Party 9 in Cliff
- 1.13.2. Staircase Wall 2 in Cliff
- 1.13.3. Dog's Wall 4 in Cliff
- 1.13.4. Chip Off the Old Block 11 in Cliff
- 1.13.5. Overhang Wall/No Man's Land 13 in Cliff
- 1.13.6. Long Wall 22 in Cliff
- 1.14. Sleeping Giant 23 in Crag
- 1.15. Pearl 13 in Cliff
- 1.16. Dorion Towers 7 in Cliff
- 1.17. Outbreak Wall 28 in Area
-
1.18.
Claghorn 57 in Crag
- 1.18.1. Northern Limit Wall 2 in Cliff
- 1.18.2. Outward Bound Area 14 in Cliff
- 1.18.3. Claghorn Long Wall 41 in Cliff
- 1.19. Chipmunk Rock 4 in Cliff
- 1.20. Mt. Helen 12 in Cliff
-
1.21.
Orient Bay 42 in Crag
- 1.21.1. Taj Mah Wall / The Tajmahwall 11 in Cliff
- 1.21.2. Da' Projects 9 in Cliff
- 1.21.3. The Doughnut Wall 1 in Cliff
- 1.21.4. The Schoolhouse 3 in Cliff
- 1.21.5. Big Rig Wall 1 in Cliff
- 1.21.6. Mount Olympus 9 in Cliff
- 1.21.7. Reflection Wall 2 in Cliff
- 1.21.8. The Tongue/Spy Wall 2 in Cliff
- 1.21.9. Mahkwa Buttress 4 in Cliff
- 1.22. Kama Bay 3 in Cliff
- 1.23. Neys Provincial Park 1 in Cliff
- 1.24. Boulder Bear Climbing Centre 0 in Gym
- 2. Index by grade
1. Thunder Bay 635 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Trad climbing, Top roping and other styles
Lat / Long: 48.755120, -88.149508
summary
A variety of cliffs on different types of stone in the gorgeous setting of the north shore of Lake Superior.
description
Climbing in and around Thunder Bay. Generally different crags and cliffs within about a 2-hour drive of the city of Thunder Bay. The majority of crags are diabase with local sandstone and granite cliffs.
As of 2016, the most current guide to climbs in this area is "Thunder Bay Climbing: A guide to Northwestern Ontario's Best Kept Secret" by Aric Fishman. (https://outdoorskillsandthrills.com/tbay-climbing-guidebook)
Sub-areas ordered roughly west to east.
access issues
Many of the crags on on private land or private land needs to be crossed to access the crag. Please respect the area, it is a privilege to be allowed to climb at these crags.
Leave no trace, respect other parties, and be mindful if you have music or dogs at the crag.
where to stay
There is a campsite on Black Sturgeon Road.
Alternatively there is camping at the Nipigon Marina, Chippewa Park, and other near the city of Thunder Bay.
1.1. Highway 61 2 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
All Trad climbing
description
Cliffs near the side of highway 61, about 45 minutes south of Thunder Bay.
Probably on private land, tread carefully.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Farewell Friends
FA: Scott Morgan & Randy Reed, 1997 | 5.10 | 25m | |||
2 |
Black Fly
FA: Scott Morgan & Randy Reed (TR), 1997 | 5.9 | 25m |
1.2. Lost Falls 36 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Trad climbing, Bouldering and other styles
Lat / Long: 48.312150, -89.324571
description
(Climbs described right-to-left, as they would generally be encountered on the usual approach.)
access issues
This crag is on the boarder of FWFN. Currently there are no access issues but please be mindful of trail degradation.
approach
Drive and park at the end of Coppin Road. Follow the trail leading east, if this is very wet and (Early spring) one can take the trail on the western side of the road and loop back to the east where the trails join. Continue along trail and take the trail on the left after coming up a small rise (Flagging tape). Continue past boulder turning right at the next smaller trail. This will bring you up to the main bowl.
where to stay
Chippewa Park
1.2.1. Bee Hive 5 routes in Boulder
- Summary:
-
Bouldering and Trad climbing
description
House-sized boulder encountered on the hike in.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Bumble Bugs | V3 | ||||
2 | ★★ Boo Bees | V1 | ||||
3 | Honey, Nuts and Oats | V4 | ||||
4 | Num Nuts | V1 | ||||
5 | Bam Bam | 5.9 | 10m |
1.2.2. Little Block of Horrors 3 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Trad climbing and Bouldering
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Texas Chainsaw Massacre | 5.10a | 7m | |||
2 | Poltergeist | 5.11 | 5m | |||
3 | Caspar | V0 | 3m |
1.2.3. The Rock Bar 4 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
All Trad climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Beer for My Horses | 5.6 | ||||
2 | Whiskey for My Men | 5.8 | ||||
3 | First Round's on Me | 5.8 | ||||
4 | Hard Day's Work | 5.7 |
1.2.4. Zay Buttress 4 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Trad climbing and Sport climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Idilly Bidillyt | 5.8 | 25m | |||
2 | Shinanigans | 5.10- | 20m, 6 | |||
3 | Hazey Waves | 5.10c | 15m, 8 | |||
4 | Crossing the Nile | 5.10d | 15m, 5 |
1.2.5. Lost Falls Wall, Right Side 3 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
All Trad climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★★ Too Tall For Webster | 5.9 | 45m | |||
2 | ★★ Deceptacon | 5.10 | 30m | |||
3 | ★★★ Green Lantern | 5.8 | 40m |
1.2.6. Lost Falls Wall, Left Side 2 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
All Trad climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | O Shit I'm Dead and My Arm's Real Long | 5.8 | 25m | |||
2 |
Escape from the Black Flies
Lots of variant starts from 5.5 to 5.8 into a 5.6 climb, with maybe even a 5.11 face to the left. | 5.6 | 25m |
1.2.7. On Buttress 3 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
All Trad climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Copper's Breakfast | 5.7 | 30m | |||
2 | Priority Check | 5.8 | 30m, 2 | |||
3 | ★★★ Danebat | 5.10d | 15m |
1.2.8. On Ledge 4 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Trad climbing and Aid climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Anchors Away | 5.9 A1 | 30m | |||
2 | Cinnamon | 5.10c | 25m | |||
3 | Scoliosis | 5.10a | 20m | |||
4 | ★★ Foxy | 5.10a | 25m |
1.2.9. Below Ledge 5 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
All Trad climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Mr. Sandman | 5.10a | 12m | |||
2 | Mother-Son Relations | 5.9 | 20m | |||
3 | Sandbag | 5.10b | 20m | |||
4 | Minding Margaret | 5.10b | 20m | |||
5 | ★★★ No Fat People | 5.5 | 15m |
1.2.10. Big Thunder Wall 3 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
All Trad climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★ Myopic Adventure
P1 5.4, 15m P2 5.8 25m/30m (depending on finish) | 5.8 | 45m, 2 | |||
2 |
★★★ Myopic Adventure Direct Start
Alternate first pitch. | 5.8 | 15m | |||
3 |
Myopic Adventure Face
Alternate 2nd pitch. | 5.10 | 20m |
1.3. Climber's Cliffs 32 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Trad climbing, Sport climbing and other styles
Lat / Long: 48.321326, -89.302861
summary
Private property. Do not access this crag without permission.
1.3.1. Jolly Jester Wall 8 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Trad climbing, Bouldering and other styles
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Den | 5.7 | 25m | |||
2 | ★★ Tudy | 5.8 | 25m | |||
3 |
Bushed
Not recommended 2nd pitch above "Tudy" | 5.6 | 15m | |||
4 |
Electric Gigolo
(Grade not confirmed.) | 5.13a | 22m, 8 | |||
5 | Blade Runner | A2+ | 22m | |||
6 |
★★★ Five Finger Discount
(Second pitch is called Courage Crack.) | 5.8 | 45m, 2 | |||
7 |
Horizontal Wastelands
Traverse the nearly horizontal crack a couple meters above the ground. | V0 | ||||
8 | ★★ Wet Dreams | 5.8 | 45m, 2 |
1.3.2. Tower of Power Area 11 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Mostly Trad climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Bong It In | 5.10a | 20m | |||||
2 | Thick and Thin | 5.9 | 20m | |||||
The following two climbs start on top of the Tower of Power (big pillar), and are effectively choices as 2nd pitches for the previous 2 climbs. | ||||||||
4 | Snake Skin | 5.9 | 15m | |||||
5 | Hot Plate | 5.10b R | 20m | |||||
6 | ★★ Fit To Be Tied | 5.11b | 40m, 14 | |||||
The next climbs are farther right along the cliff. | ||||||||
8 | Fashion and Accessories | 5.7 | 45m | |||||
9 | Jeff's Joke | 5.7 | 17m | |||||
10 | Jeff's Second Joke | 5.7 | 17m | |||||
11 | Lauziere Chimney | 5.4 | 50m | |||||
12 | ★★ Fuck It | C3 | 40m | |||||
13 | ★ Cobra in the Kindergarten | 5.10 | 30m |
1.3.3. Wall of Pigs 1 route in Sector
- Summary:
-
All Trad climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Death Wish Chimney
Widest, loosest, most dangerous-looking chimney around. | 5.8 | 40m |
1.3.4. Sickle Wall 6 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Trad climbing, Sport climbing and other styles
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Galactic Wall | 5.10 | 10m | |||
2 |
Arrested for Mopery
(Not freed as of 2006?) | 5.12 A0 | 20m, 2, 8 | |||
3 | Stiffy | 5.10- | 5m | |||
4 | ★★ Uncle Frank's Supper Club | 5.10+ A2 | 45m | |||
5 | ★★ Ignorance & Arrogance | 5.9 | 40m | |||
6 | Ball Buster | A2 | 40m |
1.3.5. Windalogo Wall 6 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
All Trad climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Feature Presentation | 5.10 R | 18m | |||
2 | Sneak Preview | 5.9 | 18m | |||
3 | ACO | 5.8 | 15m | |||
4 | Easter Surprise | 5.7 | 10m | |||
5 | Identity Crisis | 5.9 | 10m | |||
6 | Black Plague | 5.9 | 9m |
1.4. Mt. Godfrey 19 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Trad climbing, Top roping and Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 48.327698, -89.280194
summary
North-facing shaded cliff.
access issues
On FWFN land -- treat the area with respect. Wear hunter orange or bright colours if planning on climbing here.
1.4.1. Iron Curtain 10 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Top roping, Sport climbing and Trad climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Deja Vu | 5.9 | 10m | |||
2 | Eskimo Kiss | 5.10b | 13m, 5 | |||
3 | ★★★ Bear Hug | 5.10b | 12m, 4 | |||
4 | Birch Out of Rock | 5.7 | 10m | |||
5 | Stone Roses | 5.10c | 13m | |||
6 | The Fearless Blind Man | 5.10- | 15m | |||
7 | A.S.A. | 5.8 | 9m | |||
8 | Tamarack | 5.12c | 22m, 10 | |||
9 | The Whipping | 5.11b | 22m | |||
10 | Renaissance Man | 5.11d | 22m |
1.4.2. Windy Walls 4 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Trad climbing and Top roping
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Chemically High | 5.10b | 30m | |||
2 | Dynamic Duo | 5.11a | 30m | |||
3 | 'Shrooming Experience | 5.8 | 27m | |||
4 | (Unknown) | 5.10a | 27m |
1.4.3. Ol' West Area 4 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Trad climbing and Sport climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | The Wrangler | 5.12b | 22m | |||
2 | Lost Traditions | 5.10b | 30m, 2 | |||
3 | Right of Way | 5.10+ | 30m, 2 | |||
4 | Spear Head Chimney | 5.5 | 30m |
1.4.4. Totem Pole Area 1 route in Sector
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★★★ Echoes of the Totem | 5.12d | 25m |
1.5. Squaw Bay 48 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Trad climbing, Aid climbing and other styles
Lat / Long: 48.297704, -89.240140
description
Routes generally listed from right (north) to left (south) in the various cliffs.
access issues
On FWFN land
1.5.1. The Kennel 4 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Trad climbing and Rock climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Shin Breaker Gully | Class 3 | 60m | |||
2 | Mad Dog | 5.10 | 35m | |||
3 | Kat Scratch | 5.10 | 55m | |||
4 | ★★★ Dark Dog | 5.8 | 45m, 2 |
1.5.2. First Buttress 5 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Trad climbing and Aid climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★★ Stuck in a Jam | 5.9 | 23m | |||
2 | ★★ Six-foot Roof | A2 | 40m | |||
3 | ★★★ Rehearsal | 5.11+ | 20m | |||
4 | Owens & Wong | 5.8 | 15m | |||
5 | ★★ Teenage Porn Stars | 5.8 | 20m |
1.5.3. Alpine Outing Wall 8 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Trad climbing and Aid climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Yonder | A2 | 27m | |||
2 | Sensuality | 5.8 | 45m | |||
3 | ★★★ Let's Be Frank | 5.8 | 72m, 2 | |||
4 |
Let's Be Frank, Direct Start
Not recommended. | C2 | ||||
5 |
★★ Let's Be Frank Variation
Variant 2nd pitch. | 5.10 | 45m | |||
6 | ★★ Cedar Haven | 5.8 | 65m, 2 | |||
7 | Double Bypass | 5.9 | 65m | |||
8 | Dirty Loose Bitch | 5.9 | 65m |
1.5.4. Tundra Wall 9 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Sport climbing, Trad climbing and Rock climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Aurora Borealis | 5.11 | 40m, 15 | |||
2 |
Umiaks
Book says rating 5.10-5.12?? | 5.10 | 45m, 5 | |||
3 | Wooly Mamooth Ain't So Wooly | 5.11 | 45m, 18 | |||
4 |
Treeline Gully
Scramble | Class 4 | 60m | |||
5 | ★★★ Inukshuk | 5.10+ | 60m, 2 | |||
6 | ★★★ Musk Ox on Morphine | 5.11b | 25m, 12 | |||
7 | Polar Bear Express | 5.11a | 50m | |||
8 | ★★★ Jenga | 5.10c | 65m, 2, 16 | |||
9 | Off-Width Crack? | 5.8 | 35m |
1.5.5. Chiller Pillar Wall 22 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Trad climbing and Aid climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★★★ American Demon | 5.8 A2+ | 70m, 3 | |||
2 | ★★★ Tag | 5.11a | 60m, 2 | |||
3 | Cream & Suga | 5.11a | ||||
4 | Pokey Kitty | A3 | 40m | |||
5 | Pokey Puppy | A2 | 40m | |||
6 | April Fools | A2 | 40m, 2 | |||
7 | ★★★ Test of Patience | A3 | 25m | |||
8 |
★★★ Stuffin' Martha's Muffin
(Or C2) | 5.10c | 25m | |||
9 | Right Ski Track | 5.10d | 15m | |||
10 | Placebo | 5.9 | 15m | |||
11 |
★★★ Cam-A-Lot
P1 5.10b 50m P2 5.8, 18m, choss - not recommended. | 5.10b | 68m, 2 | |||
12 | 1-900-HARDCOR | 5.10b R | 27m | |||
13 |
★★ Right-Hand Man
P1 - 40m, 5.10 A1 P2 - 22m, 5.10a | 5.10 A1 | 62m, 2 | |||
14 | Illusion Solution | 5.9 A1 | 65m, 2 | |||
15 |
★★★ Spiral Galaxy
2 Pitches overlooking Lake Superior. Follow the crack system to larger belay ledge with 2 bolt anchor. Crux first move on second pitch. Follow crack again to large ledge at top rap from anchors there 60m to bottom. FA: S Parent & Scott Kress, 1981 | 5.7 | 60m, 2 | |||
16 | Saucison | 5.10c | ||||
17 | ★★★ Beam Me Up Scotty | 5.10a | 32m | |||
18 | Beam Me Up Scotty variaton | 5.11 | 32m | |||
19 | Rescue Route | 5.6 | ||||
20 | Quasar | 5.8 | ||||
21 | The Web | 5.8 | 22m | |||
22 | Space Walk | 5.7 | 22m, 2 |
1.6. Hawkeye Lake 4 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Top roping and Trad climbing
Lat / Long: 48.687989, -89.454173
description
Cliffs on the far (north) side Hawkeye Lake.
approach
By boat.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Protein Diet | 5.6 | 18m | |||
2 | Mostly Harmless | 5.11+ | 25m | |||
3 | Bat in the Hole | 5.11+ | 25m | |||
4 | ★★ Cannibilistic Hamster | 5.9 | 55m, 2, 7 |
1.7. The Bluffs 126 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Top roping, Trad climbing and other styles
Lat / Long: 48.473639, -89.197207
summary
In town. Short with lots of top-roping.
description
In Centennial Park, in Thunder Bay - so easy and quick to get to. Also easy top of cliff access for top roping -- but nothing taller than 10m.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Balsam Pitch
Dunno where this fits... maybe on the Sabre Wall? Nothing about it in the Thunder Bay Rock guide. | 5.7 |
1.7.1. Willy Makit Wall 11 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
All Top roping
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | That's All | 5.5 | 8m | |||
2 | Giving Up | 5.6 | 8m | |||
3 | Oh Man | 5.5 | 8m | |||
4 | Ish | 5.9 | 8m | |||
5 | Give Er | 5.10 | 8m | |||
6 | Rad Rules | 5.7 | 8m | |||
7 | Try It You'll Hate It | 5.8 | 8m | |||
8 | Third Try | 5.6 | 8m | |||
9 | Second Try | 5.7 | 8m | |||
10 |
Edge of the Wave
FA: B. Konkol, 1990 | 5.6 | 8m | |||
11 | First Try | 5.5 | 8m |
1.7.2. Betty Won't Bluff Wall 9 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
All Top roping
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | I've Had It | 5.5 | 8m | |||
2 | Give Up | 5.4 | 8m | |||
3 | Cannonball Run | 5.8 | 8m | |||
4 | I Enjoy 69 | 5.5 | 8m | |||
5 | Farewell Friends | 5.6 | 8m | |||
6 | Cheapscape | 5.4 | 8m | |||
7 | ★★★ Hine-a-kin | 5.5 | 8m | |||
8 | Snorter | 5.8 | 8m | |||
9 | Yabob | 5.7 | 8m |
1.7.3. Wayout World Wall 6 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
All Top roping
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Freak Street | 5.6 | 8m | |||
2 | Love Connection | 5.7 | 8m | |||
3 | Rum Doodle Bar & Grill | 5.6 | 8m | |||
4 | The Double O | 5.7 | 8m | |||
5 | Booking Up | 5.6 | 8m | |||
6 | Up Yours | 5.8 | 8m |
1.7.4. Orangeman Wall 16 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Top roping and Trad climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Block Buster | 5.7 | 6m | |||
2 | Loose Rockfall | 5.6 | 6m | |||
3 | Sidewinder | 5.8 | 8m | |||
4 | Exocet | 5.5 | 9m | |||
5 | ★ Orange Crush | 5.11b | 9m | |||
6 | Passing Grade | 5.11a | 9m | |||
7 | Lemon Lime | 5.7 | 7m | |||
8 | Yellow Chimney | 5.5 | 6m | |||
9 | ★★ Rockwork Orange | 5.6 | 8m | |||
10 | ★★★ Rockwork Orange Direct | 5.8 | 8m | |||
11 | Above and Beyond | 5.10d | 9m | |||
12 | Rockwork Orange Right | 5.7 | 9m | |||
13 | ★ Nipple Mania | 5.8 | 9m | |||
14 | Alice in Wonderland | 5.8 | 8m | |||
15 | Joy Division | 5.9 | 8m | |||
16 | Keystone | 5.10a | 8m |
1.7.5. Land of Many Uses, Mr. and Mrs. Natural Habitat Area 22 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Top roping, Trad climbing and Aid climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Crack Gringo | 5.4 | 8m | |||
2 | The Walk | 5.7 | 8m | |||
3 | Ogre Face Left | 5.9 | 8m | |||
4 | ★ Ogre Face Right | 5.10a | 8m | |||
5 | Gardener's Rock | 5.8 | 9m | |||
6 | Garden's Edge | 5.10d | 9m | |||
7 | Gardening Slot | 5.10+ | 9m | |||
8 | Trisuli Basaar | A2 | 9m | |||
9 | (unknown) | 5.8 | 9m | |||
10 | ★ Antagonist | 5.6 | 9m | |||
11 | Dance of the Ballerina | 5.8 | 6m | |||
12 | Just a Quicky | 5.5 | 6m | |||
13 | Poony's Pie | A1 | 8m | |||
14 | Mr. Put | 5.5 | 8m | |||
15 | Root Cellar | 5.5 | 6m | |||
16 | Short and Sweet | 5.5 | 6m | |||
17 | Gardener's Tips | 5.9 | 8m | |||
18 | No Hang Ups | 5.9 | 8m | |||
19 | Face This Nation | 5.2 | 8m | |||
20 | Mrs. Natural | 5.5 | 6m | |||
21 | Steroid King | 5.9 | 6m | |||
22 | Mr. Natural | 5.8 | 6m |
1.7.6. Split Beaver 17 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Top roping, Trad climbing and Aid climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Edward | 5.4 | 8m | |||
2 | Impossible Dream | 5.6 | 8m | |||
3 | ★★ Galaxian | 5.10b | 9m | |||
4 | Galaxian Direct | 5.11a | 9m | |||
5 | Split Beaver | 5.5 | 10m | |||
6 | Zugspit | 5.5 | 7m | |||
7 | Erect Nipplephobia | 5.10a | 6m | |||
8 | Seam of Dreams | 5.12 | 9m | |||
9 | Snow Covered Chunky Nuts | A3 | 9m | |||
10 |
★ Conquering Armies
FA: S. Parent & J. Murphy, 1981 | 5.7 | 9m | |||
11 | ★ Dancer | 5.7 | 9m | |||
12 | Medley | 5.5 | 7m | |||
13 | The Complex | 5.8 | 9m | |||
14 | Oltenrec | 5.8 | 9m | |||
15 | Unknown | 5.10+ | 7m | |||
16 | Don't Jump | 5.6 | 10m | |||
17 | Psychosexual | 5.11a | 7m |
1.7.7. Jump Pinnacle, Beginner's Crack, Fancy Footings 20 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Top roping and Trad climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Let's Face It | 5.9 | 7m | |||
2 | Let's Face It Direct | 5.10c | 7m | |||
3 | For Your Eyes Only | 5.5 | 8m | |||
4 | Flake | 5.4 | 6m | |||
5 | A Short Hard Climb | 5.10a | 6m | |||
6 | Crank It | 5.8 | 6m | |||
7 | Smitty's Traverse | 5.6 | 6m | |||
8 | Get a Grip | 5.5 | 6m | |||
9 | Grab a Hold | 5.5 | 6m | |||
10 | No Knees Please | 5.5 | 7m | |||
11 | Zig Zag | 5.7 | 7m | |||
12 | Zig Zag Direct | 5.10a | 7m | |||
13 | Momentum | 5.9 | 9m | |||
14 | Heidi's Horror | 5.8 | 8m | |||
15 | Bibble | 5.7 | 6m | |||
16 | ★ Chalk Sux | 5.8 | 9m | |||
17 | Upper Dihedral | 5.2 | 8m | |||
18 | Loose Noose | 5.6 | 9m | |||
19 | Randy's Crack / Bestid Me | 5.9 | 9m | |||
20 | Fancy Footing | 5.5 | 4m |
1.7.8. Powerline Corridor 24 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Top roping, Trad climbing and Aid climbing
Lat / Long: 48.474742, -89.196649
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Boulder Dash | 5.7 | 6m | |||
2 | Finger Lickin' | 5.9 | 6m | |||
3 | ★★★ Flake 'til You Shake | 5.8 | 7m | |||
4 | Falling Rock | 5.7 | 7m | |||
5 | Twin Sisters | 5.5 | 8m | |||
6 | Corner Crack | 5.5 | 9m | |||
7 |
★★ Flying Dutchman
Previously Bolted. Straight up the arete. | 5.12a | 9m | |||
8 | Fudge Off | 5.10+ | 10m | |||
9 | Project | A5 | 10m | |||
10 | Hookenbladen | A3 | 10m | |||
11 | The Sick and the Afflicted | 5.12b | 10m | |||
12 | John and Ponchareli | A2 | 10m | |||
13 | Walk Up | 5.5 | 10m | |||
14 | ★ Assgripper | 5.8 | 9m | |||
15 | Misconception | 5.10d | 9m | |||
16 | See Forest Fail | 5.10c | 9m | |||
17 | Richards Crack | 5.7 | 10m | |||
18 | ★ I'll Do This One | 5.10c | 10m | |||
19 | "C" is for Clowns | 5.7 | 9m | |||
20 | Partner | 5.5 | 7m | |||
21 | Guy's Dream | 5.8 | 7m | |||
22 | Twenty Bucks | 5.8 | 7m | |||
23 | Coots | 5.6 | 7m | |||
24 | Shorty | 5.4 | 7m |
1.8. Water Tower 10 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Top roping, Sport climbing and Trad climbing
Lat / Long: 48.481425, -89.177553
description
Short cliff, like the Bluffs, but far less climbed near a water tower.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Flat-bed Ford | 5.3 | 8m | |||
2 | Pod da Hood | 5.10b | 9m | |||
3 | Camaro | 5.7 | 8m | |||
4 | VW Bus | 5.6 | 8m | |||
5 | VW Bus with a Porsche Engine | 5.7 | 8m | |||
6 | Dodge Challenger | 5.7 | 8m | |||
7 | Hemi Charger | 5.8 | 8m | |||
8 | New Hemi Charger | 5.10b | 8m | |||
9 | Mom's Harley | 5.7 | 8m | |||
10 | 4Runner | 5.9 | 8m |
1.9. Terry Fox Memorial Lookout 0 routes in Field
description
Bouldering on the cliffs (road-cut, dynamited) around the Terry Fox Memorial
Try to be non-obvious... this area can get a lot of non-climber traffic.
1.10. Silver Harbour 102 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Trad climbing, Sport climbing and other styles
Lat / Long: 48.513645, -88.967825
1.10.1. Wild West 17 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Top roping, Trad climbing and Sport climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Fight Like a Brave | 5.8 | 9m | |||
2 | Righteous and the Wicked | 5.9 | 6m | |||
3 | Ferngully | 5.5 | 8m | |||
4 | ★★ Dedi Did It | 5.8 | 8m | |||
5 | ★ Every Which Way But Loose | 5.8 | 9m | |||
6 | Smok'n Gun | 5.7 | ||||
7 | Stretch to the Moon | 5.11d | 9m, 2 | |||
8 | ★★★ Tan Lines | 5.9 | ||||
9 | French Line | 5.10c | ||||
10 | ★★ Don't Mess With Texas | 5.6 | ||||
11 | Ever To Be Free | 5.12a | 9m | |||
12 |
★★★ Wit of a Ninja
Grade tentative | 5.12a | 9m, 4 | |||
13 | Orange Crush | 5.9 | ||||
14 | Electric Beach | 5.9 | ||||
15 | Happy Go Lucky | 5.6 | ||||
16 | Be Happy and Get Lucky | 5.10 | 10m | |||
17 | (project) | 5.12 |
1.10.2. First Impressions 12 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Trad climbing, Sport climbing and other styles
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★★★ Black Stallion Arete | {AU} YDS:5.10d | 12m | |||
2 | (project) | 5.11+ | 10m | |||
3 | Orange Gonorrhea Crack | A3 | 10m | |||
4 |
★★ Silver Harbour Dreamline
FFA: Dave Smart, 1998 | {AU} YDS:5.11b | 12m | |||
5 | ★★ Leaning Tower | 5.10d | 13m | |||
6 | ★ Lindsay's Big "O" | 5.9 | ||||
7 | ★ Will Power | 5.9 | ||||
8 | ★ Iron Fist | 5.7 | ||||
9 | On the Verge | 5.10a | ||||
10 | ★★ Record Body Count | 5.10a | 15m, 5 | |||
11 | Gale Force | V2 | ||||
12 | ★★★ Greco | 5.9 | 10m |
1.10.3. Silverline Wall 38 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Sport climbing, Trad climbing and Top roping
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★★ Reach Route | 5.10a | 3 | |||
2 | ★ Flow | 5.10d | 5 | |||
3 | ★★ Cliffhanger | 5.10c | 10m, 4 | |||
4 | ★ Return to Sender | 5.11+ | 10m | |||
5 | Cat Track | 5.8 | ||||
6 | ★★★ Mamba | 5.8 | 13m | |||
7 |
Pullin' Out the Stops
Or, 5.6 A1. | 5.11+ | 13m | |||
8 | ★ President's Choice | 5.8 | 12m | |||
9 | Ram the Big Cam | 5.7 | ||||
10 | ★★ Mashed Potatoes | 5.7 | 15m | |||
11 | ★★★ Block Buster | 5.10b | 10m, 4 | |||
12 | True Grit | 5.8 | ||||
13 | Boa Constriction | 5.8 | ||||
14 | Short, Sharp, Shocked | 5.10c | 11m | |||
15 | ★★ Made in the Shade | 5.10c | 11m | |||
16 | Who Needs Skin | 5.10d | ||||
17 | Climb of the Cave Bear | 5.5 | 8m | |||
18 | ★★★ Silver Birch | 5.10a | 10m | |||
19 | ★ The Unclimbed Crack | 5.10b | ||||
20 | Morgan's Magic | 5.8 | 11m | |||
21 | Ally | 5.8 | ||||
22 | ★★ Numb Hypothesis | 5.9 | ||||
23 | ★★ Stairmaster | 5.7 | ||||
24 |
Chicken wing till you ding
The offwidth crack to the right of stairmaster. | 5.7 | ||||
25 | ★★ Arachnophobia | 5.8 | 8m, 4 | |||
26 | Tumblina | 5.7 | 8m | |||
27 | Shrug It Off | 5.6 | 8m | |||
28 |
Fistin n' twistin
A retro bolted sport route that has been climbed with gear. | 5.10a | 10m, 4 | |||
29 | Black Hole | 5.12a | 12m | |||
30 | ★★★ Giv'er | 5.7 | ||||
31 | ★★★ Positively Fourth Street | 5.9 | 7m, 3 | |||
32 | ★★ Mother Jugs and Speed | 5.10c | 7m, 2 | |||
33 | On Your Marks | 5.10a | 7m | |||
34 | Van Shaiky | 5.8 | 7m | |||
35 |
Dog and Bone / The Fridge Route
FA: Aric Fishman & Mitch Marostica, 2013 | 5.11a | 8m, 3 | |||
36 | Band Aid | 5.7 | ||||
37 | Cross-Eyed | 5.10c | 10m | |||
38 | The Nose | 5.7 |
1.10.4. Sunnyside Wall 12 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Top roping, Sport climbing and Trad climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | After the Fall | 5.10a | ||||
2 | Bright and Sunny | 5.6 | ||||
3 | ★★★ Sunny Side Up | 5.7 | 10m | |||
4 |
Well Done
(alternate start to "Sunny Side Up") | 5.9 | 10m | |||
5 | ★★ Cam's Crack | 5.7 | ||||
6 | Rec'er Revisited | 5.7 | ||||
7 | Paul Bunyan's Nose | 5.8 | ||||
8 | Digit Damage | 5.9 | ||||
9 | Blanchard's Buttress | 5.8 | ||||
10 |
★★ Perspiring Buckets
(Tough for the grade.) | 5.10a | 4 | |||
11 | Squirrel Slab | 5.5 | ||||
12 | ★★ Winter Wonderland | 5.7 | 9m, 3 |
1.10.5. Orgasmatron Wall 13 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Sport climbing and Trad climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Frogs in the Blender | 5.9 | 1 | |||
2 | Rubber Arm Bar | 5.7 | ||||
3 | Temper Tantrum | 5.10a | ||||
4 | ★ The Milkman | 5.11c | ||||
5 |
★★ Nasty Girls
An undercling broke off near crux, Grade may be 11c/d now. | 5.11a | 13m, 5 | |||
6 | Rainmaker | 5.7 | 13m, 5 | |||
7 | ★ The Walker | 5.11c | 4 | |||
8 | Snake bite | 5.8 | 13m, 4 | |||
9 | I lichen it | 5.7 | 13m, 4 | |||
10 | ★ Rapberry Belay | 5.8 | 13m | |||
11 | ★★ Sunset Strawberries | 5.11a | 13m | |||
12 | ★★ The Power of the Claw | 5.11b | 15m | |||
13 | Nothing Up My Sleeve | 5.9 | 15m |
1.10.6. 15 Minutes to Heaven 10 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Trad climbing and Top roping
approach
Another 15 minutes down the wall, past a section where the cliffs degrade then re-appear.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Distant Travels | 5.10a | 9m | |||
2 | ★ Cloud 9 | 5.10a | 15m | |||
3 | ★★ Abstract Brain Candy | 5.10d | 13m | |||
4 | Bombs Away Petey | 5.8 | 13m | |||
5 | ★★ Assinine and out of My League | 5.10c | 13m | |||
6 | Bearded Wonder | 5.8 | 12m | |||
7 | Block of Death | 5.7 | 12m | |||
8 | Elvis Enroute | 5.9 | 10m | |||
9 | Project | 5.12 | 9m | |||
10 | ★ Huber Goes to Yosemite | 5.10+ | 10m |
1.11. McKenzie 0 routes in Crag
description
As of 2006 guide publication, on private land closed.
Sport and top-rope climbing area on steep sustained routes, generally 15-20m.
access issues
Private property, closed.
1.12. Caribou Island 5 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
All Trad climbing
Lat / Long: 48.528173, -88.856263
summary
Multi-pitch columnar basalt on an island.
description
Barely climbed or developped, a km or more of columnar diabase (basalt) cliffs on the north/western end of Caribou Island.
approach
Only by boat; closest public launch is Amethyst Bay.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Cornered | 5.7 | 40m | |||
2 | Slip Sliding Away | 5.8 | 50m | |||
3 | The Prow | 5.8 | 45m | |||
4 | The Sow | 5.9 | 40m | |||
5 | The Kow | 5.7 | 40m |
1.13. Pass Lake 61 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Trad climbing, Top roping and other styles
Lat / Long: 48.564998, -88.733161
description
A rare and unique outcrop of sandstone near the small town of Pass Lake east of Thunder Bay.
Some good routes of all grades up to 20m in height. Climbing is mostly on edges, in cracks and through roofs of varying size. Most routes require some gear, but there are full sport routes as well.
|
1.13.1. Engorgement Party 9 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Trad climbing, Sport climbing and Top roping
description
This is the left-most section of the wall, farthest to the west. The west end deteriorates into loose broken rubble left of this.
descent notes
Many climbs have rap anchors, otherwise walk off left, or down the 4th class ramp in the middle.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★ Engorgement Party
2m left of "Hand Jive". | 5.10b | 9m | |||
2 |
★ Hand Jive
Climbs the crack splitting the rust-coloured wall. FFA: Marc Barbeau & Chris Wrazej, 1987 | 5.7 | 9m | |||
3 | Unknown1 | 5.8 | 7m | |||
4 |
Unknown2
Between "Heat of Passion" and the 4th-class section to its left. | 5.9 | 13m | |||
5 | ★★★ Heat of Passion | 5.10b | 14m | |||
6 | ★★ Five Tendon | 5.10a | 17m | |||
7 |
★★★ Face Dancing
FFA: Chris Wrazej, 1988 | 5.10d | 16m, 6 | |||
8 | ★★ A Ripple in the Pool of Insanity | 5.9 | 15m | |||
9 | Rocky Horror | 5.7 | 12m |
1.13.2. Staircase Wall 2 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Trad climbing and Sport climbing
description
This is a very overhanging wall -- the multiple overhangs/roofs make it look like an upside-down staircase, hence the name.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★ Book of Dreams
Climbs a dihderal about 2/3s of the way along the wall (from the left). | 5.9 | 12m | |||
2 |
★ Hummingbird
A fun easy climb, the crux is the opening few moves to get to the 2nd clip. Set: aric fishman | 5.8 | 6 |
1.13.3. Dog's Wall 4 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Trad climbing and Sport climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Dead Dogs Don't Wear Plaid | 5.7 | 13m | |||
2 | Dog's Life | 5.10a | 9m | |||
3 | Pit Bull on Crack | 5.10c | 9m | |||
4 |
★★ Hummingbird
Set: aric fishman FA: aric fishman | 5.8 | 5 |
1.13.4. Chip Off the Old Block 11 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Top roping, Trad climbing and Sport climbing
description
This is a small island of rock that was once connected to the main cliff. It overlaps on the left side with the right side of "Dog's Wall".
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★ Praying Mantle | 5.9 | 7m | |||
2 | ★★ Ode to Arapiles | 5.11b | 9m | |||
3 | Adrenaline Junkie | 5.10d | 12m | |||
4 | Dancing on a Thin Line | 5.10a | 12m | |||
5 | Lichenstein | 5.8 | 12m | |||
6 | Thunder Bay Transit | 5.5 | 12m | |||
7 | ★ Self-obsessed and Sexy | 5.10a | 12m | |||
8 | ★★ TV Dinners | 5.9 | 12m | |||
9 | ★ Gourmet Microwave Food | 5.11a | 12m | |||
10 | ★★★ Binky Earns His Wings | 5.10b | 9m | |||
11 | ★ Binky Right | 5.10a | 9m |
1.13.5. Overhang Wall/No Man's Land 13 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Trad climbing, Top roping and other styles
description
This is the section of wall most directly opposite Karen's Kountry Kitchen. An obvious approach path brings you to the base of "Knobbly Road", and the low cave to the left ends at the start of "Cave Crawler".
There is an easy (class 3 scrambling, no harder than the scrambling along the base) ascent/descent gully at the left end of this wall.
approach
Cross the former railway line, and hike a short distance up the talus.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Dyno Mo | 5.6 | 7m | |||
2 | ★ Little Red Rooster | 5.9 | 7m | |||
3 |
A Question of Balance
Climb blocks and flakes to the roof, which is dodged around its right edge, then left again and up the slab to anchors. | 5.6 | 9m | |||
4 |
★★★ Are Ya Cummin, Or Are Ya Bummin?
Scramble up into the cave and walk to the back. The climb goes up the crack and slab and out the chimney at the top. 2 bolt anchor with rap-rings at top. FFA: Marc Barbeau, Shelagh Hamer & John Carson, 1987 | 5.5 | 9m | |||
5 | ★ Baboons in Heat | 5.9 | 9m | |||
6 | Monkey Meat | 5.10a | 9m | |||
7 |
★★ Saddle Up
Sport route directly to the left of Cave Crawler. | 5.8 | 13m | |||
8 |
★★ Cave Crawler
Climb left and out of the cave starting on conglomerate using the obvious block, then up the face on the sandstone. | 5.7 | 13m, 6 | |||
9 | ★ Crank'n In the Shade | 5.8 | 9m | |||
10 |
★★ Knobbly Road
Follows a thin, broken crack that angles up and rightwards up the face. Protection is thin at the start, with one in-situ piton, then better farther up. | 5.6 | 12m | |||
11 | Unknown | 5.10 | 13m | |||
12 | Dustbuster | 5.10 | 13m | |||
13 | ★★ Trans-Siberian Traverse | 5.7 A2 | 9m |
1.13.6. Long Wall 22 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Sport climbing, Top roping and Trad climbing
Lat / Long: 48.565150, -88.730517
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Manky Little Blade | 5.7 | 14m | |||||
2 | ★★ Hidden Treasures | 5.10c | 14m | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
3 |
★★★ Unfinished Symphony
2 bolts at the bottom then trad. Boulder problem start then easier to the top. Found 2m left of GOJO | 5.11- | 18m, 2 | |||||
4 |
★★★ Go Joe Direct
Start in the crack, but once on the first ledge, move to the left, pull through the roof, then climb the face to the top anchors. | 5.9 | 18m | |||||
5 |
★★ Gojo
Climb the obvious crack with the big dog-leg in it about 3/4 of the way up the wall. FA: Tom Morissey & J. Murphy-Parent, 1982 | 5.7 | 18m | |||||
6 | ★ Snow White | 5.10b | 16m | |||||
7 | ★ Fear of Falling | 5.10a | 20m | |||||
8 | ★★★ Five Miles Out | 5.10- | 18m | |||||
9 | ★★★ Unknown Pleasures | 5.11+ | 12m, 8 | |||||
10 | ★★ Everything Goes Green | 5.10b | 12m, 5 | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
11 | ★★ Chinese Water Torture | 5.11a | 12m, 6 | |||||
12 | Angimima's | 5.9 | 13m | |||||
13 | Boogie Up | 5.4 | 13m | |||||
14 | Jesus' Hairdo | 5.9 | 15m | |||||
15 | 28 and Clear | 5.8 | 13m | |||||
16 |
★★★ Flying Circus
FFA: S. Bent FA: S Hamilton, 1996 | 5.10+ | 13m, 7 | |||||
17 | Procession | 5.8 | 13m | |||||
18 | ★ I Wanna Be Adored | 5.9 | 13m | |||||
19 | ★★ Steeping Beauty | 5.10a | 13m, 7 | |||||
20 |
★★ Wild Child
Climb a corner up to a roof, bypassed on the left with a delicate traverse. | 5.8 | 18m | |||||
21 | ★★ Conan the Barbarian Wears Ballet Shoes | 5.10c | 15m | |||||
22 | ★★ Mikes Project | 5.9 | 17m, 6 |
1.14. Sleeping Giant 23 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Mostly Trad climbing
Lat / Long: 48.317431, -88.920742
summary
Long routes on some of the higher cliffs (250m) in Ontario.
description
There is rock throughout the park -- most of the definition of the "Sleeping Giant" is from a band of cliffs around a raised bluff. The area diagrammed is the most developped area.
access issues
This is in a provincial park, and as of guide publication in 2006, the administration had not decided how rock climbing would fit in with the uses of the park. (Not forbidden, but not an approved activity either.) Avoid doing anything that might jeopardize a favourable decision.
approach
Long. About 8.5km of hiking, though much of it can be ridden on mountain bikes to save time.
where to stay
Camp at the Marie Louise campground. Or rough-camping is allowed along the trails towards the climbing, including fairly close by. (Permits required, pay at iron ranger at parking.)
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | LPH | 5.7 | 25m | |||
2 | Psychic Wars | 5.6 | 50m | |||
3 | I Zimbabwe | 5.7 | 10m | |||
4 | Panty Lines | 5.8 | 10m | |||
5 | No See Um | 5.5 | 10m | |||
6 | Invisible Man | 5.3 | 20m | |||
7 | Dance Macabre | 5.8 | 45m | |||
8 | Whimpy | 5.4 | 15m | |||
9 | Popeye | 5.5 | 15m | |||
10 | Olive Oil | 5.6 | 15m | |||
11 | Brutus | 5.8 | 15m | |||
12 | Sweet Pea | 5.1 | 20m | |||
13 | Visitor Services | 5.10b | 25m | |||
14 | Up and Over Easy | 5.7 A2 | 100m, 3 | |||
15 | Jody's Butterfly | 5.9 | 30m | |||
16 | Discovery | 5.7 III | 130m, 5 | |||
17 | Obscured by Clouds | 5.5 | 20m | |||
18 | Centaurian Travels | 5.9 A1 | 20m | |||
19 | Freak Show | 5.9 A1 | ||||
20 | Yankie Doodle | 5.8 | 15m | |||
21 | Handful of Dust | 5.8 | 15m | |||
22 | Bongs Away | 5.5 | 40m | |||
23 | Partners | 5.6 | 45m |
1.15. Pearl 13 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Mostly Top roping
Lat / Long: 48.704955, -88.629220
description
A small road-cut cliff along highway 11/17.
approach
None.
1.15.1. Pearl 1 11 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Mostly Top roping
description
Main area.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Slab Dancing | 5.9 | 18m | |||||
2 | Smoothy | 5.10 | 18m | |||||
3 | ★★ Dan Loves Brigitte | 5.9 | 18m | |||||
4 | Joey's Route | 5.8 | 18m | |||||
5 | Randy's Route | 5.7 | 18m | |||||
6 | Shaun's Route | 5.8 | 18m | |||||
7 | Ed's Route | 5.8 | 18m | |||||
8 | Honk If You Love Climbers | 5.8 | 18m | |||||
9 | Cars & Trucks Are Annoying | 5.5 | 15m | |||||
10 | Paul's Route | 5.7 | 15m | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
11 |
★★ Across the Universe
Start low on the left of the boulder and traverse to the right and then mantle up. FA: Tyler McNabb & Todd Free, 1997 | V3 | 2m |
1.15.2. Pearl 2 2 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Trad climbing and Top roping
Lat / Long: 48.710028, -88.620774
description
About 900m farther east-bound, and south of the highway is a large cliff behind trees -- bushwhack to this. Lots of development potential, too.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Roadside Attraction | 5.10+ | 22m | |||
2 | Old Bolt Route | 5.8 | 20m |
1.16. Dorion Towers 7 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
All Trad climbing
Lat / Long: 48.788034, -88.631578
description
An area of pinnacle and walls near Ouimet Canyon park. Mostly undevelopped.
approach
--getting there-- Head East from Thunder Bay on the Trans Canada. Turn off and head down Ouimet Canyon Provincial Park Road. Turn onto Valley Road and follow this for approximately 1.6 kms'. Just before "Eagle Canyon Adventures" you will see an un-named road winding up a hill to the left. This is the access road. It is quite steep and rocky (low clearance vehicles beware), especially severe after heavy rain. Drive this winding road uphill till you reach an open gate, park here. Begin walking up the road and past another permanently shut gate. You will arrive at a radio tower station, follow the road behind this to a trail marked by inukshuks/rock cairns.
--to the cliff-- follow the rock piles and flagging tape for approximately 1.1 kms. The trail is obvious but has lots of downed trees. You will emerge at the top of the main cliff with a view of "The Canine". Follow the tape to the gully on your right. There is a fixed line to help you descend (note: this is neither static nor dynamic line, be sure to inspect its quality before weighting it). Once down, scramble through scree and look for blue flagging tape that will lead you to the climbs. enjoy!
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★★ The Canine
Climb the obvious tower. Solid hand and foot jamming. Some large pieces are handy for protecting the start. Make your way to the first ledge. The cracks thin out and the rock becomes more balanced, use light footwork and refrain from pulling on the smaller blocks. There is a nest of webbing with mallions at the top for rappelling. Be sure to inspect these pieces thoroughly before clipping anything into them. | 5.6 | 22m | |||
2 | Planet of the Monkey Girls | 5.5 | 20m | |||
3 | The Cavity | 5.4 | 20m | |||
4 | The Cleft | 5.9 | 20m | |||
5 | The Filling | 5.9 | 20m | |||
6 | Uli's Route | 5.5 | 15m | |||
7 | Mosquito | 5.7 | 16m |
1.17. Outbreak Wall 28 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Trad climbing, Sport climbing and other styles
Lat / Long: 48.785440, -88.695805
summary
2km long cliff band with fantastic variety of sport, mixed and trad lines up to 40m tall. Route development accelerated during the pandemic and is currently ongoing.
description
Up to 40m dolerite, or as the locals call it "diabase", face and crack climbs on excellent rock quality.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★★ Solar Flare | 5.11c | 2 | |||
2 | ★★ Master of Reality | 5.12b/c | ||||
3 | ★★★ Shadow Warrior | 5.10c/d | ||||
4 | Raise the Roof | 5.9 | ||||
5 | Marble Slab | 5.8 | 30m | |||
6 | Quiet Steps | 5.8 | 35m | |||
7 | Rain or Shine | 5.8 | 42m | |||
8 | I Know Kung Fu | |||||
9 | Critical Communication | 5.9 R | ||||
10 | ★★★ Echo Location | 5.12a | 25m | |||
11 |
★★★ Laser Therapy
Offwidth (#5) to bolted climb to finish up a laser cut hand crack corner. | 5.10c | 25m, 4 | |||
12 | Bear or Beaver | 5.10b | 39m | |||
13 | ★★★ Chatty Cathy | 5.11b | ||||
14 | ★ Onyx Corner | 5.10c | ||||
15 | ★★★ Loonie Tunes | 5.13a | 24m | |||
16 |
★★★ Stem Cell
Stem chimney capped by two roofs. | 5.11b | 22m, 3 | |||
17 | ★★★ Silent Screamer | 5.12d | 35m | |||
18 | ★★ Mozzy Madness | 5.12b | 25m | |||
19 | ★★ Cavers Climb | 5.9 | 35m | |||
20 | Tenacity | 5.10c | 25m, 1 | |||
21 | ★ Fish Out of Water | 5.10a | 22m | |||
22 | ★★ Green Machine | 5.9 | 25m | |||
23 | ★★★ Lockdown | 5.11b/c | 1 | |||
24 | ★★★ Wawaweewa | 5.11d | 34m | |||
25 | ★★★ Precious Patina | 5.12c | 33m, 15 | |||
26 |
★★★ Flying Squirrel
Glorious finger crack to pumpy jugs | 5.11a | 35m | |||
27 |
Wild Fire
Mixed climb, many bolts | 5.10c | 32m | |||
28 |
Mango Tango
Three bolts to a stellar finger crack. | 5.11b | 20m |
1.18. Claghorn 57 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Trad climbing, Sport climbing and other styles
Lat / Long: 48.914094, -88.558626
description
A long wall of good rock, with good height. Lots of development potential.
1.18.1. Northern Limit Wall 2 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
All Top roping
Lat / Long: 48.925945, -88.562096
description
Northernmost section, north of the boulders at the left end of the Outward Bound area.
Routes listed right-to-left.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★★ Pushing the Limit | 5.10 | 28m | |||
2 | Horny Finger | 5.9 | 20m |
1.18.2. Outward Bound Area 14 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Mostly Trad climbing
Lat / Long: 48.922240, -88.561629
description
Routes listed right-to-left as they would be encountered when hiking in from the parking area.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Flakey | 5.8 | ||||
2 | Jacob's Ladder | 5.4 | ||||
3 | Cracks of Dawn | 5.4 | ||||
4 | Gendarme | 5.7 | ||||
5 | ★ Solstice | 5.5 | ||||
6 | ★★★ Shakleton | 5.7 | ||||
7 | Faith | 5.8 | ||||
8 | Fairdinkem | 5.5 | ||||
9 | Bridge of Sighs | 5.9 | ||||
10 | La Connection Francaise | 5.7 | ||||
11 | Ten | 5.8 | ||||
12 | Raccoon | 5.8 | ||||
13 | ★★★ Fatman | 5.6 | ||||
14 |
★★★ Smash That Cherry Twist
Climb the prominent arete as seen from start of boulder field trail to Outward Bound area. Stay to right of arete for the most part. Climb to face of and top of pillar finishing up and over short head wall. | 5.10a | 26m, 10 |
1.18.3. Claghorn Long Wall 41 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Trad climbing, Sport climbing and Aid climbing
Lat / Long: 48.909171, -88.557415
description
This is the km+ long wall that is obvious off to the east at km 7 along Black Sturgeon Road.
Routes are listed left-to-right (different from the other sections).
A collection of some of the best single pitch climbing in the region. Mostly hard sort route with a wide variety of trad and mixed lines. Still plenty of room for future development.
approach
Long Wall Right/Left: Park on the side of the road at the trail head marked by flagging tape. Head towards the cliff on the well marked trail. In early spring bring some rubber boots.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★★★ TVs and Torsos | 5.10 | 40m | |||
2 | ★★ What's In Your Head | A3 | 30m | |||
3 | Shuffleupagus | 5.8 | 20m | |||
4 | ★ Deception | 5.9 | 30m | |||
5 | Limited Time Offer | 5.9 A1 | ||||
6 | Thanksgiving Route | |||||
7 |
★★★ CNN
Short for Climb Not Named. One of the best splitter hand cracks around. | 5.10a | 30m | |||
8 |
Getting Stung
First pitch has some loose rock but second pitch is $ | 5.8 | 2 | |||
9 | Wasserboxer | 5.9 A1 | 30m | |||
10 |
Maltese Sandwhiches
First bolted line climbers left at the gully | 5.10b/c | ||||
11 | The Beginning | 5.12a | ||||
12 | Deez Nuts | 5.10c | 2 | |||
13 | Gift of the trees | 5.12d | ||||
14 | The Negotiator | 5.11a | ||||
15 |
Finlandia
Set: Nick Rochacewich | 5.13a | ||||
16 | A perfect uneven pair | 5.10b | 5 | |||
17 | Ninja Assassin | 5.12d | ||||
18 |
Hollow like a bamboo
Missing bolt R/X | 5.12b | ||||
19 | The Drifter | 5.12a | ||||
20 |
Grade School
Climb first 4 bolts of The Drifter and break right to crack | 5.9 | 4 | |||
21 | The Claghorn | 5.11c | ||||
22 | The Dirty Kowala | 5.11d | ||||
23 |
The Alberta Ride
Set: Nick Rochacewich | 5.10a | ||||
24 | Muscular Teenage boys take of their wetsuit and reveal the full package | 5.11d | 6 | |||
25 |
Fraggle Rock
Hand to offwidth crack | 5.9 | ||||
26 |
Farewell to Arms
Set: Nick Rochacewich | 5.13a | 11 | |||
27 |
Quiet Earth
Mixedl gear to 0.75 | 5.12d | 6 | |||
28 | Craft of the Dessert Warrior | 5.9 | ||||
29 |
Jack Layton Memorial Route
Slap your way up the free standing pillar. If you're under 5'10 the crux in harder. Set: Nick Rochacewich | 5.12d | ||||
30 |
Cry of the Snow Lion
Unsure where start is or how many bolts | 5.12a | 2 | |||
31 | All Dressed | 5.10a | 28m | |||
32 |
★★★ Titanium Tiger
Begin up hand crack pulling the small roof, and then continue up hand crack to where it blanks out. Traverse right on good footholds to reach the next crack system. Continue up the tight hand crack to a stance then pull through good holds with small gear to bring you to the top. Rappel back down from the bolted anchors 0.3-0.5, x3-4 0.75, x2 #1-#3, #4 C4, 6-8 alpine draws FA: Brent Clark, 3 Aug 2019 | 5.10a | 28m | |||
33 |
★★ General Anesthesia
Found in the corner left of Time Dilation (Between All Dressed and Tips crack). Begin by standing on pedestal and start up finger/tight hand crack pulling small roof to gain a good stance. Some ‘technical’ gear placements get you through the flaring section to a hand crack. Pull the bulge and then the off-width chimney action begins. Rappel down route (30 meters) 0.3-0.75, extra 0.5, #2, 3x #3, #4, 2x #5 FA: Brent Clark, 23 Aug 2020 | 5.10a | 30m | |||
34 |
★★★ Time Dilation
This beautiful corner can be found between All Dressed and Tips Crack. Start up corner utilizing small crack and jugs to gain a large ledge at base of the corner. Continue up left facing corner with great movement utilizing the odd foot chips on the face and arete. (30 meters) Anchors on the face or pull the lip and rappel down General Anesthesia (Climbers left) Double rack #0.3 to 0.75, #1, #2. Load up on extra 0.5 FFA: Brent Clark, 15 Jul 2020 | 5.11a | 30m | |||
35 |
★★★ Tips Crack
Two bolts to gain a ledge then climb the splitter tips crack to the anchor | 5.12a | 18m | |||
36 |
Vision Quest
Double crack system left of 'Nothing Shocking' | 5.10c | ||||
37 | ★★★ Nothing Shocking | 5.10 | 24m | |||
38 |
★ Ace of Swords
Gear to #4 C4 | 5.9 | 23m | |||
39 | Finger Lickin' Good | 5.12a | ||||
40 | ★★ Returning | 5.8 | 22m | |||
41 |
Training Wheels
A little dirty, a little loose at the top. Around the corner from Finger Lickin' | 5.7 |
1.19. Chipmunk Rock 4 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Top roping and Trad climbing
description
A small (10m wide and about 20-25m tall) slab that is about a km farther north along highway 11 from "Mt. Helen".
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Traverse, eh! | 5.9 | 25m | |||
2 | Highway Pancake | 5.8 | 20m | |||
3 | For the Girls | 5.9 | 25m | |||
4 | Horizontal Release | 5.9 | 20m |
1.20. Mt. Helen 12 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Mostly Trad climbing
Lat / Long: 49.042006, -88.251503
description
Mt. Helen is a 70m tall gneiss slab just off highway 11 about 2km north of where highway 11 and 17 split (the split is just east of Nipigon).
Mt Helen offers good beginner to intermediate multi-pitch climbing on generally solid rock, with a mix of trad and sport.
The cliff is generally fairly easy to spot from the highway -- the vertical white streaks of the cleaned upper routes are visible and characteristic.
approach
Park on the side of highway 11, pulling as far off as you can -- lots of trucks pass along this section, often travelling quite quickly. Alternatively you can park across from St Sylvesters church about 600 meters before the cliff itself
Look for the fairly obvious, usually flagged, trail heading up. This climbs up a short (50m) way to the base of the cliff, arriving at the start of "Bowels in Transit".
descent notes
"Bowels in Transit" and "Overdrive" can both be rappelled in two rappels on a single 60m (or longer) rope.
Or there may be a trail down (skiers) right from the top of the bluff.
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
All three of "The Upper Dike", "Bowels in Transit", and "Traverse Mercator" start at the left-most point on the wall, where the access trail reaches the obvious flat spot and start of climbing. Each heads a different direction from this point - up-left, straight up, and up-right respectively. | ||||||||
2 |
★ The Upper Dike
Start at the lower left portion of the cliff, climb diagonally up and left along the obvious crack towards the start of the large dike running diagonally up and rightwards across the face. Do the rising traverse along the dike, until reaching the overhangs at the right end, then turn left again and climb to the trees. Belay on gear where convenient -- breaking into two or three pitches depending on rope drag. | 5.4 | 90m, 2 | |||||
3 |
★★ Bowels in Transit
On the left side of the wall, look for the left-most white streak and bolts on the slab above below this white streak. Climb directly up, supplementing bolts with gear. Has ring-bolted anchor for belay and top. Pitch 1: (5.7, 29m). Climb up face past 2 bolts, over a depression, then past another bolt to the anchors. Pitch 2: (5.7, 22m). Continue up past the flake onto the face (bolts and gear) to the top anchors. | 5.7 | 51m, 2, 3 | |||||
4 |
Traverse Mercator
Start on the lower left, traverse the smooth face staying below the dike of "The Upper Dike". There are occasional bolts, but also long runouts. | 40m | ||||||
5 |
★ Amstel
This route goes up the once-cleaned, but now re-lichening face right of "Bowels in Transit". Starts up some initial steep terrain to the slabs above. | 5.9 | 50m, 2, 2 | |||||
6 |
★ The Dutch Overhang
Starts below the overhang with a few steep moves on positive holds to a bolt, then through lichen to another bolt. Either lower-off at this point, or go up to the first anchors of "This is Indian Land". | 5.10a R | 40m, 2 | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
7 |
★★★ This is Indian Land
As you come around to the climbs that start under the overhang, this is the first clear ramp, rising upwards to the right, with bolts on it, coming to a nearly vertical section of the roof. Pitch 1: (5.7+, 5 bolts, 35m) climb up through the overhang and up the slab to anchors. Pitch 2: (5.7, 3 bolts, 35m). Continue up the slab above to the top. May want some gear to supplement bolts on the upper face. Pitch 2: | 5.7 | 70m, 2, 5 | |||||
8 |
★★ Freitag's Dilemma
Starts farther to the right than "This is Indian Land", but similar -- though the roof is trickier to pull. Finish at either the first belay for "This is Indian Land" or the belay at the start of "Overdrive". Then, choose a 2nd pitch... | 5.9 | 40m | |||||
9 |
★ The Standard Route
Start around the corner to the far right, bypassing the overhang by climbing up to it and going right around it, then up a bit, then back left to step up onto the upper face (bolt), then trend diagonally up and left along the ledge/crack system. Stop at a belay for any of the upper pitch choices: "Ode to Rambo", "Overdrive", or "Neutron Dance". ("Overdrive" probably the best choice., about 40m to the "Overdrive" anchors.) | 5.4 | 40m, 3 | |||||
10 |
Slab and Shake
Climb the low-angle dirty slab on the far right of the cliffs for 40m, then go up the overhang. | 5.8 | 60m, 2 | |||||
The following three routes all start part way up the cliff. The first two can easily be accessed by climbing either "The Upper Dike", "The Standard Route", or "Freitag's Dilemma", while "Neutron Dance" can really only be accessed from "The Standard Route". | ||||||||
12 |
Ode to Rambo
From the right-bolted belay (start of "Overdrive") follow the weakness trending up and left across the upper pitches of "This is Indian Land" and "Amstel" to finish at the top anchors of "Bowels in Transit". | 5.6 R | 30m | |||||
13 |
★ Overdrive
From the bolted belay (fat hangars, suitable for lowering), climb up the obvious scrubbed rock above, supplementing the 3 bolts with gear. | 5.7 | 25m, 3 | |||||
14 |
★ Neutron Dance
From a poor belay (optional) on "Standard Route", climb up the face above to easier terrain. Supplement the 3 bolts with gear as desired. | 5.8 | 25m, 3 |
1.21. Orient Bay 42 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Trad climbing, Sport climbing and Aid climbing
Lat / Long: 49.338546, -88.120825
description
Same rock area as the ice climbing -- a corridor lined with dozens of high diabase walls. Lots of great climbs, and a lifetime worth of development.
(map location approximate)
access issues
On crown land reserved for recreational use -- as far as access goes, this is about as good as it gets.
1.21.1. Taj Mah Wall 11 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Mostly Trad climbing
Lat / Long: 49.320309, -88.113704
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★★ Qu'est-ce Que Fuck / Ques que fuck?
There is an optional, not recommended, A1 20m 2nd pitch. | 5.10 | 30m | |||||
2 | ★★ Funner Than Bubblegum | 5.8 R | 40m, 2 | |||||
3 |
★★★ Survival Streak
P1: 18m, sport, 511b P2: 30m, mixed (bolts & gear), 5.11c. | 5.11c | 48m, 2, 6 | |||||
4 | ★ Slim Pickin's | 5.9 | 13m | |||||
5 |
★★★ Rock,Paper, Scissors
P1: 5.8, 20m P2: A2, 35m P3: 5.5, 15m | 5.8 A2 | 75m, 3 | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
6 |
★★★ Temple of Zeus
P1: 5.10d, 45m P2: 5.10a, 20m P3: 5.8, 30m Gear to #5, bring a few extra #3 for P1 FA: Jody Bernst & Randy Reed | 5.10d | 95m, 3 | |||||
7 |
★★ Black Rain
FA: Randy Reed, J. Bernst, S Charlton & R Treneer, 1998 | 5.11a | 35m, 11 | |||||
8 |
★★★ Titon Crack
P1: 5.9, 40m P2: 5.10c, 30m P3: 5.5 30m (or straight up, 5.8 slab, 25m) | 5.9 | 100m, 3 | |||||
9 |
Seven Wonders of the Ancient World
Pitch 1 on a 100m wall. | 5.10 A1 | 30m | |||||
10 |
★★★ The Collossus
P1: 5.10b, 35m P2: 5.11a, 40m | 5.11a | 75m, 2 | |||||
11 |
Greased Lichen
Not recommended. | 5.8 | 20m |
1.21.2. Da' Projects 9 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Trad climbing and Sport climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★ Jump'n You In
FFA: T. Kenopic & R. Reed FA: T Kenopic | 5.10- | 20m | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
2 |
★★★ Jimmy Got Gat
At the left end of the main wall is a steep corner. Climb up the corner past bolts. Interesting moves and body positions. FFA: Randy Reed & Todd Free | 5.10c | 18m, 6 | |||||
3 | Ghetto Bird | 5.8 | 18m | |||||
4 |
★★ Prison Sex
Most of this route is now gone as a result of rock fall. To the right of Jimmy Got Gat. Up the the slightly overhanging face past thin crimps and a sloper. Is a ice climb in the winter so it can be wet anytime during the summer. FA: Todd Free, Dallas Markall & Randy Reed, 1997 | 5.12 | 20m, 6 | |||||
5 | ★★ Fire in Me Eye | 5.10c | 20m | |||||
6 | Bad Crack Habit | 5.9 | 30m | |||||
7 |
★★ Just Another Drive By
FA: R. Reed, J. Bernst & J. Simms, 1998 FFA: J Bernst, 1999 | 5.11c | 24m, 10 | |||||
8 | ★★ Gang Wars | 5.8 | 26m, 5 | |||||
9 | Captain Chronic Tokes Again | 5.10c | 15m |
1.21.3. The Doughnut Wall 1 route in Cliff
- Summary:
-
All Trad climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | My Blueberry Fritter | 5.9 | 15m, 2 |
1.21.4. The Schoolhouse 3 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Sport climbing and Trad climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★★ Getting Schooled
P1: 5.11c, 40m P2: 5.11b, 20m | 5.11c | 60m, 2 | |||
2 | Graduation Day | |||||
3 |
★★★ Expulsion
P1: 5.10c P2: project | 5.10c | 40m |
1.21.5. Big Rig Wall 1 route in Cliff
- Summary:
-
All Trad climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Planes, Trains, and Automobiles | 5.7 | 75m, 4 |
1.21.6. Mount Olympus 9 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Trad climbing and Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 49.326729, -88.117364
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | The Mistress | 5.10c | 25m | |||
2 | ★★★ Thursday Night Whore | 5.8 | 25m | |||
3 | The Third Head of Cerberus | 5.10 | 40m, 2 | |||
4 |
The Landmark
NA: Jody Bernst & Steve Charlton, 2006 NA: Jen Olson, 2013 FA: Charlton Kyu, Byung Kyu & Peter Song, 2021 FFA: Dustin JJ, 2022 | 5.12a | 90m, 4 | |||
5 | Passage to Valhalla | 5.12 | 90m, 3 | |||
6 |
★★★ Clash of the Titans
P1: 5.11, 40m P2: 5.8, 30m | 5.11a | 70m, 2 | |||
7 | Off-width Crack | |||||
8 | Sport Climb | |||||
9 |
New Route
(Or 5.8 A1) | 5.10 | 45m |
1.21.7. Reflection Wall 2 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
All Trad climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★ Search and Rescue | 5.7 | 27m | |||
2 | Don't Go There | 5.7 | 25m |
1.21.8. The Tongue/Spy Wall 2 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
All Trad climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Double Agent
FFA: J Hammerich & Andrew Abbink | 5.8 | 35m | |||
2 | ★★ On the Run With Bin Laden | 5.9 | 2 |
1.21.9. Mahkwa Buttress 4 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
All Trad climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Split Tips | 5.10a | 20m | |||
2 | Antifreeze | 5.10c | 15m | |||
3 | Obsidian Oblivion | 5.11a | 20m | |||
4 | Bonsai | 5.7 | 20m |
1.22. Kama Bay 3 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Trad climbing and Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 49.020133, -88.006692
description
This is the massive western exposure of the Kama Hills, a well known ice climbing area being explored for rock climbing.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★★ Pineapple Express | 5.9 X | 90m, 3 | |||
2 | ★★ Cracktastic | 5.10b | 45m, 2 | |||
3 | ★★ Whiskey on the Rocks | 5.11a | 30m, 13 |
1.23. Neys Provincial Park 1 route in Cliff
- Summary:
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All Trad climbing
Lat / Long: 48.804642, -86.633213
description
Cliffs along the west side of the Little Pic river just west of Neys Provincial Park, and north of highway 17.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Prisoner of War | 5.8 | 100m, 3 |