Ascents in 广西 Guangxi

1st pitch was wet and dirty after a week of rain but otherwise excellent multipitch experience. Lost way and couldn't find bolts from 4th bolt on fourth pitch.

Touted as the best multipitch in Yangshuo! First pitch was quite polished and not the best...I took a wrong turn setting off on P3 and accidentally climbed up the first pitch of 'Happy Jun Jun' , rapped back when I realised and then set off up the correct pitch. P3 was face climbing on sharp limestone formations. Cat A had a battle with P4. P5 was legit crack climbing on limestone, with the crack starting as fist jam, and becoming off-width. We skipped the short P6 to the summit , which requires slings to protect.

For the descent we made to it to the ground in 2 rappels from the top of P4, using an 80m rope.

when u wanna do a nice easy multi for your last day in yangshuo, but you get sandbagged ¯_(ツ)_/¯

Double check the topo before P3 or you may find yourself going up a 5.11c instead like we did. Don't bother with P6 - it's sharp, rubbish, the "summit" is sharp & uncomfortable, and the views are better lower down. If you really want to do it, don't link it with P5 unless you're very confident your second can get through the crack - if they fall there are no holds to pull up on and you won't be able to hear each other!

Linked pitches 2&3, which was a bad idea because both ends are hanging belays on the painful rock, and 5&6.

Was expecting the crux to be gr19 face climbing not 19 crack climbing which is a taller order for me! Tried to offwidth it, fell out, then spotted a crucial face foothold. Still required one fist jam move! The other pitches were better than expected, with cool bottomless corners and generally quite consistently exposed.

Slow to get down with a 60m as we couldn’t link any raps. The top out is definitely worth it, 360 views!

哈哈，爬错了一段，也就log吧

第一次实战结组，操作不是很熟练，攀爬的又是新路线，花的时间比较长。克服了一些对暴露感的恐惧。最后，在黑夜中下降，生怕错过了保护站。希望下次能更顺利。（感谢水哥靠谱的带领以及大明无畏的领攀）

Super easy multipitch with a topout, swinging leads. P1 and P5 were fairly interesting, with P2, P3 and P4 more like vertical walking. The belay stance at top of P4 is a hanging belay and there's a touch of exposure as you set off on P5, but its well protected, and easily 5.8.

Some of the pitches are so long and wandering, you really can't hear each others calls. So make sure you've got nonverbal communication dialled.

Total time up: 2hr. Total time for round trip: 3hr15min. With plenty of photos taken and exploring the topout.

For the descent, the guidebook recommends a 10m rappel from the top to the main rap station, and then either two short rappels (<30m) or using two ropes a long rappel (~60m) to a "wall", and then either walk through the cave (35m rap) or stay on the same side (30m rap).

We found the main rappel station had been left with two 60m ropes joined together by flat overhand, and the bolt hangers on this station were pretty corroded. Not knowing the origin of these ropes, or liking the look of the bolt hangers, we didn't use them. With our 80m rope, we reached the mid-rap anchor from the top, and then rapped to the "wall". We then walked through the cave and did the 35m rap to the ground.

Got smashed by rain 20mins into the route. Sat in a cave and watched Borat. Then scootered home in the rain for a gym session

垂降到懸岩保護站，落繩時卡繩，沒帶繩刀，另外一頭剛好夠長，單繩下到Via Ferrata的地方，穿過山洞轉單繩下降... 連假最後一天來不及在爬一次，繩子跟主鎖留在上面等其他大佬去拿了... 感受到陽朔的溫暖...

Rappelling down to the cliffside station, my rope got jammed while falling the rope. I had forgotten to bring the knife. Luckily, the other end of the rope was long enough to reach the Via Ferrata, where I went through a cave and continued my descent on a single rope. Unfortunately, it was the last day of the holiday and I didn't have enough time to climb up again. I had to leave my rope and carabiner there, waiting for other experts to retrieve them. Nonetheless, I felt the warmth of Yangshuo.

Damn that was a fight! Was on the wall for such a long time, always just resting for a long time then climbing real fast over one section, then resting again... Always beeing afraid of what's to come until I realised that I was clipping the chain. Great way to start the trip!

Awesome route. Techy crux. Came within 2m of getting the 8b extension. Both are amazing

Ah man that boulder in Papercut is heinous... Felt harder then the top part of this one...

Cool steep climbing on big holds. Had no gas left for the 8a extension after 6days on rock

Ultra awesome route. Great moves on great open hand sloppy holds. Very pumpy. Go close to 35m. Put the draws up as I went

This is confusingly entered in the new guide, but Da Bao Yu and Sleight Of Hand are two new 'lines,' that could be combined into one long line. Da Bao Yu is the line that Andrew Hedesh et al did up the pocketed head wall, left of Power Of One. Sleight Of Hand is Duncan Brown et al's route, just left of Pickpocket.

This ascent is for the (likely 12c or so) Da Bao Yu.

Good climb. The access wasn't that easy though... Quite the struggle

Just one tricky section... Hopefully the extension will go

Great route. Bouldery crux

Really cool steep route up to the middle of the arch. Long moves on bomber holds