Ascents in Dalmacija

Some loose rock in the route

There is still quite a bit of loose rock

1 try, fell right at the anchor. It wasn't obvious to me at all how to clip the chain and it took me several attempts to find a beta (and the holds). Knowing the beta and where the holds are, the grade is probably about right. Nice route

2nd try. Really nice, the crux is a traverse in an almost 90° overhang on tufas which was not too hard once I had found the beta and the kneebar (long trousers or kneepad for the left leg will make the kneebar much less painful than it was for me). Clipping the chain also took some attempts, but it's not so hard if you put your feet in the right places. Before the traverse, there is some nice and easy vertical climbing, however there's still some loose rock.

The fixed quickdraw can only be opened and closed with a considerable amount of force, avoid it if possible or use only when going down again to make collecting the quickdraws in the lower part easier.

Nice 7a climbing on tufas up to the third bolt before the chain. Then there is a short overhanging boulder of about 2 metres with really small sidepulls before you get to some jugs. The boulder looked really hard to me and I decided it would probably take too long to find a beta, I'm not sure I could even climb it. After the jugs, you're almost at the anchor but clipping the anchor is quite hard. I didn't really try the last move anymore as I had already decided not to climb the route again, but I think clipping the chain would probably have been possible if had tried for a few minutes. I can't say if 7c is the correct grade, it depends on whether there is a nice solution to the boulder problem.

Hammer Aussicht

Really nice endurance climbing on tufas, I was really pumped by the time I reached the anchor. At the third bolt, there's also a short boulder problem.

2 tries, maybe I would have liked it better if had figured out the initial boulder crux. Very inhomogeneous: the crux is a boulder problem right at the beginning which involves holding a really sharp sidepull crimp (at least I couldn't see how to avoid it) which hurts quite a bit. Then you get some good holds before another series of weird moves gets you to the 4th bolt. Then, there is some 6a+ climbing until you get to a second harder part in an overhang much higher in the route which starts with a very awkward clip and then one relatively far move to the right. This part is maybe 7a. Then it's again something like 6a+ to the chain.