Grade | Route | Gear style | Crag | Quality | Date | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
6a |
★★ Caibalismo Vaginal (Caibalismo vaginal P1)
- with
Edi, lilami
1
6a
20
| 20m | Caimari | ★★★ Mega Classic | Tue 25th Sep 2018 | |||
7- |
★★★ Junge Füchsin
- with
Edi
| 220m, 14 | Hohe Wand | ★★★ Mega Classic | Thu 13th Jul 2017 | |||
Pitch 3: Rested twice;
Pitch 6: Rested once
|
||||||||
7- |
★★ De Oide Wurzn
- with
Edi
| 220m, 12 | Höllental | ★★★ Classic | Sat 21st Oct 2017 | |||
Die 2te SL als etwas schwerer empfunden.
In der 4ten SL bei der Crux reingesetzt und etwas rumgetüftelt.
Die letzte SL ist eigentlich nur noch Gehgelände.
|
||||||||
7- |
★★★ Via Helma
- with
Edi
| 180m | Höllental | ★★★ Classic | Sun 22nd Apr 2018 | |||
In der Schlüssel-SL etwas verklettert und ws. über "Wet Dog Boys" in den Hangel eingestiegen. Habe den Riss in der letzten SL nochmal sehr schwer gefunden.
|
||||||||
6- |
★★★ Weichtal Wichtel (Weichtalwichtel Linkup Wachthüttelnord SL 3)
- with
Edi
| 60m | Höllental | ★★ Very Good | Sun 6th May 2018 | |||
6- A0 |
★★★ Brüderlein Fein
- with
Jokep
| 180m, 12 | Höllental | ★★★ Classic | Wed 7th Jun 2017 | |||
Had to do the crux move A0 (rest of the pitch was probably 6-). Crux move felt much harder than 6.
|
||||||||
6 |
★★★ Betty & Paul
- with
lilami
| 190m, 11 | Hohe Wand | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 11th Jun 2017 | |||
6 |
★★★ Mit göttlicher Hand
- with
Edi
| 170m, 8 | Preinerwand | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 23rd Sep 2017 | |||
In der zweiten und der siebten SL jeweils einen Hänger gehabt.
|
||||||||
6 |
★★ Goldmuffel
- with
lilami
| 240m | Mixnitz | ★★ Very Good | Sat 1st Jan 2022 | |||
6 |
★ Sonnenplattenweg
- with
Edi
| 300m, 8 | Großofen | ★ Good | Wed 18th May 2022 | |||
6 |
★★ Neuer BG Steig
- with
lilami
| 260m, 11 | Hohe Wand | ★ Good | Sat 14th Oct 2017 | |||
5a | Herbstzeitlose - with lilami | 90m, 10 | Nockberge | Average | Sun 14th Jul 2019 | |||
Griffausbruch in 2ter SL.
|
||||||||
5+ | ★★ Die Eleganz im Meerschweinchentanz - with lilami | 42m, 10 | Hohe Wand | Average | Fri 20th Jul 2018 | |||
5 |
★★ Wachthüttelnord (Wachthüttelnord Linkup Weichtalwichtel pitch 6)
- with
Edi
| 75m, 3 | Höllental | ★★★ Classic | Sun 6th May 2018 | |||
5 |
★★ Wachthüttelnord
- with
lilami
| 110m, 3 | Höllental | ★★★ Classic | Tue 15th Aug 2017 | |||
Nach der zweiten SL abgeseilt.
|
||||||||
5 |
★★ Gaisbauer-Jug-Weg
- with
lilami
| 170m, 9 | Höllental | ★★ Very Good | Sat 19th Jun 2021 | |||
SL. 3 und 4 zusammengelegt. Der Stand zwischen der dritten und vierten SL wie hier beschrieben gehört eigentlich zur "Nix für Suderer".
|
||||||||
6b+ ~6b | ★★★ Clarksville - with Edi, lilami, Steph W., VMS | 15m | Gozo | ★★★ Classic | Wed 9th Mar 2022 | |||
6b+ ~6b | ★ Alsace - with lilami | 18m | Kalymnos | ★ Good | Tue 11th Apr 2023 | |||
Nice homogenous mid section. Very sharp rock.
|
||||||||
6b+ | ★ Iason - with lilami | 20m | Kalymnos | ★★ Very Good | Mon 17th Apr 2023 | |||
A tricky crux at the second bolt and a very sustained upper third. Unfortunately, the bolts are already quite rusty which felt a bit sketchy and really motivates you not to fall!
|
||||||||
5c |
Rinocephale P1
- with
lilami
1
5c
27m
| 27m, 17 | Orpierre | Average | Sat 20th May 2023 | |||
Polished but still ok. Nothing special.
|
||||||||
6b+ ~6b | ★★ KalyNikhla - with lilami, Steph W., Edi, VMS | 25m, 9 | Kalymnos | ★★★ Classic | Thu 18th Apr 2024 | |||
Pure joy! Friendly bolting and very nice climbing on good holds and footholds.
|
||||||||
6- 7 | ★★★ Mit oder Ohne - with Edi, lilami | 14m | Dürnstein | ★★ Very Good | Sat 26th Aug 2017 | |||
Variante "Mit" geklettert. Unten schön, dann hört die Route plötzlich auf, ohne top... sehr komisch. Bin dann leichter (4) zum Gipfel des Däumling weiter. Viel Seilreibung.
|
||||||||
7 | ★★ Gruselkabinett - with Edi, lilami, mbguentert | 18m, 10 | Thalhofergrat | ★★ Very Good | Sat 27th Apr 2019 | |||
7 | ★ Papa Bum - with VMS, lilami, Steph W. | 12m, 7 | Lindkogel | ★ Good | Sun 13th Feb 2022 | |||
Bouldery start with crux in the first few meters. The rest of the route is significantly easier.
|
||||||||
6b | ★★ Life of William - with lilami, Edi, VMS, Steph W. | 20m | Malta | ★★ Very Good | Sun 6th Mar 2022 | |||
6b ~6a+ | ★★ Alma - with Edi, kangucrag, lilami | 25m | Siurana | ★★ Very Good | Mon 31st Oct 2022 | |||
6b Easy | ★★ Gongolo - with lilami | 18m | Kalymnos | ★★ Very Good | Fri 7th Apr 2023 | |||
6b ~5c+ | ★★★ Pornogeros - with lilami | 35m, 17 | Kalymnos | ★★★ Classic | Mon 10th Apr 2023 | |||
6b | ★★★ Polar Star - with lilami | 28m | Kalymnos | ★★★ Classic | Wed 12th Apr 2023 | |||
A very homogenous and sustained climb on very sharp rock.
|
||||||||
6b Easy | ★★ Carpe Diem - with lilami, Edi, Dennis S. | 16m, 8 | Kalymnos | ★★★ Mega Classic | Wed 19th Apr 2023 | |||
An awesome tufa all the way up, great!
|
||||||||
6b | ★★ Coup De Blues Pour Petit Dom - with lilami | 20m | Céüse | ★★★ Mega Classic | Thu 1st Jun 2023 | |||
An awesome route! Big and powerful moves along big pockets and a strenuous layback with a thank-god-jug at the end.
I was at the end of my strength and grinning my ears off at the top.
|
||||||||
6a+ ~6a |
★ Spaßpartour P1
- with
Edi, lilami, Steph W., VMS
1
6a+
30
| 30m | Kalymnos | ★ Good | Fri 19th Apr 2024 | |||
6b ~6a+ | ★★ Poka - with lilami | 40m, 15 | Kalymnos | ★★★ Classic | Thu 25th Apr 2024 | |||
Very nice, enjoyable and homogeneous!
At first, a more technical section through the orange wall, then constant climbing on pockets. If you are not pulling on a pocket, you have not looked hard enough!
|
||||||||
5A | Tigger - with lilami | 6m | Steinerner Stadl | Average | Sun 15th Oct 2017 | |||
6a 6a+ | ★★ Catalina Cisna - with Edi, lilami | 20m | Sa Mola de Felanitx | ★★★ Classic | Fri 28th Sep 2018 | |||
Low in the grade. Not harder than 6a.
|
||||||||
7- | ★★ Meister - with lilami | 16m, 7 | Thalhofergrat | ★★ Very Good | Fri 22nd Mar 2019 | |||
7- | ★★ Thalitastisch - with Edi, lilami | 35m, 14 | Thalhofergrat | ★★★ Classic | Sun 24th Nov 2019 | |||
7- | ★★ Osterbraten - with Edi, lilami | 23m, 11 | Thalhofergrat | ★★ Very Good | Sun 24th Nov 2019 | |||
6a+ | ★★★ Forest Gump - with Edi, lilami | Maltatal | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 22nd Aug 2021 | ||||
6a+ | ★ Open Your Arse - with lilami, Edi, VMS, Steph W. | 10m | Malta | ★ Good | Sun 6th Mar 2022 | |||
6a+ | ★★★ Stavrovski - with Edi, Steph W., lilami, VMS | 19m, 11 | Malta | ★★★ Classic | Mon 7th Mar 2022 | |||
Endurance route, rather pumpy. All the flakes held, but I would be lying if I said that I didn’t expect one or two holds to blow XD. Luckily everything held, but climb with care. Awesome route nonetheless.
|
||||||||
6a+ ~6a | ★ Bronti-Supersaurier - with lilami | Kanzianiberg | ★ Good | Mon 6th Jun 2022 | ||||
Some holds in the easier part of the route are polished. In the harder parts of the route, all holds are fine.
|
||||||||
6a+ | ★★ white shark - with Edi, kangucrag, lilami | Vilanova de Prades | ★★ Very Good | Sat 29th Oct 2022 | ||||
6a+ ~6a | ★★ Arnau - with Edi, kangucrag, lilami | 25m | Siurana | ★★ Very Good | Mon 31st Oct 2022 | |||
6a+ Easy | ★★ Sapfo - with lilami | 22m, 10 | Kalymnos | ★★ Very Good | Tue 11th Apr 2023 | |||
The move up to/over the last bolt is hard.
|
||||||||
6a+ ~6a | ★★ Stay out - with lilami | 15m, 7 | Valle del Sarca | ★★ Very Good | Sat 6th May 2023 | |||
A very nice, but powerful crack/dihedral. Slightly polished, but still enjoyable.
|
||||||||
6a+ | ★ Andropose - with lilami | 20m | Buis-les-Baronnies | ★ Good | Wed 24th May 2023 | |||
6a+ according to the guidebook, but 6a seems right. Very good slab climbing, sadly not long enough.
|
||||||||
6a+ Easy | ★★ Couilles de loups - with lilami | 20m, 11 | Céüse | ★★ Very Good | Fri 2nd Jun 2023 | |||
Nice climbing, easy for the grade. The difficulties are in the more technical upper part. It’s hard to clip the chains. The last few meters can suffer from seepage.
|
||||||||
6a+ ~6a | ★ ermione - with lilami, Edi, Steph W., VMS | 20m, 6 | Valle Orco | ★ Good | Tue 6th Jun 2023 | |||
The arête is very nice.
For the top part, there are two possibilities:
|
||||||||
6a+ | ★★ The Fight of a Woman - with lilami | 40m, 16 | Kalymnos | ★★★ Mega Classic | Thu 25th Apr 2024 | |||
Absolutely awesome climb, so enjoyable!
Nice moves on good holds, sustained and long. The crux at the third bolt might be harder for shorter climbers.
|
||||||||
6a | ★★ The missing link - with Edi, Steph W., lilami, VMS | 18m | Malta | ★ Good | Mon 7th Mar 2022 | |||
The crux is between the second and the third bolt. The rest of the route is easier but offers very nice climbing.
|
||||||||
6a ~5b | ★★ Vigilante - with lilami, Edi, Steph W., VMS | 18m | Malta | ★★ Very Good | Fri 11th Mar 2022 | |||
6a ~6a+ | ★★ Todl-Finni - with lilami | 14m, 5 | Kanzianiberg | ★ Good | Thu 16th Jun 2022 | |||
Feels harder due to being a bit polished.
|
||||||||
6a | ★★ Schmudutz 1 - with lilami | Kanzianiberg | ★★★ Classic | Sat 13th Aug 2022 | ||||
6a ~6a+ | ★★★ classicmania - with Edi, kangucrag, lilami | 19m | Vilanova de Prades | ★★★ Classic | Sat 29th Oct 2022 | |||
Graded 6a+ according to the guidebook. Awesome crack and lots of good holes. Very nice climb!
|
||||||||
6a | ★ Bobodo - with lilami | 25m, 10 | Kalymnos | ★ Good | Fri 7th Apr 2023 | |||
6a ~5c | ★★ Quando Tramonta il Sol - with lilami | 30m, 14 | Kalymnos | ★★★ Mega Classic | Tue 11th Apr 2023 | |||
Absolutely awesome route!
|
||||||||
6a Easy | ★ Chocolate Girl Lollipop - with lilami | 20m | Kalymnos | ★★ Very Good | Fri 14th Apr 2023 | |||
6a ~5c | ★ Hibiscus Market (Part 1) - with lilami | 25m | Kalymnos | ★ Good | Fri 14th Apr 2023 | |||
6a ~5c | ★★ Climbers' Nest - with lilami | 28m | Kalymnos | ★★ Very Good | Mon 17th Apr 2023 | |||
6a ~5c | ★ Tsopanakos - with lilami, Edi, Dennis S. | 18m | Kalymnos | Average | Fri 21st Apr 2023 | |||
6a ~5c | ★★★ Ale L`anarchico - with lilami | 20m, 9 | Valle del Sarca | ★★★ Classic | Fri 5th May 2023 | |||
Very nice crack/dihedral and a small bulge.
|
||||||||
6a | ★★★ Faini a finale - with lilami | 38m, 17 | Valle del Sarca | ★★ Very Good | Fri 5th May 2023 | |||
A nice and long route. Make sure to have enough quickdraws!
|
||||||||
6a |
★★ Adieu Zidane
- with
lilami
| 100m | Les Gorges du Verdon | ★★ Very Good | Mon 15th May 2023 | |||
Nice climbing in an awesome setting. The traverse pitch (pitch 4, graded 6a in our guidebook) is exposed and very nice.
|
||||||||
6a ~6a+ |
★ Le cimetiere des elephants
- with
lilami
| 38m, 18 | Orpierre | ★★ Very Good | Tue 16th May 2023 | |||
Climbed both pitches as one.
The second part felt hard and technical but was very nice!
|
||||||||
6a | ★★ La voie de son maître - with lilami | 25m, 10 | Orpierre | ★★★ Classic | Tue 16th May 2023 | |||
Awesome climbing.
|
||||||||
6a ~6a+ | ★ Eh, super jules, tu craques - with lilami | 29m, 11 | Orpierre | ★★ Very Good | Sat 20th May 2023 | |||
Nice, but fingery and sustained climbing. The holds are often not that obvious.
According to the guidebook it is 6a+ and it felt like a very hard/sandbagged 6a+. It felt much harder than the neighbouring “La voie de son Maître“ which is also graded 6a.
|
||||||||
6a | ★ Code confidentiel - with lilami | 21m, 6 | Orpierre | ★ Good | Mon 22nd May 2023 | |||
The climbing itself would be quite nice, but the last two bolts are needlessly runout.
|
||||||||
6a | ★ Samiby - with lilami | 20m | Buis-les-Baronnies | ★ Good | Wed 24th May 2023 | |||
Very good slab climbing, sadly not long enough.
|
||||||||
5c ~5c |
★★★ La grotte
- with
lilami
1
5b
lead by
lilami
An easy slab and then a fun squeeze through a hole in the rock to the belay. A bit tight with a backpack.
2
5c
lead by
Gabriel Emm
A very nice crack/dihedral. Best place for the belay is using the last bolt and the tree.
4
5c
lead by
Gabriel Emm
A beautiful and airy arête, following a few cracks in the otherwise blank slab. | 90m | Buis-les-Baronnies | ★★★ Mega Classic | Fri 26th May 2023 | |||
A superb route with great climbing! Every pitch is different, but they are all awesome.
Overall, easy for the grade (max. 5c I would say) and good quality rock. If this route is at your limit, bolts in pitches 2-4 might feel a bit spaced, otherwise bolting is plenty fine.
|
||||||||
6a ~5c | ★★ Zoé ma grenouille - with lilami | 15m, 9 | Céüse | ★★ Very Good | Thu 1st Jun 2023 | |||
Very nice rock. At first, climb through the blue/gray strip right off the dihedral, then switch to the left side of the dihedral. Very friendly bolting.
|
||||||||
6a | ★★ Katina - with lilami | 20m, 11 | Céüse | ★★★ Classic | Fri 2nd Jun 2023 | |||
Awesome climbing on big holes/holds. Already polished, but the jugs are big enough that it does not matter. Moves are powerful, but there is always a position to rest.
|
||||||||
6a | Kalotina | 15m | Kalymnos | ★ Good | Thu 18th Apr 2024 | |||
6a Easy | ★★ Argo Navis - with lilami, Edi | 25m | Kalymnos | ★★ Very Good | Tue 23rd Apr 2024 | |||
6+ | ★★★ Wirbelwind - with lilami | 13m, 6 | Thalhofergrat | ★★★ Mega Classic | Fri 22nd Mar 2019 | |||
6+ Easy | ★★★ Crazy Bums Love - with Edi, Dennis S. | 16m, 9 | Lindkogel | ★ Good | Sun 18th Sep 2022 | |||
6+ | ★★ Bum bastisch - with Edi, VMS | 13m, 6 | Lindkogel | ★ Good | Sun 19th Mar 2023 | |||
5c+ | ★ Foccolare - with Edi, lilami | 20m | Jungfernsprung | ★ Good | Thu 25th Jul 2019 | |||
5c+ | ★★ Ouzo - with lilami | 25m | Kalymnos | ★★★ Classic | Wed 5th Apr 2023 | |||
5c+ ~5c | ★★ M.A.O. - with lilami | 22m | Kalymnos | ★★ Very Good | Wed 5th Apr 2023 | |||
5c+ ~5b | ★★ Laertes - with lilami | 18m, 6 | Kalymnos | ★★ Very Good | Wed 12th Apr 2023 | |||
Very nice tufa finish.
|
||||||||
5c+ ~5a | ★★★ Phineas - with lilami | 22m | Kalymnos | ★★★ Classic | Mon 17th Apr 2023 | |||
Jugs, jugs, jugs, and even more jugs. Also, very tight bolting. Very nice and easy route.
|
||||||||
5c+ ~5c | ★★ La Sfesura - with lilami | 20m, 9 | Valle del Sarca | ★★ Very Good | Sat 6th May 2023 | |||
The route climbs along a very nice crack/dihedral. I would consider the climbing itself maybe even ⭐️⭐️⭐️ if the route wasn’t so polished (the climbing doesn’t get harder due to this, but it’s less fun).
|
||||||||
6a ~6a |
★★ Brazil
- with
lilami
| 160m, 15 | Orpierre | ★★★ Classic | Wed 17th May 2023 | |||
An absolutely awesome climb! Very friendly bolting and for the first six pitches very homogeneous climbing on huge jugs (Jugs, jugs everywhere!).
Pitches seven and eight (the last pitch is only < 10m long) are harder but also very nice and the hard parts can be done A0.
For me, pitch seven (balancy and tricky) felt harder than pitch eight (polished small overhang).
Overall ⭐️⭐️⭐️, fully recommend this route!
And as a bonus, the descent path is also very scenic.
|
||||||||
5+ 5c | ★★ Paramuero - with Edi, lilami | 11m, 4 | Cala Magraner | ★★ Very Good | Thu 20th Sep 2018 | |||
5c | Roccia - with Edi, lilami | 25m | Jungfernsprung | ★ Good | Thu 25th Jul 2019 | |||
5c | ★★ End it right, Dummy - with Edi, Steph W., lilami, VMS | 18m | Malta | ★ Good | Mon 7th Mar 2022 | |||
The crux is in on the headwall (but it’s awesome to climb), the rest is easier but also very nice climbing.
|
||||||||
5c | ★★ Gemmiti - with Edi, Steph W., lilami, VMS | 16m | Malta | Average | Mon 7th Mar 2022 | |||
A few big blocks on the lower half are loose and could hit the belayer, climb with care. Top half nice climbing.
|
||||||||
5c | ★ Aschenputtel - with lilami | Kanzianiberg | ★ Good | Mon 6th Jun 2022 | ||||
Nice mix between overhang, wall and slab. Route is polished, but it does not negatively affect the climb since the polished holds are all huge jugs.
|
||||||||
5c ~5b | ★★ Draga Mutzalina - with lilami | Kanzianiberg | ★★ Very Good | Sat 13th Aug 2022 | ||||
5c ~5b | ★ Il Gino - with lilami | 27m, 14 | Kalymnos | ★ Good | Wed 5th Apr 2023 | |||
5c ~5a | ★★ Epidixias - with lilami | 30m | Kalymnos | ★★★ Classic | Mon 10th Apr 2023 | |||
5c ~5b | ★ Nonno Ringo - with lilami | 18m, 11 | Kalymnos | Average | Fri 14th Apr 2023 | |||
5c | ★ Le chant des baleines - with lilami | 28m, 10 | Orpierre | ★ Good | Tue 16th May 2023 | |||
The lower part is quite polished, but still fun to climb. The upper part is more balancy. Nice climbing.
|
||||||||
5c ~5c+ | Le clou foireux - variante gauche - with lilami | 15m | Buis-les-Baronnies | ★ Good | Wed 24th May 2023 | |||
Very good slab climbing, sadly not long enough.
|
||||||||
5c | ★★ Paulo mon lapin - with lilami | 15m, 9 | Céüse | ★★ Very Good | Thu 1st Jun 2023 | |||
Homogeneous climbing on interesting rock with lots of structure und small holes. Very friendly bolting.
|
||||||||
5c Hard | ★ ciao prugnetta - with lilami, Edi, Steph W., VMS | 15m, 6 | Valle Orco | ★ Good | Tue 6th Jun 2023 | |||
Nice arête. Cost me a bit of mental effort to climb at the left side of the arête.
|
||||||||
5c | ★★ Port | 23m | Kalymnos | ★★ Very Good | Sun 14th Apr 2024 | |||
6 | ★★ Tigerauge - with lilami | 90m, 8 | Mixnitz | ★★ Very Good | Sun 27th Sep 2015 | |||
6 | ★★ Himmelsleiter - with Edi, Jokep, lilami | 22m, 11 | Thalhofergrat | ★★ Very Good | Sat 4th Jun 2016 |